slant 6 rebuild and upgrade list

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66Dvert

66Dvert

Working on my custom car parts again!
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Webster , florida
I'm getting ready to redo my engine now that I have the body of the car close to being done. I am still looking for a decent machine shop near the Brooksville,Bushnell, Ocala area in Florida.

Here is my basic list. I am open to suggestions about products and services


Slant 6 upgrades for eventual turbo.
9.1 approximate compression for pump gas. So no 10+ compression ratio I am not racing it just want it to be a bit smarter on acceleration and drivability.
Head
I have a Peanut head that I will be using (not drool tube, but I do have the original Drool tube 66 head if that would be better).
1. Need to hot tank and check for cracks.
2. Remove studs in head (save for cleaning and repair/replacement)
3. Valve replacement and repair
4. going to 1.70 And 1.44 for a little better flow.
5. Hardened exhaust seats
6. New guides / springs
7. Surfaced for flatness
8. find Sanden A/C mount for /6(nope not going to give up my A/C)
9.
10.

Block (5 Welch plug engine)
Unknown year and I'm looking for numbers on the block, 67-72 square A body 4 door donor (well at least the firewall, flat not beaked hood and one fender was).

11. Hot tank block
12. Rings, rods, cam bearings and main bearings (bore if needed)
13. Check crank and repair (/undersize as needed).
14. Deck the block .060-.080 to get the pistons closer to the deck. (.185 down now)
15. I will order new cam and lifters from Oregon Cam to get correct cam for the project.
(Looking at a slight upgrade from stock but the same or less overlap to help turbo, but open for suggestions since I'd like a nice idle for the A/C).
16. Order new pushrods after final measurements taken
17. New timing chain set. Mellings or Roll master set.
18. Get slant six 1966 oil pan and oil pickup tube off of trashed engine.


Add-ons or missed ideas (To Be Determined)
30. using "waggins" dual exhaust manifolds to route exhaust where I want it to go.
31.
32.
ect.
 
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just got the numbers off the top of the deck and they are
W 225 6079
side of the block is(front ) 530-7 (by starter )0398:

some other numbers on the rear section of the deck on the passengers rear top is 8B333549.
so any Idea what year block this is?
I know it is not a hydraulic block since it has adjustable rockers and solid lifters so that rules out 82
 
I have a 65 3 freeze plug block and head. I did on the head your 1 through 8. On your #7 I had both the head surface and intake/exhaust surface checked - head cut 10 thou. On your #7 am using 340 springs because of the cam. On my block I also did your #11 through #18. My block is overbored 30 thou and is decked 90 thou, crank standard both mains and rods. I sent my original cam to Oregon and had them regrind to their 346 profile (234/228 @ .050 106 CL with new solid lifters. My timing set is a double roller from a .org group buy. You can piece it together separately if desired. I would like to use my triple Weber set-up IF I can fit the Sanden mount in; if not then it's plan B with the Offy 4 barrel and FiTech FI unit. I will fit my Dutra Hyperpak and see if the Sanden mount fits as well. Clifford long tube headers which fit with PS are obligatory because I am using the Steer and Gear Stage III PS box. I would say you are on the right track with your plan.
 
run slightly less compression so you can run more boost.

use 2618 material pistons

get a custom cam made . chris straub is a good choice for a cam and it will work better if you get the head flowed and give him those numbers also.
 
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66fs said:
You already have hard exhaust seats.
Click to expand...

I don't think that they(hardened seats) will be in there. When I go to the larger valve setup, I understand that hardened seats are only a couple thou deep and can get removed if you go to a larger valve which is what I am doing. When we induction(rocklinize) hardened the tooling we used at work they were Max .005-8 depth before you hit softer metal. The compression will be maximum @ 9.1 to 1 and the turbo boost will be limited to 12psi. The compression might not be as high as 9 to 1 even if I deck the block .080 since this is a 78 block@110hp AND the current pistons are .185 in the hole already. I'm getting ready to CC the heads just to check where it's at "stock wise" I do have another earlier year motor that has not been opened up yet, but this block just didn't look to have much ring wear. I don't want a speed demon(got a 70 challenger, built 440-sixpack, 4 speed for that) just something that is snappy AND dependable with the top down and A/C on.


