So you want 2 go Big block...Read this first!

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rumblefish360 said:
My /6 - 318 exhaust was; Hooker headers and exhaust from jegs.
Headers were at the time $159 and the exhaust pipes were $200. Mufflerless systems were/are at Jegs and then the muffler price of your choice has to be added in.

A quick search at Summit racing turns up Hooker headers for a 400 A body @ $510 for fenderwells, painted, $760 coated, then add $195 for the 2-1/2 or $249 for the 3 inch kit, minus $20 for the mufflerless 3 inch kit. ($229)

Coated header, mufflerless system (There mandrel bent, clamps surplied or you weld) and mufflers are what you pay. But the total without mufflers would be;

760 + 230 = 1100 Save $250 with painted headers (?) = $850 or $20 more with there mufflers. $870

Another 2 hundred or less for mufflers?
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thats what i said up top.

$200 for headers ( B/E body headers) as shown working here http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/BBody.shtml
here for $149. http://store.summitracing.com/partd...839039+4294925081+4294908110+115&autoview=sku

$250 for 3 inch ( i orig put $230 for 3 inch) INCLUDING MUFFLERS. THATS WHAT I GOT, AND PAID FOR MINE.

COMPLETE EXHAUST FRONT TO BACK $450!!!!!!

Not $700...not $800......not $1000.

It can be done! Pretty cool huh?

Phil
 
I dont know but i think the costare just about = for BB or SB!Well if you go BB its because you want power.So you figure in the cost to make a SB put out like a BB then it all starts to even out.And a good route to go is to start with a donor C body.And if you build a good SB you need a good radiator also.
Then saying its a BB when anyone asks=PRICELESS
 
Just did some figures on the stuff I'M doin And i will come in right around $2000 or less on mine.That includes buying the motor tranny,aluminum radiator,Mounts exhaust,disc set up,intake,carb...etc etc....
 
mrtires24 said:
Here is My break down of big block expences....For BC canada. I know the USA will be cheaper.

$500-$2000 for big block engine ( $500 for a barely running stock 2 brl $2000 for a rebuilt with 4 brl,and other goodies) Your not guna want a 2 brl intake on it anyways, so even a stock motor and a purchase of a 4 brl intack and carb to bolt on will still cost around $1000
$180 for schumacker motor mounts
$200 for headers, or exhaust manifolds
$230 for 3 inch exhaust and muflers
$350 for auto tranny and drive shaft shortening
$1700-$2500 for big block bell housing, A body tranny, Clutch, Clutch linkage, and shifter, and shifter linkage
$300 for aluminum rad
$500 for Disc brake conversion
$1000 for 8 3/4 rear end
$500 for nickel and dimeing stuff ( filters, hoses, oil, spark pugs/wires, other fluids etc etc)
Prob another $500 of stuff I forgot. Oh, and you will also need a proper oil pan for another $50-$100, and possibly T bars, though I have heard that /6 bars are ok, also need frame conectors, and you might have problems with your stearing linkage. so you may have to buy new idler and pitman arms...and...and...

AUto with $1000 engine = $4760
4 spd with $1000 engine = $6110-$6910

:burnout:
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mrtires24 said:
Good running 360 for $500
auto Tranny for $200
schumacker Motor mounts for $180
$200 for nickel and dime stuff ( oil, gaskets, spark plugs, etc etc)
$200 for exhaust

total of $1280.
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Lycandart said:
I dont know but i think the costare just about = for BB or SB!Well if you go BB its because you want power.So you figure in the cost to make a SB put out like a BB then it all starts to even out.And a good route to go is to start with a donor C body.And if you build a good SB you need a good radiator also.
Then saying its a BB when anyone asks=PRICELESS
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How do you figure? those are my two brake downs. a $1000 big block would equal a $500 small block in quality, and parts on the engine. all the other stuff you don't need.. although I did forget about headers for the small block, so add another $150 to it for a total of $1430Lets compare....
One SB auto build costing $1430 and an auto BB build for $ 4760

