will CLR hurt the Aluminum any?
Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
- Start date
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I see threadlock on there. Yep, some heat might do wonders.
Also did you try to tighten first with a old school impact driver to shock it then try it to loosen it.
Only the corrosion, tidy bowl can make it pourous if left on to long. Like two min max with a carb body. Then rinse, rinse, rinse, then neutralize it with say baking soda a few times.
Once you shock it if it is only that it breaks loose sounds like a combo.
It grew together.
Chris what does that pins part of it go into? Steel?
The pins screw into the aluminum case, the purpose is to act as a guide to keep the shift forks from moving vertically. The pin part rides in an elongated groove on the shift forks
No, that I have not tried
One last idea can you hit it with kroil from the inside and flip it so it goes onto the pin side from the inside if that makes sense? Prob take a day or so to work.
They free or rusted to it?
the thread lock is an aftermarket thing. Tremec from the factory, uses an epoxy instead.
they are completely free
Worst case scenario, a BADP and drill it then hopefully you can save the threads? Or if all else fails a good machine shop prob have it out in no time.
I'm highly considering the latter should these bits not do it.
Then you can return the bits................NOT..........
Still not welded in designed to be removed. Has to be corroded together. All our fasteners had epoxy on them with no real issues except if corroded, sucked with the Pavehawks always low over the ocean.Stupid Mo Fo's!
Nah, never know, may need them again at some point (they are actually the same size for the Torx bolts on my Jeep too)
Be smarter than the bit you have another issue. Could also be gaulled? That was stupid on whoever put it together then.
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after three bits...….
MomsDuster
Well-Known Member
yeah, I just gotta find a machine shop, the one good one in town, burnt down and is still rebuilding
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