Rotor replacement

[SGBARRACUDA]

I own a AAMCO 4000 drum /rotor lathe. It has been my experience that if the run out on your rotors is .005 or more you more than likely going to feel brake pulsation. When I turn a rotor, the best results I have been able to attain on my lathe is .001. Which is more than good enough.

 

[Jim910]

I own a AAMCO 4000 drum /rotor lathe. It has been my experience that if the run out on your rotors is .005 or more you more than likely going to feel brake pulsation. When I turn a rotor, the best results I have been able to attain on my lathe is .001. Which is more than good enough.

So I would assume that if there's an issue with runout you would turn the rotors after they were attached to the hub? Together as one unit?

 

[hemi71x]

Too true. Pictures and all. What a clown. Good to see you are still with us.

You need to stop throwing out miss information all the time with your theory that you have to remove a rotor from the hub by going threw all your BS in you hafta do it your way, or no way.
You make a mountain out of a mole hill.
Well then 66fs i am calling you out.
You and me are still going to have a rotor removal show down.
You need to shut your trap, and just tell people that you can just remove rotors under the ram of a press or a bfh.

Every KH disc brake system that i ever rebuilt and then sold, i always separated the hub from the rotor, to clean, paint up the parts, then put them back together.
How come i never, ever, had parts that wouldn't come apart, without a cutting swedge tool?
And i used to just remove hubs from rotors at the wrecking yards by just hammering on the studs, when the rotors were already shot to hell.
Never really kept count but i easily can say i sold 20+ disc brake systems on this forum throughout all these years.
Now it's been quite a few years that even an old donor car gets to a Pick-n-Pull wrecking yard anymore, let alone a disc brake car, for donor parts.

 

[hemi71x]

So I would assume that if there's an issue with runout you would turn the rotors after they were attached to the hub? Together as one unit?

If your really, really, concerned about rotor run out, mount a dial indicator on them when you get done, as CFD244 suggested in reply 48.
You think the factory rotor assembly line ever put a dial indicator to these things when they put them together.
Of course not.
Then there were untold disc brake cars out there from new, running around the streets, without any run out issues.

 

[66fs]

You need to stop throwing out miss information all the time with your theory that you have to remove a rotor from the hub by going threw all your BS in you hafta do it your way, or no way.
You make a mountain out of a mole hill.
Well then 66fs i am calling you out.
You and me are still going to have a rotor removal show down.
You need to shut your trap, and just tell people that you can just remove rotors under the ram of a press or a bfh...

No theory. You swore there was no such thing as swedged studs. You had done thousands and never seen one. I proved you wrong, with pictures. Now you say it matters not just beat them out with a BFH or a press, you can't damage a hub. Which is it, Clown? I care not what you think. You will never touch anything of mine, nor do I need any of your overpriced stuff. I never said anybody has to do anything my way. That would you. I decide what and how I will do anything, as anyone else with a brain should. It's funny how you think you win because I don't continue arguing. My point is made, take it or leave it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

So I would assume that if there's an issue with runout you would turn the rotors after they were attached to the hub? Together as one unit?

Yes sir. That's how I would approach it, since that's how they run on the car. Completely assembled.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Remember too, concerning runout, that the Kelsey Hayes four piston caliper system will be more forgiving to runout. It has four independent pistons in each caliper. Although the caliper is fixed to the spindle, the four separate pistons do absorb some irregularities regarding the rotor.

 

[hemi71x]

No theory. You swore there was no such thing as swedged studs. You had done thousands and never seen one. I proved you wrong, with pictures. Now you say it matters not just beat them out with a BFH or a press, you can't damage a hub. Which is it, Clown? I care not what you think. You will never touch anything of mine, nor do I need any of your overpriced stuff. I never said anybody has to do anything my way. That would you. I decide what and how I will do anything, as anyone else with a brain should. It's funny how you think you win because I don't continue arguing. My point is made, take it or leave it.

Hey

No theory. You swore there was no such thing as swedged studs. You had done thousands and never seen one. I proved you wrong, with pictures. Now you say it matters not just beat them out with a BFH or a press, you can't damage a hub. Which is it, Clown? I care not what you think. You will never touch anything of mine, nor do I need any of your overpriced stuff. I never said anybody has to do anything my way. That would you. I decide what and how I will do anything, as anyone else with a brain should. It's funny how you think you win because I don't continue arguing. My point is made, take it or leave it.

In 30 years a professional auto mechanic, wrenching on cars and trucks for a living, i have worked on them all, Kelsey Hayes, Bendix, BUDD, Delco Morane, and probably every foreign brake system that you can think of in a modern car.
In that length of time i NEVER came across a rotor and hub assembly, that wouldn't come apart by pressing out the studs, swedged or not.
A 12 ton, or 20 ton press, or anything in between is gonna get those studs out, no matter what.
So in the long run who needs to give a crap, if swedged or not.
DRUM brakes, yes, swedged, Disc brakes, never gave it any concern, as all i needed to do was go over to the press, get the job done, out the door, earn my living.
And boy, i never would want you as a customer of mine, anyway.
Overpriced, i don't think so.
You wan't to know what shop labor rates are these days are around my area, (Sacramento) $140.00 - $175.00 an hour, and lots more than that when you get into the San Francisco area cities.
So if i charged 1/2 that in my rebuilding, your coming out way ahead, on labor rate time.
I'm not going to be working at minimum wages, or now a day's a kid at McDonalds is getting 15 bucks an hour, at unskilled labor.
Nobody ever complained to me what they purchased the parts at.
Everyone is glad just to get all rebuilt parts.
Tell you what.
Why don't you find a set, whatever you have to pay to get them,go through all the rebuilding, parts and labor, and then sell your stuff cheaper than me, and be my competition out there in the rebuilding network.
How's that sound to you?
Tell me how the hell your gonna damage a hub, if your gonna use a bfh on the studs?
You must have a lousy aim if you miss the stud on your swing.
Guess you could put a dent in it, but i think that's all that will happen.

