"stock" 70 duster

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dusterbd13

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Mar 16, 2008
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albemarle, nc
i figure since ive been postying stuff, and showing pictures here abd there of the car, ill do a progress thread to bring y'all up to speed on the car and keep you updated on changes and progress.


my father got it for my from a guy in south carolina when i was 14. the dealership sticker on the taillight panel was stamford conneticut. when purchased, it was a 318, 3 on the floor, 3.23 sure grip car. deluxe interior, deluxe wheel covers, numbers matching, somewhat origonal. also not a straight panel, good interior piece, or not worn out part on it. we paid 600 for it, and that was 1996. my father started to tech me how to work on cars on this vehicle, as well as taught me how to drive in it.
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these pictures show the car after the first 600 paint and body job. all bondo, man. but i was in highshcool, and thats what i could afford. looked great with good wax and armorall. we also "restord" the interior so it would be nice to drive. there are also picture of my first engine swap at the age of 16. after driving the car for a few months, i managed to kill the 318. dad picked up a 360 out of a PA cop car from a friend of his in Kane, PA. i actually got to play hookie from school to drive to PA to pick up my engine. ran pretty good, until i killed it.
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in 2000, i was being a moron, running hard with a buddy of mine hight behind me. a person pulled ou in front, i slammed on my brakes, he didnt. pushed the back end in 18 inches. trashed everything from the doors back. at that point, i almost left the car for dead.
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in 2003, i decided to bring the car back. i swapped on some discs off of a 73 duster, big bolt back axles, and 15 inch wheels and tires. then i started the body work. i did my best for a year or so, welding in th subframe connectors, new floor pans, trunk pan, taillight panel, quarters, and starting the mudwork on the front fenders and doors. that was before i learned that i could do metalwork, but havent the patience or feel for mud and paint. so i blew it completely apart so a friend of mine could do a paintjob and finish the bodywork for me in 04.
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a year and a half later, the car was in worse shape than i dropped it off in. he had gotten married, took a promotion, moved, and had a kid. the car sat. so my dad and i got it back, and took it to roger hatly, a guy in my church that does bodywork. he finished the body, and took it to micky culp to do the final blocking and painting. in march of 06, it was returned. took 4 trips to get all the parts back to the shop.
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i rebuilt it slowly. did dynamat and my wife added foil backed jute to the entire interior. we reused the carpet from when i drove it in high school, and had medlin's upholstery put in the headliner. the dash grew up from the red painted stocker (what was i thinking) to a 69 cuda bezel loaded with autometer gauges. i used a dash cap on the pad due to financial constraints. after the dashwas wired and installed, as well as most of the firewall components hung, north state auto glass put in the front and back glass for me. after that, i wired up the whole back of the car with an EZ wiring kit i picked up at the swap meet. stopped at the firewall bulkhead. then i slid under the car for a while. refinished the gas tank, refinished all the rear suspension components that i had done poorly before the paint and body. i reused the 3.91 sure grip. put new bearings on the moser axles, and swapped on 11X3 finned drums from a cop car. hung an addco 7/8 rear bar. 6 leaf 340 springs, and KYB shocks on it. used stainless hard and flex lines throughout. hung the back bumper and taillights that came with my rear clip after making them look as good as possible, and wired up the trunk mounted battery and external kill switch.
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we then moved into the interior, finishing that by putting in the seats, door glass and regulators, weatherstripping, stereo, heater, etc. most of the parts are either cleaned up and recycled from the origonal interior, or gotten for cheap off something else. the door panels are actually 72 pieces that were blue, and re-dyed. kick panels are cut for blaupunkt component speakers, front bech was covered in JC whitney upholstery in high school, and a grant steering wheel that i liked on the shelf at autozone. the interior was intentionally left to look mostly stock. thats why the shift light mechanism is hid in the glove compartment, etc. didint want to deviate much on how it looked as my first car.
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as all this was going on, we decided to "freshen" the motor. my dad and i tore it down. knew we were in trouble when we found large pieces of ring and piston in the oil pan. wound up with 3 flat lobed, 1 cracked piston, 6 broken rings, and two sucked valves. i beat that motor to death. the only salvageble things in it were the block, crank, and timing chain cover. even the distributor was worn. so we dropped it off at the machine shop and ordered eagle i beam rods, forged probe pistons, a comp solid roller, edelbrock victor jr, and a set of indy modified edelbrock heads. i had Kevco make me an oil pan with a crank scraper, windage tray, and all sorts of trap doors and bafffles. spent a while cleaning up casting flash and modifying a set of stock valve covers to clear the vlavetrain.
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i rebuilt the front suspension again, this time using 11.75 rotors from a cordoba, 76 duster calipers, 73 duister spindles and steering linkage, boxed lower control arms, american muscle adjustable strut rods, poly bushings, KYB shocks, braided stainless lines, big block torsion bars, addco 1 1/8 sway bar, and a diplomat power steering setup.
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my dad and i dropped in the motor with through bolted mounts and stock brackets after it was painted. we used a spec stage 2+ clutch, stock flywheel, and lakewood bellhousing. backed it up with the 4 speed from high school, stirred by a swap meet hurst shifter. used an internally regulated 105 amp GM alternator, summit fuel pump, high flow water pump, and aluminum radiator. wound up with cooling fans from an 80's new yorker. we also used TTI ceramic coated headers and a 3 inch TTI x-pipe exhause with dynomax mufflers. the first carb was a 600 edelbrock, but we couldnt get it to idle with the cam, and now its a 750 holly double pumper with a one inch four hole spacer. all this is under a 17 340 air cleaner.
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soo thats what it looked like B4.

