Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Thanks, and great meeting you at Daves the other day. Nice Cuda. :thumbsup:
Thanks Tim. You did the hard work.
'67 parts book says the answer yes. Same backing plate as the A-body 10 x 1.75
Drum p/n 2543 173 for 6 cylinder b-body execpt sta wagon.
2460 637 other b-bodies w/ 10" rear drums - those are probably the wider ones
 
@Mopar Tim hey Tim, what kind of coolant is in the '66? It is going down to 20* tomorrow night and want to make sure I'm not going to have any issues.
 
@Mopar Tim hey Tim, what kind of coolant is in the '66? It is going down to 20* tomorrow night and want to make sure I'm not going to have any issues.
Good idea Dave. Shame on me. Popped the cap on the 66 in I can't remember how long. Same coolant since the engine build 10 years ago. Time for a change.
 
69 340 intake work on a 80’s 318? Asking for a friend.....
 
I wish it was Spring instead of the start of Winter. I'm itching to work on the '66.

Either that, or I wish I had a bigger garage...
 
You should send me the pic of your car that's in your avatar for the calendar.
Wow gosh, I'm honored. I'll send you a PM or email.
Hey Matt, what number is on the side of your car in your avatar pic?
Lemme look. 46
This is what the avatar actually looked like. :LOL:
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Just a slightly smaller version of this.
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They were all shot by Robert Plafta at our first rallycross, but his old website is down right now . Don't worry, I also downloaded what were then normal size photos.
 
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I just bought them. bottomless pit I'll tell you....
The '69? Nah, you will get it right before too long. It took me 2 years of work to get my GTS to the point where it isn't sucking my wallet dry every time I look at it...although, the spending will likely never stop until I sell it. I've got another $3k in upgrades planned already. LOL!

Of course, like a true Mopar junkie..I just had to by the '66 to keep my wallet slim...
 

The '69? Nah, you will get it right before too long. It took me 2 years of work to get my GTS to the point where it isn't sucking my wallet dry every time I look at it...although, the spending will likely never stop until I sell it. I've got another $3k in upgrades planned already. LOL!

Of course, like a true Mopar junkie..I just had to by the '66 to keep my wallet slim...
So true.
 
Hey Matt did you have to do a lot to the suspension to compete in Auto cross?
In retrospect, not really. At the time, it seemed like an endless effort.
The long winded version is on my website. But the short of it is this:
Parts
Big torsion bars. Started with 1.03, now 1.09"
Front anti-sway bar. 1.125"
200 "/lb asphalt track rear leafs with 5" free arch IIRC.
for autocross, spring hanger change so the front eye is higher than stock.
for rallycross and crappy roads, stock position.
Good shocks. Mine are SPAX but there are easier to obtain options now.
Polyurethane strut rod bushings measured and cut to fit.
That's really about it in terms of suspension parts.
I did try to stiffen the body, and I'm sure it helped a little. The frame connectors need to be replaced as they've rusted through. Current rules allow a third attachement point, so that may help.

Steering is 16:1 manual box. That's works reasonably well with some technique.
Competition tires are generally 225/50-15. Just switched to 235/50r15 Toyo R888s this year. I'd say tires, shocks and sway bar are the most important items needed.
Eventually I'm going to experiment with some softer rear leafs and a small rear sway bar.
 
In retrospect, not really. At the time, it seemed like an endless effort.
The long winded version is on my website. But the short of it is this:
Parts
Big torsion bars. Started with 1.03, now 1.09"
Front anti-sway bar. 1.125"
200 "/lb asphalt track rear leafs with 5" free arch IIRC.
for autocross, spring hanger change so the front eye is higher than stock.
for rallycross and crappy roads, stock position.
Good shocks. Mine are SPAX but there are easier to obtain options now.
Polyurethane strut rod bushings measured and cut to fit.
That's really about it in terms of suspension parts.
I did try to stiffen the body, and I'm sure it helped a little. The frame connectors need to be replaced as they've rusted through. Current rules allow a third attachement point, so that may help.

Steering is 16:1 manual box. That's works reasonably well with some technique.
Competition tires are generally 225/50-15. Just switched to 235/50r15 Toyo R888s this year. I'd say tires, shocks and sway bar are the most important items needed.
Eventually I'm going to experiment with some softer rear leafs and a small rear sway bar.
All sounds right to me. 50 year old solid rear axle technology has limits in what you can make it do to handle. The rest is up to the driver. My personal preference is to make the rear balance the front end stiffness so it at least predictable in the turns with changing loads. I'd rather have more forgiveness is the front than the back. If I can do controlled rear drifting while keeping the front solid, I'm a happy camper.
 
Well,looks like im going for a ride saturday, guy is saving the intake for me. Figure 75 is a fair price?
I think it is.
 
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