Repairing Temp. and Fuel gage Indication on a 1969 Dart Swinger 340

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Cubzy

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Hi All,

Today while out for a nice drive I lost indication on both the Engine temp indicator and Fuel gage at the same time. What do both of these instruments have in common. Perhaps a power supply or a ground connection? Connections on intake and gas tank are all good. Everything worked fine up to this point. What should or I check? I'm thinking its a corroded connection?

Thanks in advance.
 
you'd be better of waiting for someone more knowledgable to chime in
i think it is the regulator, but im not sure where it is (behind the gauge cluster, somewhere, i think)
or how to test it

but i think if you search for voltage regulators on here, you might find it
 
Mopar Tim said:
IVR. Instrument voltage regulator. A plug in module on the inst. cluster. It is silver
1969 dodge dart instrument voltage regulator - Google Search:
Click to expand...

Das de Jaun.:D
I think it was around 66-67 they had the one inside the gauge instead.

7.jpg
 
Apparently this is the 69 style, but the same thing as far as the regulator goes.

5AF03932-7ABB-4285-B50A-E656A5CAE5AE_zps9kqzshq6.jpg
 
It does just pull out and push in, you might be able to access it from under the dash....No way I could twist like that anymore...
 
It certainly could be the IVR and is fairly likely but IT ALSO can be bad connections there were it plugs in. If that is the case you need to solder across the interface between the contacts and the PC board. I would NOT waste time with an OEM IVR, get yourself a solid state replacement
 
Cubzy said:
Hi All,

Today while out for a nice drive I lost indication on both the Engine temp indicator and Fuel gage at the same time. What do both of these instruments have in common. Perhaps a power supply or a ground connection? Connections on intake and gas tank are all good. Everything worked fine up to this point. What should or I check? I'm thinking its a corroded connection?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Even if it is a bad connection, upgrading to the solid state device is simple and safer. I am told. dont quote me.... that when the mechanical VR fails, it fails in a way as to deliver 12 volts constant. This will kill your gauges as they require 5 volts.

I took a simple trip to the local electrical supply house and bought all the necessary components for less than 20 bucks ( I have enough supplies to make 5 VRS)

It was a fun project and it works like a charm.

Let me know if you get hung up...... I could probably pop a set of ingredients in the mail for you.

Follow the link that moparmandan provided and check it out!

Rusty..
 
I’ve removed the IVR. Is there any way to bench test it? I’m getting continuity between all three pegs. There was a wire also stabbed into one of the holes with the tab. I think it was the ignition slot. Is this the 12v supply in? I tested wire with ignition on and didn’t get any voltage? Maybe wire feeding cluster has no power? Can someone tell me which each tab is? Introl tab/ignition tab and large tab on side? Thanks again.
038AAFDA-CAEE-4CAC-AD9D-7BD76DA8D315.jpeg
 
Cubzy said:
I’ve removed the IVR. Is there any way to bench test it? I’m getting continuity between all three pegs. There was a wire also stabbed into one of the holes with the tab. I think it was the ignition slot. Is this the 12v supply in? I tested wire with ignition on and didn’t get any voltage? Maybe wire feeding cluster has no power? Can someone tell me which each tab is? Introl tab/ignition tab and large tab on side? Thanks again.View attachment 1715171785
Click to expand...

I cant recall, for 100% for sure, but I believe the wire you speak of was a ground wire.

I think the 3 prongs represent

12 volts in
5 volts out
Ground


Seems to me if you get continuity between all 3 prongs you have a switch that has failed in the closed position and will deliver 12 volts to the gauges.

Someone smarter than me will tell you if I am stupid.
 
rustyswinger said:
I cant recall, for 100% for sure, but I believe the wire you speak of was a ground wire.

I think the 3 prongs represent

12 volts in
5 volts out
Ground


Seems to me if you get continuity between all 3 prongs you have a switch that has failed in the closed position and will deliver 12 volts to the gauges.

Someone smarter than me will tell you if I am stupid.
Click to expand...

That’s what it looks like. Think I may have to test gages now if they seen 12v.
 
rustyswinger said:
Even if it is a bad connection, upgrading to the solid state device is simple and safer. I am told. dont quote me.... that when the mechanical VR fails, it fails in a way as to deliver 12 volts constant. This will kill your gauges as they require 5 volts.

I took a simple trip to the local electrical supply house and bought all the necessary components for less than 20 bucks ( I have enough supplies to make 5 VRS)

It was a fun project and it works like a charm.

