I'm curious...whats that supposed to mean?
"which I would not have shown you"
I'd hate to think you'd withold info from the board over some arguement you seem to have with another member just so he wouldnt get the info.
Seems pretty silly.
Some strut bushing info
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I'm curious...whats that supposed to mean?
"which I would not have shown you"
I'd hate to think you'd withold info from the board over some arguement you seem to have with another member just so he wouldnt get the info.
Seems pretty silly.
That post was meant for 72bluNblu. I wouldn't help him with anything
Here is some info on Bushings for A bodies. PN 7040 For 67-72. with shear sleeve and how they are installed. No inner steel sleeve
Here is 73-76 PN 7068 for 73 -76 the large washer on the bottom in the picture faces the front and the washer cups the bushing. The small washer is in the rear and does not cup the bushing. both kits are available and in stock you just have to know who to call.
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Don’t hold your breath. The only bushing listed by Napa is for the earlier 67-72 cars, part #NCP 2748999
Doesn’t matter which ‘73-76 car you look up, that’s the number that’s listed for all of them and it’s the wrong part.
Of course it’s silly. He thinks he’s the only one that knows this stuff. The bushings he’s been holding up as the holy grail are just off the shelf stock Moog replacement parts.
Heck you’re the one that posted the part number, he’s never done that before.
Yeah, that’s the same number posted by Jimacuda back in post #19, no new info here.
And that’s the same part number I posted back in post #13. Also the same part # that I’ve had in order for over two weeks now. Make as many calls as you’d like, they’re out of stock and back ordered every where.
72blunblu,if you are talking about the moog k7040, i just got 2 sets off ebay.
Like many on this site they must not like you. Check the dates I can get what ever I want. I never posted the PN before because I never kept the boxes. But I ordered these not because I needed them. I just was sick of your bullshit. Note I got 2 for 67-72 a bodies and one set for 73-76 A-bodies. They are available for commercial in store on the east coast where I live. I can get as many as I want. Both sets have shear sleeves. Not like the poly bushings that were praised by you in the past several times. You just can't stand eating your words.
Wait until I get a car on the lift with poly LCA's and show how bad they are. You'll eat your words on that also.
I ordered three more sets of each for freinds. And I need a set for the 440+6 Cuda we have here. They'll be here by Friday. Wow you really sling the **** to prove your not wrong when you should just admit you never ordered nothing. Why would you? Your poly style are working just fine for over 10 years. LMFAO
Wait until I get a car on the lift with poly LCA's and show how bad they are. You'll eat your words on that also.
I ordered three more sets of each for freinds. And I need a set for the 440+6 Cuda we have here. They'll be here by Friday. Wow you really sling the **** to prove your not wrong when you should just admit you never ordered nothing. Why would you? Your poly style are working just fine for over 10 years. LMFAO
I'm NOT talking about the K7040's, I'm talking about the K7068's. The K7040's are readily available everywhere but they do not fit the later '73-'76 strut rods.
Well, that's not what my local Napa told me, and using the K7068 on NapaOnline takes you to the single piece bushing which is incorrect for the '73-'76 strut rods. So congratulations on getting a set of K7068's, but I did what you suggested and I can't control what my local Napa says.
And my Jeg's order is still on backorder, placed 7/17.
So is my Amazon order from 7/27.
As far as the poly bushings go, I don't use poly strut rod bushings. I have also never recommended that anyone use them. EVER. Not in any of my 10,848 posts, not once. Let me repeat that, since apparently you didn't comprehend what I said back in post #29. I HAVE NEVER USED POLY STRUT ROD BUSHINGS OR RECOMMENDED THEM TO ANYONE.
I use adjustable strut rods on all of my cars, and I recommend adjustable strut rods to everyone else. I have also occasionally recommended rubber strut rod bushings for those that insist on using rubber LCA bushings. The poly strut rod bushings can cause issues, like I've already described in this thread in post #29. Why you keep saying I used poly strut rod bushings I don't know, other than you just keep confusing LCA bushings and strut rod bushings.
I have used poly LCA bushings. And I will continue to. And I will continue to recommend them, because it's easy to explain to a rational person how they're different from rubber LCA bushings and why they still work. Unfortunately, you don't seem to be a rational person.
As for your video, I eagerly await it. I literally can not wait. Video evidence of what you're doing wrong will be priceless. Although if your video is as blurry as the pictures of your invoices it won't be of much use.
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The only thing I know about poly bushings, is they make the front suspension too stiff for drag racing.
The suspension reacts too slowww.......
The suspension reacts too slowww.......
