Sound Proofing a Dodge

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onedesigntalk

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The noise from the road rushing beneath our vehicles can prove annoying. It can interfere with the quality of the sound coming from car stereo systems and make it more difficult to hear conversations among passengers. To help insulate the passenger compartment from outside noise, Dynamat sound-deadening sheets can be installed.


1.1
Park the vehicle on a level surface. Apply the parking brake and open all doors. Put on your safety glasses. Remove the vehicle's door sill plates by removing the mounting screws with your screwdriver and set them aside.

2.2
Remove the seats. Loosen the mounting bolts of the front seat with a wrench. (The mounting bolts can be located in the passenger compartment on the seat sliders or under the vehicle coming up through the floor pan and into the seat sliders.) If they are accessible under the vehicle, there is no need to raise the vehicle--they can be accessed by reaching under the vehicle approximately 6 to 8 inches. Once the bolts are removed, set the seats aside on the floor. To remove the rear seat, simply push the seat bottom down and at the same time push it toward the trunk (to the rear). When you feel it pop free of the mount, lift the seat up and out of position. Set the seat outside of the vehicle on the floor.

3.3
Remove the seat belts and carpeting. Use a wrench to loosen the mounting bolts and set the seat belts aside. Mark each belt with a piece of masking tape and a pen to ensure it goes into the correct location when reinstalled. Remove the carpeting by simply starting at the front and pulling it toward the rear. It is not glued down and will slide out. Set it aside on a clean floor.

4.4
Clean the floor of the car. Vacuum the entire floor and use a hose to wash it down. Allow it to dry completely before proceeding.

5.5
Peel the protective covering off of the back of the Dynamat to expose the adhesive and apply it to the vehicle's floor. Take care to work slowly so as to eliminate air bubbles. You can trim the Dynamat to size or cut it to shape with a pair of large tin snips. Be sure to cover the entire floor and push it down evenly to smooth it out. If you get any air bubbles, use a razor blade knife to slit the bubble and push the air out with the fiberglass installation tool. Use the razor blade knife to cut around all bolt holes in the floorboards.

6.6
Replace the carpet. Slide the carpeting into position and make sure it is straight.

7.7
Replace the seat belts into their proper position and replace the bolts. Tighten the bolts with a wrench.

8.8
Replace the seats. Replace the rear seat first by sliding it into position and push it down as you push it into place. When you feel it snap into the track, allow it to slide forward and into the locked position. Replace the front seat by setting the seat into position and replacing the mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts with a wrench.

9.9
Replace the door sill plates by setting them into position and replacing the mounting screws. Tighten the screws with a screwdriver. Close the doors.


There are some large and detailed images of this here: http://dynamat-complete-installation.blogspot.com/
 
Putting a square on each door won't hurt either. The goal isn't to completely blanket the surface, but add enough to prevent the metal from vibrating.

You may find that on older cars especially, wind noise through the door gaps and window seals is probably louder than anything coming through the panels. And if you're running old tires, woo-wee!
 
Id like to ad that a Heat gun and a small roller also work well. FYI there are cheaper products that work just the same but cheaper then Dynamat
 
Here's one thing that I believe is vitally important before you install any type of insulation on your floors:

Make sure you don't have any interior water leaks!

Otherwise, all you will be doing is installing a sponge that will hold water against your floor sheetmetal.
 
actually ocdart the dynamat is a hard substance although flexible as that will shut out any hole it can cover and has an adhesive backing and if done correctly up against its counterpart, there will not be any leakage.
 
actually ocdart the dynamat is a hard substance although flexible as that will shut out any hole it can cover and has an adhesive backing and if done correctly up against its counterpart, there will not be any leakage.

Dynamat may be a hard substance, but a lot of insulations are not. Eliminating water leaks first is just a logical thing to do that some may not think of. Just trying to help.
 
Dynamat may be a hard substance, but a lot of insulations are not. Eliminating water leaks first is just a logical thing to do that some may not think of. Just trying to help.



Which is why I suggest a heat gun. You can get this stuff to sort of "flow" into spaces. But very good points.
 
ocdart, understandably, sorry just thought you were speaking of dynamat being the insulation as well.

I am lucky to have gotten an unmolested and rust free 64 Signet from New York back 20 or so years ago and still have it today although I have molested her :)
 
onedesigntalk
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: usa
Posts: 1


Do you work for Dynamat or what ??

Will it work on my Plymouth or just Dodge ?
 
I agree, good post and info....you gotta keep the noise and heat out.

I used Hush Mat on the 'Cuda

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and in the roof

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When I saw those pictures Tony, I thought they were mine and had to look twice. I used a 1/2 inch double sided aluminum with Jute inside from the inner firewall to the trunk area like this but never finished carpeting the trunk but have an appointment in November, even the inner doors are done.
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I went the other way and took the sound proofing out. All of it and the radio. Can't say I miss them at all. Well some times the radio on the long drives.
 
how much dynamat is needed to do a whole floor of a car?..you guys buy a kit or rolls or what?..price around? $200?..more less?..
 
I had a guy recommend a product called Lizard Skin , anyone hear of it ?
Donnie
 

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I used Fat Mat. Quite a bit cheaper and they sell it on ebay. Good results so far. I put it everywhere, even under the head liner.
 

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Dynamat is expensive !! I used b-queit products.. The hole car in "dynamat" like product and the entire floor in 3/8 inch foam and neopryne.. Probably added 50 lbs to the car but alot of noise gone.. Now to address the fresh air system and under dash noises.
 
I used Peel N Seal. Did the whole floor in my Roadrunner for about 35 bucks.
I'm just sayin'
 
I used Peel N Seal. Did the whole floor in my Roadrunner for about 35 bucks.
I'm just sayin'


Has the car seen the sun? Im curious to how it reacts in the california sun? Prolonged exposure. Also when you get it in is there any obnoxious odors from the roofing seal?
 
Has the car seen the sun? Im curious to how it reacts in the california sun? Prolonged exposure. Also when you get it in is there any obnoxious odors from the roofing seal?

I haven't noticed any bad "roofing" smells at all. I haven't installed my carpet kit yet, so the product itself is still exposed to the interior. Having used Hushmat and Dynamat, I will say that it probably isn't AS good as those two products. I will say that there is a noticeable difference and once the carpet is in, it will be just fine. The added plus is that my wallet ain't bleeding to death on the floor. (Thanks to whoever put that image in my mind).
 
I haven't noticed any bad "roofing" smells at all. I haven't installed my carpet kit yet, so the product itself is still exposed to the interior. Having used Hushmat and Dynamat, I will say that it probably isn't AS good as those two products. I will say that there is a noticeable difference and once the carpet is in, it will be just fine. The added plus is that my wallet ain't bleeding to death on the floor. (Thanks to whoever put that image in my mind).



Yeah I feel ya on that. I was just wonderin if it got gooey or soft when it gets hot.
 
Yeah I feel ya on that. I was just wonderin if it got gooey or soft when it gets hot.

Not that I've noticed. It's not all that thick. And I haven't seen the foil backing on it slipping around....lol.
Pretty sure you will never know it's there once you put the carpet down.
When I went into this path, my objectives were that it be cheap, (because, apparently, I am), effective, and not bulky. I have seen other products that were really thick. I have also had experience with upholstry shops that add in layers of thick jute crap under the carpet.
Years before, I would have just used the factory stuff, thrown down the carpet and been done with it. My ears have been getting hammered as of late and this is my first stage of trying to keep 'em a little happier.
 
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