I'm trying to find a decent machine shop in central Florida to check the block,add the larger valves and do the machine work I want. I'm emailing my wish list to Oregon cams for a grind to work with my project.
 
you will turn it into scrap metal with 9.1 compression and 12 psi of boost.

a 6 cyl mopar with a turbo will not be snappy, you need a supercharger to make it snappy.
 
barnett468 said:
you will turn it into scrap metal with 9.1 compression and 12 psi of boost.

a 6 cyl mopar with a turbo will not be snappy, you need a supercharger to make it snappy.
Click to expand...

9.1 is to be determined by how far the darn pistons are in the hole @.185 in the hole with a stock compression of 8.4 to 1 for 1978 model year. I'd pretty much have to deck the block .60 to .80 at least and shave the head to get to 9 to 1. but I would not even wince at hitting 10-12psi turbo"ing" it. even on a stock motor. I know the higher the compression the lower the boost that can be tolerated.
225 1976-78 8.4 to 1 100 @ 3600 170 @ 1600


uhhhh really? not snappy? I'm sorry to disappoint you but there a few owners of sub 12 second 6 cylinders over on slantsix.org that might just disagree with you. Even a bunch of 12-14 second /6 turbo guys that will spank your mild build v8 all day long AND get better gas mileage while driving it home without doing anything to the car. when you have to trailer yours or change the slicks out for street tires. I've had both turbo(65 Plymouth Belvedere 440, turbo@ 21psi) and supercharged big blocks (tubbed 440 66 Coronet, supercharged, got enough money from selling that car to get my 70 challenger 440 6 pack 4spd) and yup there is instant response from the supercharger. but(in my opinion) it's 3 times as expensive as a DIY turbo setup. Twice as fiddly and a pain in the *** to look over when driving(hey I'm only 5'6" tall) even though they do look good parked at car shows. So if your going for bling, performance and a stiff neck trying to look around the darn thing along with a pocket full of money "go for it". I just like a different approach with reliability, a stock flat hood and performance without a stiff neck looking around the hood ornament on my budget.
 
lol, you are not disappointing me at all because i happen to be a professional engine builder and you obviously are not and it is not helpful for you to post questions on a forum then try to expouse knowledge that you dont have and discount the comments of others whom are far more experienced and knowledgeable than you are.

that being said, even you noticed that a supercharger gives instant power if set up properly which is why i suggested one . sure a turbo car will haul *** if you build it RIGHT and gear the crap out of it to reduce turbo lag and they can be fun . i have had a lot of turbo cars ad even had one on my 440 challenger convert because t came on there but i wouldnt have put it on.

Oh, and by the way, a 12 second car is pretty lame by todays standards but you just keep on thinking it's "fast", lol.
 
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66Dvert said:
I don't think that they(hardened seats) will be in there. When I go to the larger valve setup, I understand that hardened seats are only a couple thou deep and can get removed if you go to a larger valve which is what I am doing. When we induction(rocklinize) hardened the tooling we used at work they were Max .005-8 depth before you hit softer metal...
Click to expand...

The induction hardening goes deeper than that, but not sure how much. With the over sized valves you might be right to use the hardened seats.
 
As for the CR and boost, the fact that a car will run 12 seconds is not going to mean it will be 'snappy' on the street. That is the point that is being made; at the strip, you have already revved up and gotten the turbo spooled before ever dropping the hammer, so the boost and power is there. On the street, that is not going to be the case very often and the turbo lag is what if going to make it 'un-snappy'.

Having said that, there are things that can be done.
- Push the CR up in the low 8's IMHO; in my rally building engine experience, running in the 9 range and any boost at all in the 10+psi range requires some pretty good tuning; rally cars are now running 10+:1 SCR and gobs of boost, but they are all HIGHLY engineered with tons of $$ invested and special fuels, EFI of course, etc. I have rallied 14-15 psi boost on a true 8.2 SCR with just so-so tuning and premium. But I don't view the /6 bottom end to be particularly strong so personally would be cautious.
- Look long and hard at the turbos available and be ready to spend some extra for the right one. The spool up can be very greatly modified by the exhaust impeller design. My last Super 16G (on a Mitsu 2.6L) is already turning and 'burbling' at idle; the spool-up is a ton better than typical.

BTW, the published CR's are not accurate so don't assume that number is where you are starting.

BTW#2, add at least 2.5" or even 3" exhaust to your list to help the turbo.

Should be interesting.
 
nm9stheham said:
As for the CR and boost, the fact that a car will run 12 seconds is not going to mean it will be 'snappy' on the street. That is the point that is being made; at the strip, you have already revved up and gotten the turbo spooled before ever dropping the hammer, so the boost and power is there. On the street, that is not going to be the case very often and the turbo lag is what if going to make it 'un-snappy'.