so all that was done when you were a kid..how old are you now?
 
we bolted the front sheetmetal on, using a flat bolt on fiberglass hood, 73 duster fenders, and the best grille we could find.
we are now in the shakedown/cleanup/make it work better stage. it doesnt handle like i want it to, the interior needs some more attention, bumpers need rechromed, and it needs tuned in. other details need to be adressed too. hope y'all like it.
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Michael[/COLOR
 
since i wrote all this, i have wound up swapping the diplomat steering box for a FFI stage 3, and absolutely love it. i have never driven a nicer steering system in an older car. it honestly steers like my Mazdaspeed. still need to get the alignment dialed in, and swap to 17's to shorten the sidewalls, as well as fix the speedo, regear to 3.55, and redo the front seats and carpets again.
but, its alweays something, ain't it?

Michael
 
i finished the car in september. i am now 26. i went to college, strated a career, got married, and bought a house while building that car. did it all with money made fom fixing other peoples stuff in between. so i hoe that answers your question, Mrtires.

Michael
 
well, ive still got this car. it was up for sale for a little while due to my daugters medical bills, but we made it work before the car sold, so i got to keep it.

ive been driving it a lot lately. to work, to daycare, to my second job, to church, etc. almost a nice day daily.

that has uncovered teething problems, as well as things i just dont like and annoy me.

1. the speedo didnt work. after moving some wires around to eliminate the interference, and regrounding it, it works for the first time since the resto. its amazing what RPM i have to run to run the speed limits. which brings me to
2. the gears are just too stiff. at 3000RPM, with 28 inch tall tires, im doing 60 MPH. thats just rediculous. so i worked out a deal with hollis over at HP engines that im trading my 3.91's and 2.76 open diffs for a fresh 3.55 sure grip unit. clutch type. im excited. ill post pic when i get it from him.
3. i blew out another drivers side header gasket. ill be putting coppers in that side when i get the chance.
4. my alignemnt sucks. the pass side tire is rubbing the fender from where the last alignment tech lengthened the adjustable strut rod. i believe im going to try to align this thing myself. i do GM stuff all the time, as well as all my other cars, so i "should" be able to do this one.
5. ive had some electrical gremlins pop up. sub, drivers side brake light, and alternator all quit working at various times. alternator was a slipping pully from where the nut loosened. sub was a bad ground, and i havnt figured out the taillight yet. im thinking turn signal switch.
6. the shifter is vauge. its a hurts comp shifter, with the stops all set up, new bushings, shimmed for a good fit on the rids, etc. done right, just vauge. ill be looking for another solution at some point.
7. the hood prop rod needs reengineered. its a POS.


the only other real update is that i test fit a set of 17 inch mustang bullit wheels. i like them, and they fil really well without any spacers or anything. the rear will need a small spacer just for looks, as theyre a little too far in. as soon as i find a good set for a good price, ill be grabbing them. im also converting from manual to power brakes, as i jsut get tired of the leg effort required to stop this thing.

jsut wanted to let you know the car didnt slip into obscurity or get sold.

look for updates as i work on it.

