Small block strokers

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Can,t Mike from MRL build you something a little milder than 550hp??I,m sure Mike could build you a 360 with some good heads and go fast parts in the 450hp range,for cheaper than a stroker cost.Just a thought.:D
 
1967 'cuda said:
Ya, I realize that the Dana was going overboard, but it was my cheapest route to a 4.10 posi to replace my noisy 7&1/4. - Plus it gets the car a little closer to resembling a factory Hemi Barracuda. My first choice would have been an 8&3/4 but I didn't want to spend what people were asking for them. Most that I'd found were either single tracs, needing rebuilt, needing narrowed, or a gear change. The Dana cost me $300 before I had it narrowed and disc brakes added. I figured I'd have spent more on an 8&3/4 to start with and still had the same expenses narrowing it and changing brakes. - Plus I would most likely have had to shell out for gears.

The extra horses it takes to drive that Dana shouldn't kill it for the street.
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Very good point about A-body 8 3/4 rear end pricing. Sellers are pricing those to the point where brand new large bolt Dana rears are near viable options.

Sure the Dana is overkill. But by the time you add all the goodies to a core A-body 8 3/4 the initial core price can kill you.
 
autoxcuda said:
Very good point about A-body 8 3/4 rear end pricing. Sellers are pricing those to the point where brand new large bolt Dana rears are near viable options.

Sure the Dana is overkill. But by the time you add all the goodies to a core A-body 8 3/4 the initial core price can kill you.
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I think it's partly a matter of supply and demand. There seems to be a lot of folks looking to upgrade A bodies to an 8&3/4. The B body Dana 60s are crazy high priced too because B body owners like them as an upgrade.

Those old pickup truck Dana's can be had at reasonable costs right now. I know it's not real cheap to buy the axle tube ends, new axles, and spring pads. And I realize that converting to rear discs is an option some folks wouldn't spend money on, but the same work done to an 8&3/4 would cost the same. - And the initial price is often higher.

I couldn't justify putting bucks into the 7&1/4 unless I was doing a true restoration. By the way, autoxcuda, how'd those tail lights work out for you?
 
pettybludart said:
Can,t Mike from MRL build you something a little milder than 550hp??I,m sure Mike could build you a 360 with some good heads and go fast parts in the 450hp range,for cheaper than a stroker cost.Just a thought.:D
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I asked him about ways to cut down the cost. There were a few parts he was willing to downgrade such as the oil pan and camshaft, but it would only have knocked a few hundred off the cost. Other than trying to save a bit more $$$ by using my own ignition setup, carb, and intake there wasn't much he could do. And even then, I'd have to send him my parts first because he said they dyno every engine they build and he'd need them to complete the build.

He seems like he must take great pride in his work and does not want to cut corners. I'm really cringing at the thought of spending that much, but right now he sounds like he might be one of the best at building what I'm looking for. I'm still hoping to hear less expensive advice.
 
1967 'cuda said:
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I couldn't justify putting bucks into the 7&1/4 unless I was doing a true restoration. By the way, autoxcuda, how'd those tail lights work out for you?
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Awesome, thanks. Polished up my nice housings for them. Now need to repaint the black pinstripe and silver innards. After that straightening, polishing, and painting the trunk trims....
 
autoxcuda said:
Awesome, thanks. Polished up my nice housings for them. Now need to repaint the black pinstripe and silver innards. After that straightening, polishing, and painting the trunk trims....
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Glad to hear it. I bought black 3M pinstripe tape to detail out my grill. It seemed like the best way to get straight even width lines. You'll have to update your Member Photo Gallery.
 
pettybludart said:
Can,t Mike from MRL build you something a little milder than 550hp??I,m sure Mike could build you a 360 with some good heads and go fast parts in the 450hp range,for cheaper than a stroker cost.Just a thought.:D
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What's nice about a stroker is you can get the performance out of a tamer more streetable motor. And easier on valvetrain. And they soak up cam.

I put in a Scat balanced rotating assembly from Brian at IMM Engines. Measured up on the money when double check everything.
 
autoxcuda said:
What's nice about a stroker is you can get the performance out of a tamer more streetable motor. And easier on valvetrain. And they soak up cam.

I put in a Scat balanced rotating assembly from Brian at IMM Engines. Measured up on the money when double check everything.
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Which stroker combo did you go with? A 318/392? 360/408? 340/416?
 
I just ordered everything but the block from Hughes engines for a 408, CNC Super Prepped Eddie heads with stage 1 porting, deep ported AirGap Intake kit, Big Gulp 1000cfm throttle body, matched hyd roller cam and valve train, 10 to 1 stroker kit, all the hardware including studs and headbolts plus some misc stuff.

