Stupid question? Can I replace my torsionbars and leafsprings for coilovers?

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kma

kma

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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In front I cant see no issues ? Correct me if I´m wrong.
In back I must save at least one leaf to hold the axle. Is this the way to do instead of changing the whole construction ?
 
No, and yes;
and why would you want to?
Our Mopars have one of the finest oem suspensions of the era and beyond.
You would have to spend a lot of money, and or do a lot of work, to have coilovers at both ends.
And when the shocks wear out; more work.

Mopars were specifically designed to get away from coilovers.
They were designed so that the shocks can be shocks and the springs can be springs.
 
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There's a lot more to it then pulling the shocks and bolting in coil overs. The front aprons on these cars are not strong enough to support the weight of the car nor will the rear unibody shock crossmember. They'll self destruct. If you study some of the bolt in systems out there you'll see how they address this issue with a custom K-frame up front , and weld in crossmembers etc. in the rear. Gerst, Magnumforce, Rms to name a few.

Not cheap or easy.
 
AJ/FormS said:
No, and yes;
and why would you want to?
Our Mopars have one of the finest oem suspensions of the era and beyond.
You would have to spend a lot of money, and or do a lot of work, to have coilovers at both ends.
And when the shocks wear out; more work.

Mopars were specifically designed to get away from coilovers.
They were designed so that the shocks can be shocks and the springs can be springs.
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Ok , good point. I give up the front.

Nick L said:
RMS out of the states has all the swap components including a 4link rear.
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Too damn expensive.

GeorgeH said:
There's a lot more to it then pulling the shocks and bolting in coil overs. The front aprons on these cars are not strong enough to support the weight of the car nor will the rear unibody shock crossmember. They'll self destruct. If you study some of the bolt in systems out there you'll see how they address this issue with a custom K-frame up front , and weld in crossmembers etc. in the rear. Gerst, Magnumforce, Rms to name a few.

Not cheap or easy.
Click to expand...

Was thinking of HemiDenny´s support hoops but give up the front.

So guys. What do you think about the rear? Is it possible?
I want to lower the car without lowering blocks mostly for the looks. Today I have 1" but it is not enough in my opinion. I have bought 3" blocks so if the car goes too low I can machine them down
 
Lowered just for looks?
Cheapest of all is to just have the rear springs de-arched

That cost me about a hundred bucks in 1978,lol. Those springs have followed me from car to car ever since

Edit; 1971
 
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kma said:
Ok , good point. I give up the front.



Too damn expensive.



Was thinking of HemiDenny´s support hoops but give up the front.

So guys. What do you think about the rear? Is it possible?
I want to lower the car without lowering blocks mostly for the looks. Today I have 1" but it is not enough in my opinion. I have bought 3" blocks so if the car goes too low I can machine them down
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The 1" block is what I want for my rear, I just did the RMS upper control arms and adjustable strut rods A+++, the car actually drives straight and takes bumps without bumpsteer well worth $700 for them two components. I agree the whole swap thing is like $7000 to get here and that's just the front, mind you, it would feel like a brand new car.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Lowered just for looks?
Cheapest of all is to just have the rear springs de-arched

That cost me about a hundred bucks in 1978,lol. Those springs have followed me from car to car ever since
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Mostly for looks , yes. I have thought of the de-arching. Try out a rideheight and after that , de-arch.

67Dart273 said:
Before you go through all this, look at this. This is a leaf spring rear............It's been over 180 in the 1/8th........I haven't kept up on the latest from them..........

Obsession and Inspiration: Jason Digby and Lyle Barnett teamed up to take down the Leaf Spring record at Lights Out 8 - Hot Rod Network

Dominant Dodge: Jason Digby's 1969 Leaf Spring Dodge Dart

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Seen that. Awesome :steering:
 
Nick L said:
The 1" block is what I want for my rear, I just did the RMS upper control arms and adjustable strut rods A+++, the car actually drives straight and takes bumps without bumpsteer well worth $700 for them two components. I agree the whole swap thing is like $7000 to get here and that's just the front, mind you, it would feel like a brand new car.
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Was the control arms and strut rods for more and better adjustment possibilities?
 
AJ/FormS said:
Lowered just for looks?
Cheapest of all is to just have the rear springs de-arched

That cost me about a hundred bucks in 1978,lol. Those springs have followed me from car to car ever since
Click to expand...
LOL had to chuckle at that. Most of us are calling ESPO to order +1" over leaf springs because our *** is draggin'. :rofl::poke:
 
kma said:
In front I cant see no issues ? Correct me if I´m wrong.
In back I must save at least one leaf to hold the axle. Is this the way to do instead of changing the whole construction ?
Click to expand...

