Rear brakes are not bleeding.

[92b]

did it anyways.

Capped rear port on MC (sends fluid to front brakes) and pressed pedal with main line detached from each rear caliper; first passenger side then second drivers side. Fluid comes out of the line with ease.

So… culprit is one of the rear calipers I would assume?

First picture is the passenger side hard line broken from the soft line and the second picture is the drivers side hard line disconnected from the soft line.

View attachment 1716443130

View attachment 1716443131

Start at the master cylinder. Cap both front and rear at the same time. Bleed by cracking each plug one at a time. Do you have a good pedal? Meaning it doesn't go to the floor like it did at the beginning of this thread. And it doesn't go hard after 3 pumps like it has been doing most recently. It should be a slightly firmer than normal feeling pedal because your not squeezing calipers. I hope that makes sense.

 

[92b]

did it anyways.

Capped rear port on MC (sends fluid to front brakes) and pressed pedal with main line detached from each rear caliper; first passenger side then second drivers side. Fluid comes out of the line with ease.

So… culprit is one of the rear calipers I would assume?

First picture is the passenger side hard line broken from the soft line and the second picture is the drivers side hard line disconnected from the soft line.

View attachment 1716443130

View attachment 1716443131

Cap both rear hard lines and bleed. How does the pedal feel?

 

[DentalDart]

Start at the master cylinder. Cap both front and rear at the same time. Bleed by cracking each plug one at a time. Do you have a good pedal? Meaning it doesn't go to the floor like it did at the beginning of this thread. And it doesn't go hard after 3 pumps like it has been doing most recently. It should be a slightly firmer than normal feeling pedal because your not squeezing calipers. I hope that makes sense.

Anytime I cap everything and let one bleeder screw open the pedal was fine, and my pedal always returned to normal position when doing this.

I rebled the MC and it felt completely normal.

I was going to do more “trouble shooting” but I didn’t want to keep messing with what has caused me problems for 1.5 months.

 

[DentalDart]

Scrapped the used rear brake kit and threw on the brand new kit from DrDiff. Bleeder screws in the correct position, lines in the correct spots everything new! The hard lines are new inline tube line to the rear and self made lines over the rear axle.

The brand new line that goes from the distribution block to the rear line was pretty short. I had to take all the bends out of it but what ever it’s on and it’s hooked up, it will never move.

The other hard lines are hooked up too. The new brake caliper mounts, calipers and soft lines went on super quick in the rear. The most time was spent bending new lines to go over the rear axle as the breather is about 4 inches offset between the copper darts 8.75 and the purple darts 8.75. They are done though and yes, the flares are perfect, even for the not so smartest car technician.

I have to hook up the ebrake still but no more for today. Time to eat then go get ice cream.

I’m thinking I may bleed the calipers with the bleeder syringe before hooking the hard lines up to the caliper lines, this may save me some pedal pumping.

 

[mopar head]

Wish you success Doc.

 

[DentalDart]

Wish you success Doc.

Can I have some of that popcorn too? This car really does have me Dartin for divorce

 

[340sFastback]

I have the same Dr Diff 10.7 inch rear disc on mine. Here are some tips:

1) the emergency brake must be activated / released 25-30 times or so to ratchet the rear caliper pistons out PRIOR to any hydraulic pressure being applied. If hydraulic pressure has been applied first then rent a caliper tool which rotates and pushes caliper pistons to full seated position then follow emergency brake activate / release process PRIOR to bleeding. Or you can be like me and bleed first and be dumb founded lost not a clue as to why brake pedal is mushy excessive travel hard to bleed ect ect ect.

2) make sure there is some slack in emergency brake cable. This isn't like rear drums where some drag is ok. Pay attention to pass side cable routing to minimize sharp bends. Rear tires should spin without a lot of muscle when car off the ground emergency brake off.

3) rear pads should move freely within caliper mount brackets. You should be able to move brake pads in caliper mount bracket with your hand with no resistance. On one side my pads were excessively tight causing drag, glazed rotor and pads, brakes were squealing chirping. I had to take apart, use mini belt file to clearance caliper mount bracket where pads sit, clearance one ear on one pad, assemble with a film of Disc Brake Grease where pads slide. When done, wheels off ground, I can spin my rear wheels easily by hand.

