SB Road Racing/Nascar/Sprint Car/Reving BUDGET BUILD

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junkyardhero said:
it's not so much about the hassle, it's about the money to make that kind of power (from that starting point) and do so reliably.

if you're talking budget and stages of upgrades i'd say 5.9 from the yard is probably the easy and dirty way to make it happen. or start with a 360, or maybe that 340 block. those will give you the broadest selection of aftermarket go fast goodies both new and used.

is the rest of the car sorted? like, chassis wise? because that's a huge financial consideration as well.
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Yes, everything on the car has been figured out already. The car is just missing some items to get it to a point where it can be assembled. I just had a change of heart about learning how the car feels with a carb based engine/ less power before stepping up and over powering the car for my driving abilities
 
the more i look at where you're trying to go, the more i'm inclined to say just go 5.9

you get cubes, good flowing heads and a roller motor from the jump. snap on a 4bbl intake, throw some garage porting at the heads, get a cam and match the springs, roller rockers if you're feeling it, upgrade the timing set and throw a road race pan at it, knock some headers on and call it done.

you'll easily reach your 400hp goal without exotic parts and have room to grow from there. it's not gonna rev to the moon, but you'll have plenty of useable power. the recipe is already there for that, and worst case if you have to rebuild the motor bearings/rings/pistons aren't going to break the bank.

i would 100% say go with an aluminum flywheel and as lightweight of a clutch/pressure plate set up as you can afford and are comfortable driving.
 
junkyardhero said:
the more i look at where you're trying to go, the more i'm inclined to say just go 5.9

you get cubes, good flowing heads and a roller motor from the jump. snap on a 4bbl intake, throw some garage porting at the heads, get a cam and match the springs, roller rockers if you're feeling it, upgrade the timing set and throw a road race pan at it, knock some headers on and call it done.

you'll easily reach your 400hp goal without exotic parts and have room to grow from there. it's not gonna rev to the moon, but you'll have plenty of useable power. the recipe is already there for that, and worst case if you have to rebuild the motor bearings/rings/pistons aren't going to break the bank.

i would 100% say go with an aluminum flywheel and as lightweight of a clutch/pressure plate set up as you can afford and are comfortable driving.
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Thank You, this is good advice and information to think about.

The other part of this is, I really want to try and do things like the porting etc myself and learn by trying.

I want to try and throw this engine together like you mentioned and just replace the critical parts like bearings and rings.

It really is between the 5.2 and 5.9. I like the 5.2 because as some have mentioned I will be able to move that RPM a little higher. Here is the thing I have learned along the sport car path. If I can make power in the higher power band and eliminate the amount of shifting I have to do because I can carry the car through the corner and out with a lower gear than I am better suited.

If I could find a way to mix the 5.2 and 5.9 (340) then that's something I would look at. There is a 340 for sale, but it's bare as bare and would need a cam and heads.

I am in NO HURRY to figure this out, I just like the brain storming part with everyone as I am not looking to perfect this, I just am looking to find a starting point for the path to the 6.4.
 
SRT_DSTRHOLC said:
Thank You, this is good advice and information to think about.

The other part of this is, I really want to try and do things like the porting etc myself and learn by trying.

I want to try and throw this engine together like you mentioned and just replace the critical parts like bearings and rings.

It really is between the 5.2 and 5.9. I like the 5.2 because as some have mentioned I will be able to move that RPM a little higher. Here is the thing I have learned along the sport car path. If I can make power in the higher power band and eliminate the amount of shifting I have to do because I can carry the car through the corner and out with a lower gear than I am better suited.

If I could find a way to mix the 5.2 and 5.9 (340) then that's something I would look at. There is a 340 for sale, but it's bare as bare and would need a cam and heads.

I am in NO HURRY to figure this out, I just like the brain storming part with everyone as I am not looking to perfect this, I just am looking to find a starting point for the path to the 6.4.
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a stock 5.9 is probably safe to 6K but more than likely would run out of breath well before then.

with ARP bolts and aftermarket (lighter, forged) pistons i don't see why it couldn't live to 7 (with proper oiling mods)

but again, without an induction system that could support that it's kind of a moot point. the valve springs and ports will let you know how far you can go.

i guess the point i'm trying to make is that basing a decision on high RPM output because of cubic inches, when you'll rarely, if ever, need or exceed that threshold is kind of shooting yourself in the foot when the trade off is torque and easier production of power due to more CI.

there's tons of online tutorials and porting templates for the home porter, so go nuts. what's the worst that happens? you goober one up and gotta go to the yard and get another?

building that 340 would easily cost 3X as much as snapping together a 5.9 for the same power.
 
