school me on dist

-
1930

1930

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
1,029
Reaction score
46
Location
Brandon
There has been alot of talk lately over on the slantorg website concerning dist.

Pain to post pictures over there and am hoping someone here can fill me in on the ins and outs of dist.

At this point I am running points type dist, I plan to convert to electronic later on but I am starting out with the basics cause thats what I feel is best for me.

I have no interest in Hei at this time, I do not want to deviate from the stock look.

I have a few questions,

1- Is there one particular year of slant whos dist is better than another, I have read tid-bits of info about plastic gear versus metal gears but dont know specific details.

2- They are talking about a super six dist and I believe the benefit is the advance mechanism within the can, they are saying that the cans are marked I believe on the outside so that the advance amount can be easily identified?

I have some re-manufactured dist still in the box purchased from local parts stores, two electronic and two points type, I see no markings on the cans.

I know very little about advance but as far as I can tell you guys are trying to get a quicker advance by loading weaker/different springs ( possibly )

I can post pictures if needed of my dist.

I have a 1986 Hydraulic engine I am putting back together. Thanks

EDIT: I did purchase a spring kit from a fellow on slantorg website, havent gotten as far as to figure any of that out though
 
personally i think HEI is your better choice. why add all the additional stuff for a "stock"look on a car that factory electronic ign isn't stock on anyway?


but if your set on the factory style stuff you can make any of the distributors do what you want them to do. you'll need to understand how to time your car first though.



timing1.jpg


timing2.jpg


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

timing3.jpg


timing4.jpg
 
...

1930 said:
There has been alot of talk lately over on the slantorg website concerning dist.

Pain to post pictures over there and am hoping someone here can fill me in on the ins and outs of dist.

At this point I am running points type dist, I plan to convert to electronic later on but I am starting out with the basics cause thats what I feel is best for me.

I have no interest in Hei at this time, I do not want to deviate from the stock look.

I have a few questions,

1- Is there one particular year of slant whos dist is better than another, I have read tid-bits of info about plastic gear versus metal gears but dont know specific details.


The Super Six (starting in 1977 I believe) had a better advance curve. Whether anything was different about the advance canister, I don't know. Almost all of the advance canisters from that era were adjustable, so I don't believe there would have been a difference in the advance canister.

2- They are talking about a super six dist and I believe the benefit is the advance mechanism within the can, they are saying that the cans are marked I believe on the outside so that the advance amount can be easily identified?

As long as the advance can has a "hex" in the can just behind the vacuum nipple, it is an adjustable unit. You adjust it with an allen wrench inside the nipple. Almost all of the 1970s and 1980s styles I have ever seen were they adjustable type. In fact, I cannot remember seeing a non adjustable type.

I have some re-manufactured dist still in the box purchased from local parts stores, two electronic and two points type, I see no markings on the cans.

The markings if any will usually be on the advance arms. Since most of the advance canisters were adjustable, there would be no need for different markings, so you likely will not find one.

I know very little about advance but as far as I can tell you guys are trying to get a quicker advance by loading weaker/different springs ( possibly )

Yes. The factory advance curve is such that when a performance adjustment is given to initial advance, then, there is too much total advance. So, often times the distributor must be dismantled, the advance slots welded up about 1/3 shut and then reassembled. This solves too much total advance with a performance initial setting. From there, you simply swap springs until you achieve the desired advance at a given RPM. Usually, you want the total advance "all in" by no later than 2500 for performance street applications, but each one varies.


I can post pictures if needed of my dist.

Might be helpful.

I have a 1986 Hydraulic engine I am putting back together. Thanks

EDIT: I did purchase a spring kit from a fellow on slantorg website, havent gotten as far as to figure any of that out though

It is a step by step process of finding the right springs for your particular combination. Since each vehicle may have different engine combinations, transmission types, rear end gears, vehicle weight and so forth, the advance curve is something that really needs to be tuned in to your particular vehicle. It is something you simply have to try with trial and error.

All of that said, Joe makes a very valid point for HEI, although the advance curve adjustment procedure will be similar.
Click to expand...
 
