Re using cast iron rings?

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Are you going to remove the rings to clean out the ring grooves, them put them back on and use them?

I’m all for low buck but this is nuts.
 
I may be out in left field but most rings I've used in the past when new have a semi-rough surface finish that allegedly is to promote break-in. When that surface is polished smooth through use, I have a hard time believing that they will break in a second time to the cylinder walls.
 
Here's a question I hope some one can answer.........If a ring is seated to a cylinder bore, how can it's removal from that cylinder and then it's re-installation to that bore ruin it's seal??

I realize I'm the heretic in this discussion; some one has to do it.
 
JBurch said:
I would not hone....no need to, ring is already seated
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I would not re hone if the original cross hatch in the bore was still present.
But that is not likely to be the case.
If the cross hatch is gone and the bore is smooth, the ring is not 'seated' nor is it sealing well.
The cross hatch is present along with the plateau hone to retain oil on the bore side walls to lubricate the piston rings.
 
replicaracer43 said:
Also, send me a PM, I have a set of new old stock std 318 rings I'll give you for free.
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Why would we enable a person 'who we KNOW can buy a set of rings herself'.. by giving her some.
Got me thinking... uh oh..
I wonder if any of these cars are sold .
If they are... how many people now need to wonder what kind of hokie pokie bs has been done.
 
I wouldn’t just run new rings, but I’d go as far as to splurge on a set of phosphate coated (proffered) or hard chromed rings. But the last time I checked, the 3.91 inch bore narrows that selection down to a hard chrome top and phosphate coated second ring. And a torque plate home back to round with the proper finish, since it’s all apart anyway.
 
Based on the replies, I'm going to share where I got this idea. I might have got the wrong impression or maybe that is what he meant.

I was personally taught in auto school to replace rings, nobody never even suggested such a thing except this video. my engine hardly has any ridge and ran before taken apart but is an original 74 engine that was taken apart for other issues and is intended to be overhauled stock.

18:00, 19:00

 
Princess Valiant said:
Based on the replies, I'm going to share where I got this idea. I might have got the wrong impression or maybe that is what he meant.

I was personally taught in auto school to replace rings, nobody never even suggested such a thing except this video. my engine hardly has any ridge and ran before taken apart but is an original 74 engine that was taken apart for other issues and is intended to be overhauled stock.

18:00, 19:00

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Didn't one of his builds blow up on the dyno test before??? :rolleyes:
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
J par probably has some used underoos he'd lend...little bit of room left for a few more skid marks, but you'd have to check with him 1st.
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Skid Marks.jpg
 
Princess Valiant said:
Based on the replies, I'm going to share where I got this idea. I might have got the wrong impression or maybe that is what he meant.

I was personally taught in auto school to replace rings, nobody never even suggested such a thing except this video. my engine hardly has any ridge and ran before taken apart but is an original 74 engine that was taken apart for other issues and is intended to be overhauled stock.

18:00, 19:00

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What shocker:rolleyes:
I bet he told ya to use butt grease to assemble it with and some ashes down the carb for good luck. Ring like any other metal alloy have a fatigue life imo getting them hot like in an operating engine..then bending them out to remove and worse.. leaving them on then honing it .005-.001 larger...they've lost their spring so to speak...if there was out of round..the ring is out of round after it's been broke in..
Its a great "watch this"... or.. "I cant believe it worked, or runs"... but that's shoe laces for a belt, bubble gum for glue. Its lame.
 
I don't know Tony but have always thought he was an OK fella, but damn. Why even rebuild an engine if you're going to reuse parts like rings!
 
I've slapped them together with the same rings and even the same head gasket when I cracked a 351c head and it ran like a scalded dog until I sold it 4 years layer with no smoke. A piston ring will polish the bore after a while creating a very good seal. If you put a new ring in, you will HAVE to apply another cross hatch pattern to hold the oil to break in those new rings or else there will not be enough bite to run those rings in properly. If the rings are to be reused, just make sure the ring lands are clean and the rings float freely in them. I did a small mazda motor that had very smooth bores and the crank would turn as freely as a bike tire when the head was off. I pulled the pistons and hatched the cylinders again ( I installed 1 new piston/ring pack years ago with no cylinder prep and I dont think it ever seated so I was getting a pulsing blowby) but after all were criss hatched again, there was a noticeable difference in the drag of those rings. My blowby is much less pronounced now with hatched cylinders and will probably get better with a few hundred miles on them. In a perfect world with a perfect car budget, everything would get replaced right? Sometimes things are imperfect and sometimes that is not an issue.
 
With the availability of "budget" tools available easily from outfits such as amazon, a decent dial bore gauge should be in every hobbyist engine builders tool box. The FIRST thing you do is measure for taper, AND out of round. That will tell you if your re-ring project can be successful. You do NOT check rings with a flashlight, and you damn sure dont check bores with a carpenter's level like has been suggested by your youtube hack. There is more knowledge and skill on this site ready to offer free advice and help than anywhere else.
 
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