Having said that, there are things that can be done.
- Push the CR up in the low 8's IMHO; in my rally building engine experience, running in the 9 range and any boost at all in the 10+psi range requires some pretty good tuning; rally cars are now running 10+:1 SCR and gobs of boost, but they are all HIGHLY engineered with tons of $$ invested and special fuels, EFI of course, etc. I have rallied 14-15 psi boost on a true 8.2 SCR with just so-so tuning and premium. But I don't view the /6 bottom end to be particularly strong so personally would be cautious.
- Look long and hard at the turbos available and be ready to spend some extra for the right one. The spool up can be very greatly modified by the exhaust impeller design. My last Super 16G (on a Mitsu 2.6L) is already turning and 'burbling' at idle; the spool-up is a ton better than typical.

BTW, the published CR's are not accurate so don't assume that number is where you are starting.

BTW#2, add at least 2.5" or even 3" exhaust to your list to help the turbo.

Should be interesting.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Snappy to me meant "Expressway" speeds and staying there or passing, which means the turbo should be spooled up a bit and not too "laggy". heck I'm not worried about off the line performance at all since it's a driver for pleasure. my original /6 was just too sluggish at highway speeds to be enjoyable, it got off the red light pretty good but just did not have the oomph at 55-70. I wanted a "top down cruising down the road and it'll wake up and pass what I need to but run all day" experience. (ya don't usually put power windos,seats and A/C on a drag car do ya?:))
I have just finished going to charlie_s place and talked to him about the setup I'm wanting. Some of my do's became don'ts and I have added to the list of needs and 2.5-3" is in the works after mock-up.
Yes, I'm going bigger valves. a bit of porting to smooth everything out (in the bowl area for sure) 1.44 and 1.70. after the head is back from the shop I'll take the block in and see where that falls in at for pistons. before any more work is done on the block I'll pop the head on it minus pistons and check for shrouding and where it needs to be worked on to clean it up. then I'll get the pistons , check how far it is in the hole and see if I can get the compression up to a good "turbo" compression since 9 to 1 does not seem to be where I want to go with the /6 at this time.
here is my figures
59cc heads
3.4 bore (as stock right now)
4.125 stroke
.165 in the hole (stock)
.040 head gasket crush (fel-pro measures off of old gasket from block)
my measurements using these numbers approx. come out to
7.85 and I'd like to move it up just a bit, but until I find out how the new pistons stack up I'm not getting anything cut until I have measured it.

Displacement = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Stroke x 16.387
Head Gasket space = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Gasket thickness x 16.387064
Deck Height space = (Bore ÷ 2)2 x 3.14 x Deck Height x 16.387064
Compressed Volume = Head Gasket space + Deck Height space +
Piston Top volume + Combustion chamber volume
Uncompressed Volume = Compressed Volume + Displacement
Compression Ratio = Uncompressed volume ÷ Compressed volume

I am about 9/10th of the way money wise to get the megasquirt II setup for the engine and needed cabling put on order.
now to get a solid manifold that I can use or make my own.
I have the AEM 304110 lsu4.9 wideband gauge and sensor, boost gauge , egt gauge and a 4.0 jeep,LS350, ford 302 throttle body. one of those might just work for me.
I have been in contact with Oregon cam grinding and after talking to Ken heard suggestion I'm going with the 819 grind.
"#819" 219/219 @ .050”, 264/264 adv(.014”), .437”/.437” lift, 110 sep (changed to 114 separation) and all new lifters
not quite as aggressive as I though I'd need but a "little" bit over a stock cam with a good idle. Cam goes out tomorrow (10-11-2016)
I'm still deciding on exactly which turbo to go for. open scroll Vs split scroll ect. I'm having trouble trying to read the compressor patterns and which one would be best for a mild 8-10 psi application I.E spooling fast and not running out of steam till 5k. Which does rules out the tiny china "tuner" turbo's on ebay. I would like to read the darn maps correctly. been googling everything I can about reading compressor maps. the more I learn the more questions I have %$^$%^,I seem to never get out of school!
 
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Which 'tiny turbos' are you talking about? Have you looked at the Mitsubishi series of turbos? Some of them look like a reasonable fit to the 225 at 5000 RPM for lower boosts. In fact, they can easily push past 8-10 psi on the 225 engine size. The reason I thought of them is because I use a 16G Super on my 2.6L rally engine, and with the right impeller blade, the dang thing is already burbling and turning at 800 RPM idle. Quick boost right off of idle; it is all in the impeller blade.