SRT_DSTRHOLC said:
HI guys,

Please take kindly to the title as it's an attention grabber to get some of the old heads in here to help out.

I will clear the air before we get that one guy in here, my plan is to build a 73 Duster Multi purpose car that I can drive on the street/weekend/Road Race (laguna, sears point, willow) etc.

I want to do this from the ground up and instead of throwing in the Gen3 hemi I have right away, I want to do a budget build to R&D from the ground up using what Mother Mopar has already made. I will have a 6 speed TR6060 with a shortened 5th and 6th gear for the trans and then a 8 3/4 with 4.10 SureGrip. The car the engine will be in will be around 3000 lbs.

My "IDEA" is to get a stock 318-360 LA/Magnum and push the limits on her and really see what breaks and what doesn't, but before I go cowboy on this. I wanted to bring in the voices that have been doing this longer than I have to maybe guide my route on what would be the better base engine to work with.

What I want to do or had in mind was starting with a stock engine, running it and seeing what she does and then slowly mod the engine and track the progress for R&D. Eventually I would like to help others in this MOPAR world like most of you have done for me, but I figure what would be better than a ground up journal build tracking a base engine build.

Today everyone wants to go fast and we all have been guilty of throwing parts to go fast or say we make this and that number, but I wanted to take it back and maybe be someone who says "****, I did that with a stock bottom end 318 and this is what we did to survive or this is what we ran into."

So I know that I may not be the first to do this, but I really want the challenge of taking the high road and testing on the road, not on a dyno.

So I hope any advice would or guidance would help..



Right now I have access to a 69 318 which I believe made 230hp and 340tq or I could look into a bare block 340 or a magnum 318/360 from the yard.

I'd like to go the cheapest route as many people starting off here won't have the budget or knowledge to go any other route. Plus a lot of the information I grew up learning from y'all is stored WAY BACK in the archives of this website.


SO Here is to the budget builders...
Click to expand...

I’m late to the party….. budget and race car engine are not possible. To that end, getting the most of what you spend on is the important issue here more so than what you’re spending.

As cheap and effective as possible with the most power return on parts our base for the most ececrive
SRT_DSTRHOLC said:
HI guys,

Please take kindly to the title as it's an attention grabber to get some of the old heads in here to help out.

I will clear the air before we get that one guy in here, my plan is to build a 73 Duster Multi purpose car that I can drive on the street/weekend/Road Race (laguna, sears point, willow) etc.

I want to do this from the ground up and instead of throwing in the Gen3 hemi I have right away, I want to do a budget build to R&D from the ground up using what Mother Mopar has already made. I will have a 6 speed TR6060 with a shortened 5th and 6th gear for the trans and then a 8 3/4 with 4.10 SureGrip. The car the engine will be in will be around 3000 lbs.

My "IDEA" is to get a stock 318-360 LA/Magnum and push the limits on her and really see what breaks and what doesn't, but before I go cowboy on this. I wanted to bring in the voices that have been doing this longer than I have to maybe guide my route on what would be the better base engine to work with.

What I want to do or had in mind was starting with a stock engine, running it and seeing what she does and then slowly mod the engine and track the progress for R&D. Eventually I would like to help others in this MOPAR world like most of you have done for me, but I figure what would be better than a ground up journal build tracking a base engine build.

Today everyone wants to go fast and we all have been guilty of throwing parts to go fast or say we make this and that number, but I wanted to take it back and maybe be someone who says "****, I did that with a stock bottom end 318 and this is what we did to survive or this is what we ran into."

So I know that I may not be the first to do this, but I really want the challenge of taking the high road and testing on the road, not on a dyno.

So I hope any advice would or guidance would help..



Right now I have access to a 69 318 which I believe made 230hp and 340tq or I could look into a bare block 340 or a magnum 318/360 from the yard.