At the strut rods that's completely true. The stiffer poly bushing resists up and down movement, which adds resistance to the LCA moving up and down. It also resists fore/aft movement better than rubber strut rod bushings, but the added resistance to the LCA travel outweighs the benefit in the other direction. Which is why I have always recommended adjustable strut rods. They move freely up and down and do not allow fore/aft movement.
At the LCA it's the opposite. A properly lubricated poly bushing at the LCA will have less resistance than a rubber bushing. You literally have to twist the rubber to move the LCA up and down with the stock design.
Now, if you don't lubricate the poly LCA bushing it's different story. You have to understand the differences in the material and how the bushing functions. Unlike what most people think you can't just slap the poly bushings in there, never maintain them, and expect them to work properly. Maintain them properly though and they'll perform better and last longer. But you can't treat them like rubber bushings, because they aren't.
I posted and pictured both 7040 and 7068 receipts with dates. Like I said they must not like you. I just bought them check the dates.
Poly LCA's are no good . There is nothing holding the lower from moving front and back on the pin. You stated previously that the strut rod bushing stops the movement front and back. Now your stating use rubber strut bushings to promote movement. You also stated to use adjustable struts with a swivel built in to prevent movement front and back, How the hell does that work. Everything you advise is just bull ****. You change your mind and post lies to cover your previous fictional stories. Unless users do other mods to hold the lowers from slipping off that pin the alignment will be all over the place . The only time poly bushings work are when they are used in sleeves or aftermarket control arms that are designed to encase them.
My advise to all is if you have a factory suspension use factory bushings. Drag car owners using poly bushings for movement and flex use what ever you want as a cheap way to get your car to hook up. A car that has suspension lift and flex loses reaction time on a hard launch. I and many tied cars down for years. When you order a suspension kit throw the poly bushings in the garbage. You can't even give them to your dog to chew on they'll chew them up into pieces and die. LOL
Poly LCA's are no good . There is nothing holding the lower from moving front and back on the pin. You stated previously that the strut rod bushing stops the movement front and back. Now your stating use rubber strut bushings to promote movement. You also stated to use adjustable struts with a swivel built in to prevent movement front and back, How the hell does that work. Everything you advise is just bull ****. You change your mind and post lies to cover your previous fictional stories. Unless users do other mods to hold the lowers from slipping off that pin the alignment will be all over the place . The only time poly bushings work are when they are used in sleeves or aftermarket control arms that are designed to encase them.
My advise to all is if you have a factory suspension use factory bushings. Drag car owners using poly bushings for movement and flex use what ever you want as a cheap way to get your car to hook up. A car that has suspension lift and flex loses reaction time on a hard launch. I and many tied cars down for years. When you order a suspension kit throw the poly bushings in the garbage. You can't even give them to your dog to chew on they'll chew them up into pieces and die. LOL
How about the NAPA 73 up bushing part number?
Not moog.
Not moog.
?
maybe I misunderstood...
I thought you were getting a napa branded 73-76 strut bushing set as well as the 7068 moog piece.
that would be a good number to have out there as another option for the 73 up guys.
I thought you were getting a napa branded 73-76 strut bushing set as well as the 7068 moog piece.
that would be a good number to have out there as another option for the 73 up guys.
what ever you say
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famous bob
mopar misfit
Its clear to me , that ''both/all'' of u guys know more about front ends than I do , that being said , why couldnt a guy make /alter or build strut rods to accept heim joints for a stock type front end ??
I built a lite weight set for my tubular mag force front end , with heim joint at the lower control arm -----------just because of their bad reputation .
yup
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fishmarket
Well-Known Member
I'm curious how the heim joint swivel on the end of your custom strut rod is different than a QA1 or hotchkis swivel? Other than moving the pivot point back they are the same design.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I`m curious why u went thru the arm instead of just welding the brackets on the front side . Was there a problem w/ it being too short and binding or something ?
I measured the orig. struts off my front end and made the new ones as close to the same as possible , for the mag. force front end.
When I get the parts rounded up and get the k frame mod done , will probly put a good heim on the stock front set up too ---------
yup
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I order them at NAPA . He is a relative he gets these for me. I don't know numbers I just tell him what I am looking for.
fishmarket
Well-Known Member
The strut rod moves in an arc, moving the pivot point further away from the control arm lessens the amount that the lower control arm has to deviate fore and aft during its travel. This was actually smart believe it or not.... I would have executed the brackets differently and incorporated the horizontal plane of the k-member as well for strength, but I believe oldmanmopar and myself use our cars in different fashions.
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famous bob
mopar misfit
I`m the same way , why buy something u can make / Especially if what u need is laying around in the way !
fishmarket
Well-Known Member
This is exactly why people use adjustable strut rods like QA1 and Hotchkis. How is yours any different from theirs?
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