Rally Dash

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Swingn’71 said:
10-4…..Good info…Thanks, wasn’t aware the connector receptacles were oval. Yes a home made connector is in my future. Thanks again Swingn’
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OK, another factor to consider is hole count. If I was going to make my own it would only have holes where male pins are on a particular board. OEM connector has all the holes to accommodate various boards with more or less wires and/or male pins.
 
One place I surely would opt for something other than factory is the 3 pins in a row connector on the other board of rally dash. Slickest md I have seen was in this forum. The guy soldered the 3 factory wires to their appropriate locations then went a good 6 or 8 inches away and spliced in the basic trailer harness connector male and female. No more loose/bent/broken pins there. He gained a white wire to use for chassis ground in the process too.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hopkins-Towing-Solutions-4-Flat-to-4-Flat-Connector-Extension-18-inch-48185/16889050?wl13=631&selectedSellerId=0&http://clickserve.dartsearch.net/link/click?lid=92700060762254883&ds_s_kwgid=58700006715445296&ds_s_inventory_feed_id=97700000003583668&ds_a_cid=654818135&ds_a_caid=13956209185&ds_a_agid=126452889113&ds_a_lid=pla-1392082700544&ds_a_cid=116919406&ds_a_caid=361575031&ds_a_agid=1200667322826314&ds_a_fiid=&ds_a_lid=pla-4578641339573147&&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=search&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=o&ds_e_product_group_id=4578641339573147&ds_e_product_id=16889050_0&ds_e_product_merchant_id=27449&ds_e_product_country=US&ds_e_product_language=EN&ds_e_product_channel=Local&ds_e_product_store_id=631&ds_url_v=2&ds_dest_url=?&adid=222222222320000000000_1200667322826314_lia&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=75041804331059&wl4=pla-4578641339573147&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&wl10=Walmart&wl11=Local&wl12=16889050_0&wl14=basic%20trailer%20harness%20connector&veh=sem&msclkid=b538ebfdba3a11ec06e28f3cad1c66c0&gclid=b538ebfdba3a11ec06e28f3cad1c66c0&gclsrc=3p.ds
I forget what color the factories 3rd wire is but, green is green, orange changes yellow, unknown changes to brown.
If you go this route, Solder and heat shrink all splices.
 
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RedFish said:
GREAT! There is one thing I wanted to mention even though you didn't ask. About those thin tin speedy nuts holding the gauges to the board. Although they do have a fairly large footprint to the copper pad beneath, the reason for their use is how a engineers training and mind works. A weak nut suggests a weak foundation of what its screwed onto. Those studs a swedged into a thin piece of fiber board that will break easily. Turning the stud would damage the nichrome wire welded to head end of them.
If the stud was rusty or damaged, a service tech could cut that pizzy nut off, thus saving the board and gauge. The downside of that nut.., it's the weakest link in the positive current path since it contacts only one thread of a stud or bolt. All of that is the cause for my internal toothed washers and true hex nuts but I had to CAREFULLY chase the studs threads first and be very careful in tightening.
I all most forgot. The connector that attaches to a oil sender looks a lot like a female spade terminal. It sides onto a small round button atop that sender. It typically doesn't have an insulator on it, so if it should fall or get knocked off and lay to chassis ground bad things could happen to all of your guages. That connector is available online somewhere, but I can never recall who/where to find it. Just another coin well spent in my opinion. Someone here knows but are they following this thread. Fingers crossed.
Happy moparing
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so still struggling with the gauges have all my lighst working but cant get fuel gauge oip and heat to work i have 12 v going into fuel gauge and shas 5 volts at others i put a test light on sender conectors and test light lights up very dull and flashes. Do u think this is the gauge grounds?
 
seitz said:
so still struggling with the gauges have all my lighst working but cant get fuel gauge oip and heat to work i have 12 v going into fuel gauge and shas 5 volts at others i put a test light on sender conectors and test light lights up very dull and flashes. Do u think this is the gauge grounds?
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I don't understand "oip" or "shas and heat" that you typed. As best I can tell the electrical side is working. The only gauge that is chassis grounded is the fuel gauge and that chassis ground is for the mechanical limiter. It is producing a pulse voltage but we don't know it is adequate voltage to operate the thermal gauges. Without a separate temperature sensing devise, we don't know you have hot water either.
A test for the novice with little or no test equipment... Use a piece of wire with alligator clips both ends to connect the purple temp sender wire directly to ground. Get in the seat and turn the ignition switch to on. The temp gauge needle should move quite rapidly to its max 'H' position. If needle moves very slowly and/or doesn't go all the way to 'H' as it should, either the gauge or the mechanical limiter in the fuel gauge is where the fault is.
I don't know if I mentioned this before but,,, your rally fuel gauge has a thin piece of metal on its backside to ground it to the cast metal inst' housing. A poor contact there can cause a poorly functioning limiter. In some models that piece of metal on the back of the 3 post fuel gauge is brass. In other models it is tin. In either case it needs to be a clean and snug connection.
And if "heat" referred to heated air out of the vents, the electric blower isn't related to the inst' panel. Nor is lack of hot water.
 
RedFish said:
I don't understand "oip" or "shas and heat" that you typed. As best I can tell the electrical side is working. The only gauge that is chassis grounded is the fuel gauge and that chassis ground is for the mechanical limiter. It is producing a pulse voltage but we don't know it is adequate voltage to operate the thermal gauges. Without a separate temperature sensing devise, we don't know you have hot water either.
A test for the novice with little or no test equipment... Use a piece of wire with alligator clips both ends to connect the purple temp sender wire directly to ground. Get in the seat and turn the ignition switch to on. The temp gauge needle should move quite rapidly to its max 'H' position. If needle moves very slowly and/or doesn't go all the way to 'H' as it should, either the gauge or the mechanical limiter in the fuel gauge is where the fault is.
I don't know if I mentioned this before but,,, your rally fuel gauge has a thin piece of metal on its backside to ground it to the cast metal inst' housing. A poor contact there can cause a poorly functioning limiter. In some models that piece of metal on the back of the 3 post fuel gauge is brass. In other models it is tin. In either case it needs to be a clean and snug connection.
And if "heat" referred to heated air out of the vents, the electric blower isn't related to the inst' panel. Nor is lack of hot water.
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sorry bad typing oip and ahas should have read oil pressure gauge and Heat gauge all has 5 volts running to them but with a test light on them it lights dim and it flashes i have tested both oil and heat gauge with some dble a batteries and they both work its the gas gauge i am not sure how to test i guess i may have to pull cluster once more and check that gas gauge has a good ground. I would assume that if i have voltage on the low volt terminal it shoudl be a good gas gauge?
 
update so i pulled cluster again change all the gauge nuts as u stated previous and tested for continuity at each conection as i pit back together and now all the gauges are powered up but they all go to far right so from empty gas gauge goes to full oil goes to high and temp goes to hot. i tested the voltage at each gauge and it is at 11 + volts. should it not be 5 volts? i am now wondering if the VR in fuel gauge is bad now? i seen on here where they eliminated the factory one and install a external solid state one. I have everything here to do it kinda wish i had of while it was out but just was abit hesitant. i also have installed the external VR and its still does the same its one i had here so its not new. I did test and it has continuity and the terminal that should be 5 volts is 11 volts so now im wondering if the VR i had is bad. I guess i order a new one and try but i have a feeling its no going to be the issue. after more research iam see that the voltage is correct at the 11 volts. it pulsates same as a test light on these pulsate bright light which iam told bring the voltage to around 5 volts. So now im stumpped
 
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