Subframe Connectors....buy or make?

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when I did my Volare (yeah I know, not an A body) I made my own. Yeah, it was 10+ years ago I know... but Id be surprised if I had $20 and 1/2 a day into the whole deal.
 
I've worked on a car with US Car Tool connectors. A huge pain to install parking brake cables (at least on this particular 1970 Charger) and had some problems with fuel lines. I'll continue to make my own.
 
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Dana67Dart said:
Wouldn't it be nice if they had a flanges running along the top where it meets the floor pans, would look super stock. Make the connector even more ridgid but still allow for some metal to metal flex / movement like origional spot welds do
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I made a set like described on a 69 Dart I had. Never took pics. I hand hammered them over a 4' piece of railroad track, traced out the floor contours on a piece of cardboard , added 3/4" to that and tediously hammered the flange. I know where the car is now and hope to take some pics at some point. I did it before cell phone cameras lol .
 
Those of you guys installing them while on a rotisserie, are you doing the work while the chassis is tipped on its side? If so, any concerns that you’re welding some preload into the structure?
 
I welded mine sitting flat on the rotisserie. I was concerned but luckily had no issues with suspension alignment and door alignment. Launches straight .But I do see your point.
My Ragtop never saw a rotisserie but Upper door gaps were closing up slightly after 200K Miles so I nervously hung the back suspension down then welded. Gaps came out the bomb. I was Leary and wouldn't recommend it. I was a bit lucky.
I would think doing the subframes sitting on the suspension 1st before putting on a rotisserie would be a better scenario .
 
MRGTX said:
Those of you guys installing them while on a rotisserie, are you doing the work while the chassis is tipped on its side? If so, any concerns that you’re welding some preload into the structure?
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Did mine sitting flat on a rotisserie as well. No issues, car sits perfectly flat, gaps are perfect. Car is finished now going on 4 years/5000miles and only one small repair where we attached the new roof section that a crack appeared.. That was 3 years ago. You do make an excellent point though and I may have just gotten lucky.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Yes well my Seam seal has a thin crack in the filler panel seam in front on trunk and between Qtrs..440/500 stroker no cage so I'm getting some twisting.
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I think you would get some twisting with that combo!
 
I am using the Hotchkiss, I like the way they fit and pretty easy to install. 1972 Plymouth Scamp 408ci, 904 trans, 8.75" Sure Grip.
 
flashsuperstar said:
I am using the Hotchkiss, I like the way they fit and pretty easy to install. 1972 Plymouth Scamp 408ci, 904 trans, 8.75" Sure Grip.
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you won't be sorry, same can't be said about the bank account thou
 
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