There are a lot of options. Reading online etc,, about what you could do leads to more questions and answers to read. Fact is you do have to do anything. OEM points ignition, in good condition, works fine. Just jack the base timing up to a point where it runs decent on todays fuel and drive it.
Remember that improving performance at the spark doesn't begin or end at the distributor. Tweaking the OEM by changing a spring in the mechanical advance isn't such a big deal. You can get a better throttle response by leaving a vacuum advance disconnected, thereby ignoring what throw it has.
To go any further from OEM you'll need appropriate plugs, plug wires ( that probably wont fit the OEM wire looms ), and a capable charging system.
In a way I feel like I should delete/change everything I've typed here to,...
"Stop surfing and drive". Good luck
 
I build quick advance distributors for the slant six. If you are interested, pm me for details.
 
In a truck I'm not sure that a fast advance curve is ideal. If it is worked hard a fast curve is a recipe for detonation w/o backing off the initial to less than ideal. Given that the application is a bit different than a street car I think that if you want to optimize the advance curve that it will take some experimentation.
 
Keep up! :)

I see nothing in this post either, but that is my recollection of 1930's /.
 
Yes, 1986 W ( 4 wheel drive ) 100. Original 225 slant, N.P 435 trans.

Thanks for the article and all the comments, I will take the time to read and I am sure I will pick something up.
 
OK, so it IS a truck. In that case, look up what a distributor curve was for a "pre" smog six say, a 67 or 66 or something and try and duplicate it IE have the distributor recurved. ANY distributor you buy (breakerless) is going to have a "smogger" curve

You can look the curves up in the back of Motor's manuals, old tune up sheets or.............service manuals, which you can download here...........

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617

Bear in mind that the "specs" in the manuals are listed in "distributor degrees" which are one HALF "crank" degrees.
 
If you want the "stock look" for your year, I think Pertronix is about your only option. It all fits under the distributor cap. It modifies a points distributor. I agree to the comment about why fool with a Mopar electronic ignition. It isn't at all stock look for your truck, is hard to wire, fairly expensive, less performance, and less reliable.
 
Stupid question maybe but whats the difference between the Mopar electronic ignition ( Im assuming when you mention that you mean the Mopar Performance electronic ignition avail via mail order ) and the electronic ignition set-up I removed from a 74 Dart donor car?

Are there any differences? The one I removed from the donor car had a blue box, I have seen the orange boxes but never a blue.

So there is a Blue, an orange and the stock unit, is that correct. Which are you guys running and why?
 
NOW the MP electronic ignition is a Mallory made distributor. Used to be before I think around 2004, the MP distributor was an EXACT duplicate of the 70s 340 style distributors.
 
Truck is an '86. Shouldn't it already have electronic ignition? What did I miss?

Assuming it did and does, then this condenses down to setting the advance curve to optimum for the use. Once that is accomplished then can start looking at better module options if desired. A great module on a poor curve isn't really going to do much beyond perhaps improving reliability (which isn't a bad thing all by itself).
 
BillGrissom said:
If you want the "stock look" for your year, I think Pertronix is about your only option. It all fits under the distributor cap. It modifies a points distributor. I agree to the comment about why fool with a Mopar electronic ignition. It isn't at all stock look for your truck, is hard to wire, fairly expensive, less performance, and less reliable.
Click to expand...

Hog wash Bill.... Drink all the kool-aid you want. The Chrysler electronic ignitions was one of the best ignitions invented. Good enough to put cars in the 9's and 10's. Install is simple,unless you cant wire 2 wires ? Expensive ? $45.00 dist, $25.00 harness, and an ECU.
Need I say more ? :burnout:
 
I tend to agree. I always liked the Mopar stuff. Never saw why anybody would even look at MSD.
 
Coming from extensive experience with Dura-Spark II modules I can't say the mopar module has been all that impressive, but I don't yet have near the experience (time) with them. I did have 3 modules in a row that were NFG right when I first got the Valiant, but I've no idea of the history of 2 of them (came with the car) and the third came from VatoZone so I'm doubting it's quality. I long ago learned the secret with the Dura-Sparks is to get them from the JY's. None of the new parts are worth much. That the same is true of the mopar modules would not be a surprise.

I put an MSD on a car, felt like maybe it's chokeless cold-starts were easier. That was about all that I could tell SOP. At one point in diagnosing a weird issue with the car I replaced the MSD with the Dura-Spark module that had come off of it. Didn't fix the problem, but couldn't tell the difference either. Since then I've acquired more MSD stuff. It's all sitting in a box in the shop.
 
ntsqd said:
Truck is an '86. Shouldn't it already have electronic ignition? What did I miss?