Are you planning on a boost bypass valve? If so, it makes it easier to make the boost come up early and them limit it to what you want.

Not ever being out of school is a good thing!
 
nm9stheham said:
Which 'tiny turbos' are you talking about? Have you looked at the Mitsubishi series of turbos? Some of them look like a reasonable fit to the 225 at 5000 RPM for lower boosts. In fact, they can easily push past 8-10 psi on the 225 engine size. The reason I thought of them is because I use a 16G Super on my 2.6L rally engine, and with the right impeller blade, the dang thing is already burbling and turning at 800 RPM idle. Quick boost right off of idle; it is all in the impeller blade.

Are you planning on a boost bypass valve? If so, it makes it easier to make the boost come up early and them limit it to what you want.

Not ever being out of school is a good thing!
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No I have not looked at the mitsubishi series. Have you seen a map of them?I am still trying to learn to read them right though. Yes I plan on using using a Tial adjustable blowoff or bypass valve(they are similar in usage are they not? and if not why?) I was looking at the hot.63 (is this too big for the 225?) cold side impeller.70 and trying to find a good map of the darn thing to keep me in the power range without running out of steam top end with an early start in spooling. All options for the turbo are open right now since I don't know enough to choose right now.

it seem that I'm in school more than out these days by trying to learn new stuff all the time.
 
Here are Mitsu and Garrett turbo maps galore....LOL. There are sets are in different flow formats (CFM, m^3/sec)
Stealth 316 - Turbocharger Compressor Flow Maps

(As you read this website, remember that the 3L V6 Mitsu engine being discussed uses TWO turbos so the flows are half what they would be for a single turbo application.)

I was looking at these last night for the 225 at the lower boosts; your 10 psi pressure ratio works out to around 1.7 BTW. I just looked a few over and it looks like one or more would map out well to those lower boost ranges and cfm's. You're roughly in the 260-290 cfm flow range unboosted at 5000 rpm depending on VE, and maybe around 300-350 cfm boosted/compressed flow at 10 psi (no intercooler). The 09G turbo is on the small side so would not get to that boost and flow at 5000 RPM. But it would have good boost at lower RPM's and would likely 'come on' pretty fast. It would be like what you might find on an older, simple production turbo'd car: not too likely or even possible to overboost at high RPM and blow things up.

The 13G looks like it would get closer to the flow at that boost; maybe a bit short but would 'self-limit' the flow/boost at 5000 RPM. It would have higher boost capability at lower RPM's. So a wastegate would be needed IMHO.

The 14G looks like would get you there for sure and you would have some capacity for higher RPM's too. (not sure that is all that useful.) You would have to limit the boost with a wastegate for sure. BTW this is the stock Mitsubishi Starion/Chrysler Conquest turbo for use on a 2.6L 4 cylinder. These engines had the wastegate set around 13-14 psi and used this (relatively) larger turbo on just 156 ci to be able to generate that boost level across a wide RPM range.

As for the valves, I was really meaning a wastegate, to control max boost. If you do that, then you can use a larger turbo and limit the higher boost capability to where you want.

The blow-off valve has a different function, to dump excess boost spikes when the throttle is closed rapidly while under boost; that prevents turbo stalling, keeps it spinning with the throttle closed for good response when you push on the throttle again, and helps prevent bearing damage. It is very useful if you are racing or rallying, or running the ridges hard, but perhaps less so on just straight line use.

Beyond the maps, which reflect just the basic turbo designs, I'll say again that a lot of the low RPM behavior is determined by the impeller wheel details; small tweaks and bends on tips and so forth can make a turbo really come on fast at lower flows. (As well as the cam.) That can make a larger turbo spool up readily at low RPM's similar to a smaller one. The Mitsu turbos have had a lot of development work and experimentation on them over the years for the Japanese cars, to get this type of response in special impellers, and so that can benefit other users.
 