I'd like to go the cheapest route as many people starting off here won't have the budget or knowledge to go any other route. Plus a lot of the information I grew up learning from y'all is stored WAY BACK in the archives of this website.


SO Here is to the budget builders...
Click to expand...

I’m late to the party. I’m also attempting for the 4th time to reply to this thread. So I’m going to make this stupid short.

Your combo of a “Budget” race engine can’t be done.

I’d do a 5.9 w/Trickflow heads, Harlandsharp 1.6 rockers and used 1-7/8 headers because TTI’s are expensive, which means used Hookers or Hedmans.

For the following parts, intake, camshaft, and possibly a carb, No recommendation is suggested or even guessed at since the track size, shape, racing demands are very broad and an intake, cam & carb change can be huge!

Can you machine anything yourself like the block or port heads?
 
I think another avenue would be to buy a 5.7 as a temp motor. Leave it stock at first and then throw a cam at it when it is time to upgrade. Should fit your HP limit and sets you up for a 6.4 later.

Honestly though, it kind of seems like you are already set on an LA/Magnum build. Which I can understand.

I agree with junkyardhero, I think the 5.9 is the better path. But here are some thoughts, free of charge. :D

I think your RPM goals are going to cost you, but I can understand the reasoning. My suggestion is maybe an early 318 with a forged crank. Maybe find a 5.2 and swap that forged crank into it. This gives you a forged crank to build on even though you still need better pistons and rods at some point, but you get a cheap and easy path to a roller cam and you start with a better compression ratio. If the roller cam doesn't hold much value, then just stick to the early 318.

The heads are going to be a bottle neck if you end up just buying what is available right now, unless you spring for Edelbrocks or something. If you go aluminum, then I wouldn't even look at Magnum style heads. The idea with a Magnum head is that stock they are better than a junkyard LA head. So the Magnum head gives you a step up, just not as good as when they were new or when the EQ heads were available. So buy some cheap replacements, run them as is (after having them checked) and then port them later.

I would say run the 340 as that will be king in the RPM game, but anymore seems like that is a budget killer. You can find a 5.2 that runs for cheap but a 340 is big dollars even when it is only a block. Maybe your options are different, and if the 340 would pencil out I would be all over that.

I'd run a smaller single plane and the biggest cam that you can depending on valve lift limitations and such. I am sure it will be kind of soft down low, but rev better and it is just a first level setup anyway.

I think you will be down power over a 5.9, but maybe it will rev better and feel like a baby 340 or something.

I do think that comparing this to an air-cooled Porsche is a problem. They need to rev so it makes sense to set it up to be able to use those RPM's. Even a small V8 is going to build gobs more low end torque and you might find that you can use a taller gear and save the downshift because it has the torque to pull you out of the corner. Just a thought.

I've always love the idea of a small cubed Mopar V8 that rev's to the moon. Something like you mentioned with the TransAm cars with their de-stroked motors. But remember they didn't de-stroke them and then rev them to the moon because it was faster that way, they did it because it was the rules and it was what they had to do. Wouldn't be surprised if given the leeway, those teams wouldn't have preferred a larger motor and less RPM's and been faster overall.

All that said, I've never actually done any of this, so take it with a grain of salt.
 
1 st what speeds and not just top end speed will you be operating at and what rpms will you need to turn thru each gear, tracks with a lot of slow tight turns is gonna benefit from low rpm power than tracks of a higher average speed a long straight aways.

Once you got an idea where you need power (rpm) then figure how much power at these rpms is needed will help decide displacement. Then we can figure parts to get that power where needed.

Eg. if you needed peak power of 350 hp at 6000 rpm, that's 306 tq @ 6000 which tq at peak hp is about 90% of peak tq give or take a few % = so the engines peak tq is about 340 tq, 1.25 tq per cid is a decent obtainable number. 340/1.25 = 272 or 273 being closest engine if around 350 hp around 6000 was the goal. Or a terribly inefficient tq:cid of 1.07 tq = 318.

I think you said you want 300-400 hp at 6000-7000 rpm a 318 would make 380-480+ hp at those numbers a 360 probably will make 450 to into 500s + hp. A 300-400 hp 360 is like 4500-5500 rpm peak and 318 5200-6200 rpm.

Obviously there's a lot of variables, stronger tq:cid would lower the rpms where the power is made and weaker tq:cid vice versa.
 
