The Building of the Blue Mistic

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Just cut a slit on the bottom end on both sides, tap it with a BFH, cut down the sides and weld it.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
Just cut a slit on the bottom end on both sides, tap it with a BFH, cut down the sides and weld it.
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I talked with my buddy, that is what we are going to do. He is OCD, so he will probably not want the bend in there and will make a plate to fit instead for a uniform look.
 
Here are some pics of the rear diff cut and reweld. I did this about a year ago and there are the pics of around because it was in my other Dart. But it is being pulled and put in this one. Everything in this rear is TIG welded:

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A few more pictures for everyone. This is the HemiDenny K-Frame that is going in the car:

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And a pic of where I capped off the front side of the Rack and Pinion bolt tubes to prevent any dirt and water building up and rusting in there:
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And the coilover shocks upper mount support (Denny's Picture):
 

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I have decided against the minitub on my Dart. I was doing some measuring and found that the tubs are only 2 1/4" from the frame rails, and I am not drag racing it so it will not be needed and don't feel it is worth it. I just received the DoctorDiff spring offset kit, much better quality than I was expecting. I will take some pictures to show what I mean.
By doing this, I will gain enough room to put the 255/45/18's on the back that I already have. I am going to measure once I install the offset kit to see if I can get 9" wide rims in there (which I believe I can without any issues).
 
Just curious here, do you know if a 275 cross section tire fit in stock wells or would some massaging or fab be involved?

Oh-and even if you're not the one doing the fab specifically, I like the direction this project is headed. And after bouncing some emails back and forth with Denny, I believe I'll be using that same setup...just gotta save up some pennies and dimes.
 
txstang84 said:
Just curious here, do you know if a 275 cross section tire fit in stock wells or would some massaging or fab be involved?

Oh-and even if you're not the one doing the fab specifically, I like the direction this project is headed. And after bouncing some emails back and forth with Denny, I believe I'll be using that same setup...just gotta save up some pennies and dimes.
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If you go with Denny, you will not be disappointed. I went that route on a budget (as funny as that sounds). I went with the mustang II 2" drop spindles and went a little cheaper on the brakes. I used a kit with 11" drilled/slotted rotors. They are Ford Granada front rotors and GM metric calipers. I will post a pic of them for you.

As for the tires, I had a set of 275/35/20 tires here that I bought for mock up on my minitubbed 72 Dart. I did try to see if it would work. What I found with my 70 Dart with stock wheel tubs/spring location, is that it will not fit without having the springs moved in somewhat and the the fender lip modified some. I have read others that have trimmed the inner fender lip some and offset the springs to get them to fit. I think abodyjoe did this to fit his.
 
txstang84, here is the brake kit I used. It was $289 shipped. I also have a promo code to get an additional $25 off if you are interested. It comes with 7/16" and 1/2" studs and optional 4 1/2" or 4 3/4" bolt pattern

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What is also nice about using the Ford Explorer rear is that it also uses 11" rear disc. So, I ended up with 11" 4 wheel disc brakes.
 
Here is the DoctorDiff spring offset kit. The front brackets are bolted together (as you can see in the pic), and have two options to lower the car. I also like the fact that the bolt heads that are near the frame are flat and you do not have to dent or drill the frame for clearance. I read that you can switch the front brackets side to side and lower the car even more if wanted (just have to redrill bolt holes on the car). Also, not pictured, all bolts came with the kit. It was $162 shipped to my door, you can add perches for another $13.
 

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Man that is cool-thanks for the detailed reply! I'd like to do something in that vein, I'd just like to have as much tire I can in the rear as the power level I'm looking to achieve would turn 255 section tires into expensive clouds of smoke
 
txstang84 said:
Man that is cool-thanks for the detailed reply! I'd like to do something in that vein, I'd just like to have as much tire I can in the rear as the power level I'm looking to achieve would turn 255 section tires into expensive clouds of smoke
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Haha. My 340 with a 3000 stall converter and reverse manual valve body will be doing the same thing to the tires. I just don't want to do any cutting if I don't have to.
:burnout:
 
jrlegacy23 said:
Haha. My 340 with a 3000 stall converter and reverse manual valve body will be doing the same thing to the tires. I just don't want to do any cutting if I don't have to.
:burnout:
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Indeed it will! The powerplant I have in mind will push 400-425rwhp 8)
 
Heres what is in the motor:

1973 340 block
Motor bored .030” over
10.5 to 1 TRW forged pistons w/moly rings, rods resized and bushed w/floating wrist pins and new locks
Pistons and rods balanced
ARP bolts crank polished
Clevite 77 rod, crank, and cam bearings
Windage tray
Dynagear tru-roller timing chain
Crane cam 284/480 degreed
J heads, 3 angle valve job
Comp Cams locks and push rods
Mopar perf. valve springs and adj rocker arms
Edelbrock Torker II intake
Holley 750 CFM
Mopar perf. black alum. valve covers. Electronic ign. distr.
Carter fuel pump
Mellings oil pump
 
Sounds pretty solid to me-did you have a chance to put it on a dyno? Expected times?
 
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