Whooooeee that is a lot to absorb .. hmm so the 14g (hey I had a 86 conquest), it was a monster. I beat the hell outa that car and couldn't break it. I loved it till it got stolen$%#$ in Detroit and never found. ah back to topic. 14g map and spec's will fit into my power range plans and not choke around 5k. (good.) Any idea where I can get different impellers,wastegate and repair parts easily?
yes I'm going with a wastegate (adjustable if possible to sort of sneak up on 8-10psi) intercooler and adjustable BOV , I don't want to break my toys before I get a chance to beat on it a bit and then resume normal(ok not even close to normal but easier driving) driving pattern
you sure have given me a lot of info in laymans terms too! YAY, so even an old fart like me can understand it readily. yeah I read it a couple time just to make sure, but I probably didn't understand the mapping again.

hmm just checked on amazon and ebay for a14g there are a few but most are advertising the 16g what is the difference?
using your 1.7 and 290cfm the 14g shows on the right edge of the center "ish" island @74-76% and the 16g (small wheel) is really similar assuming I'm reading it find 1.7 line or place it should be. run it across to the 260-290 line and pick the point they intersect?
 
Well, it sounds like did not even have the intercooler in '86.... it just got better! You are right... it has been years since I looked and it appears the 14g's are no longer around. How things change!

The 16g's look to be still pretty common. Looking at the maps, they are not all that different. If you are going that way, then I can recommend the 16g Super for the low end spool up, which I what I have in my rally Starion. Here is a place that sells one with an 8-10 psi wastgate integrated. They also have Super 15G's. Later, you can put in a controlled, adjustable leak on the pressure line to the wastegate and raise the boost level.
Hahn Racecraft - Automotive Turbosystems

And here is a place that sold nice down pipes with O2 sensor bungs and other stuff: Top end Performance. They have been around for quite a while and are (were?) racers. It looks like they are selling T3/T4 conversions for the StarQuest engines now but they used to sell the Super 16G's. They have a lot of parts and pieces.
Top End Performance - Turbo System components. Turbos, Wastegates, BOV's - Performance Brands

BTW, have you been on www.slantsix.org to see what is cooking there?
 
66Dvert said:
using your 1.7 and 290cfm the 14g shows on the right edge of the center "ish" island @74-76% and the 16g (small wheel) is really similar assuming I'm reading it find 1.7 line or place it should be. run it across to the 260-290 line and pick the point they intersect?
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They best way I can tell you do this well and right is to look at the first link, and look how the family of engine flow curves (demand lines) are superimposed on the turbo maps. (Those are the multicolored straight lines at an angle.) Then follow that method. They author makes this statement: "Ideally, you want to select a compressor that has a flow map that covers all the engine demand lines up to the boost levels you are prepared to use. If significant portions of the flow map lie outside of the engine demand lines, the turbo may not be appropriate for the engine."

Read all of that several times and absorb it. I set up an Excel spreadsheet to help with these numbers. The demand lines are straight lines that are easy to figure and plot. The bottom of the line at PR=1.0 is simply the engine flow at normal pressure (0 psi boost) with the VE accounted for. In the case of the 225 at VE=1.00 at 1000 RPM, the flow is 65 CFM. At each RPM level, multiply 65 times the number of thousands of RPM's and then multiply by the estimate VE. So, for 2000 RPM and a VE of .90, the 0 psi boost flow is 65 x 2 x .90 = 117 cfm.

Once you make assumptions on the VE at each RPM level (that's the tricky part!) and plot the 0 psi boost points at 1000 RPM intervals, then simply draw lines up the map so that they intersect the PR=2.0 line at 2x the 0 psi boost CFM's. For example at 2000 RPM, that line would be at 117 CFM at the PR=1.0 line, and at 234 CFM where it crosses the PR=2.0 line.

This gives you an idea of how well the engine is going to 'stay in' the turbo across a broad range of RPM's and boosts. If the demand curves crowd off of the left side of the turbo map, then the turbo is big for the engine and will probably not respond well at lower RPM's. If the curves crowd off of the right side of the turbo map, then the turbo is small for the engine, and it will have lowered boost at higher RPM's but should come up on the turbo quickly at low RPM's.
 