I spent several years around the dirt track circuit building engines, tuning engines and tuning chassis. The only thing I will add is this. The engine in and of itself is really not the biggest player. It's the car. A well set up chassis with a stock engine can put the fire to a lot of things on the track. Just my personal observation.
 
At our local track the only dodge we had in open wheel only ran used 360 with a cam, had enough power just to keep up and did all his passing in the corners, won majority of the races.
 
"I want to build a budget small block that revs to 7,000 RPM." Someone please tell me what's wrong with that statement......
You're gonna spend real money making a small block valvetrain live reliably at any sustained RPM above 6 grand. Then you need the cylinder heads to support as well. Not doing that with stock castings. You have a gen 3 already, do what Dion suggested and find a stockish 5.7 and get used to the car. Even with just a cam swap, the gen 3 is capable of heavy breathing and some good RPM.
 
junkyardhero said:
a stock 5.9 is probably safe to 6K but more than likely would run out of breath well before then.

with ARP bolts and aftermarket (lighter, forged) pistons i don't see why it couldn't live to 7 (with proper oiling mods)

but again, without an induction system that could support that it's kind of a moot point. the valve springs and ports will let you know how far you can go.

i guess the point i'm trying to make is that basing a decision on high RPM output because of cubic inches, when you'll rarely, if ever, need or exceed that threshold is kind of shooting yourself in the foot when the trade off is torque and easier production of power due to more CI.

there's tons of online tutorials and porting templates for the home porter, so go nuts. what's the worst that happens? you goober one up and gotta go to the yard and get another?

building that 340 would easily cost 3X as much as snapping together a 5.9 for the same power.
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Thank you and that makes perfect sense. And I like this route idea as well because the torque down low will be there with the longer stroke, I was just thinking that the shorter stroke would be better and quicker to get the power up high, but this is just my thoughts
 
rumblefish360 said:
I’m late to the party….. budget and race car engine are not possible. To that end, getting the most of what you spend on is the important issue here more so than what you’re spending.

As cheap and effective as possible with the most power return on parts our base for the most ececrive

I’m late to the party. I’m also attempting for the 4th time to reply to this thread. So I’m going to make this stupid short.

Your combo of a “Budget” race engine can’t be done.

I’d do a 5.9 w/Trickflow heads, Harlandsharp 1.6 rockers and used 1-7/8 headers because TTI’s are expensive, which means used Hookers or Hedmans.

For the following parts, intake, camshaft, and possibly a carb, No recommendation is suggested or even guessed at since the track size, shape, racing demands are very broad and an intake, cam & carb change can be huge!

Can you machine anything yourself like the block or port heads?
Click to expand...
I should have been more clear. This won't be a race "only" car. I am looking to build an engine from stock to full or mostly aftermarket part and enjoy the process of going from stock to fully modified or not.

When I say "budget" I mean, I would like to build an engine, regardless of how many times I may have to change the bearings or gaskets, that will allow me to run at the track and enjoy it.

IF I could use all stock parts from any year of 5.9 or 5.2, etc with mix and matching stock parts and then upgrade to a air gap or M1 intake do so. My main idea is to R&D the process of what actually works and doesn't for "my style" of driving and car build.

I know that I could build a full R3 race engine and be good to go, but a lot of people starting out with these cars don't have the money to do that, so I want to go back to my roots of hot rodding and enjoy the process of a single cam change or a intake change or a manifold to header change and see how it effects the car overall. IT is a lengthy process, but to be honest, I like the process progress.

The machine work is something that I am willing to spend money on, but I want to do it in order instead of building the engine from start. I want to do a full car build from ground zero up mainly because the first engine I built was with the EGO of just wanting to go fast. This time I want to understand each part of the process. Also, I have looked at going to school to do machine working, but at the moment, I have no problem paying for that work. Assembly I have done.

I am a person who likes to do my own work, but when I need to ask for help I will, but I enjoy the hot rod process of trial and error
 
DionR said:
I think another avenue would be to buy a 5.7 as a temp motor. Leave it stock at first and then throw a cam at it when it is time to upgrade. Should fit your HP limit and sets you up for a 6.4 later.

Honestly though, it kind of seems like you are already set on an LA/Magnum build. Which I can understand.