I'm going to pick up a seasoned 5.9 Magnum block from pick & pull, and have a local machine shop prepare it to Hughes specs. It's an EFI build for my 68 a-body. The total cost for what should crest the 500+ hp mark is under $8k. I already get unlimited SCT tuner reflashed from Sean aka Hemi Fever to dial it in.

I'll be bolting it up to an Extreme Automatics Stage 2 200R4 with a custom built Precision Engineering 3000 stall, billet 3-clutch lock-up torque converter with a Reid Racing bellhousing. No Wilcap adapters needed. I'm probably going to change my gears from 3.23's to 3.70's too. The car weighs about 3000 lbs, so this should wake it right up and make it fun for those trips to LA for Spring Fling.
 
Good machining costs money. As does dyno time especially when you don't own one. However, you should be able to achieve your goals without dropping $9K, even with Mike building it. Ask him to do something lower budget than his "550hp recipe" deal. There are many decent shops, and probably something closer, and plenty of decent "power recipes" around. You should be able to get something under $6K with decent parts in it.
In regard to the other link - I'm not familiar with the site but the posts lead me to believe they have their heads up their asses. A little knowledge is a bad thing...
 
ir3333 said:
what is the difference in weight between an 8 3/4 and a Dana
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After reading your post, I was curious also. So I tried to find out. Apparently there is no single answer. Variables such as which brakes are used, which style posi unit you've got (or spool), and even which housing you've got each go into determining the weight. The general consensus from what I've read is that the Dana will likely be 30 to 60 pounds heavier than the 8&3/4. But I've also read that the Dana is supposed to be a more efficient design that is supposed to negate the added weight. I found this thread on Moparts where it's being discussed:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...Main=6826153&Words=+OA5599&topic=&Search=true
 
1967 'cuda said:
So you would recommend Indy. Thanks.
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Let me counter with a minus 10 recs for Indy. You will regret doing bidness with them. 2nd the rec for MRL. If you are not in a hurry you will find deals on strokers that are well built and ready to drop in.

Do not do a burnout in 1st with a 727!!! You can start in 1st but short shift to 2nd as soon as the tires break loose.
 
moper said:
Good machining costs money. As does dyno time especially when you don't own one. However, you should be able to achieve your goals without dropping $9K, even with Mike building it. Ask him to do something lower budget than his "550hp recipe" deal. There are many decent shops, and probably something closer, and plenty of decent "power recipes" around. You should be able to get something under $6K with decent parts in it.
In regard to the other link - I'm not familiar with the site but the posts lead me to believe they have their heads up their asses. A little knowledge is a bad thing...
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I really thought my goal of finding a drop in crate stroker for between 5K and 6K was reasonable. But as you've stated good machining and dyno time is expensive. - And I'm sure that all shops are not the same. There have always been those guys out there that are consistently much quicker at the track. - Most of whom seem to have put a gazillion bucks into their motors.

I hope I haven't given folks the impression that Mike is overpriced. I assume you're getting a great motor when you do business with him. I just don't know if I can justify spending that much when I see a 426 Hemi (incomplete) selling for 6K here on FABO.

550 HP is way more power than I'd have expected to be able to pull out of a streetable LA engine. The thought of it makes me damn near giddy. - Still, I'm hoping for more info on other options.
 
1967 'cuda said:
340Fastback, I haven't talked to Indy yet. What types of issues have you heard about?
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I have made the mistake of buying a block and rotating assy from Indy. They do not deliver what they have charged you for and then they lie and deny when you call them about the problem. They get your money and you are stuck. Avoid!

And that is a sweet Dana. Would look under my 68 fish with my 416/904.

That 550 HP stroker Mike is describing sounds like the blue motor he posted here about a couple of years ago. I was so impressed with the power I bought a set of heads, his lifters, and Hughes 1.6 rockers as well as the solid Lunait cam he used to upgrade my pump gas comp 292H/ported Eddy head 416. Still have not had it in a car but it is ready with a 11" PTC converter and fresh 904 (with kickdown on a VB that allows automatic or manual shifting).

Here it is: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=189967
 
As for the hydraulic vs solid cam, that 292H Comp was a pretty good running cam in my 416 and it would turn 7K easily. That motor at 10-1 made 495 HP. I never touched it except for oil changes and beat the crap outta it for a season. The motor was built, dyno's then sat for 3 years with the rockers on tight and a few lifters collapsed. Instead of new lifters I just replaced the cam with that solid Lunati. $4k for 50 HP but I liked the power curve Mike had on the little blue monster.
 
airwoofer said:
Let me counter with a minus 10 recs for Indy. You will regret doing bidness with them. 2nd the rec for MRL. If you are not in a hurry you will find deals on strokers that are well built and ready to drop in.

