Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Mopar Tim said:
As long as it is warm while I am there in a few weeks....
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Get out the weather dartboard, lol. Our weather is always a yo-yo. And October-November are some of the least predictable. 'Normal' high then is probably 70's. But light snow in October is not uncommon, and I was doing bondo on the Duster in the driveway wearing a t-shirt Christmas week several years ago.
 
Mopar Tim said:
I thought the only difference is the heads....intake ETC.
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heads, cam, intake, exhaust etc. block is also different in the oil passages, the LA is very close, block is also thicker in the poly.
 
George Jets said:
Mattax, have seen that before. It's usually because there was not enough contact cement applied to both weatherstrip and the trunk flange surface.

People will put the weatherstrip adhesive only on the rubber weatherstripping and stick it on wet . . not exactly right.

Follow the outline in Post 296160 with @Bills65Dart

If you want to get the rubber weather strip to stick really good, apply 2 coats of Contact Cement to the weatherstrip adhesive side and 2 coats to the trunk flange. Letting each coat air dry for 10 minutes before applying the 2nd coat. After the 2nd coat on the parts let the whole thing air dry 15 minutes to flash off and tack up. Then you can stick it down next, it is quite permanent. Provided you have cleaned the surfaces with a fast dry enamel reducer to prepare them for the adhesives.

Good to have a second pair of hands to hold the glued weatherstrip 4 inches up off the trunk flange, while the next person carefully sticks it down in a straight line without stretching it. Want to get the length right doing this, a little push or pull on the weatherstrip is ok while sticking it down to get the length to come out just right. This is where the second pair of hands come in real handy.

Good Luck . . and yes we want to help you keep the water out of the trunk . . .
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Hi and thank you.

I found this too: trunk seal install

The car came up here without any seal at all. And the paint has not been clear coated either. I think I bought the trunk lid seal and door seals from Rock Auto. Hope it works. As long as I am not driving the car in rain, or little or no wind when raining I guess I am safe.


Bill
 
Bills65Dart said:
Hi and thank you.

I found this too: trunk seal install

The car came up here without any seal at all. And the paint has not been clear coated either. I think I bought the trunk lid seal and door seals from Rock Auto. Hope it works. As long as I am not driving the car in rain, or little or no wind when raining I guess I am safe.


Bill
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Water gets in the trunk thru other places, like rust holes around the back window, I think the trunk pinch weld does a good job of preventing water ingress....
 
Mopar Tim said:
Water gets in the trunk thru other places, like rust holes around the back window, I think the trunk pinch weld does a good job of preventing water ingress....
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oh, but I mean, the trunk lid seal will not help keeping water out that comes in other places. We have had rain 2 mornings this week, but well, maybe I should go and look to see if there are any water in the trunk.

Bill
 
@Mopar Tim

I had to look where Vista is,... oh boy, you are far south. I have not been that far south in the entire world. Furthest south I have been is at that restaurant just south of Disneyland.

Bill
 
Bills65Dart said:
oh, but I mean, the trunk lid seal will not help keeping water out that comes in other places. We have had rain 2 mornings this week, but well, maybe I should go and look to see if there are any water in the trunk.

Bill
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What I meant was, I think no matter how you install the seal, it will do its job. Lots of other ways to get water in there...
 
Mopar Tim said:
What I meant was, I think no matter how you install the seal, it will do its job. Lots of other ways to get water in there...
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Yeh, make sure it closes any gaps in the metal flange ‘wall’. I would agree the actual sealing to the lid is secondary
 
Welcome to the shop of 1000 profanities...
Where do i begin?
72 challenger. U-joint. Grease fitting in bearing cup. Not tapped. Or even drilled to right size. Take carbide burr and enlarge hole to accept 1/4” fine tap. Good thing i have a few high quality taps around. It was a day to wait for another u-joint.

2005 impala ,needed a new resonator.
Had to weld on a 4” piece because walker doesent make a direct replacement, have to buy rest of exhaust or improvise.

57 leaf springs,eyes are on top instead of on bottom.
Centre pin is nearly 1” too far forward. I waited 3 weeks for these, got hammered for freight and they will not work. New customer, 4 or 5 collector cars and i come off looking like an idiot. Im pissed...
 
Tooljunkie said:
Expanding insulating foam in a spray can. Its adhesive. Guaranteed trunk will seal. But never open again...
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Works good as a rust repair in quarter panels, spray it in, carve the correct body lines, a little Bondo, some paint, Wa la! All fixed!! Time for a rust free quick flip:lol:
 
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