I agree with junkyardhero, I think the 5.9 is the better path. But here are some thoughts, free of charge. :D

I think your RPM goals are going to cost you, but I can understand the reasoning. My suggestion is maybe an early 318 with a forged crank. Maybe find a 5.2 and swap that forged crank into it. This gives you a forged crank to build on even though you still need better pistons and rods at some point, but you get a cheap and easy path to a roller cam and you start with a better compression ratio. If the roller cam doesn't hold much value, then just stick to the early 318.

The heads are going to be a bottle neck if you end up just buying what is available right now, unless you spring for Edelbrocks or something. If you go aluminum, then I wouldn't even look at Magnum style heads. The idea with a Magnum head is that stock they are better than a junkyard LA head. So the Magnum head gives you a step up, just not as good as when they were new or when the EQ heads were available. So buy some cheap replacements, run them as is (after having them checked) and then port them later.

I would say run the 340 as that will be king in the RPM game, but anymore seems like that is a budget killer. You can find a 5.2 that runs for cheap but a 340 is big dollars even when it is only a block. Maybe your options are different, and if the 340 would pencil out I would be all over that.

I'd run a smaller single plane and the biggest cam that you can depending on valve lift limitations and such. I am sure it will be kind of soft down low, but rev better and it is just a first level setup anyway.

I think you will be down power over a 5.9, but maybe it will rev better and feel like a baby 340 or something.

I do think that comparing this to an air-cooled Porsche is a problem. They need to rev so it makes sense to set it up to be able to use those RPM's. Even a small V8 is going to build gobs more low end torque and you might find that you can use a taller gear and save the downshift because it has the torque to pull you out of the corner. Just a thought.

I've always love the idea of a small cubed Mopar V8 that rev's to the moon. Something like you mentioned with the TransAm cars with their de-stroked motors. But remember they didn't de-stroke them and then rev them to the moon because it was faster that way, they did it because it was the rules and it was what they had to do. Wouldn't be surprised if given the leeway, those teams wouldn't have preferred a larger motor and less RPM's and been faster overall.

All that said, I've never actually done any of this, so take it with a grain of salt.
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I appreciate this and this is along the route that I am gathering from everyone. Thank You Dion
 
273 said:
1 st what speeds and not just top end speed will you be operating at and what rpms will you need to turn thru each gear, tracks with a lot of slow tight turns is gonna benefit from low rpm power than tracks of a higher average speed a long straight aways.

Once you got an idea where you need power (rpm) then figure how much power at these rpms is needed will help decide displacement. Then we can figure parts to get that power where needed.

Eg. if you needed peak power of 350 hp at 6000 rpm, that's 306 tq @ 6000 which tq at peak hp is about 90% of peak tq give or take a few % = so the engines peak tq is about 340 tq, 1.25 tq per cid is a decent obtainable number. 340/1.25 = 272 or 273 being closest engine if around 350 hp around 6000 was the goal. Or a terribly inefficient tq:cid of 1.07 tq = 318.

I think you said you want 300-400 hp at 6000-7000 rpm a 318 would make 380-480+ hp at those numbers a 360 probably will make 450 to into 500s + hp. A 300-400 hp 360 is like 4500-5500 rpm peak and 318 5200-6200 rpm.

Obviously there's a lot of variables, stronger tq:cid would lower the rpms where the power is made and weaker tq:cid vice versa.
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This is some good math. My main track would be Laguna Seca, then there is a willow springs, button willow and sears point. I greatly appreciate your math as I had not gotten to this level of calculations yet. When I say 300-400hp I mean WHP. I am looking at the power to weight ratio that would be the biggest thing. It seems that either way, if I got 5.2 or 5.9 I will be okay, it's just deciding whether to go LA or Magnum in which it will be the best starting point and ending point
 
RustyRatRod said:
I spent several years around the dirt track circuit building engines, tuning engines and tuning chassis. The only thing I will add is this. The engine in and of itself is really not the biggest player. It's the car. A well set up chassis with a stock engine can put the fire to a lot of things on the track. Just my personal observation.
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Yes, I understand this as a miata with low power can run circles around some other cars because they can carry the weight through turns (go kart). This car has full coil over front and rear with watts link rear. The car has all of the UST Weld on items as well and a full road race inspired cage
 
SRT_DSTRHOLC said:
This is some good math. My main track would be Laguna Seca, then there is a willow springs, button willow and sears point. I greatly appreciate your math as I had not gotten to this level of calculations yet. When I say 300-400hp I mean WHP. I am looking at the power to weight ratio that would be the biggest thing. It seems that either way, if I got 5.2 or 5.9 I will be okay, it's just deciding whether to go LA or Magnum in which it will be the best starting point and ending point
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Both engines are able to make the power just the 318 will need about 500-800 rpms more than a 360 to make those numbers. So depends where you want to make it.
 
