The dummy and the diesel.........The Grey Whale

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Removing the 3-4 synchro hub was an absolute nightmare

FINALLY got that SOB off. Oxy/ Acet, the great big old Proto puller, and an impact. And then it came HARD. Must'ha been those "Murphy's" tolerances all adding up in the wrong direction. I ruinated the stop ring and probably the hub, but they are not terribly expensive. The shaft, if anyone needs a 2WD shaft, seems OK, as does the gear and other parts. Long day, but I think this is the worst of it
That puller is damn near as old as I am.

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Made a minor fecking score off egag. Scored two pair of puller jaws for the VERY expensive puller used for some of the bearings in the transmission "I can make the rest." Just a sleeve around the outside to hold them in place, and a collar in the recess at the rear, which connects to whatever for the extension out to the end of the shaft and the screw---I'm thinking EXHAUST TUBING. If I cant get a piece that fits the jaws, just slit and section it and weld it together

One of these pulls the big tapered bearing off the rear of the mainshaft gear stack
The other pulls the bearing off the cluster, and one or the other fits a couple other places in the gearbox, as well

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What the basic puller looks like. The collar at the bottem end is captured inside the rear of the jaws I'm thinking make a simple collar to insert into the jaw set, a simple exhaust pipe sleeve around them, and then weld tubing to the collar and out the back with a big *** nut for a puller bolt. "It won't be pretty."

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The why? This bearing separator hasn't enough clearance to engage the bearing. It is merely tearing up the roller cage

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It was gonna be such a "quick easy" morning job..................
Earlier I posted about how the U bolts for the rear axle had been rusted badly, and yesterday I got the 4 new ones from Pohl Spring in Spokane. When I went to rattle the nuts off, WATER fell out. Yeh. Well, these make GREAT bathtubs. So I drilled some big *** 5/8 drain holes in the damn things

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Gawd. Those u bolts were just designed to rust. Almost like it was intentional. lol
 
So I got the timing cover off to see "whut" about this KDP "Killer Dowel Pin" and it turns out mine had not been "fixed" but it also does not seem to have been becoming a problem. There's a teardrop shaped piece that goes over the top of the pin and is retained by a longer bolt replacing the one to the right of my finger. I fought with the fan clutch and finally unbolted the whole assembly. There's a bolt/ 10mm head, captive behind the pulley, neccesitating grinding down the box of a cheap 10mm wrench to slip it in between the pulley and bolt head. After that, EASY.
New gasket, new crank front seal, and toss it back together tomorrow morn.

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Man the days are gittin SHORT!!! Came in at 6:30 and it is substantially dark, really too dark to work without lights. Got the timing cover back on with the "Killer Dowel Pin" fix, and of course a new crank seal. They are weird. There's no shoulder in the bore, you have to be careful to get it square, and you are NOT supposed to pre-lube it--they specify the crank be DRY and CLEAN

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Internet photo of this lens. This is the "early" version called an "FL" fit the very first models of the Canon manual focus film cameras. The later "FD" series was used clear up to when they went to auto focus or "EF" lenses (Electronic Focus)

For those unaware, F1.2 is a HUGE "hole" through the lens, and allows for some near dark photography. There are few lenses that are "that good" in the world.

www.vintagelensesforvideo.com

Canon FL 55mm F1.2 REVIEW | Cheapest F/1.2 Lens!

Many of us desire to own at least one super fast lens! It doesn't really matter if it's worth it or not, we are just drawn to the speed and the idea of owning an F1.2 lens. The problem is that most of such lenses are pretty expensive, even the vintage ones, but in this review I'll be taking a...
www.vintagelensesforvideo.com www.vintagelensesforvideo.com

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Making an expensive "Miller Special Tool" puller for, well, less. The device is some sort of old Kent-Moore pin spanner socket, I searched the part no. on it and found nothing. Punched the pins, cut it off in the cut off saw, and went down and dusted off the old South Bend. Had to turn the collar down considerably, as well as face it narrower. Welded some 3/8 connector nuts on, cut some threaded rod, and used a balancer puller. I was going to use a chuck of 4" exhaust tubing for the sleeve, but I guess this town doesn't have an actual "muffler shop" anymore--just the big box brake/ front end/ tune up/ tire/ wheel/ and "muffler shops". So I tried a bunch of hose clamps (Damn things were 3.50 at HD!!)
Bought the jaws which fit a very expensive puller off egag for "reasonable" The "puller body" is some sort of Kent more tool
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The bearing separator will not engage the bearing because the bearing is shrouded into the "dished" gear behind it
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The puller (or part of it) that this mess replaces, and the two sets of jaws I bought off egag

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Dang Del, it seems like you’ve spent more time trying to get this transmission apart than you have getting the 4-wheel drive under the truck.
I hope you get this transmission fixed and installed in the chassis before the snow flies.
I’m enjoying this thread and watching you build one good truck out of two junkers. Keep up the good work.
 
