Requesting guidance on selling a fresh 400B short block+

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67dartGTconvertible

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Location
Wall Township, NJ
I have been working towards a stock stroke 400B roller cam engine I was going to pair with a 4-speed. It is .40 over with KB pistons and a 383 steel crank. The connecting rods are new 440source OEM style. The shop assembled the short block, Bullet roller cam, double roller (German made) timing chain and rear main seal etc. The engine was not decked and the pistons are the standard depth "in the hole". I have since added new damper, windage tray, new repo 44source oil pan, pick up tube, high volume oil pump and new timing chain cover. I know what I spent on all this but that does not matter much when looking to sell. What matters is the perceived value. This is all sitting in Neptune NJ. Please let me know thoughts on a fair price. Thanks.

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i agree with john. i think you'll find buyers in the 2000~2500 range (i know if you were closer, i'd be one)

it's kind of a hard sell. it's not zero deck, it's basically a stock bottom end, the cam is a little too rowdy for most of the general public. but it's got a bunch of good pieces and the machine work is done and it's all together.

i'd probably list it at 3 and take anything over 2

ETA: price would reflect a true overbore and/or fresh machine work, which keen eyes picked up that this is not. not to say that there isn't good parts here, but the ask would be a lot different. or at least framed differently.
 
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The deck heights on these old motors were horrible. That'd be on my list to correct. So to "me" it's not worth as much as if the deck had been corrected and zeroed.
 
Listing clearances and ring gaps, and maybe a build sheet with a shop name or number for reference will help tremendously.
 
The ring gaps are really important with those pistons. That's a big unknown right now.
 
On the bright side, it appears as though the shop may have degreed the cam. But that's easy enough for a buyer to verify. I could see some people being leery of some of the hardware store bolts/washers.
 
First, thanks for the feedback. The builder retired several months ago but he built engines, mostly big 3 V8s (but everything including industrial diesels) including many mopars and many for local Wall Stadium Speedway competitors. I am not sure how he could have done improper ring gapping. Getting that stuff exactly right is why I had a professional install the short block vs doing it myself which I initially wanted to do.
 
First, thanks for the feedback. The builder retired several months ago but he built engines, mostly big 3 V8s (but everything including industrial diesels) including many mopars and many for local Wall Stadium Speedway competitors. I am not sure how he could have done improper ring gapping. Getting that stuff exactly right is why I had a professional install the short block vs doing it myself which I initially wanted to do.
You may understand and trust that opinion but you have to understand it from a buyers perspective. As a buyer without hard facts, all of that is hearsay and unverifiable without disassembling the engine. Which puts the price more towards core pricing than race engine short block pricing.
 
I know what I spent on all this
That does matter actually, if you can provide a receipt to the buyer showing what you payed for the work, and comparing it to the asking price, it helps that person understand and appreciate the “deal” you’re offering them. “Look I payed $2000 for all of this and you should feel all warm and fuzzy inside for getting it for $1999” kind of thing.
 
Looking at the pictures, it doesn't even look like fresh machine work. It looks like a dingle berry hone job, and the deck surface is absolutely terrible. The mismatched hardware store bolts dont inspire confidence either.
 
I never got a receipt at the end. He was closing his shop and selling off his equipment. He was done doing any work when I picked up the block and half the shop was empty of tooling. He just told me to bring $___ in cash and helped me load it into my truck. I do have the whole string of texts I could take snapshots of where things like him letting me know the steel crank is good and "polished to 20-20" and how he made me buy the flywheel (was going 4-speed) so it could get balanced with the rotating assembly.
 
Looking at the pictures, it doesn't even look like fresh machine work. It looks like a dingle berry hone job, and the deck surface is absolutely terrible. The mismatched hardware store bolts dont inspire confidence either.
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And those oil pump bolts are a hack. That whole thing is a $500 core as far as I see. Everything needs to be gone through and corrected. There's a reason why the builder is selling off his equipment and closing up shop.
 
The hardware store bolts are all grade 8. I could not find the right length bolts for the bigger oil pump so I ordered those and some other bolts from McMasterCarr. I am sure anyone buying this could change a handful or bolts out if concerned All of the grade 8 bolts used are shown in the pictures. Its not like they were used for the main caps.
 
And they guy retired after like 40 years. He started building engines because he raced at the local Wall Stadium in the 70's and built his own engines. The picking it up while he was shutting down was due to a delay getting the pistons, pushing the final assembly out. The 40 over pistons were not in stock and took a few months to get. He wasn't shutting down to skip town. I am not looking to sell this because I think the work done is questionable. I am looking to sell it because my goal with this would mean TF heads, $800 lifters, $700 rockers, TTI headers and then another 3k for all the 4-speed accessories. I am going a different route because I did not know just how expensive going big block would be. I believe I understand what I should list it for and what information I should include in the listing. Thanks
 
After seeing those cylinder bores up close...
Cancel my $2,000 estimate.

I would say significantly less than that now.

Deck looks bad as well upon examination.

I would not run this engine in it's current condition.

$1,000 piece with main value is Rods/Pistons/Cam.


Just my .02 = For Free
 
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First, thanks for the feedback. The builder retired several months ago but he built engines, mostly big 3 V8s (but everything including industrial diesels) including many mopars and many for local Wall Stadium Speedway competitors. I am not sure how he could have done improper ring gapping. Getting that stuff exactly right is why I had a professional install the short block vs doing it myself which I initially wanted to do.
It's really easy to do if if you're not familiar with the special requirements for hypereutectic pistons...and they ARE special. Lots of experienced machinists have made the mistake of using stock ring gaps and that's a huge mistake with that style of piston. That's why it's important for you to have that information, if possible. Anyone with any know how regarding those pistons will tear that back apart to inspect and possibly correct that.
 
I bought the block from mopar specialist engine builder in Northeast PA who was shutting down his shop due to a back injury (Dennis in Pottsville PA.. Likely at least a few people here got an engine from him over the years). The block was a race block and he told me it was 40 over and just needed a hone and could be built. I brought the block to my engine builder and he confirmed that the cylinder walls, deck surface etc was good, He would clean it up, prime it etc and just hone / crosshatch the cylinder walls and assemble. Here is a picture of the block at his shop. I asked if there was any reason to just go 60 over and he said doing so may be pushing it as these blocks had core shift issues so I kept it as he recommended.

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