408 swinger said:
"I want to build a budget small block that revs to 7,000 RPM." Someone please tell me what's wrong with that statement......
You're gonna spend real money making a small block valvetrain live reliably at any sustained RPM above 6 grand. Then you need the cylinder heads to support as well. Not doing that with stock castings. You have a gen 3 already, do what Dion suggested and find a stockish 5.7 and get used to the car. Even with just a cam swap, the gen 3 is capable of heavy breathing and some good RPM.
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I undertstand. Here is the thing that I think you might have missed in part. The end goal is to have an engine that can rev to 7K Redline.

I have a 6.4 that makes the power 500-600WHP, but is above my driving capabilities.

I also have thought about the 5.7, but it's still fully electronic and will take tuning and other work that I am not wanting to do right now. I know carbs and distributors. I am not expecting to build a FULL race engine that has a redline of 7k for 500 dollars.

I am wanting to build an engine one piece at a time that I can enjoy until my driving ability matches that off 600 plus WHP in a very light car. It's been almost 10 years since I have driven this car and at that time it was a straight line car.
 
273 said:
Both engines are able to make the power just the 318 will need about 500-800 rpms more than a 360 to make those numbers. So depends where you want to make it.
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I don't mind needing more RPM.

Also this engine will be used later on in a drag car or circle track car so ALL knowledge that I gain during this process will help me down the road, I have just been away from hot rodding for so long that I am in the process of learning what most of you have said on this fourm 1000 times over.


So thank you to all of you, I really really do appreciate all of your input whether it's what I want to hear or not as I know I am the only one that can decide what I am going to do in the end, but your knowledge and own personal R&D will and has been a great amount of help.
 
SRT_DSTRHOLC said:
I don't mind needing more RPM.

Also this engine will be used later on in a drag car or circle track car so ALL knowledge that I gain during this process will help me down the road, I have just been away from hot rodding for so long that I am in the process of learning what most of you have said on this fourm 1000 times over.


So thank you to all of you, I really really do appreciate all of your input whether it's what I want to hear or not as I know I am the only one that can decide what I am going to do in the end, but your knowledge and own personal R&D will and has been a great amount of help.
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Basically the 360 I'd build for 6500 ish rpm redline and a 318 7000 ish rpm, 360 can spin more but this more endurance type racing, plus you can dig up a steel crank for the 318.

Here's a 318 build that might help with some ideas, this engine makes tq:cid 1.31tq:1 427tq/323 which is fairly high a 1.25 might be closer what expect which would about 400 rpm more. I try to find a few 360 eg.

n The Dyno DTS Dyno Data Performance Crankshaft 323CI Small-Block Mopar
RPMTQHP
2,500337161
2,600350173
2,700357183
2,800357190
2,900356196
3,000351201
3,100345204
3,200339207
3,300343216
3,400356230
3,500371247
3,600385264
3,700396279
3,800404292
3,900410305
4,000415316
4,100418327
4,200420336
4,300422345
4,400421353
4,500420360
4,600421369
4,700425380
4,800426390
4,900427398
5,000427407
5,100427414
5,200426421
5,300425428
5,400423435
5,500421440
5,600419446
5,700417453
5,800415458
5,900412462
6,000407465
6,100401466
6,200397469
6,300393471
6,400390475
6,500386477
 
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here's a 400 425 hp 318

These make 1.16-1.19 tq per cid

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/0810phr-chrysler-318-engine/

On The Dyno318 Mopar Street EngineSuperflow 901 Engine Dyno Stp Correction Factor Tested At Westech Performance Group

RPMTQTQHPHP
BASEPORTEDBASEPORTED
3,000335335192192
3,200342340208207
3,400351356228231
3,600365369250253
3,800374379271274
4,000379384289293
4,200378383302306
4,400375383314321
4,600376382329335
4,800375386343353
5,000372384354366
5,200367383363378
5,400361379371390
5,600355374379399
5,800350371386409
6,000345365395418
6,200341360402425
6,400329345401421
 
273 said:
Basically the I'd build for 6500 ish rpm redline and a 318 7000 ish rpm, 360 can spin more but this more endurance plus you can did up a steel crank for the 318.

