Heck yeah Del! That's some REAL progress right there!
The dummy and the diesel.........The Grey Whale
- Thread starter 67Dart273
- Start date
-
Great progress Del. You should have that baby running and moving in a couple of days!
Today's "We are Stellantis and we ain't lettin you off easy" moment.............
Not much to show today. Tightened and rechecked some bolts, etc, got the radiator set in and fought with the lower hose for over 15 min, GEEZUZ. Got the power steering/ brake hydroboost reconnected.
I "thought I'd connect the parking brake" as I may not have hydraulics when I first want to move it. !!NO!! Turns out the 97 donor frame is different than the 01 "former" frame. The two photos are my original 2WD frame. The anchor bracket for the front parking cable---coming down from the cab--is this welded bracket, and the cable then feeds through the holes in the cab mount
BUT ON THE DONOR 97---that cab mount IS the anchor, and the cab cable is that much longer. I was thinking of torching the small bracket off and welding it to the "new" frame, but decided it would be easier to just build one--which I still have to do
Decent day today, although did not break high '40's F, did get some sun. Supposed to rain most of tomorrow....................
Not much to show today. Tightened and rechecked some bolts, etc, got the radiator set in and fought with the lower hose for over 15 min, GEEZUZ. Got the power steering/ brake hydroboost reconnected.
I "thought I'd connect the parking brake" as I may not have hydraulics when I first want to move it. !!NO!! Turns out the 97 donor frame is different than the 01 "former" frame. The two photos are my original 2WD frame. The anchor bracket for the front parking cable---coming down from the cab--is this welded bracket, and the cable then feeds through the holes in the cab mount
BUT ON THE DONOR 97---that cab mount IS the anchor, and the cab cable is that much longer. I was thinking of torching the small bracket off and welding it to the "new" frame, but decided it would be easier to just build one--which I still have to do
Decent day today, although did not break high '40's F, did get some sun. Supposed to rain most of tomorrow....................
This morning's time wastin' "procedure" or "why didn't I measure them? So there was a "2" label on the steering shaft on the "2WD" truck. But that one seemed to be in cleanest shape --and tight--so I left it on the steering box and mounted it in the "new" 4WD frame. This morning I discovered the "2" shaft was ..................."too" short!!!! Lovely finger gitter tryin to extract that thing off the steering box!!!
But I did get the rad connected, the turbo piping and air filter, and most the wiring. One idea REALLY helped........Removed the front tires, and lowered the lift so the axle is "on the ground." REALLY helped an old man's reach
But I did get the rad connected, the turbo piping and air filter, and most the wiring. One idea REALLY helped........Removed the front tires, and lowered the lift so the axle is "on the ground." REALLY helped an old man's reach
What's left at least "preliminary:"
1...Finish wiring and hookups in engine bay, and rewire lift pump wiring to a relay to operate the new FASS lift pump
2...Bug the junk yard "did they" get a transfer case shifter found/ pulled?
3...Drop shift lever back into 4 speed
4...Fabricate the anchor for the parking brake and connect same
5...Get running and check engine operation, etc, and "get moveable."
6....Reinstall bed and reinstall rear harness, tail lamps, backup camera wiring and tow lights connections
7...Deal with the bumpers mess--the brackets between the two frames are different
8...If all the above goes well START REBUILD ON FRONT AXLE. Pull hubs, rotors, replace inner axle seals, knuckle U-joints and inspect and or replace hub bearings. Swap rotors over from other axle, turn them. Buy new calipers and hoses and connect all that and --------bleed the entire brake system.
9....Inspect, evaluate and replace worn steering links reset toe and "gingerly" work up to some speed on a test drive, AKA "Dodge death wobble."
1...Finish wiring and hookups in engine bay, and rewire lift pump wiring to a relay to operate the new FASS lift pump
2...Bug the junk yard "did they" get a transfer case shifter found/ pulled?
3...Drop shift lever back into 4 speed
4...Fabricate the anchor for the parking brake and connect same
5...Get running and check engine operation, etc, and "get moveable."