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nm9stheham said:
Well, it sounds like did not even have the intercooler in '86.... it just got better! You are right... it has been years since I looked and it appears the 14g's are no longer around. How things change!
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it was harder to find the 14g vs the 16g

nm9stheham said:
The 16g's look to be still pretty common. Looking at the maps, they are not all that different. If you are going that way, then I can recommend the 16g Super for the low end spool up, which I what I have in my rally Starion. Here is a place that sells one with an 8-10 psi wastgate integrated. They also have Super 15G's. Later, you can put in a controlled, adjustable leak on the pressure line to the wastegate and raise the boost level.
Hahn Racecraft - Automotive Turbosystems
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I'll look into the 16g super and see whaer that puts me money wise and then start saving for other goodies.

nm9stheham said:
And here is a place that sold nice down pipes with O2 sensor bungs and other stuff: Top end Performance. They have been around for quite a while and are (were?) racers. It looks like they are selling T3/T4 conversions for the StarQuest engines now but they used to sell the Super 16G's. They have a lot of parts and pieces.
Top End Performance - Turbo System components. Turbos, Wastegates, BOV's - Performance Brands
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I've got dual manifolds made by "waggin" and I'll have to fab a 2into 1 pipe to get the O2 bung fit too but I'll be on their site checking things out for sure.

nm9stheham said:
BTW, have you been on www.slantsix.org to see what is cooking there?
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yeah I've been on the site and it's what got me started thinking about turbo VS N/A high compression engine. I've met charlie_S and sen his racecars (he got a nice manifold I'm interested in for the EFI setup) he helped with a lot of N/A and N2O info and good local suppliers that was questions in my head for the 383 "70" challenger a guy wants built his way.
 
OK, I have not really looked into other turbo's that are being used; I am just used to the Mitsu's. I might look into the T3/T4 setups. FWIW, I personally would not buy from eBay unless I know the sales outfit for sure.
 
BTW, I did not see oil pump on your list but I may have missed that. The oil pump gear is a critical part. Also, some cams' pump gears are known to have problems with the /6 pump gear; I cannot remember if Oregon is on the 'good' list or what. Since you are doing a serious application, I would encourage you to contact Doug Dutra (Doctor Dodge over on www.slantsix.org) and see if he will do a blueprinted oil pump for you. I had him build one for my '62 near stock rebuild, just for reliability and longevity. His price was reasonable.

BTW I see you are in Webster.... looks like an out of the way place; hopefully not too developed yet. North central FL is a good area.
 
nm9stheham said:
BTW, I did not see oil pump on your list but I may have missed that. The oil pump gear is a critical part. Also, some cams' pump gears are known to have problems with the /6 pump gear; I cannot remember if Oregon is on the 'good' list or what. Since you are doing a serious application, I would encourage you to contact Doug Dutra (Doctor Dodge over on www.slantsix.org) and see if he will do a blueprinted oil pump for you. I had him build one for my '62 near stock rebuild, just for reliability and longevity. His price was reasonable.

BTW I see you are in Webster.... looks like an out of the way place; hopefully not too developed yet. North central FL is a good area.
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I'm looking into a t3/t4 turbonetics (I'll see if I can get the map and read it anyway) comparable to the 16gsuper
I have an original 1 left (new)chrysler oil pump that I have had stashed for about 25 years from trenton engine when they were making them, bought 10 off a guy selling them in the parking lot for 15 bucks each in 1978, hopefully it is still good. since the other 9 were I'm hopeful. Oregon is regrinding my cam so the gear should be ok on it. I will need another one for the other engine though and I'll contact him for one.

Webster place is 2 3/4 acres is GOOD to me, I lived in a suburbs in Taylor Michigan(33 year). houses so close that I knew what the next door neighbors were having for dinner and all the arguments., Websters is in the sticks 15 minutes to anywhere pretty much sums it up. I feel I'm way to close to "The Villages" though since they are buying up everything they can and ruining everything natural.
 
OP I have owned and run more than a handful of 1G/2G DSM's and Evolutions over my last 14 years and have only recently converted over to classics with my 75 Swinger. I can give you an insane amount of information on all those size/style turbo chargers(13g/14b/T25/T28/s16g/B16G/E316g/18G/20G), what they came and which would be best for your goals. If your interested just shoot me a message.
 
YoungDart75 I'll have to finalize my block/head combo and static compression before I even think about the correct turbo. I'll be sure to pm you guys for info after I get the compression ration nailed down. Thanks

Just got the head back from the machine shop. 1.44 and 1.70 valves hardened exhaust and some small amount of porting started .030 off the head to even things up and it'll be CC'd this weekend. I'll do the rest by just smoothing in the bowls and rough spots. Block and crank just got dropped off for new cam bearings, boring to cleanup for new pistons and crank checked to see if it needs ground undersize. Cam is @ oregon grinders getting an #819 @ 114 separation for the turbo setup. I'm getting closer! where can I find a new heater hose nipple that goes into the head since mine is really nasty?
20161024_163207.jpg


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