Assuming it did and does, then this condenses down to setting the advance curve to optimum for the use. Once that is accomplished then can start looking at better module options if desired. A great module on a poor curve isn't really going to do much beyond perhaps improving reliability (which isn't a bad thing all by itself).
Click to expand...

I got rid of all that stuff when I re-built the truck, I went thru the harness and removed all the unnecessary wires that were associated with lean burn. I had alot of help from Reed over on the slant forum whilst doing this.

He has been a big help to me as many of you have.

I am working with a points type dist at this point, for me it was easiest to get the truck initially running, I am working on up-grading alot of items now ( slowly ) ignition is one of them, I am in no rush, if the truck sits another year before if fires back up whilst I become better acquainted with slants peculiarities than that is fine for me.
 
Johnny Dart said:
Hog wash Bill.... Drink all the kool-aid you want. The Chrysler electronic ignitions was one of the best ignitions invented. Good enough to put cars in the 9's and 10's. Install is simple,unless you cant wire 2 wires ? Expensive ? $45.00 dist, $25.00 harness, and an ECU.
Need I say more ? :burnout:
Click to expand...

Thanks, I am glad that I am not alone. I do not want a non Mopar ignition on my truck at this point.
 
Here's the only thing about the newer MP stuff. They have a lot of failures. I ASSUME that whoever they have making the modules now is overseas. That would explain it. They kinda went two ways with it. With the distributors, they went the right way with Mallory, but the modules they just boogered up on. My advice would be to get a Standard Ignition LX101 module and run it, UNLESS you need something hotter. Then maybe that revonator thing. I hate even typin the name it's so ghey, but I have read nuthin but good things about them. I would have to paint over the name on mine. It's so stupid. Aside from all that, there's just something appealing to be able to plug every right right in with factory harnesses. That in itself to me is worth stickin with the Mopar stuff. As long as you know what to stay away from, you'll be ok. I would rather run one of the Mopar modules USED than a new one, there have been so many failures. I have even had friends get bad ones right out of the box.
 
Rob, from what I've read, even Echlin and Standard are now pretty much Chineseo. I just don't know. Unless you can find NOS I don't know. This is one reason I went with an HEI module. The quality might or might not be all that "better" but they are more popular, they don't need a ballast and you get more spark even with a factory coil.
 
Yeah, when I said Standard, I meant like NOS. I'm with you. There's no way to know what comes from where anymore. It's a shame, really. Used to could buy good stuff anywhere.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Here's the only thing about the newer MP stuff. They have a lot of failures. I ASSUME that whoever they have making the modules now is overseas. That would explain it. They kinda went two ways with it. With the distributors, they went the right way with Mallory, but the modules they just boogered up on. My advice would be to get a Standard Ignition LX101 module and run it, UNLESS you need something hotter. Then maybe that revonator thing. I hate even typin the name it's so ghey, but I have read nuthin but good things about them. I would have to paint over the name on mine. It's so stupid. Aside from all that, there's just something appealing to be able to plug every right right in with factory harnesses. That in itself to me is worth stickin with the Mopar stuff. As long as you know what to stay away from, you'll be ok. I would rather run one of the Mopar modules USED than a new one, there have been so many failures. I have even had friends get bad ones right out of the box.
Click to expand...
Thanks very much for your input, is this standard ignition module you made a link to a Mopar unit ( stupid question maybe )

Just to clarify.

If not than are the original NOS mopar units still avail from anywhere. Should I be looking for one that says MOPAR on it?

Id like to get the best parts I can, truck wont be a daily driver most likely unless something changes and what parts I put on it should last a very long time.
 
Was it me I'd look for "grandad's car", the obviously well maintained car in the junk yard, and buy it's OE module. That has been what has worked the best for me with the Dura-Spark's. Never had a JY sourced module fail, only those bought new.
 
1930 said:
Thanks very much for your input, is this standard ignition module you made a link to a Mopar unit ( stupid question maybe )

Just to clarify.

If not than are the original NOS mopar units still avail from anywhere. Should I be looking for one that says MOPAR on it?

Id like to get the best parts I can, truck wont be a daily driver most likely unless something changes and what parts I put on it should last a very long time.
Click to expand...

Get a 1973 dart slant six dist. I like the Cardone remand ones from O'Reilly.
Matching ballast resistor.
Mopar Performance harness.
As far as ECU...Napa usually sells quality parts,or look for a good name brand one off eBay.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top