SS/B Barracuda project

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The length of the lock out lever is universal.
Hurst simply supplied a 1/4-20 threaded rod in the kit.
It could be cut down by the racer to a length that he liked.
Hurst also supplied a piece of silver vinyl or rubber tube to
be slipped over the threaded rod to give it a finished look.
A piece of aluminum tube could be used to replace the
vinyl tube and be more durable and look better.
 

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SSing said:
Cut outs... don´t have to worry about them.
Click to expand...

I thought original S/ S Barracudas still had cutouts in the rear valence. They just didn't use them.

Pete Haldiman's old 68 Hemi Barracuda that's featured in the Anthony Young "Hemi" book has both rear cutouts. That car was very virgin. Never caged or tubbed.
 
autoxcuda said:
I thought original S/ S Barracudas still had cutouts in the rear valence. They just didn't use them.

Pete Haldiman's old 68 Hemi Barracuda that's featured in the Anthony Young "Hemi" book has both rear cutouts. That car was very virgin. Never caged or tubbed.
Click to expand...


Well this may be an example of me writing in an foreign language. What I ment was I didn´t have to bother about getting a new valance with cut outs...

But thank you anyway. ;) I like the way you guys keep an eye on my project, that is why I started this thread on "your" Forum, in the first place...
 
The red ball doesn´t have any "R" marking, but that can be inscribed, if now only the size is correct??
 

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ssba said:
The length of the lock out lever is universal.
Hurst simply supplied a 1/4-20 threaded rod in the kit.
It could be cut down by the racer to a length that he liked.
Hurst also supplied a piece of silver vinyl or rubber tube to
be slipped over the threaded rod to give it a finished look.
A piece of aluminum tube could be used to replace the
vinyl tube and be more durable and look better.
Click to expand...

Thank you ssba. Well that makes sense...
 
ssba said:
The length of the lock out lever is universal.
Hurst simply supplied a 1/4-20 threaded rod in the kit.
It could be cut down by the racer to a length that he liked.
Hurst also supplied a piece of silver vinyl or rubber tube to
be slipped over the threaded rod to give it a finished look.
A piece of aluminum tube could be used to replace the
vinyl tube and be more durable and look better.
Click to expand...

Super... Under "Important" one can read -Check spring in recess before assembly. Be sure the spring is against the edge of the sliding blade, NOT UNDER IT.
Well that was exactly where I found it... under the sliding blade. Now once the loc out is mounted and tight between the shifter mechanism and the gear box, I don´t think this can happened.
Anyway... this instructions will be handy when assembling starts...
Thank you ssba
 
Stefan the red ball you have looks correct. The ball has a "R"
And an arrow printed on it in white ink or paint. This paint never lasted long if the part has seen some use. Wore away
easily. There is no correct replacement for this so don't get rid of your worn one.
The markings are not set into the ball deep like the 4-speed H pattern in the typical Hurst ball. Very shallow and would wear away smooth quickly.
 
Photo of NOS part off Ebay for reference.
 

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ssba said:
Photo of NOS part off Ebay for reference.
Click to expand...

Yes ssba, I have saved this picture also, but figured it was done like on the shifter knobs like you say... But... a close look under bright light, reveals something interesting :) Yes the shallow pattern of a "R" and an arrow... how cool was that...
Thanks again :)
 

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A couple more things about this old style lock out that can help Stefan.
This part is not made up to the same standard as a Hurst shifter box everyone
is familiar with. The great engineering and design that can be manhandled and collect years of
road grime and still work is not built into this part. It takes very little for them to malfunction and lock up.
The spring that creates the detent or holds it in selected position
is barely adequate. It will move out of position easily and can stop the function
of the part. Always check position of spring before sandwiching between mounting pad
and shifter box. The foil decal (#4 on instruction sheet) is important. This keeps dirt and road
grime out of mechanism. Aluminum furnace tape can be substituted on a used part.
If the spring breaks a new one can be made by carefully bending a Bobbie pin into shape as a replacement. Not easy but can be done.
Hurst did not make this style lock out very many years and moved on to better designs.
Unfortunately it was what they had to offer when our 68s were new. They do work if a close eye
is given during installation.
 
ssba said:
A couple more things about this old style lock out that can help Stefan.
This part is not made up to the same standard as a Hurst shifter box everyone
is familiar with. The great engineering and design that can be manhandled and collect years of
road grime and still work is not built into this part. It takes very little for them to malfunction and lock up.
The spring that creates the detent or holds it in selected position
is barely adequate. It will move out of position easily and can stop the function
of the part. Always check position of spring before sandwiching between mounting pad
and shifter box. The foil decal (#4 on instruction sheet) is important. This keeps dirt and road
grime out of mechanism. Aluminum furnace tape can be substituted on a used part.
If the spring breaks a new one can be made by carefully bending a Bobbie pin into shape as a replacement. Not easy but can be done.
Hurst did not make this style lock out very many years and moved on to better designs.
Unfortunately it was what they had to offer when our 68s were new. They do work if a close eye
is given during installation.
Click to expand...


