Rotor replacement

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Originals were swedged. If the rotors have been replaced they are not swedged. It is easy to tell, if you can see the countersink and hole around the stud, they have been replaced. The swedge covers these the countersink and through hole on original rotor hubs. If yours looks like the bottom picture you are good to go. If not, they are original and swedged.

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Thanks for the info. I'll have to check my hubs.
 
Sweet 67 S!
4 speed?

I must say, I don't have a dog in this fight, but when I first did KH brakes I brought the hub/rotor to a mechanic friend to separate as I had no clue at the time.

He tried to press apart, using an actual press, and they wouldn't come out.
He ended up cutting the studs off flush, and drilling through them in the back side, iirc.
I don't recall much else, as a complete novice to drums and hubs and rotors held together this way, I still thought it strange.

I have another set I plan on rebuilding, the 'original' set off my car, which was fairly intact and unmolested when I got it.
I'll be taking a closer look at those, for my own edification at the least.

My 64 Fury, drums on all 4, were definitely all swedged.
 
All I know is, all of the rotors I have ever replaced the studs popped right out with like 2 pops of an air chisel. IF they were swedged, that would not have happened. I'm not gonna argue one way or the other, but that's my experience. I've never seen KH disc brakes with swedged studs. As I've said many times in the past, that doesn't mean "much".
 
If you see you need the studs, I have *** N.O.S. *** LEFTY and Righty Wheel Studs, and *** N.O.S. *** Asbestos *** Front 4 - piston caliper Disc Brake Pads , the nicest, softest, smoooooothest braking system known to mankind --- and , most importantly, they don't rip up Rotors to smithereens....

P.M. me, as per forum rules, if you need or want....
Yours, Craig....
 
So here's what I have. Swedged or not?
IMG_20220103_195518957.jpg
 
Sweet 67 S!
4 speed?

I must say, I don't have a dog in this fight, but when I first did KH brakes I brought the hub/rotor to a mechanic friend to separate as I had no clue at the time.

He tried to press apart, using an actual press, and they wouldn't come out.
He ended up cutting the studs off flush, and drilling through them in the back side, iirc.
I don't recall much else, as a complete novice to drums and hubs and rotors held together this way, I still thought it strange.

I have another set I plan on rebuilding, the 'original' set off my car, which was fairly intact and unmolested when I got it.
I'll be taking a closer look at those, for my own edification at the least.

My 64 Fury, drums on all 4, were definitely all swedged.
Yes, 4 Speed. The way God intended.
 
So here's what I have. Swedged or not?View attachment 1715847107

Just put those darn rotors under the ram of a hydraulic press, and press those studs out.
You will find out that they will come right out.
Easy Peasy.
Your not gonna hurt any of the rotors doing it.
You have nothing to loose anyway.
Your gonna be replacing the rotors with new anyway, aren't you?
All that i have ever used is a 12 ton Harbor Freight, hydraulic press, for 20 + years and NEVER ran into any problems.
And longer than that if you go back to when i started wrenching professionally back in 1980, using whatever press the shop(s) had while working there.
 
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Just put those darn rotors under the ram of a hydraulic press, and press those studs out.
You will find out that they will come right out.
East Peasy.
Your not gonna hurt any of the rotors doing it.
You have nothing to loose anyway.
Your gonna be replacing the rotors with new anyway, aren't you?
All that i have ever used is a 12 ton Harbor Freight, hydraulic press, for 20 + years and NEVER ran into any problems.
And longer than that if you go back to when i started wrenching professionally back in 1980, using whatever press the shop(s) had while working there.
Thanks for the advice. Have you ever run into a problem with runout? Wobbly rotors that had to be machined (cut)?
 
Thanks for the advice. Have you ever run into a problem with runout? Wobbly rotors that had to be machined (cut)?

Sure.
I professionally wrenched for a living for about 30 years.
Back in the day it was standard practice to machine, drums, rotors, when doing a brake job.
Now a days shops don't even have a brake lathe anymore, as modern cars have drums, and rotors, that you just replace.
Throw a way parts.
Remove and replace.
 
Sure.
I professionally wrenched for a living for about 30 years.
Back in the day it was standard practice to machine, drums, rotors, when doing a brake job.
Now a days shops don't even have a brake lathe anymore, as modern cars have drums, and rotors, that you just replace.
Throw a way parts.
Remove and replace.
A local mechanic/shop teacher told me that because the hub and new rotor are two pieces bound together I will have to get the new rotors cut to make sure that they are aligned (in plane) with the hub. Otherwise they could be too much runout and I'll get vibrating. What do you think about this.
 
Sure.
I professionally wrenched for a living for about 30 years.
Back in the day it was standard practice to machine, drums, rotors, when doing a brake job.
Now a days shops don't even have a brake lathe anymore, as modern cars have drums, and rotors, that you just replace.
Throw a way parts.
Remove and replace.
Throw away parts on throw away cars.
 
A local mechanic/shop teacher told me that because the hub and new rotor are two pieces bound together I will have to get the new rotors cut to make sure that they are aligned (in plane) with the hub. Otherwise they could be too much runout and I'll get vibrating. What do you think about this.
Nope.
Don't believe in that mans theory.
Many times in years gone by, i have sold complete, 100% all there, nothing missing, these 65-72 Kelsey Hayes disc brake systems to members on this forum.
Many times with new rotors onto the hubs.
Nobody has ever gotten back with me, stating they ever had any kind of problems with my rebuilds.

Kelsey Hayes A Body Brakes 2014 010 (Copy).JPG
 
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A local mechanic/shop teacher told me that because the hub and new rotor are two pieces bound together I will have to get the new rotors cut to make sure that they are aligned (in plane) with the hub. Otherwise they could be too much runout and I'll get vibrating. What do you think about this.

I have not had that problem either. There is not a lot of meat in those rotors so I would not cut them unless you have a problem. I do not see a swedge on your rotors. You should be able to reuse the studs. Looks like you are good to go.
 
A local mechanic/shop teacher told me that because the hub and new rotor are two pieces bound together I will have to get the new rotors cut to make sure that they are aligned (in plane) with the hub. Otherwise they could be too much runout and I'll get vibrating. What do you think about this.
If you are concerned, mount and adjust them and use a dial indicator to check for run-out. There isn't much meat to cut on these babies so hopefully they will be true. You never can tell with China castings.
 
Clown? He was correct. My original H/K rotors were not swedged. Please go away.

I never said they were. Since you said yours were very original, I thought yours might be. Yours are not original, and the rotors have been replaced. I just wanted to warn you that they might be swedged. The person in question has maintained that K-H rotors were never swedged, despite pictures and proof that the original K-H rotors did come swedged. It is easy to tell. If you can see the hole where the stud comes through the hub and the chamfer around it, then then is no swedge. If you can not see the hole and chamfer where the stud comes through, what is covering it up? How many untouched original K-H rotors do you think are out there since 1972? But there are a few. Sorry, just trying to save you some time and possibly trouble.
 
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