So you want 2 go Big block...Read this first!

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DemonDave said:
Call me a liar if you wish but I just did the swap not 2 months ago so I know what I'm talking about. I actually think a /6 to V8 swap would be more costly since you definiately have to change front brakes and rear axle. Many SB cars came with front disk brakes and some even came with 8 3/4" axles from the factory which would save some coin when going from SB to BB.

Fresh 360 engine $1000 ( if you used a $1000 SM block...than I would say a built BB with simular parts would cost about $2000=$1000 more to my first quote)
Rebuilt 727 w/ Cheetah valve body $800 ( ithink we can agree that my tranny sugestion is off by another 300 at least)
727 Torque convertor (3500 stall) $500 Didn't inc;lude this on my BB build list so I will add it.
Schumacher conversion mounts $200 You paid too much, I thought they were cheaper. could be wrong.
A-body 8 3/4 axle with pig $500
All new brakes for axle $120
Used driveshaft from friend $50
New u-joints for driveshaft $20 I will add that $20
Rebuilt distributor for 360 $60 Lets add that too $60
Exhaust manifolds from friend $40 Can't by big block manifolds that cheap
Full exhaust $840 You paid alot, but prob got better exhaust than I am quoting...so lets add another $500 to my first exhaust quote to catch up to your job.
A-body chrome exhaust tips $40 (a deal!) I won't include that.
Radiator $300 You don't NEED an aluminum with a small bloc. but is a good idea if you have the $$ you can get a stock one new for under $200
Rad and heater hoses $40 This was part of my $500 nicle and dime stuff.
Spark plugs/wires $40 This was part of the $500 nickel and dime stuff.
Aux. tranny cooler $75 I won't count it...but its a good idea for Big block build too.
Fuel pump $30 i would buy electric. but I will include the $30 to catch up to your build costs.
Power steering pump pressure line $10 (used) Nickel and dime stuff
Edelbrock Performer carb $300 I thought this would be a part of the $1000 SB...so I will add this too
Edelbrock carb linkage adapter $20 ( nickel and dime thing
Mopar Performance throttle cable for V8 $30 I'll add this
Dual snorkel air cleaner assembly $40 (another deal!)Not going to count this.
5 bladed clutch fan $40 (from friend) not going to count this

Total so far - $5095 and I haven't included cost of fluids, hardware or my labour.

If I had to do it again (or give advice to anyone), I'd start with a 318 car anyday. The parts required to convert a /6 car are many and are getting hard to find. Just finding a pulley set for the 360 was a pain as the junkyards in this area have nothing older than 1990 anymore so all of the small blocks in them have massive engine accessory brackets and multi-groove pulleys. It's tough to find single or dual groove pulleys without buying new and paying through the nose.

So believe what you want, converting any car to a different drivetrain is the short road to bankruptcy these days, small block or big block.
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Hold up...Iam not calling you a lliar. I called you on it cause I wanted to see how it costs the same. There are alot of parts on your list that I didn't include on my list

So if I add all the stuff (blue typing above)you put on your car onto a BB build the New total would cost...........$2741(your extra goodies that I didn't have in my first quote+ $4760 ( my original quote) = $7500 for a simular BB build. thats $2500 more than your SB build.

which can make or brake some people. Thats what I mean by comparing apples and oranges. you are comparing Your build of a High performanse SB, to almost a bare bones BB build. This would be a more accurate comparison.

I hate it when people Say MY LABOUR!. Its a hobby, its not a job. OIf you go fishing, or out on a Boat, to you keep track of time, and think of it as labour? If building cars isn't a passion, and you are always thinking about labor costs, think about fetting a new hobby, cause your never ever guna get that labour back.

Phil

PS i said call your Bluff, cause I was trying to be funny. When you play poker, and someone calls you on your hand, do you throw your cards on the table and shout out "are you calling me a liar" and then leave? its just a saying...relax..I called you on it. you are right, your costs were close to the same...but your build was completly different. Do you see my point now?
 
dusterny said:
I agree with DemonDave you need 5-6k ready just in case you need it. You can put your ear to the ground and start looking for parts. All the deals you need won't happen as you need the parts. Then once car is torn apart you will go upper and lower ball joints ,tierod ends, bushings,bb t-bars list will go on and on. If you really need a part you will pay the long dollar for it or wait and the car sits.Things not on your list to start with. Just like Rumble said when done figure on the new car.
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You do not NEED that much for a small block...my first post at the top Is what you NEED for a BB build. that is my point.