6....Reinstall bed and reinstall rear harness, tail lamps, backup camera wiring and tow lights connections
7...Deal with the bumpers mess--the brackets between the two frames are different
8...If all the above goes well START REBUILD ON FRONT AXLE. Pull hubs, rotors, replace inner axle seals, knuckle U-joints and inspect and or replace hub bearings. Swap rotors over from other axle, turn them. Buy new calipers and hoses and connect all that and --------bleed the entire brake system.
9....Inspect, evaluate and replace worn steering links reset toe and "gingerly" work up to some speed on a test drive, AKA "Dodge death wobble."
He's gearing up for the Dart?
Between all the boats and truck work, he could have built the Dart 3 times and drove across country once in it and built it again. lol
I really am in awe of the dedication Del has when he sets his mind to it.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
I'm guessing because 2wd sucks when the ice and snow set in for half the year up here. With 4wd, it's a lot easier to get unstuck.
I've wound up with multiple vehicles good and stuck in the most mundane places, usually at the end of my own driveway. Sometimes a bit of sand does it, but more than once it's been a multi hour fight with tractors getting stuck in order to free the car, then using the truck to free the tractor, then the tractor to unstick the truck after. It gets exhausting.
In for the day, it's nearly 5PM. Like I said earlier "sometime" it ain't no showboat. Got the engine pretty well re-connected. Have to argue with the lift pump wiring, and the vacuum hose off the pump was getting pretty spongy from the oil. Have to add a vacuum tee and plumb in the vac for the front axle actuator.
I only have maybe $5K in the 2WD pickup and it has no limited slip. It is REALLY rust free, the cab is tight and does not leak, and the only dent in the entire rig is a big gouge on the one side of the bed, which could be fixed. I "may" have it painted "single stage" AKA Matco, etc. It is absolutely worthless in winter. It only has about 140K on the clock. I cannot buy an equivalent 4WD for less than 25-35K around here. Anything cheaper has at least 250K and more. I paid 1500 for the V10 donor, and 300 for the "rolling too short frame."
I admit it's been a lot of work and more to come. But I'm pretty sure I'm headed on the downhill side. The BIG thing to finish up---barring unforseen--is reworking the front axle.
Thanks. Not having a great deal of money leaves two choices----work or do witihout LOL
Comin along nicely, Del!
The 'eck are you located, by the way? I've forgotten or maybe didn't know I thought I had Coeur d Alene in my <<<<<<<side panel but guess not
When you were talking about steering being different it reminded me of years ago my 77 Power wagon's steering box was leaking really bad. I went to junk yard and he had a complete one including tank hoses and all including fluid for something like $30. I was so excited to not have to add fluid all the time. I swapped it out and cranked it up and everything was great until I started to test drive. I would turn wheel to left and it would go right. Although they looked identical the worm is backwards in 4wd and the one I bought came out of 2wd.
^^A little story about that LOL^^
In the mid-late 70's guys were into the original Broncos. We had a little club in town, there were 2 guys in the club with early Broncos. There were only maybe 3? choices for converting them to power steering. You could buy a new Ford box for over 400 bux "if you could get it" or you could use (I forget) a 61-62 Buick or about a ?? 64 ish T bird. THAT WAS IT, you could not use any other box we knew of
So a really great guy had a muffler shop in town, he is a GREAT welder--used to do stainless exhaust on aircraft here and there
One cold (about this time or later) late fall night I got off work and wend down to his shop, here was his Bronco on the hoist, just coming down. I looked in there and here sits a Mopar box, all VERY nicely done. I thought, frowned, looked at Dean and said, "you HAVE checked that it steers the correct direction"
This cloud began to form...............
In the mid-late 70's guys were into the original Broncos. We had a little club in town, there were 2 guys in the club with early Broncos. There were only maybe 3? choices for converting them to power steering. You could buy a new Ford box for over 400 bux "if you could get it" or you could use (I forget) a 61-62 Buick or about a ?? 64 ish T bird. THAT WAS IT, you could not use any other box we knew of
So a really great guy had a muffler shop in town, he is a GREAT welder--used to do stainless exhaust on aircraft here and there
One cold (about this time or later) late fall night I got off work and wend down to his shop, here was his Bronco on the hoist, just coming down. I looked in there and here sits a Mopar box, all VERY nicely done. I thought, frowned, looked at Dean and said, "you HAVE checked that it steers the correct direction"
This cloud began to form...............
