SS/B Barracuda project

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image.jpeg
Here is a few photos of my car.
 
ns1rm21 said:
Hello there. Looks like your having a good time there. Things that you might want to look at before you go much further. I too built a Hemi Dart and these are the things that I did and it helped out a bunch.

Headers, TTI has a real nice set of headers for these cars. I believe these set the engine 1" to the passengers side....not 1.20. I urge you to look at there we'd sit to check this for sure. Nobody but TTI makes a quality set of headers for these cars and it will save you thousands of dollars buying these headers and setting the engine in a location to ocomindate them instead of having a custom set built.

Steering column. The bottom tube of the steering column needs to be trimmed down to clear the corner of the cylinder head. This is what the factory did and I had to do the same thing. Easy to do.....pull the plastic bearing out, trim off 1.500, file smooth, drill new holes for the plastic bearing and reinstall.

Hope this helps, Troy
Click to expand...

Thanks Troy,
Yes, I do know about your Dart, and wouldn´t mind the engine compartment one bit. :) Looks really really good...
When it comes to headers, I want the stock look of the Hooker´s, so I´m going to build them myself, as much like the originals as possible. This is why I can stick to the original posission sideways, but mostley because with the 1.20" offset, I have a perfect stright line trough the crank centerine, transmission to the pinion.
Steering colum seem like one of the easier mods... thanks.
Thank You
Stefan
20160501_120540[1]BlockTest.jpg
 
I had a set of the Hooker headers and tried several times to get them to work and never did. Many of the original cars, the headers were put in the trunk because of fitmit issues.
 
ns1rm21 said:
I had a set of the Hooker headers and tried several times to get them to work and never did. Many of the original cars, the headers were put in the trunk because of fitmit issues.
Click to expand...

Yes, are you talking the Hooker 5481, or originals?
 
Nothing noteworthy. Many of the racers got rid of the original 2" and went to 2 1/8 or 2 1/4 custom headers. You can find them on eBay but there always bent and dinged up.
 
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THE SHIFTER
I have never seen the DVFX-468 shifter mechanism that according to the Guide came with these cars. I appears though this shifter mechanism bolts different to the transmission, than the newer Competition Plus Shifter I have chosen. That’s why Bob Tarrozzi had a special adapter made for these shifters. With this special adapter, the mechanism sits about the same as an ordinary newer Competition Plus Shifter sits with the standard A-Body adapter.

Well there is no other way to explain, why my shifter mechanism ended, an inch or so, too far to the rear in the hump, when I used the Hurst adapter with the newer Competition Plus Shifter.

If not the opening in the hump had been enlarged of cause, but I doubt that… Or when I come to think of it, has this to do with the fact, there was no rubber boot over the mechanism, when cars were delivered from Hurst?? May be whole in hump was enlarged, to make room for the mechanism?? No don’t think so either, because chrome ring I have seen in old photos, appears to be at the edge of the hump, the way mine is…

Question: Can someone say if the bolt pattern in relationship to the shift lever stick is the same on a newer Competition Plus Shifter, and the older mechanism used in the SS-cars?

Anyway, self made hurst adapter has to go, if not someone can give an explanation to this mismatch in my shifter mockup…
20160521_215713[1]Shifter.jpg


Hump hanging on mechanism...
20160521_215633[1]ShifterHump.jpg


this much hump needs to moved forward...
20160524_084218[1]HumpFrontTest.jpg


seen from right side...
20160524_084725[1]ShiftHumpTest.jpg


Chrome ring in place. I think this is the way it looks on the Hurst-cars, but here hump is hanging on shifter...
20160524_085233[1]KromRingVäxel.jpg
 
Interesting....my Dart is an auto but the Cuda I'm building is a four speed and I'm not at that stage yet. Originally they did not use a Compitition Plus shifter....I thought the used a stock shifter block but bolted in the Reverse Lock Out package that does move the shifter over to the driver side 3/8". Remember if you move the shifter your going to need to do something with the shift rods as well.
Please keep us all informed and thanks!!
 
Post #74 second pic. shows the correct Hurst shifter that is to be used with the special Hurst mounting pad mentioned in the guide.
The guides authors know the correct shifter parts are all long discontinued and gave a not so good choice for a modern replacement that doesn't fit as it should.
 
ssba said:
Post #74 second pic. shows the correct Hurst shifter that is to be used with the special Hurst mounting pad mentioned in the guide.
The guides authors know the correct shifter parts are all long discontinued and gave a not so good choice for a modern replacement that doesn't fit as it should.
Click to expand...

Yes, well in my case, I need to move shifter an inch or so forward, from where it is now. This would be to the possession an ordinary adaptor would place it. So I´m going to make an ordinary A-Body adapter, but one that place the shifter a little higher and a little further to the left, but not backwards, like the Hurst adapter do with my newer Competition PS.
Because the idea with the Hurst adapter, from what I understand, was also to move the lever a little closer to the driver.
I think the final result, so to speak, will be shifter knob in my car is going to be pretty much in exact the same possession, that the one of a factory SS-car is

Well. it would be interesting to see the two next to each other. To see how the two bolt wholes are placed in relation to the lever...
 
Chrome stick comes out of the Hurst mechanism at a different angle than the competition plus also.
Special mounting pad accommodates this angle.
 
Hurst used a welded chrome stick that came out of the shifter box at a forward angle compared to the
bolt on handle modern style.

IMG_20141019_020009_446.jpg
 
Yes thanks,
I was playing some, as I had breakfast this morning. It is not correct by any means, but it still shows what has to be the case. The lower bolt sit different in the two shifters. If upper bolt is in place, one can tilt the mechanism, and of cause it would effect the possession of the shifter knob. The rear part of the mechanism also has to be build a little less, that's why it does not get in contact with the hump...

IMG_20141019_020009_446.jpg
20160525_081825[1]GOOD.jpg
 
How long is this shifter lever? From upper bolt whole in mechanism, to top of thread...

IMG_20141019_020009_446SPAKEN.jpg
 
Sorry Stefan I no longer have the part to measure it.
You may be able to scale it off the shifter box since
all the Hurst h pattern 4 speed shifters used the same case.
 
The shifter you have is probably designed to work with the stock aluminum shifter mounting pad.
With some careful study you can get the shifter you have mounted in the correct angle by making a custom mounting pad.
 
I have found several of the pictures/blue prints in the Jim Schibe manual no to be correct. For example the rear window strap that holds up the back window. It was off but a mile to make it work. With that being said why would any of the four speed clutch stuff be any different than a 383 car??
 
Much was changed from the 383 cars.
Blow proof steel bell housing
Upgraded clutch and throwout bearing
18 spline red stripe gear set that was slick shifted.
Non factory hurst shifter/handle and mounting location for strait linkage rods.
Reverse lock out.
B-body clutch fork
 
By the way, I have found many errors in Jim's book also as I got to assembling things.
Informative book but, grrrrrr.
 
ssba said:
Much was changed from the 383 cars.
Blow proof steel bell housing
Upgraded clutch and throwout bearing
18 spline red stripe gear set that was slick shifted.
Non factory hurst shifter/handle and mounting location for strait linkage rods.
Reverse lock out.
B-body clutch fork
Click to expand...

I did not know the they changed the shift rods so I can see that making a difference in shifter location...maybe.
What was the reason for them to change to a B body fork? Longer, shorter...less or more leverage?
 
Had to work with the special steel bell housing I believe. Probably was a carry over from the earlier 65 race hemi.
 
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