Phil
 
Heres my last small block build. I got some screaming deals

500hp 340 $2500
built 904 and converter $500
TTI headers $700
Trans Dapt mount kit $65
Drive shaft $50
Torque Tech 3" exhaust kit $500

Thats as far as I got before selling the car. I was way over $4000 with all the small parts not including the price for the car.

If your starting from scratch it doesnt cost anymore to go with the big block.

I stick to small block pretty much because I know my way around them better and have some parts laying around.
 
mrtires24 said:
You do not NEED that much for a small block...my first post at the top Is what you NEED for a BB build. that is my point.

Phil
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what are you starting with? a 6 cyl. car or a small block car? if your starting with a 6cly. car then i'm telling you its damn close in price because the big block and small block swap need to basically have the same things done.

as far as the price of the motor goes, what ya use will make a big difference in price also. on th big block side a 440 gets top dollar in this area. a 383 or 400 an be had cheaper then the 440. with small blocks a 340 will fetch top dollar and a 318 or 360 can usually be bought alot cheaper.
 
abodyjoe said:
$500-$2000 for big block engine ( $500 for a barely running stock 2 brl $2000 for a rebuilt with 4 brl,and other goodies) Your not guna want a 2 brl intake on it anyways, so even a stock motor and a purchase of a 4 brl intack and carb to bolt on will still cost around $1000 small blocks aren't too much cheaper. there are deals out there for any motor though.


$180 for schumacker motor mounts same if your going to a small block using a 6 cyl. k-frame.,

$200 for headers, or exhaust manifolds that price is way too low.

$230 for 3 inch exhaust and muflers seems awlful cheap to me. is needed with small block or big block. and does your combo really need 3" ??

$350 for auto tranny and drive shaft shortening ok price could be close. but that sure isn't a rebuilt trans

$1700-$2500 for big block bell housing, A body tranny, Clutch, Clutch linkage, and shifter, and shifter linkage ok, i never priced that stuff, but small block wouldn't be any cheaper i wouldn't think.

$300 for aluminum rad not really needed. but if your going from a 6cyl then a small block is gonna need a rad also.


$500 for Disc brake conversion to do it right that sounds on the cheaper side. again you would want disc brakes even with a small block.

$1000 for 8 3/4 rear end would want a 8 3/4 even with a small block

$500 for nickel and dimeing stuff ( filters, hoses, oil, spark pugs/wires, other fluids etc etc) same for whatever motor you put in it.


basically it only cost a minimal more to do a big block in an abody over a small block. now if you start with a small block car you can definatley save with not needing mounts and stuff like that but all in all they are real close to the same price if starting with a 6 cyl. car.



are there exceptions to every rule? sure there is. but it comes down to like adam says. if your gonna do it right its gonna cost ya.

hell i probably have close to $1100 into putting my tempory used engine in my dart including buying the motor and trans a few years ago. i reused my intake,carb,headders,water pump, dizzy and wires, rad, and trans. had a friend give me a new rebuilt stock converter and put new hoses, gaskets,timing chain and oil pump on the motor. those lil things add up fast.
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Where I am, you can't find a 440 for a rebuild for under $500. You might get a runner for $1000, but you will have to change the intake to 4 brl, and get a carb, and you might have to track down brackets too. you can get a complete one for $1500, and with better pats for $2000 and up

You can get a running 2 brl 360 for $300 here, and a built one for $500-$1000. there is a big difference in prices here.

I think we can all agree that if you want to use Better exhaust parts it will cost more...but you CAN do it for the prices mentioned above.

I'm not an auto guy, so my auto trans price is prob a bit off. all my cars are 4 spds.

You have to buy BB specific 4 spd parts, but SB 4 spd parts are plenty. ( talking about clutch linkage. but other than that, price are some what simular. But we are compareing AUTO's to Auto's right now.

I would say an aluminum Rad is NEEDED for BB build. You won't over heat. You can buy a used SB rad for $40, or get a brand new SB rad for $180. ( that is for a pretty cheap aluminum rad. most are more.

You don't need discs for SB. Though I highly recomend it reguardless of your build, I think it is mpore important for a BB build than a SB build. lots of cars cam stock wit SB and manula 4 wheel drums.

you may want a 8 3/4 rear for a SB, but if you are just going to through in a $500 SB engine, you can get away without for a long while. but any BB will need a stronger diff. difference between needs and wants

the $500 nickel and dime stuff is different if you compar my cheaper SB build and the BB build because you do not have to change the brakes or diff with my SB build. and I think the $500 nickel and dime stuff is loww too for the BB build

you don't need 3 inch, but for $50 ,more, why not if you are doing a BB. You may rebuild the 440 in the future, and than want bigger exhaust...just do it now. you can handle 2.5 with a SB for a LONG time.