I'm hoping to get the 5 speed on the way to "back together" this week end. I've done all kinds of searching on the internet and youtube. One big stumble was the 3-4 synchro hub which was REALLY on there. According to the manual, "remove it".

Finding those puller jaws on egag was an accident that really paid off
 
Not much to show today, but did get the last group of gears off the old shaft and that first group cleaned, ready to go onto the new shaft tomorrow. I "danced around" went to groceria, bought some parts, and scored this at a local thrift

A little pressure, hand pump brake bleeder for 6 bucks, several 1/2 extensions for .99 or less, and a pair of small but well built clamps for 1.99 ea

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Pretty good score at the thrift store! That extension 2nd from the right looks like somebody thought it was a pry bar! It's got a little lean to it on the male end....lol.
 
I'm gonna need that bleeder!!! Not only when I get the diesel coming together, but I have a brand new Dorman brake tube kit out back for that damned GMC Sierra and new hoses for it!!!

I forget the brand names of the extensions, all a couple are "Husky" and one is Craftsman.
 
Nothing much to show today but got some things done

Cleaned the clutch, flywheel and bell. All of the local "parts stores" claim they can NOT get "just a disc" and want to sell me a clutch kit for 450--600 bucks. I almost put the disc back in. It all looks great. But I found a USA disc and pilot bearing on Egag and ordered that. Already bought a Timken t/o bearing

This truck had (whatever it's called) load controlled brake valve, it's a valve in series with rear brake tube, and a mechanical operating link to the axle. There seems to have been a TSB about removing it. Bought a Raybestos "Professional Grade Plus" "NASCAR Endorsed" and it didn't fit the BRACKET. Had to file for a few minutes to get the fitting into the bracket. Interestingly, the bracket / hose is "keyed." The hose / bracket has most of a hex, but a couple of the "where flats" should be are rounded off like a half moon. Some Chinaman cannot use a mike

Fass pump is nearly as bad. Because of the way it's built you cannot put the hose fittings in any direction, which is why (ya'd thunk) we're using banjo fittings. Worse, the hose clamps supplied WON'T FIT around the OD of the hose, and the toy Wix filter they supplied is PLASTIC plus it's got 5/16 connections---for 3/8 hose. This is an inlet strainer, so I'm going to have to search around

Also they don't even provide the banjo bolts, expecting you (I guess) to rob them from the truck.

Also I removed the block off plate--which only adds leakage points--from the engine, and when I cut the supply line to insert the new pump, I slid the line forward so it would connect up directly to the pre-filter.
Pump is not yet wired, and the Fass destructions are not help there either. "I guess" you were supposed to plug it in where the old original lift pump was. When I get the cab in, I'll access those wires "if they work" and use them to trigger a Bosch relay, and run wire down to the new pump

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Finally figured out the fuel inlet strainer problem. Came up with an "ILFS-1" which is supposed to be a Fleetguard but is actually evidently a number dreamed up by FASS. What it REALLY is, is a Fleetguard FF-5079 which is a metal can, metal mess pre-strainer that LOOKS like a 3/8 inline fuel filter.

Wix number is 33270
 
Today not much "visual." FINALLY got started reassembling the 5 speed shaft amoungst some other nonsense, and got the shaft itself maybe half done. hope to wind the shaft assembly up tomorrow.
 
Thu, Oct 13, a bit of a milestone. Got the 5 speed assembled. I'm a bit "dead in the water" as I have a clutch disc/ pilot bearing coming---none of the so called local parts stores admit to being able to order a clutch disc, and want 500-600 for a "kit." The flywheel and PP are in great shape, and I ALMOST used the old disc.

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What's the specs on that disc? Spline count, shaft size, disc diameter....all that?
 
Have to look, Rob. The Cummins one sees to be somewhat "low production," it is larger shaft than the gas trucks. It's on the way, just "ain't here" yet.

Seems to be 1 1/4" x 10 spline, 12 1/4" dia.

Just checked with the "corporate" NAPA out in Post Falls, "We" just have the kits, "we" cannot order the disc.

I told him "we" are not going to be doing "anything."
 
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