  1. If you were to buy a $500 sB you don't need an aluminum rad. If you buy a $1000 Big block, You DO need an aluminum rad.
  2. Big blocks cost more, so if you wanted the same condition engine you will pay double for a BB than you would a SB.
  3. You don't NEED disc Brakes with a small block. LOTS came stock that way. I do think you could run a BB a body on 4 wheel drumbs but it should have discs. Remember there is a big difference in power with a $500 SB, and a $1000 BB, and weight!
  4. You NEED to have your drive shaft shortend and ballanced with a BB install
  5. You NEED to have a 8 3/4 Rear or ( dare I say it) a Ford 9 inch with a $1000 Big block. a 7 1/4 won't last long with it, But It could handle a $500 SB alot longer...if not forever
  6. You have way more Nickle and dimeing expenses with a BB oinstall because your are changing More things...brakes, rear end, etc etc so $500 for BB, and a couple hundred for the SB
  7. you Prob can buy a $500 SB with the right oil pan, but The BB will prob need a different oil pan purchased
  8. You don't need to change any stearing linkage with a SB, and with a BB you prob have to.
  9. You should have frame conectors with the BB, and with a $500 SB you will be JUST FINE.
NO COMPARISON! these are things you NEED with a BB install. Not things you need with a SB install.

have you done a BB install Lycandart?

why does it seam that SB people have to over compinsate for things, and try and brag that it would cost the same...I wasn't wanting to compare anything, just to let people see the real costs.

If you were to install a $500 SB those are the costs to do it..you don't NEED ANYTHING ELSE. you can buy it if you want to...but you don't need it.

Phil
 
lets see i have a 73 duster i am converting now
440 =free runs great (just had to haul the truck away and the junk yard
took it for free for the scrap
schumacker conversion kit = 840 bucks to my door
alum. radiator = 250
transmission 727 = $200 (50 for tranny, 130 for parts 20 for book)
no change in driveshaft =
already had disks
8 3/4 = free. just had to haul away the totaled 71 duster it was in (again
junk yard
sub frame connectors $130

total so far $1380

guess i'm doing al right so far
 
dazedduster said:
lets see i have a 73 duster i am converting now
440 =free runs great (just had to haul the truck away and the junk yard
took it for free for the scrap
schumacker conversion kit = 840 bucks to my door
alum. radiator = 250
transmission 727 = $200 (50 for tranny, 130 for parts 20 for book)
no change in driveshaft =
already had disks
8 3/4 = free. just had to haul away the totaled 71 duster it was in (again
junk yard
sub frame connectors $130

total so far $1380

guess i'm doing al right so far
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lol most people dont get a chance at a free 8.75 a body rear, i wish i could get lucky:-D
 
Ahhh Mr. tires, sorry for the repeat. But all in all, it's not to bad.

How many BB headers for A bodies are there?
 
Where to start..Well if your running a SB to compare output to a bb yes you will want an aluminum radiator and yes you will want disc...and subframe connectors...I just bought a running 230 casting 400 with working tranny for $250...depending on what you start with you will probably need an *3/4 with the driveshaft shortened....and yes I have done several BB swaps in a-bodies from a 70 duster with a 383 to a 70 dart with a 440 that ran 11.65 on street tires and pump gas.So i think you are tryin to compinsate but I wasn't starting anything yet i was just pointing out my opinion....O yeah and I have also went SB also...
P.S i spent $250 including shipping on an 8 3/4 but i went B body for the extra width...also i looks like you have a few PROBS in your description.?
 
getting off your *** and doin work yourself helps alot also...Like making SF connectors and actually you dont even have to go with an aluminum radiator you can get a good Ford truck rad that will do just fine.
 
Do Mopar guys really think about the cost? We do what we can when we can.... sure the expense is a more than a brand x car but we always find a way! Its painful to see the total cost !!!!!! lol
 
mrtires24 said:
why does it seam that SB people have to over compinsate for things, and try and brag that it would cost the same...I wasn't wanting to compare anything, just to let people see the real costs.