Here's a 318 build that might help with some ideas, this engine makes tq:cid 1.31tq:1 427tq/323 which is fairly high a 1.25 might be closer what expect which would about 400 rpm more. I try to find a few 360 eg.

n The Dyno DTS Dyno Data Performance Crankshaft 323CI Small-Block Mopar
RPMTQHP
2,500337161
2,600350173
2,700357183
2,800357190
2,900356196
3,000351201
3,100345204
3,200339207
3,300343216
3,400356230
3,500371247
3,600385264
3,700396279
3,800404292
3,900410305
4,000415316
4,100418327
4,200420336
4,300422345
4,400421353
4,500420360
4,600421369
4,700425380
4,800426390
4,900427398
5,000427407
5,100427414
5,200426421
5,300425428
5,400423435
5,500421440
5,600419446
5,700417453
5,800415458
5,900412462
6,000407465
6,100401466
6,200397469
6,300393471
6,400390475
6,500386477
Click to expand...
That's a great build, thank you!
 
SRT_DSTRHOLC said:
Yes, I understand this as a miata with low power can run circles around some other cars because they can carry the weight through turns (go kart). This car has full coil over front and rear with watts link rear. The car has all of the UST Weld on items as well and a full road race inspired cage
Click to expand...
Sorta kinda what I meant and sorta kinda not. lol What I meant was, you can have all the best stuff on the car, but if it's not dialed in, you can get passed by something you thought was some real junk. lol
 
273 said:
here's a 400 425 hp 318

These make 1.16-1.19 tq per cid

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/0810phr-chrysler-318-engine/

On The Dyno318 Mopar Street EngineSuperflow 901 Engine Dyno Stp Correction Factor Tested At Westech Performance Group

RPMTQTQHPHP
BASEPORTEDBASEPORTED
3,000335335192192
3,200342340208207
3,400351356228231
3,600365369250253
3,800374379271274
4,000379384289293
4,200378383302306
4,400375383314321
4,600376382329335
4,800375386343353
5,000372384354366
5,200367383363378
5,400361379371390
5,600355374379399
5,800350371386409
6,000345365395418
6,200341360402425
6,400329345401421
Click to expand...
That's a stout teen!
 
273 said:
Basically the 360 I'd build for 6500 ish rpm redline and a 318 7000 ish rpm, 360 can spin more but this more endurance type racing, plus you can dig up a steel crank for the 318.

Here's a 318 build that might help with some ideas, this engine makes tq:cid 1.31tq:1 427tq/323 which is fairly high a 1.25 might be closer what expect which would about 400 rpm more. I try to find a few 360 eg.

n The Dyno DTS Dyno Data Performance Crankshaft 323CI Small-Block Mopar
RPMTQHP
2,500337161
2,600350173
2,700357183
2,800357190
2,900356196
3,000351201
3,100345204
3,200339207
3,300343216
3,400356230
3,500371247
3,600385264
3,700396279
3,800404292
3,900410305
4,000415316
4,100418327
4,200420336
4,300422345
4,400421353
4,500420360
4,600421369
4,700425380
4,800426390
4,900427398
5,000427407
5,100427414
5,200426421
5,300425428
5,400423435
5,500421440
5,600419446
5,700417453
5,800415458
5,900412462
6,000407465
6,100401466
6,200397469
6,300393471
6,400390475
6,500386477
Click to expand...
What is the article for this one?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Sorta kinda what I meant and sorta kinda not. lol What I meant was, you can have all the best stuff on the car, but if it's not dialed in, you can get passed by something you thought was some real junk. lol
Click to expand...
haha yes, this is another factor in me wanting to start with something more familiar (carb). This is a whole different car from when I first and last drove it. So I would like to start off with an engine I can tune without a computer and just focus in on the suspension and rest of the car first before throwing more power at it and making it a basket case
 
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