Starter Problem

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Whoa!

Ok, you are dealing with a bad ring gear.

I had no idea that you had a 360 connected to a self balanced flexplate and torque converter at one point.

Look at where the other starter broke. right at the tip, where the index is.

Look at your video again. If you watch this ring gear make it's passes, pay no attention to the starter engaging at all. Just watch the ring gear and pay attention to the outer edge of the teeth.

You will notice an uneven wear pattern ground along the outer edge of the teeth. This is from your 360 running without that counterbalanced flexplate that you now have, with the big notch cut out of it.

I'm willing to bet at this point, you still have mild vibration issues that follow engine RPM, from the starter ring gear being sheared at one end, from this engine swap, counterbalancing problem.

Time for a new ring gear and you really should check your transmission bellhousing for damage, due to the last starter breaking right at the index.

I don't know

The starter gear is "bouncing" at the start of the video. This seems to me to be an electrical problem, either in the starter, or just poor cables/ connections.

I think his electrical is sound. If you watch it bounce, it bounces to the compression of the engine. I think this is happening because the teeth of the starter are engaging shallow. Once the teeth of the ring gear surpass the speed of the starter gear teeth, it should have a reverse corkscrew effect on the starter gear and aid the gear back out of it's path, as you disengage the starter motor with the ignition switch. I think this thing bounces because the starter gear isn't always contacting the teeth of the ring gear solid, so it wants to go back on itself when the compression of the engine releases, each time you hear it reciprocate.

If you actually had "wrong parts" IE wrong converter, etc, the thing would simply not be able to engage at all.

There is only one bolt pattern for all gear drive starters, period, end of story.

Mopar starters are not designed to need shims. This is a "GM thing."

Completely agree. Factory has one starter pattern, just like the GM starters do on the engine. There are custom bellhousings and starters for different starter and ring gear applications that I have seen use adjustable cups in bellhousings as well as collars for some aftermarket starters, which is why I suggested checking the index.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I think this torque converter needs a new ring gear, because of it being used on a self balanced flexplate with a 360. It took out the last starter and took damage itself.
 
First thx you guys i knew its bad news but i have to change it and then it will work or i can write 10 sites more and the problem will still be there:twisted: i take it easy now, but how to change a converter ring is it not welded to the converter? it is a converter which was choosen from my transmission guy from ptc and it was exactly built for my data engine and so on.....

Why you say a self made felxplate?? i have that one installed now!

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P4529751AB/10002/-1

And before i had that one installed, it cames with the motor i dont knew why maybe the seller had an externall ballanced converter or so on...
http://prestoliteperformance.com/flexplate-sfi-rated-340.html

Read here if you are insterested
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=198394

P.S. Thx all you guys i really love this forum, thx alot for helping me out!
 
Gear sits .86 off the mounting plane idle and extends to 1.33 at full throw, with a .47 inch throw. Ring gear width is less than .50 so you should get full engagement if everything lines up as designed. My starter was a reman. Not sure if the core was OEM.
 
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