Haha... Yes imagine this happening when over-stage in the final... It would not happen to me, I tell you that.
A lot of details here... And I´m loving it, :) ssba
 
UPPDATE

Hi all,

It´s about time to do some update. And I apologize it took so long...

I now have a deal with my cousin, who have had a Short Block laying since the early eighties… I turned the block in to Machine Shop the very same day I picked it up, and I now have a late October Casting to go ahead with.

My cousin always told me it was an 60 over block, but as the shop guy and I started to check it out, it turns out to be a 30 over, but had some bad scratches on the outside of each bank. But thanks to the machinery he has, he manage to clear this away by offset bore the block another .030.

Crank is a 426 max wedge, in very god shape. You should have seen the smile on this guy’s face when I told me about the wrench tapping test. “she sang for me a minute at least…” J Rods are Hemi original. Block has a welding on outside of the right side, but machine shop guy say not to worry to much about it. He felt the welding jobb had been well done.

Pics is of mockup of Block-Bell-Trans in body. Since the body is still in the rotisseries, I had to come up with a somewhat odd way to do this. But this turned out good. After close measurements of the height of a kart, I bolted everything together. I than and simply tilted the body enough to roll the kart under it. This of cause had to be done step by step, before body is in complete level.

I decided to go with the 1.20” to the right of centerline offset. The position in length is of cause already known. Transmission cross member mount and transmission mount is less than a ¼ of an inch front or back. The only factor left is the height in the front of the block. I ended up with some 6” crank center line above k-member. I now have a good crankshaft centerline towards the pinion in the rear end. With block/bellhousing in place, the Ansen Bell that I´m going to use, just met the trans tunnel at two spots, and I had to let the BFH talk. If it hadn’t been for the ridges that are on the Ansen Bell, everything would have been fine without hammering.

Reason I chose the Ansen Bell was I do not like the look of the Lakewood in this build. The original steel Bellhousing is more like a cast bellhousing, but you don’t find one of these, so the Ansen Bell that was used in the ´66-67 SS cars is next best pick for me.

Picture of block/bell/trans on kart,
20160506_192612[1]testBlock.jpg
that can be rolled in and out under body

Any input is appreciated. Thanks…

Good to be back.

Stefan
 
20160505_185815_LLS[2]testMotorMountL.jpg
Left side motor mount. So far so good. Steering box reinforcement need more trimming to accept the K-frame bracket. K-frame is slide into place after block is in right possession
 
20160505_185559[1]testTrans.jpg
After third attempt, trans cross member bolts, was put in place with ease. Not any load can be applied on the body, since it´s hanging in the rotisseries, but yet still has to be exactly in the right possession as if car was on the ground...
 
To make sure body rests in same possession each time I have tilted it to get the kart out, I have simpel 2X4 bars under, for the body to rest on...
20160509_212423[1]trästolpstöd.jpg
 
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This is what the engine compartment looks like right now. Of cause I wasted no time to see what the centerpiece would look like when placed on the table :)
20160503_212246_LLS[1]RadTest.jpg
 
Hello there. Looks like your having a good time there. Things that you might want to look at before you go much further. I too built a Hemi Dart and these are the things that I did and it helped out a bunch.

Headers, TTI has a real nice set of headers for these cars. I believe these set the engine 1" to the passengers side....not 1.20. I urge you to look at there we'd sit to check this for sure. Nobody but TTI makes a quality set of headers for these cars and it will save you thousands of dollars buying these headers and setting the engine in a location to ocomindate them instead of having a custom set built.

Steering column. The bottom tube of the steering column needs to be trimmed down to clear the corner of the cylinder head. This is what the factory did and I had to do the same thing. Easy to do.....pull the plastic bearing out, trim off 1.500, file smooth, drill new holes for the plastic bearing and reinstall.

Hope this helps, Troy
 
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