Let me know if you get hung up...... I could probably pop a set of ingredients in the mail for you.

Follow the link that moparmandan provided and check it out!

Rusty..
Click to expand...
I am a dummy, the wire is leading to the condenser. Removes voltage spikes and quiets radio noise...... I cant recall, but I think it goes to the 5v output leg. Also. there was a paper insulator in there.... if you didnt pull the gauge cluster, it could be tough to line everything back up.

I have about 3 of the old style VR I can bench test them later and post my readings if you like
 
rustyswinger said:
I am a dummy, the wire is leading to the condenser. Removes voltage spikes and quiets radio noise...... I cant recall, but I think it goes to the 5v output leg. Also. there was a paper insulator in there.... if you didnt pull the gauge cluster, it could be tough to line everything back up.

I have about 3 of the old style VR I can bench test them later and post my readings if you like
Click to expand...

Yes please. Let me know what each terminal is. With key on the middle ignition terminal has 12v on the back of the cluster. Vertical slot nearest middle of the car was a ground. Assuming vertical slot on drivers side is the 5v tab?
 
Cubzy said:
Yes please. Let me know what each terminal is. With key on the middle ignition terminal has 12v on the back of the cluster. Vertical slot nearest middle of the car was a ground. Assuming vertical slot on drivers side is the 5v tab?
Click to expand...
That is correct, This picture posted earlier by Trail Beast tells the tale.. Note the gauges feed on the left of photo. Condenser slots in the 12V IGN spade.

Ground is obvious as it forms part of the silver casing.

7-jpg.jpg
 
Cubzy said:
I’ve removed the IVR. Is there any way to bench test it? I’m getting continuity between all three pegs. There was a wire also stabbed into one of the holes with the tab. I think it was the ignition slot. Is this the 12v supply in? I tested wire with ignition on and didn’t get any voltage? Maybe wire feeding cluster has no power? Can someone tell me which each tab is? Introl tab/ignition tab and large tab on side? Thanks again.View attachment 1715171785
Click to expand...

LOOK man PLEASE don't screw with that thing. Do yourself a giant favor and buy (or build) a solid state one............

The thing is 50 years old
The thing works like a turn signal flasher.......it constantly heats up, opens, cools down, re-connects......re heats up, opens, re-cools down, re-re-connec.........................get it? It's been doing this for 50 years

Basically you have THREE connections........switched 12V power in (with the condenser), flashing "regulated" power to the gauges, and a ground connection.

It is VERY likely "out of calibration" after all these years.

You can check the accuracy of the gauges individually by substituting a known resistance and comparing the gauge reading, this is "one version" of the old factory / dealer gauge tester

c-3826-jpg-jpg.jpg
 
Cubzy said:
Can this be changed out from underneath dash without removing the cluster. Is there any wires attached. It appears like it has a stab in tab. Does it pull out or have a fastener? Thanks.
Click to expand...

You can get to it from under the dash without removing the cluster, but it is not easy. I just swapped a failed one out without taking the dash apart. I unplugged all the wiring connectors in the way and pulled them to the side. I used a headlamp so I could see up in the back of the dash. The hardest part to get around is the steering column. Be careful both when pulling it out and plugging the new one back in. Also, I agree completely with the recommendation to install a solid state IVR.
 
1969VADart said:
You can get to it from under the dash without removing the cluster, but it is not easy. I just swapped a failed one out without taking the dash apart. I unplugged all the wiring connectors in the way and pulled them to the side. I used a headlamp so I could see up in the back of the dash. The hardest part to get around is the steering column. Be careful both when pulling it out and plugging the new one back in. Also, I agree completely with the recommendation to install a solid state IVR.
Click to expand...

I’m planning to install a new one. Hoping the gages are okay. Possible they may have seen full voltage when Ivr fails. When your failed did it effect the gages? I agree definely tight. Had some skinned wrists after removing it.
 
Cubzy said:
I’m planning to install a new one. Hoping the gages are okay. Possible they may have seen full voltage when Ivr fails. When your failed did it effect the gages? I agree definely tight. Had some skinned wrists after removing it.
Click to expand...

When the IVR failed in my car it burned up both gauges. I originally pulled the cluster out to replace all that and then ended up with a faulty "new" IVR, but I had already buttoned the dash back up. So I squeezed my hand under from the bottom. The headlamp was a big help.
 
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