If you were to install a $500 SB those are the costs to do it..you don't NEED ANYTHING ELSE. you can buy it if you want to...but you don't need it.
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hey man, i dont know what your gettin at. i wasnt picken a fight, you asked how a person could spend the same amount money sticking a small block as a big block and i told you. brag???? i dont know anyone who can Brag about spending more money. The origional plan for my duster was to install a 451 stroker motor (440 steel crankshaft in a 400 block). and i decided that i would have too much money into the project than i could afford so i decided to build a small block. By the end of the project the only thing i realized for sure was that i could of built a bigblock and installed it for about the same money
 
thanson_mopar said:
hey man, i dont know what your gettin at. i wasnt picken a fight, you asked how a person could spend the same amount money sticking a small block as a big block and i told you. brag???? i dont know anyone who can Brag about spending more money. The origional plan for my duster was to install a 451 stroker motor (440 steel crankshaft in a 400 block). and i decided that i would have too much money into the project than i could afford so i decided to build a small block. By the end of the project the only thing i realized for sure was that i could of built a bigblock and installed it for about the same money
Click to expand...
THANK YOU !!!!
 
Lycandart said:
Where to start..Well if your running a SB to compare output to a bb yes you will want an aluminum radiator and yes you will want disc...and subframe connectors...I just bought a running 230 casting 400 with working tranny for $250...depending on what you start with you will probably need an *3/4 with the driveshaft shortened....and yes I have done several BB swaps in a-bodies from a 70 duster with a 383 to a 70 dart with a 440 that ran 11.65 on street tires and pump gas.So i think you are tryin to compinsate but I wasn't starting anything yet i was just pointing out my opinion....O yeah and I have also went SB also...
P.S i spent $250 including shipping on an 8 3/4 but i went B body for the extra width...also i looks like you have a few PROBS in your description.?
Click to expand...

how much wider is the bbody compared to an a body rear?
 
HemiMark said:
Do Mopar guys really think about the cost? We do what we can when we can.... sure the expense is a more than a brand x car but we always find a way! Its painful to see the total cost !!!!!! lol
Click to expand...

I don't think about it. Everything is just better with a Mopar. The brand X guys just have not figured it out yet.
 
I think its like 4-5 inches flange to flange but the spring perches are need to come in 1/2 on each side..That also depends on the year rear also
 
mrtires24 said:
I was thinking that, but didn't want to say. Nothing wrong with being Cheap..everyones got a budget :) as far as the welder part goes...I was refering that it would cost other people that much for a good one. Sure you might be able to find a good used one if you wait. When did you buy the welder? 1973? ;)



I guess I am more thinking about prices in todays market...not 20 sum years ago. So jim, I have heard good things about you. What do you think the average Joe could do it for. am I pretty much in the ball park with my original post. and try and keep pricing within the last 5 years at least :)

Phil
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The welder was bought brand new (Campbell Hausfeld flux core) at WalMart around 2000 or 2001. The same unit (or similar) is still about the same price. I just mentioned the scoops because that was the real start of the original big block build for me. I finally got the car in 1988 and had it on the road in late 1997. There wasn't much pressure to get it done because I had my GTS to drive during most of that time.

I guess you missed where I said you were pretty much on what it would cost the average person. I just wanted to demonstrate that IF you found the right parts (or parts cars) and had a plan it could be done cheaper.
 
lol most people dont get a chance at a free 8.75 a body rear, i wish i could get lucky
__________________
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Yea scored on that one, and the 440, but what i'v found is when i see these old rusted cars and ask the owner about them alot of them are happy just to have it hauled off.
 
Jim Lusk said:
The welder was bought brand new (Campbell Hausfeld flux core) at WalMart around 2000 or 2001. The same unit (or similar) is still about the same price. I just mentioned the scoops because that was the real start of the original big block build for me. I finally got the car in 1988 and had it on the road in late 1997. There wasn't much pressure to get it done because I had my GTS to drive during most of that time.

I guess you missed where I said you were pretty much on what it would cost the average person. I just wanted to demonstrate that IF you found the right parts (or parts cars) and had a plan it could be done cheaper.
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Thank you, and yes I agree, everything could be done cheaper.

