Small block strokers

[WEBBY]

I'm sure Mike could put something else in your motor other than a roller cam.....And you would save some money.....But.....It won't make the Horsepower and torque that the roller will.....Mike puts a lot of impressive motors together and he talks to his customers and he answers e-mail questions very quickly.....I would say he is a straight shooter and a very honest person.....That is just my opinion Webby

 

[67 prostreet gt]

If I may I suggest talking to Ryan Johnson at Shady Dell speed shop in state college pa he built my 526 which is a 730 hp 702 tq big block and the 540 in my dads truck with make 1050 hp and 1050 tq both on pump gas. He specializes in small blocks he has a turbo small block making over 1200 hp and he does a lot of 440-482 small block stuff. 550hp is no challenge for him he may actually be able to build ya a 700 + hp small block for not much more than wat it cost to go 550 on pump gas and very street able

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67 prostreet gt, - Thanks for the recommendation. I wish you had sent me this sooner. I've already given a verbal commitment to MRL. But I did a quick search and found their website. http://www.shadydellspeedshop.com/index.htm - Not a lot of info there on the cost of buying a motor from them. But I'd have called and talked to them if I'd heard of them sooner.

I'm fairly confident that I'll be happy with MRL, but I was looking for as many options as I could find before I made my decision.

I really DO appreciate all of you FABO guys that offered me advice. Thanks-a-bunch!

I'm sorry my bad

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[Abodybomber]

He's damn good......

 

[Woods74]

I got scared off from the 904s after seeing pictures online of ones that had grenaded. But now that I've been looking online again, I'm seeing just as many catastrophic failures with the 727s. I guess if I'm really gonna worry, maybe I should invest in a blanket.

Best way to avoid this is to do burnouts in selected 2nd. Keep the shock away from the 1-2 shift. If you must do burnouts in '1' in the water box, shift to '2' before you hit dry pavement.

 

[Abodybomber]

best way to avoid this is to do burnouts in selected 2nd. Keep the shock away from the 1-2 shift. If you must do burnouts in '1' in the water box, shift to '2' before you hit dry pavement.

(smile...).

 

[airwoofer]

Looking at your car with the 27" tires I am confident that after getting tired of blowing the Street Ets all the time that you will slap on a pair of 28" 275/60 DRs on. They fill the wheel well perfectly.

That's gonna be a bad azz fish.

You have the fuel system to handle the engine?

 

[1967 'cuda]

Looking at your car with the 27" tires I am confident that after getting tired of blowing the Street Ets all the time that you will slap on a pair of 28" 275/60 DRs on. They fill the wheel well perfectly.

That's gonna be a bad azz fish.

You have the fuel system to handle the engine?

I've always described our cars as daily drivers, but they don't tend to get a lot of highway miles. I'm still wondering how many miles I'll get out of these tires myself.

Mike will be installing a big mechanical Carter pump on the motor that he said will supply plenty of fuel. I hadn't even thought about checking my fuel lines yet. I assume they're 5/16". Mike has claimed that some of the motors he's built have actually been more fuel efficient than stock motors. But with that 750 (vac. sec.) he's putting on, it might get thirsty.

 

[airwoofer]

You will need moar fuel line IMO but maybe not. The stock line isn't enough with a sucking fuel pump IMO. When you get the dyno sheet it will show you how many gallons per hour you are eating at full power. You could weld on a sump and put an elec pump on to push the fuel up front through the stock line and have the regulator up here near the carb. That is what my fish had. It worked at 500 HP. It will get AN-6 lines now with a pump and filter at the rear, drawing from a sump on a new Canadian tank.

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I am pulling a set of 13.5 wide ET streets to replace them with 315/60 DRs. Those ET Streets were worthless on the track and after seeing the car get loose like taking off on a gravel lot it isn't worth the risk.

 

[1967 'cuda]

You will need moar fuel line IMO. The stock line isn't enough with a sucking fuel pump. You could weld on a sump and put an elec pump on to push the fuel up front and have the regulator up here. That is what my fish had. It worked at 500 HP. It will get AN-6 lines now with a pump and filter at the rear, drawing from a sump on a new Canadian tank.

I am pulling a set of 13.5 wide ET streets to replace them with 315/60 DRs. Those ET Streets were worthless on the track and after seeing the car get loose like taking off on a gravel lot it isn't worth the risk.