Michael
 
got the header asket done.

the TTI's have a known problem when they are bolted to heads that are ported to fel-pro gasket size. mine are. the current fix is to have the sealing bead welded in a different location and then milled back to flat. i really DON'T want to do that if i can help it. so my idea is (and we will see how it works) is to use a smaller sized copper gasket put in "wrong".

heres the carbon tracing on the head:
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and the nuked gaskets i pulled out. i ran a set like these (fel-pro exhaust manifold gaskets for a 360) on my old blackjacks for years, as well as the hedmans in my old 84 ram. never leaked.
the ones off the TTI's
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my idea on the undersized gaskets is that the embossed lip fits inside the port opening of the fel-pro gaskets. my theory is that the copper is thick enough to seal the header to the head withput the bead of weld. i turned the ebossed lip inwards so it would slip into the port on the head. on the initial fire up, is sealed. no carbon tracing yet. im going to heat cycle it a few more times before i put the locks back on and see how well it works. if it doesnt, i find another solution. next step is a 1/16 steel plate with the proper brading on one side, using the port opening dimensions of the TTI headers. use a pair of gaskets cemented to each side. it should theoreticaly be a bolt on soltion id the copper gasket doesnt work.

heres some pics showing the fit difference between the summit coppers and the fel-pro's.
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michael
 
Thank you for a great story and the work you and your dad spent together doing it :cheers: Skipped school eh!! =P~=P~ To good 8)

Welcome Michael, Glad you jumped in and joined us here at this great site.:cheers:
 
car looks real good. nice clean build. now did you try the 17x8 with a tire or just a rim? i needed 3/4" minimum spacer on my bone stock duster with factory 8 1/4.
 
with tire. plenty of clearance all around. i know that with the 9's and the 05+ stuff has a lot more backspacing. this one fit perfect with a 245/45 on it.
 
do you know what bs they were? there is another guy on here that said they fit his duster with no spacer, everyone else needed a spacer. im curious.
 
spnt a few hours swapping in my new 3.55 suregrip unit.
id have taken pictures, but nothing visually changed.


i still have some noise from the rear that i cant find. ill keep working on it. im beginning to think pass side wheel bearing.


also working on a trade for an 800 CFM eddy carb with a choke to get rid of this crappy holley while i scrounge the rest of the parts i need for my sleeper EFI conversion.


have to gove feedback on the 3.55 though. cruise RPM at 70 is 3000, versus the same RPM at 60. the midrange feels much better, and the gears seem to match the sweetspots in the powerband better than the old 3.91 set.

the headers are still not leaking.

thats it for the update.
 
spnt a few hours swapping in my new 3.55 suregrip unit.
id have taken pictures, but nothing visually changed.


i still have some noise from the rear that i cant find. ill keep working on it. im beginning to think pass side wheel bearing.


also working on a trade for an 800 CFM eddy carb with a choke to get rid of this crappy holley while i scrounge the rest of the parts i need for my sleeper EFI conversion.


have to gove feedback on the 3.55 though. cruise RPM at 70 is 3000, versus the same RPM at 60. the midrange feels much better, and the gears seem to match the sweetspots in the powerband better than the old 3.91 set.

the headers are still not leaking.

thats it for the update.

The word EFI has me very interested in this car and your build.
 
think junkyard sorced, rebuilt, hidden EFI.

it will be a while, as money's tight. but i already have a harness to start with, and an ECM. as well as a fuel pump, AFPR, and some of the sensors.
 
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