4) I also removed caliper pins and boots and added a liberal amount of Disc Brake Grease. There was some grease on the pins but not much all. Best to grease those pins up good.

The above were the struggles I had. I will say once all shaken out I am very happy with my Dr Diff 11 3/4 front disc and 10.7 rear disc. And my emergency brake holds car on hills way better then the rear drums ever did too.

 

[340sFastback]

Oh, and one of my flex lines, banjo end, on rear disc caliper prevented emergency brake cable from fully releasing. Had to loosen, rotate, and retighten to get clearance so cable end would not hit flex hose. So watch out for that too.

 

[92b]

Anytime I cap everything and let one bleeder screw open the pedal was fine, and my pedal always returned to normal position when doing this.

I'm not sure what you mean. If everything is capped off the bleeder screws are no longer an active part of the braking system. Can you explain a little more please?

 

[92b]

I rebled the MC and it felt completely normal.

Was this with the mastercylinder capped off at the master cylinder and both ports at the same time?

 

[92b]

I was going to do more “trouble shooting” but I didn’t want to keep messing with what has caused me problems for 1.5 months.

Sometimes you can just throw some parts at it and if your lucky it will fix it right up. I hope that works for you and ends your struggle.

 

[DentalDart]

I have the same Dr Diff 10.7 inch rear disc on mine. Here are some tips:

1) the emergency brake must be activated / released 25-30 times or so to ratchet the rear caliper pistons out PRIOR to any hydraulic pressure being applied. If hydraulic pressure has been applied first then rent a caliper tool which rotates and pushes caliper pistons to full seated position then follow emergency brake activate / release process PRIOR to bleeding. Or you can be like me and bleed first and be dumb founded lost not a clue as to why brake pedal is mushy excessive travel hard to bleed ect ect ect.

2) make sure there is some slack in emergency brake cable. This isn't like rear drums where some drag is ok. Pay attention to pass side cable routing to minimize sharp bends. Rear tires should spin without a lot of muscle when car off the ground emergency brake off.

3) rear pads should move freely within caliper mount brackets. You should be able to move brake pads in caliper mount bracket with your hand with no resistance. On one side my pads were excessively tight causing drag, glazed rotor and pads, brakes were squealing chirping. I had to take apart, use mini belt file to clearance caliper mount bracket where pads sit, clearance one ear on one pad, assemble with a film of Disc Brake Grease where pads slide. When done, wheels off ground, I can spin my rear wheels easily by hand.

4) I also removed caliper pins and boots and added a liberal amount of Disc Brake Grease. There was some grease on the pins but not much all. Best to grease those pins up good.

The above were the struggles I had. I will say once all shaken out I am very happy with my Dr Diff 11 3/4 front disc and 10.7 rear disc. And my emergency brake holds car on hills way better then the rear drums ever did too.

I put on the new DrDiff E-brake cables, they are nice .

Did the activation of the cable about 30-35 times. Drivers side pads drag on the rotor, I can spin it freely but I can’t move the rear pads with my fingers at all. I’ll check tomorrow to make sure it’s not hung up on the SS lines behind it.

I am not a big fan of the little cable mounting bracket not being even, but maybe they should be like that. I may give it a little more slack, but I don’t want it to loose.

 

[340sFastback]

On my driver side I had a lot of drag and when I pulled caliper off the pads were wedged so tight in caliper bracket had to pry them out. Had to remove caliper bracket and grind down to add clearance so pads would not bind. On passengers side I could pull pads out by hand. So the clearances between pads and caliper brackets need to be checked and if too tight grind some off.

Not sure what you mean about some brake cable bracket not being even?

 

[Dartsun]

On my driver side I had a lot of drag and when I pulled caliper off the pads were wedged so tight in caliper bracket had to pry them out. Had to remove caliper bracket and grind down to add clearance so pads would not bind. On passengers side I could pull pads out by hand. So the clearances between pads and caliper brackets need to be checked and if too tight grind some off.

Not sure what you mean about some brake cable bracket not being even?

What brakes are you running on the front? I have the drivers side drag on my Mopar, mine has a Jegs power disc break kit uses GM calipers.

 

[340sFastback]

I run the Dr Diff 11 3/4 Stage 2 kit up front on mine and there is drag but I can turn tire with one hand easily little effort so more like a normal drag....