I still disagree in a big way that they costs are the same, or minimally different. if you compare two simular bare bones builds...one BB, and one SB, you will NEED alot more extra things with a BB, that a SB won't need

does anyone see where I am coming from?

Phil
 
abodyjoe said:
what are you starting with? a 6 cyl. car or a small block car? if your starting with a 6cly. car then i'm telling you its damn close in price because the big block and small block swap need to basically have the same things done.

as far as the price of the motor goes, what ya use will make a big difference in price also. on th big block side a 440 gets top dollar in this area. a 383 or 400 an be had cheaper then the 440. with small blocks a 340 will fetch top dollar and a 318 or 360 can usually be bought alot cheaper.
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Around my neck of the woods, 440's aren't that hard to come by but if you want a 340, you're going to pay a good buck even for one that needs a total rebuild. I'd go out on a limb and say that a performance 340 build could cost more than a comparable RB motor.
 
AdamR said:
Heres my last small block build. I got some screaming deals

500hp 340 $2500
built 904 and converter $500
TTI headers $700
Trans Dapt mount kit $65
Drive shaft $50
Torque Tech 3" exhaust kit $500

Thats as far as I got before selling the car. I was way over $4000 with all the small parts not including the price for the car.

If your starting from scratch it doesnt cost anymore to go with the big block.

I stick to small block pretty much because I know my way around them better and have some parts laying around.
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but adam, your comparing a REALLY built SB to a bare bones BB build, that same thing but BB would cost
your engine is $1500 more than my BB op top, you exhaust is $250 more, your headers are $500 more, your tranny is $300 more. $2550 more

add it to the big block build... over $7300!!! I am just asking to compare like builds to like builds. no comparison if you do a bare bones build
 
I dont know about you but I wouldnt want to try and stop even a 350hp small block with 9" drum brakes. But I do know someone with a 12second B body with drums still. Yup, Its a 440

If I can cool a 11:1 compression 340 with a stock 22" radiator you can cool a big block with one.

a 7-1/4 rear will blow up behind a stock slant 6 if you beat on it never mind a 340 or 360 with a few mods, 8-1/4s are good for around 400hp, just dont launch it with slicks. The 8-3/4 will start breaking teeth of the ring gear eventaully, Ive seen it happen with 12 second small block stick cars

Summit Racing has an exhaust kit for $200 in 2 or 3" size. Same price for either.

I dont know the cost of Big block 4 speed parts but I do know clutches, shifter, flywheels and Saftey Bell housing all cost the same big or small block.

You still didnt say if you started with a slant 6 or a small block car ? Big difference there.
 
abodyjoe said:
what are you starting with? a 6 cyl. car or a small block car? if your starting with a 6cly. car then i'm telling you its damn close in price because the big block and small block swap need to basically have the same things done.

as far as the price of the motor goes, what ya use will make a big difference in price also. on th big block side a 440 gets top dollar in this area. a 383 or 400 an be had cheaper then the 440. with small blocks a 340 will fetch top dollar and a 318 or 360 can usually be bought alot cheaper.
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a /6 to SB
compared to...
any A body to BB

I really don't understand how anyone else isn't understand this

and I agree. 340's are high dollar items....but I am comparing Simular builds to simular builds
 
does anyone see where I am coming from?
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no because you are wrong.

your comparing a 440 to a 360 in prce. you should be comparing it to a 340 and the price will be close.


and i beg to differ on the disc brakes. if you ask me you NEED them even with a 6 cyl. either way a small block they are necessary in my book. techanially they are optional i guess on any build. hell there was a hemi duster that was posted here that was still running drum brakes. would i want to do that? hell no but that guy did and did not destroy his car.

alumn rad is not needed. i have built a number of big block darts and valiants over the years and never used an alumn rad. even if you want an alumn rad you can get them from summit for $189. they may have gone up some since i bought mine but they didn't double.

as far as the rear goes.. you don't really NEED a 8 3/4 for either. but i want one in a small block or a big block car. at the very least you need a 8 1/4.

remember we are talking about doing either swap the right way. anyone can throw stuff together from a junk yard cheap. but its not always right. i've done them both and they are really close in price. the big block difference is mostley in the headders depending what you use. everything else is close.
 
mrtires24 said:
but adam, your comparing a REALLY built SB to a bare bones BB build, that same thing but BB would cost
your engine is $1500 more than my BB op top, you exhaust is $250 more, your headers are $500 more, your tranny is $300 more. $2550 more

add it to the big block build... over $7300!!! I am just asking to compare like builds to like builds. no comparison if you do a bare bones build
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A running 340 is going to cost you at least $1000, You wont find one cheaper then that. I havent seen a running 360 in my area for less then $500.
 
why is everyone saying a built 340.

or 400 or 500 hp SB.