I'm not trying to pick fights with anyone. I am getting frusterated because all I intended this post to be, was a post that paople could look at and see what the REAL cost are for installing a BB into an A BODY.

Like I said when I started it at the begining. Put prices that anyone can get...not Just You. I don't know too many people that can get a 440 for free. ( come to think of it I did last week) but thats besides the point. very few people can pull that off. never mind a free 8 3/4. and I wasn't trying to comparethe costs between a BB instalation, and a SB instalation. We clearly have a disagreament on this. you guys are comparing apples and oranges. I out this in the Big Block section for a reason.

Its funny how some BB paople are saying that it can be done for cheaper...and It can..I agree...but not by everyone, and not by me. But some small block people are telling me it costs pretty much the same. $6000 :scratch:

if you do a big block install for $2000, you could do a SB for under a grand. or maybe free! free engine...free tranny, free diff.

Please guys, I'm not trying to fight. sometimes reading what people are typing isn't what they really mean. or I just have a hard time putting thoughts in Font :)

Phil
 
Phil, I didn't see it as a fight or even a disagreement. Just clarification.

And, the reality is that unless you have quite a bit more budgeted for the unknowns or things like a front end rebuild you still may not be done for that amount. So much is in the starting point.

I'm also a junk yard junkie. I'm not happy unless I get out to the yards every couple of months or more often. I've found things that you just shouldn't find out there (like a 2.94SG third member for $32 about ten years ago or a 68 GTS grille medallion for $2 and change - same yard, similar time frame). That said, I've left more money in valuable parts at yards than I have ever taken home.

The other thing about the cheap cluster is that I bought it from a drag racer. And very often if the part doesn't make it go faster, they just want it gone. It's much better than buying off e-bay or the local Mopar show.

So, Phil, I guess what I'm saying is that we are on the page, really. It isn't cheap, but it's not horribly expensive, either (certainly not like playing with real hemi cars).
 
mrtires24 said:
As far as exhaust goes...anyone can get this. check it out
2.5 inch from headers back under $200
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...922451+4294925081+4294908078+115&autoview=sku
and 3 inch with mufflers from jegs or summit is about $250

I have the 3 inch, and my buddie has the 2.5. they both sound good to us. More than happe with these kits. fits in swingers no prob, have to cut for demons, dart sports, and dusters.

Keep in mind...these costs are for A body big block instalations. Not trucks, or other cars.

Demon Dave, I call your bluff. I'm asking how..if you take intoconsideration you can do a /6 to small block swap for this much

Good running 360 for $500
auto Tranny for $200
schumacker Motor mounts for $180
$200 for nickel and dime stuff ( oil, gaskets, spark plugs, etc etc)
$200 for exhaust

total of $1280. You can't do all that with a big block....trust me. Look at my thread if you want.


But I'll call you on it...I am asking how

Phil

PS. I think the Auto tranny price I have up there is low. I can't find a big block tranny in good condition locally for under $500
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Call me a liar if you wish but I just did the swap not 2 months ago so I know what I'm talking about. I actually think a /6 to V8 swap would be more costly since you definiately have to change front brakes and rear axle. Many SB cars came with front disk brakes and some even came with 8 3/4" axles from the factory which would save some coin when going from SB to BB.

Fresh 360 engine $1000
Rebuilt 727 w/ Cheetah valve body $800
727 Torque convertor (3500 stall) $500
Schumacher conversion mounts $200
A-body 8 3/4 axle with pig $500
All new brakes for axle $120
Used driveshaft from friend $50
New u-joints for driveshaft $20
Rebuilt distributor for 360 $60
Exhaust manifolds from friend $40
Full exhaust $840
A-body chrome exhaust tips $40 (a deal!)
Radiator $300
Rad and heater hoses $40
Spark plugs/wires $40
Aux. tranny cooler $75
Fuel pump $30
Power steering pump pressure line $10 (used)
Edelbrock Performer carb $300
Edelbrock carb linkage adapter $20
Mopar Performance throttle cable for V8 $30
Dual snorkel air cleaner assembly $40 (another deal!)
5 bladed clutch fan $40 (from friend)

Total so far - $5095 and I haven't included cost of fluids, hardware or my labour.