Waiting on the build thread where he gets 550 HP outta a vac secondary 750 carb. Than again, I am also waiting to fire up my 416 with the solid cam.

I'm trying to avoid using an electric pump. I've always run them on my big blocks and with the exception of this last Roadrunner (that has a submerged pump inside the tank now) they've always been a bit noisy. I figure that if Chrysler could put two 4s and three 2s on 440 and Hemi engines with mechanical pumps, there must be a good chance I can still get enough gas to the single 750. But after you had questioned the fuel system, I realized that my lines are probably too small anyway.

I haven't had the car at a track with the M/Ts yet, so I had no clue how they'd perform. When I chose to put them on the car it was more in an effort to make the Barracuda 'look' like a drag car than to perform like one. But of course that was because I was running that 318. Let me know how you like the drag radials compared to the ETs on the street and on the track. If these M/Ts don't last for me, I'll be looking for something else.

We'll have to see what the dyno shows when he's done. After reading what some others sites have claimed to get out of their small block engines, Mike's claims don't sound that farfetched.

 

[mopar jimmie]

I got scared off from the 904s after seeing pictures online of ones that had grenaded. But now that I've been looking online again, I'm seeing just as many catastrophic failures with the 727s. I guess if I'm really gonna worry, maybe I should invest in a blanket.

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I saw a 727 grende like this at Atco raceway one nite, it was determined a clutch pack got stuck . The car actually had holes blown through the cowl and floor from pieces of the case

 

[airwoofer]

I already had M&H 275/60 DRs on the fish with the 416 (at 495 HP) and they work great. The ET Streets are on my 499 KB / B1 Demon and they are useless beyond 1/4 throttle. Didn't work on the track either but I may have not gotten them hot enough on the burnout.

Yeah, get the thing running, burn the 27s off and then you have an excuse to get 275/60s on. They look fantastic on a fish IMO.

 

[1967 'cuda]

I saw a 727 grende like this at Atco raceway one nite, it was determined a clutch pack got stuck . The car actually had holes blown through the cowl and floor from pieces of the case

I've had enough days that were 'messed up' without having something like this happen. Maybe I should rethink the 904.

 

[flyfish]

IMO, unless you do something stupid, you will be just fine with the 727. Sure your car would be a little quicker with the 904 (1-3 tenths depending on who you talk to), but if you already have the 727 with a converter I would just use it.

For what its worth, I have had multiple 727's in my Barracuda in the past 20 years...with everything from a mild 318's, nitrous inhaling 360's, to my current 410 stroker...I never had a 727 blow up or bend a sprag, even after I broke a u-joint (on the bottle) before I passed the 60' marker....my bolt in sprag was perfect. Take care of your transmission and it will take care of you. I would suggest putting a blanket on it though....just in case.

 

[Cuda68Scott]

I called ATK for more information and was sent to voicemail. After a day of waiting with no call back I went ahead and decided to pull the trigger with Mike at MRL. I do like the fact that he is one of the advertizing vendors on FABO. (I hadn't realized that until after speaking with him) So, 550 HP it is. After Mike gets it built and I get it installed, I'll post pics and probably track E.T.s.

550 HP sounds enticing and fun, something I may want to try someday. Will that engine run on pump gas? Also would that power level require torque boxes or frame connectors?

 

[BrianT]

550 HP sounds enticing and fun, something I may want to try someday. Will that engine run on pump gas? Also would that power level require torque boxes or frame connectors?

550 can be done on pump gas pretty easily with reworked aluminum heads. Not too many people add torque boxes, but everyone should be adding sub-frame connectors, even if you're running a stock motor. It made a world of difference in the way my car handled.

 

[CH3N02]

I called ATK for more information and was sent to voicemail. After a day of waiting with no call back I went ahead and decided to pull the trigger with Mike at MRL. I do like the fact that he is one of the advertizing vendors on FABO. (I hadn't realized that until after speaking with him) So, 550 HP it is. After Mike gets it built and I get it installed, I'll post pics and probably track E.T.s.

:supz::supz::supz::supz::supz::supz::supz:

 

[1967 'cuda]

550 can be done on pump gas pretty easily with reworked aluminum heads. Not too many people add torque boxes, but everyone should be adding sub-frame connectors, even if you're running a stock motor. It made a world of difference in the way my car handled.

