Rear Main Seal

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The "Edge"rear main seal article from May 1990
was "Chrysler Slant-Six and Big Block Rear Seal Leaks" by Doug Anderson
lots of good tips
 
I have hard copies in a binder
I'll try and summarize tonight
perhaps get a hold of Enginetech and see if they will post it or all of their back issues
 
Any suggestions guys?
I see Cometic has one for a Magnum, are LA and magnum seals the same?[/QUOTE]

Are they they same ? anyone ?
 
I just bought a Felpro rear main from Napa and it appears to be Viton (its orange)...The inward edge is far more pronounced than the one I installed which leaked.
 
mbaird said:
I just bought a Felpro rear main from Napa and it appears to be Viton (its orange)...The inward edge is far more pronounced than the one I installed which leaked.
Click to expand...

Can you post a pic and part number?
There is a NAPA on my way home from work.
 
BTW, this was for a 5.9 magnum block and crank.
which why I asked about LA and Magnums being different.
 
Thank mbaird I ordered one for a 1974 Cuda 360
Felpro Pn bs40651 Viton material.
Picking it up after work and will post pics.
 
I don't know...
Looks more brown than red.
I haven't dealt with rear main seals before, @yellow rose , does this look right to you?

20180905_165123_Burst01.jpg


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20180905_170135.jpg
 
superchargeddrt said:
Okay,
So I pulled the engine back out of the Dart after checking with dye to determine what was leaking. It looked like the oil was leaking from the oil pan gasket in the rear but after changing the gasket and reinstalling the engine I still have a leak! I can't get the oil pan off while it's in the car because the oil pan pickup is not allowing the pan to move forward. My question is is it feasible to loosen the K member while supporting the engine from the top with a hoist to gain the extra space I need? The oil pan is one of the 8 quart Milodons that bell out on the bottom. If any of you have a trick for removing the pan while in the car I'm all ears. This is the most frustrating experience of my life and I'm ready to drop the tools and wait until next year. Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
Arghhh! I have a "back of the engine leak" that I haven't checked out on a hoist. Jack stands and bi-focals don't tell me much. Following your thread.
 
I feel your pain TMM. If you have a 340 or 318 you can get one of the Superformance seals but if you have a windage tray yoully have to pull the engine. It will all work out in the end.
 
I know Ironmike has a couple of them for his future builds (his is a 360 based engine) maybe he could post a picture.
 
mine appears to be made of Viton. Looks just like the old Mopar Viton valve seal material.
 
KnuckleDuster said:
@yellow rose ?
Click to expand...


That's a viton seal. Make DAMN sure when the seal is installed you don't have any more than .010 seal above the block or cap. And that's the MAX. If you have .010 per side, you are putting .020 crush on each end of the seal. You will actual crush the seal out of round.

That's why some guys clock the seal away from the parting line. I don't do that. I fit the seal to the cap and the block seperately. You really only need .005 per side but you may need to practice on a used seal first so you can learn to trim the seal.

Once the block has been lined honed, it adds crush to the seal. And the manufacturers always mentally masturbate over things like crush and don't tell the installer it needs to be checked and corrected.

98% of all rear seal leaks are too much crush.
 
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