If I had to do it again (or give advice to anyone), I'd start with a 318 car anyday. The parts required to convert a /6 car are many and are getting hard to find. Just finding a pulley set for the 360 was a pain as the junkyards in this area have nothing older than 1990 anymore so all of the small blocks in them have massive engine accessory brackets and multi-groove pulleys. It's tough to find single or dual groove pulleys without buying new and paying through the nose.

So believe what you want, converting any car to a different drivetrain is the short road to bankruptcy these days, small block or big block.
 
building a car is not cheap, period. It doesnt matter what your doing, If your doing it right, your going to pay.
 
Adam hits the nail on the head, period.

I was chatting it up with a few fellas at work. One of them said he wanted to get back into it when he retires, in a few months, but was afraid due to not truly knowing anything. He's 10+ years older than me and remembers the golden age when he was younger. Everybody had something he said. The streets were chok filled.

I told him since he didn't know much, to find someone he trusted alot and ask for there help in finding the car he wanted in the best condition he can afford. Paying the piper up front like that will save boat loads of money and headaches galore.

Otherwise, on a basic level of looking at things when doing a car, I often tell people who ask, if you want a killer looking car, do the above I mention or be prepared to spend the like amount on your old ride as it will cost you as much as a new car.

OK, theres a large variable there with the words, "New car", but, theres a ton of truth to it. Alot depending on how much you do, how much you farm out and the level of finish you wish it to look and perform at.
 
I agree with DemonDave you need 5-6k ready just in case you need it. You can put your ear to the ground and start looking for parts. All the deals you need won't happen as you need the parts. Then once car is torn apart you will go upper and lower ball joints ,tierod ends, bushings,bb t-bars list will go on and on. If you really need a part you will pay the long dollar for it or wait and the car sits.Things not on your list to start with. Just like Rumble said when done figure on the new car.
 
$500-$2000 for big block engine ( $500 for a barely running stock 2 brl $2000 for a rebuilt with 4 brl,and other goodies) Your not guna want a 2 brl intake on it anyways, so even a stock motor and a purchase of a 4 brl intack and carb to bolt on will still cost around $1000 small blocks aren't too much cheaper. there are deals out there for any motor though.


$180 for schumacker motor mounts same if your going to a small block using a 6 cyl. k-frame.,

$200 for headers, or exhaust manifolds that price is way too low.

$230 for 3 inch exhaust and muflers seems awlful cheap to me. is needed with small block or big block. and does your combo really need 3" ??

$350 for auto tranny and drive shaft shortening ok price could be close. but that sure isn't a rebuilt trans

$1700-$2500 for big block bell housing, A body tranny, Clutch, Clutch linkage, and shifter, and shifter linkage ok, i never priced that stuff, but small block wouldn't be any cheaper i wouldn't think.

$300 for aluminum rad not really needed. but if your going from a 6cyl then a small block is gonna need a rad also.


$500 for Disc brake conversion to do it right that sounds on the cheaper side. again you would want disc brakes even with a small block.

$1000 for 8 3/4 rear end would want a 8 3/4 even with a small block

$500 for nickel and dimeing stuff ( filters, hoses, oil, spark pugs/wires, other fluids etc etc) same for whatever motor you put in it.


basically it only cost a minimal more to do a big block in an abody over a small block. now if you start with a small block car you can definatley save with not needing mounts and stuff like that but all in all they are real close to the same price if starting with a 6 cyl. car.



are there exceptions to every rule? sure there is. but it comes down to like adam says. if your gonna do it right its gonna cost ya.

hell i probably have close to $1100 into putting my tempory used engine in my dart including buying the motor and trans a few years ago. i reused my intake,carb,headders,water pump, dizzy and wires, rad, and trans. had a friend give me a new rebuilt stock converter and put new hoses, gaskets,timing chain and oil pump on the motor. those lil things add up fast.
 
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