BARE BONES BUILD PEOPLE!!!!!!!!
 
mrtires24 said:
a /6 to SB
compared to...
any A body to BB

I really don't understand how anyone else isn't understand this

and I agree. 340's are high dollar items....but I am comparing Simular builds to simular builds
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but your talking about the expensive big block compared to the cheaper small block. if your going 440 then compare it to a 340. if your gonna use a 360 for the argument then use a 383 or 400.
 
AdamR said:
If you start with a V8 car chances are it will have an 8-3/4 in it so you can scratch that off your list.
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how many 318's have you seen come with a 8 3/4??????

and if you have a 340 car, why would you think of putting a 440 in it??????
 
mrtires24 said:
how many 318's have you seen come with a 8 3/4??????

and if you have a 340 car, why would you think of putting a 440 in it??????
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i've seen a few slant 6 cars with a 8 3/4 , disc brakes and a sway bar in them stock. infact i ave one in the yard that i paid $500 for.
 
abodyjoe said:
i've seen a few slant 6 cars with a 8 3/4 , disc brakes and a sway bar in them stock. infact i ave one in the yard that i paid $500 for.
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come on, those are rare. Would you sell it for $500?

we are talking A bodies right?

I have not seen a 318 car with an 8 3/4 stock in it yet. I beleive they are out there...you could get anything.

{Phil
 
mrtires24 said:
how many 318's have you seen come with a 8 3/4??????

and if you have a 340 car, why would you think of putting a 440 in it??????
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Lots of 318 cars came with 8-3/4. My Dart for one, My 67 Barracuda had a 273 and an 8-3/4.

I agree with Joe. You can save money by using a 383 just like I could have saved money by using a 360.

If I was going to go bare bones big block I would use a 383, Hedmen B body headers and a 727.

Figure a running 383 $500
Big block 727 and stock converter $500
Headers $175
exhaust $200

Everything else is the same regardless of what motor is in the car.
 
abodyjoe said:
but your talking about the expensive big block compared to the cheaper small block. if your going 440 then compare it to a 340. if your gonna use a 360 for the argument then use a 383 or 400.
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no I am not...SIMULAR Build

a SB block for rebuild can be bought for $100-200
BB same thing can be bought for $400-$600

a SB runner puffing blue 2 brl $300-$400
a BB runner puffing blue 2 brl $700- $1000

a good runner SB $500 -$800
a good runner BB $1000-$1500

a built SB $1250 $2500
a built BB $1700- $4000

I AM NOT TALKING 340's they are in a class of there own. I have never been talking about 340's
 
mrtires24 said:
come on, those are rare. Would you sell it for $500?

we are talking A bodies right?

I have not seen a 318 car with an 8 3/4 stock in it yet. I beleive they are out there...you could get anything.

{Phil
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not as rare as you think.. seen quite a few of them. must have been a option package or something. never really cared to look into it.. mine is a 71 dart. no i will not sell it for $500. i bought it for the rear and some body parts that will fit my 71.
 
AdamR said:
Lots of 318 cars came with 8-3/4. My Dart for one, My 67 Barracuda had a 273 and an 8-3/4.

I agree with Joe. You can save money by using a 383 just like I could have saved money by using a 360.

If I was going to go bare bones big block I would use a 383, Hedmen B body headers and a 727.

Figure a running 383 $500
Big block 727 and stock converter $500
Headers $175
exhaust $200

Everything else is the same regardless of what motor is in the car.
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Stand corrected, my 69 cuda, cam woth 323 posi 8 2/4, and it was 318

but they are harder to find
 
abodyjoe said:
not as rare as you think.. seen quite a few of them. must have been a option package or something. never really cared to look into it.. mine is a 71 dart. no i will not sell it for $500. i bought it for the rear and some body parts that will fit my 71.
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my point exactly..you got a hell of a deal. and hard to find

Phil
 
mrtires24 said:
no I am not...SIMULAR Build

a SB block for rebuild can be bought for $100-200
BB same thing can be bought for $400-$600

a SB runner puffing blue 2 brl $300-$400
a BB runner puffing blue 2 brl $700- $1000

a good runner SB $500 -$800
a good runner BB $1000-$1500

a built SB $1250 $2500
a built BB $1700- $4000

I AM NOT TALKING 340's they are in a class of there own. I have never been talking about 340's
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i know your not talking about a 340. you said 340 wich is comparable to a 440 in price in this area. what about a 383 or 400?
 
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