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
I'm in Cda, south of the river, a few miles into the hills.
We are gonna havta get together for the heck of it!!
Thu Oct 27 about 1PM
Fired up the diesel "in the new chassis" this morning. I had removed the engine mounted pump "bypass plate" and connected the fuel line direct to the filter, then mounted a new FASS down on the frame rail. I did not drain the engine mount filter or anything onwards to the injection pump. This morning I attached an old refrigeration manifold to monitor and bleed the system up to the filter, and jumpered power to the FASS to do so, bled, and got 15psi.
I expected the thing to fire right up. CHRIST It cranked a lot, then sputtered and clanked and smoked to beat hell. It has NOT gotten anything into the intake, I was careful to take care of that.
If finally settled down after a couple minutes, and restarted a couple times "instantly."
Wound it up (on the hoist) to over a hundred MPH no vibrations in the shaft or noise in the transfer case that I can hear
Now the REAL work begins.
Fired up the diesel "in the new chassis" this morning. I had removed the engine mounted pump "bypass plate" and connected the fuel line direct to the filter, then mounted a new FASS down on the frame rail. I did not drain the engine mount filter or anything onwards to the injection pump. This morning I attached an old refrigeration manifold to monitor and bleed the system up to the filter, and jumpered power to the FASS to do so, bled, and got 15psi.
I expected the thing to fire right up. CHRIST It cranked a lot, then sputtered and clanked and smoked to beat hell. It has NOT gotten anything into the intake, I was careful to take care of that.
If finally settled down after a couple minutes, and restarted a couple times "instantly."
Wound it up (on the hoist) to over a hundred MPH no vibrations in the shaft or noise in the transfer case that I can hear
Now the REAL work begins.
Hell yeah! Video man, we need video. lol
Glad you got it running Del. That’s a lot of work and I’m sure you were happy to finally hear run.
Hopefully you’ll have some brakes soon, have that baby moving and ready for winter.
Hopefully you’ll have some brakes soon, have that baby moving and ready for winter.
Got the rear brakes plumbed and plugged off the front feed where it would junction at the frame block. Tomorrow (lacking rain LOL) I'm going to try and bleed and at least get rear brakes, so I can move it if needed.
Also got the parking brake bracket made and welded on, "they work."
Also got the parking brake bracket made and welded on, "they work."
Last edited:
This mornings 1300 bux and some change parts run.
New front hoses, calipers and pads, the both ends of the drag link, and both ends of the tie rod (in other words going to re-use the sleeve), new knuckle U-joints, and the "somewhat expensive" bearing hub units. Unfortunately these older pickups had the rotors on the INBOARD side of the hub, so you have to drive all 8 studs out to remove them. I'm going to try and use the rotors off the 97 donor, which were likely replaced at some point. They are in good shape. I have an Ammco brake lathe.
New front hoses, calipers and pads, the both ends of the drag link, and both ends of the tie rod (in other words going to re-use the sleeve), new knuckle U-joints, and the "somewhat expensive" bearing hub units. Unfortunately these older pickups had the rotors on the INBOARD side of the hub, so you have to drive all 8 studs out to remove them. I'm going to try and use the rotors off the 97 donor, which were likely replaced at some point. They are in good shape. I have an Ammco brake lathe.
Dragged home another 500 in parts this aft. Turns out the ball joints are "not all that tight, I needed the sleeve for the tie rod because it's a rusty hulk, AND my used rotors turned out to be "untenable." The rotors need a clean true face to abut the bearing units, and these have considerable rust build up. Beyond "wire wheel" I'd say. My little South Bend is not large enough to chuck them up and face them for the bearing mount, so another "bux" for a pair of rotors!!
-
Similar threads