Forgot...... The reason I ask this is bacause I have front and rear coilovers on the shelf. They seem to be in right lengths
 
For what you want and the way you're trying to go about it, just go to Mexico and buy one that's already all fucked up.

Earth doesn't need another piece of **** like that, and then someone else can appreciate the fine machine that you have now.

And before you ask, no, they do not make a welded, really small, chrome-plated chain steering wheel to fit your car. You'll just have to learn how to take the handcuffs off.
 
The rear can easily be lowered with simple lowering blocks, not expensive at all
 
Hemi Denny has a kit to replace the torsion bars...I have one installed on our 71 Dart. And GT Suspension aka Gerst has one also, and I am using that kit on the 71 Duster..

Those kit tend to use specific coil of shocks...due to the limited space on the front end.
 
MileHighDart said:
Or you could buy the Hotchks rear springs, they will lower the rear.
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Also ESPO will make lowering springs.

No one has mentioned front leaf spring hangers with a higher bolt hole location. You can buy or make them. A 1" higher hole will lower the car 2" at the bumper. AR Engineering? I think Mancini Racing carries them.

Also old school way is to flip the front hangers upside down but you must elongate the mounting holes, not recommended but zero cost. Check your pinion angle after.
 
I just had my FirmFeel leafs shipped I wanted low and so I got -1. Call them or espo and they can make the springs for you. Or you can wait and I will send you my old /6 leafs, your bumper will be on the ground though. FirmFeel where 550 and 220 for the Bilistien shocks.
 
loganscuda said:
I just had my FirmFeel leafs shipped I wanted low and so I got -1. Call them or espo and they can make the springs for you. Or you can wait and I will send you my old /6 leafs, your bumper will be on the ground though. FirmFeel where 550 and 220 for the Bilistien shocks.
Click to expand...

Wow firm feel springs were $550!
ESPO is much more affordable.
 
KosmicKuda said:
Also ESPO will make lowering springs.

No one has mentioned front leaf spring hangers with a higher bolt hole location. You can buy or make them. A 1" higher hole will lower the car 2" at the bumper.
Click to expand...
I think you might have that backwards. If you’re moving just the front mount up 1 inch, I think that’s only going to lower the car 1/2”
Someone correct me if I’m wrong
 
toolmanmike said:
LOL had to chuckle at that. Most of us are calling ESPO to order +1" over leaf springs because our *** is draggin'. :rofl::poke:
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The year was 1971, and I was in grade 11. I had earned the nickname of "Ditcher", on account of my car was often seen in them, sometimes with a load of teenagers pushing.
The car was a 1970 Swinger340/4-gear/3.55s..
I had to do something about that.
I had the rear springs de-arched for reduced side-sway, and better drift control, in the era when I was broke as broke could be. I had spent all my life's savings on half the purchase price, and the rest was on payments. But I also added a second main leaf;eye to eye.
Coupled with a lowered front, I found the 70 Swinger 340 seemed to handle better with those stinking Polyglass GTs.It didn't look very intimidating, but it did allright. When radials came in a year or two later, I was only too glad to get rid of those now bald factory E70-14s . That car also got custom-made slapper bars and 3-way adjustable shocks. It was no Corvette/MG/Sprite/TR6, or Miata; but the changes kept me outta the ditches....... for the most part. And I could at least keep up to those little sardine cans in the twisties. 'Course you know how 17 year-olds drive,eh; yeah, no, it wasn't always pretty.
 
OK, here is my $0.02 (although pretty much already covered). You obviously want the car to handle and corner better, right? I put a Hotchkiss sway bar on my 69 340 4 spd Barracuda and it made an amazing difference. The way I see it, you have a few options. If you do not already have a sway bar, I highly recommend the Hotchkiss sway bar. It does require welding. Then you could go with re-arched or new springs, complete new front end rebuild kit with poly urethane bushings and new shocks. Those upgrades would make the already pretty darn good Mopar setup a little better. If, however you want a quantum leap in cornering and handling, you are looking at about $7,000 or so if you went with the Reilly Motor Sports (RMS) front and rear suspension kits, but the change would be AMAZING. There are a lot of other things you can do like tubular control arms, but I don't think these will not yield a huge change in handling. Personally, I would just go with re-arched or new springs, complete new front end rebuild kit with poly urethane bushings and new shocks.
 
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