Do not do a burnout in 2nd with a 727. You can start in 1st but short shift to 2nd as soon as the tires break loose.
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Thanks for the advice airwoofer. I used to do a bit of bracket racing in street tires with my '70 Roadrunner back in the mid-seventies. So if I'm able to hit the track this year I'll be a newbie again.

The only research I've done on Indy so far was to look at their short block price list. After seeing 2 negative responses about them and (as yet) nothing positive, I'm seeing a trend. And after seeing your positive recommendation for MRL, it's making it really hard to rule them out (despite the cost).

I appreciate you guys taking the time to respond. Otherwise I'd feel like I was stumbling around in the dark trying to decide on direction.
 
airwoofer said:
I have made the mistake of buying a block and rotating assy from Indy. They do not deliver what they have charged you for and then they lie and deny when you call them about the problem. They get your money and you are stuck. Avoid!

And that is a sweet Dana. Would look under my 68 fish with my 416/904.

That 550 HP stroker Mike is describing sounds like the blue motor he posted here about a couple of years ago. I was so impressed with the power I bought a set of heads, his lifters, and Hughes 1.6 rockers as well as the solid Lunait cam he used to upgrade my pump gas comp 292H/ported Eddy head 416. Still have not had it in a car but it is ready with a 11" PTC converter and fresh 904 (with kickdown on a VB that allows automatic or manual shifting).

Here it is: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=189967
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Damn you're making it awfully hard not to choose MRL. His HP numbers keep climbing as he builds more motors and his prices have actually dropped from what they used to be.
 
Daily driver?

IMO, you should stick with your initial range of 450hp. It's not hard to get with a stroked SB. It will run all day long without much issue. When you start making more power, things get finicky, especially when pushing the envelope. you can get where you want to go with a set of stock iron heads with a little work done to them.

You want a pretty nice build that runs great. Check this one out that Brian at IMM built. 408, ede heads, voodoo 268, air gap. The owner says it runs 7.70's at 91 in a 3500# Dart. I think they are a bit soft for et/MPH, bad converter, but the guy drives it all the time.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=6780602

You could step up the cam to get some more rumble. Just whatever you are looking for. Want it to be a decent daily driver or a teeth rattling car. I have a teeth rattler in my Aspen and love driving the car, except for the fricken mopar 508 camshaft. I'd roll that car everyday except for the idle/manners that POS cam has. My Dart has a 528 mechanical and it's light years better to drive than that 508 "junk"stick. I tend to tolerate some pretty aggressive cams in a street car, not that one...

Don't get sucked into the dyno numbers, it's in the car that counts.
 
One more thing... You should be able to fit 275/60-15 DRs under the fish fenders on an 8" wheel. I have the SBP 8 3/4 in my fish using Wheel Vintique rallys and the combo looks fantastic IMO. Fronts are 14" on drums, so far. Great stance. Those wheels are heavy BTW.

BTW, crackedback has a MP 508 and that Comp 292H is about the same cam, I think. To each their own I suppose cause I loved the idle, power (cam came on at 2500 with a single plane intake which was where the vert started working solid), and sound. My car at 3050# and a 2500 converter and 3.91 gears went 7.20 at 98.
 
..too bad there is no experience yet with that ATK 408.
Sounds decent,2 year unlimited mileage warranty and great price ....5499.00
 
airwoofer said:
One more thing... You should be able to fit 275/60-15 DRs under the fish fenders on an 8" wheel. I have the SBP 8 3/4 in my fish using Wheel Vintique rallys and the combo looks fantastic IMO. Fronts are 14" on drums, so far. Great stance. Those wheels are heavy BTW.

BTW, crackedback has a MP 508 and that Comp 292H is about the same cam, I think. To each their own I suppose cause I loved the idle, power (cam came on at 2500 with a single plane intake which was where the vert started working solid), and sound. My car at 3050# and a 2500 converter and 3.91 gears went 7.20 at 98.
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I've already got a pair of M/T 27X10.5X15s on the back mounted on WELD Rodlites. When I had the Dana narrowed, I shrunk the width down a little from what the 7&1/4 was. -Just to make sure the tires centered in the wheel wells.
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ir3333 said:
..too bad there is no experience yet with that ATK 408.
Sounds decent,2 year unlimited mileage warranty and great price ....5499.00
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I agree. I was sure hoping someone knew more about it. The price and the guarantee sound great.
 
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