Damn. Now I feel like I'm putting the cart before the horse. I will have to look into some subframe connectors. I wonder.... - Does the installation of frame connectors eliminate the need for torque boxes? Or can it be considered to be a superior solution to twisting than torque boxes? I think I'll post a new thread to find out what the answer is. I've bought subframe connectors for one of our other projects, but hadn't even considered welding in torque boxes.

 

[1967 'cuda]

550 HP sounds enticing and fun, something I may want to try someday. Will that engine run on pump gas? Also would that power level require torque boxes or frame connectors?

Mike is setting it up with a 10:1 compression ratio and says it'll be very pump gas friendly.

After reading the posts from you and BrianT, I'm definitely considering adding the frame connectors. It wasn't until a few weeks ago that I had seriously looked into doing a major horsepower increase. Now I'm going to have to probably consider a driveshaft loop too.

 

[1967 'cuda]

IMO, unless you do something stupid, you will be just fine with the 727. Sure your car would be a little quicker with the 904 (1-3 tenths depending on who you talk to), but if you already have the 727 with a converter I would just use it.

For what its worth, I have had multiple 727's in my Barracuda in the past 20 years...with everything from a mild 318's, nitrous inhaling 360's, to my current 410 stroker...I never had a 727 blow up or bend a sprag, even after I broke a u-joint (on the bottle) before I passed the 60' marker....my bolt in sprag was perfect. Take care of your transmission and it will take care of you. I would suggest putting a blanket on it though....just in case.

I hate to give up on the 727 after trekking all the way down to Texas to get it. I guess I do know a lot of guys running the 727s without incident. But after seeing as much advice as I have about the 904s, I will no doubt be going that route instead on any new projects.

I saw someone posted a TCI 727 transmission shield for sale on FABO. I'm wondering if they cause any clearance issues with the transmission tunnel. I don't want to hear it thumping against the floor.

 

[Cuda68Scott]

I will be following your engine install with great interest, would you please tell MRL to hurry up! 550hp= :burnout::burnout:

 

[1967 'cuda]

I will be following your engine install with great interest, would you please tell MRL to hurry up! 550hp= :burnout::burnout:

I struggle to keep myself from calling Mike like a 6 year old in the back seat. "Are we there yet?" But I suppose that every minute I spend on the phone with him is a minute less he has to spend in the shop. I am going to ask him if it is possible for him to take pictures of the assembly though.

 

[Abodybomber]

Frame connectors,of course. I wouldn't worry about torque boxes,unless running a trans brake/ or running a 4 speed stick. One of the cars I was involved with.: Built 340 roller mill:002,003 springs,allcthe way through A thight 4200 Continental converter/4:88's. Went 11:50's ,maxed. Hitting a 250 plate tuned right ,same combo high nines. The torque boxes ,were fine. My..02

 

[1967 'cuda]

Frame connectors,of course. I wouldn't worry about torque boxes,unless running a trans brake/ or running a 4 speed stick. One of the cars I was involved with.: Built 340 roller mill:002,003 springs,allcthe way through A thight 4200 Continental converter/4:88's. Went 11:50's ,maxed. Hitting a 250 plate tuned right ,same combo high nines. The torque boxes ,were fine. My..02

So if I'm understanding you correctly, you believe the subframe connectors helped to lower your E.T.s? - That'd be cool. - And another added incentive to install them.

 

[Bad Sport]

Thanks, mderoy340 - I took your advice and did call MRL. After talking with Mike, I was pretty impressed by what all he had to say. The HP he is talking is closer to the 550 range. - Which is great! But he's also talking close to $3000 more than I'd like to spend. But he's also talking about a better build that includes a roller cam and other higher grade components. I'm still on the fence. I really didn't want to spend that much. I've either got to convince myself to bite the bullet on it or keep looking for a less expensive option.

You get what you pay for.

 

[Bad Sport]

Mike is setting it up with a 10:1 compression ratio and says it'll be very pump gas friendly.

After reading the posts from you and BrianT, I'm definitely considering adding the frame connectors. It wasn't until a few weeks ago that I had seriously looked into doing a major horsepower increase. Now I'm going to have to probably consider a driveshaft loop too.

Yes and yes!