 

[DentalDart]

On my driver side I had a lot of drag and when I pulled caliper off the pads were wedged so tight in caliper bracket had to pry them out. Had to remove caliper bracket and grind down to add clearance so pads would not bind. On passengers side I could pull pads out by hand. So the clearances between pads and caliper brackets need to be checked and if too tight grind some off.

Not sure what you mean about some brake cable bracket not being even?

I don’t have a belt sander but I have other sander’s, so I’ll give it a bit of clearance.

As the the bracket, the bracket where the E-brake cables on the rear and connect with the cable from the handle. It’s not straight.

 

[nutz]

On my driver side I had a lot of drag and when I pulled caliper off the pads were wedged so tight in caliper bracket had to pry them out. Had to remove caliper bracket and grind down to add clearance so pads would not bind. On passengers side I could pull pads out by hand. So the clearances between pads and caliper brackets need to be checked and if too tight grind some off.

Not sure what you mean about some brake cable bracket not being even?

One cable is pulling more then other

 

[92b]

How does the brake pedal feel now that you have replaced the rear calipers?

 

[340sFastback]

I don’t have a belt sander but I have other sander’s, so I’ll give it a bit of clearance.

As the the bracket, the bracket where the E-brake cables on the rear and connect with the cable from the handle. It’s not straight.

View attachment 1716444597

Make sure the lever on the calipers is all the way in the returned position. I also had to move my pass side cable around to minimize the sharpness of the bends.

 

[DentalDart]

How does the brake pedal feel now that you have replaced the rear calipers?

I haven’t pressed the brake pedal, since I haven’t tried to bleed the brakes yet. I usually don’t work on cars Mon-Thursday, I work to much during the week. This was my schedule today, super busy.

 

[340sFastback]

I don’t have a belt sander but I have other sander’s, so I’ll give it a bit of clearance.

This is the one I have and it has been used, abused, beat all to hell, dropped, run for hours at a time, dropped on the garage floor etc and still works like new:

https://www.harborfreight.com/53-amp-12-in-x-18-in-bandfile-belt-sander-58155.html

I use 3M Cubitron II 33445 60+ Grit File Belt, 1/2in x 18in, Box of 10 which are very durable.

You will never use a hand file ever again. And you can get into a lot of tight spaces and smooth grind metal extremely quickly and effortlessly and do a far better job then many other tools. I regret I didn't buy one sooner.....

​

 

[JDMopar]

This is the one I have and it has been used, abused, beat all to hell, dropped, run for hours at a time, dropped on the garage floor etc and still works like new:

https://www.harborfreight.com/53-amp-12-in-x-18-in-bandfile-belt-sander-58155.html

I use 3M Cubitron II 33445 60+ Grit File Belt, 1/2in x 18in, Box of 10 which are very durable.

You will never use a hand file ever again. And you can get into a lot of tight spaces and smooth grind metal extremely quickly and effortlessly and do a far better job then many other tools. I regret I didn't buy one sooner.....

​

Have you used it to grind out spot welds on body panels? I've been kind of skeptical of buying one for that purpose because it seems like the edges of the belt would wear out quickly. I can see where it would be very useful for plenty of other things though.

 

[340sFastback]

Have you used it to grind out spot welds on body panels? I've been kind of skeptical of buying one for that purpose because it seems like the edges of the belt would wear out quickly. I can see where it would be very useful for plenty of other things though.

That is what I bought it for. The 3M belts can grind down a lot of welds before they wear out.

 

[DentalDart]

It’s either a bad MC, bad distribution block, or the rod being the incorrect length (even though I put the measurements at full extended and fully pressed into the MC). Or I guess it could be a front caliper, the front calipers are the only ones that do not quit moving.

My system has no leaks, my pressure bleeder leaks 0 pressure after being at the same pressure for 20 minutes.

The picture of the foot is my son, that’s as far as he can push the pedal in when the pedal gets “bricked or stuck.”

When it is stuck I can still spin the front rotors. I’d show the video but I can’t.

Motive power bleeder holding pressure.

Last new MC I have at my house with the stock rod and my last little rubber grommet. I’ll buy a couple more from DrDiff.

One more day and then I’m towing it somewhere and or paying someone to come to me.

 

[tjpatte]

Bypass the distribution block, get a “T” and some adapters.