 

[Jim910]

Thanks,

If your really, really, concerned about rotor run out, mount a dial indicator on them when you get done, as CFD244 suggested in reply 48.
You think the factory rotor assembly line ever put a dial indicator to these things when they put them together.
Of course not.
Then there were untold disc brake cars out there from new, running around the streets, without any run out issues.

Thanks, I appreciate the knowledge. I'm just trying to gather as much info as I can before I start, plus I love learning about this stuff. Here's why I was asking about runout. I have a good friend who's a retired mechanic and he said I'd probably have to turn the new rotors after I mounted them to the hub because they weren't born together. At first I doubted him but then I read in the manual that if you need to replace the rotors they should be replaced as a unit with the hub. The manual also says that if you have to separate the rotor from the hub to replace a damaged stud you should first place an alignment mark on both and so that when you reassemble them the marks should line up so that they stay in "balance"(their word). So it seemed to me that the rotor/hub assemblies were coming to the Line (and parts dept.) preassembled and balanced from the supplier. Since it seems that no-one has had any issues with runout or balance so I'll just change them and re-mount them and see how it goes.

 

[hemi71x]

Years and years ago, rotors and hubs, came together as one unit.
That's how they were sold and marketed.
You needed a new rotor, you got it with a hub.
That's how it was, back in the day.
Then back in the 80's or so these parts became obsolete, and you couldn't get them any where any longer.
Then slowly Raybestos started making rebuild kits, and replacement pistons again.
Then wow, whoopee, we can again rebuild calipers.
After awhile rotors came back on the market, and Centric, really cashed in on those repop ones.
Now you can rebuild the entire KH brake system.
Thats why HUBS for the KH brake system are so hard to find, and come across in this day and age.
They were thrown out with the old, worn out rotor.
Who would have thunk it, rotors would come available again, but they would be rotor only.
But it's good that rotors are available.
Good luck, with your brakes.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks,


Thanks, I appreciate the knowledge. I'm just trying to gather as much info as I can before I start, plus I love learning about this stuff. Here's why I was asking about runout. I have a good friend who's a retired mechanic and he said I'd probably have to turn the new rotors after I mounted them to the hub because they weren't born together. At first I doubted him but then I read in the manual that if you need to replace the rotors they should be replaced as a unit with the hub. The manual also says that if you have to separate the rotor from the hub to replace a damaged stud you should first place an alignment mark on both and so that when you reassemble them the marks should line up so that they stay in "balance"(their word). So it seemed to me that the rotor/hub assemblies were coming to the Line (and parts dept.) preassembled and balanced from the supplier. Since it seems that no-one has had any issues with runout or balance so I'll just change them and re-mount them and see how it goes.

Jim, Jim is a super guy. He's a real asset to this site. He's probably torn apart more brakes and suspension than most people have ever seen. He does really nice rebuilds, too. Very high quality. In short, you get what you pay for.

 

[66fs]

... In 30 years a professional auto mechanic, wrenching on cars and trucks for a living, i have worked on them all, Kelsey Hayes, Bendix, BUDD, Delco Morane, and probably every foreign brake system that you can think of in a modern car.
In that length of time i NEVER came across a rotor and hub assembly, that wouldn't come apart by pressing out the studs, swedged or not.
A 12 ton, or 20 ton press, or anything in between is gonna get those studs out, no matter what.
So in the long run who needs to give a crap, if swedged or not.
DRUM brakes, yes, swedged, Disc brakes, never gave it any concern, as all i needed to do was go over to the press, get the job done, out the door, earn my living.
And boy, i never would want you as a customer of mine, anyway.... Tell me how the hell your gonna damage a hub, if your gonna use a bfh on the studs?
You must have a lousy aim if you miss the stud on your swing.
Guess you could put a dent in it, but i think that's all that will happen.

Still not buying it. See this thread post #15 KH Hub removal ? . Why not buy a $10 hole saw and cut the swedge using a drill? Or drill the head off the stud from behind, then there is zero chance of damaging anything? Then all it takes is a light press or a hammer an a brass drift to get them out or in without damaging anything. Just like any rotors without the swedge. I never worried about time when I was in the automotive business, Sometimes you win, some times you loose. No stress, keep safe and take care of yourself.

 

[hemi71x]

Still not buying it. See this thread post #15 KH Hub removal ? . Why not buy a $10 hole saw and cut the swedge using a drill? Or drill the head off the stud from behind, then there is zero chance of damaging anything? Then all it takes is a light press or a hammer an a brass drift to get them out or in without damaging anything. Just like any rotors without the swedge. I never worried about time when I was in the automotive business, Sometimes you win, some times you loose. No stress, keep safe and take care of yourself.[/Q

Another old posting that you brought back up from the dead.

Have you Ever just put a rotor and hub under the ram of a press to press out the studs, other than making a mountain of a mole hill, that you like to do?

Learned earlier in my mechanic life you can do it this way too, if a stud is stuck in place.

All that you do is get a deep well impact socket out of your tool box, the diameter a bit bigger that the head of the stud, on the back side of the rotor.
Place it under the stud, go over to the press, put the stud you want to press out, and press out the stud into the deep well impact socket.
Under the ram of a 12 ton or 20 ton press, that stud is going to come out, with ease.

Taught you something new here this morning, haven't i.

Try it, gonna save you lots of time without you making mountains out of mole hills that you like to do.