The heads are being put on now

-

jerry6

Banned
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Messages
2,439
Reaction score
78
Location
Mon
Pistons all look good , I noticed car was a bit down on power lately , found 4 push rods that looked like bananas , bent big time . The rest of the engine looks to be in great shape . Should be on the dyno Saturday if the new push rods arrive . Hoping for 425 HP . White spot on the crossmember was from a plastic bag that got wedged in there between oil pan and headers , melted on the cross member , when I peeled it off took the paint with it
100_0780_zps8d4565d0.jpg

 
Nice and clean.....I love it!
And I drive it , not a show or trailer queen . Only put 4000 miles this year though , lots of rain and a month and 1/2 hospital stay put a halt to driving . Next yer will be better , into the 12's and a few runs at the Mont Tremblant road course , want to see 165 mph on the back straight .
Question , should I grind off the Edelbrock on the heads and paint them same colour as engine , or leave them . ? So far the guys at the garage say leave it and don't open the hood , I like to open the hood and claim it's stock , let people scratch their heads wondering how it goes so well on stock heads , plus I don't like flashy **** , no chrome on the engine , except the valve covers , car came with those .
So paint and grind the name off and paint or leave them ?
 
You may want to inquire/investigate as to why you have 4 bent pushrods before reassembly.

Looks nice going back together.
 
You may want to inquire/investigate as to why you have 4 bent pushrods before reassembly.

Looks nice going back together.
I think I know why , hit 7000 rpm by mistake ,not mistake more like pissed off and held it longer than I should of , after that run car never ran right , well was lacking on the upper end . Everything else looks fine , pistons ,cylinders , bearings , cam and old heads look fine . No damage , except for the bent push rods .
 
And I drive it , not a show or trailer queen . Only put 4000 miles this year though , lots of rain and a month and 1/2 hospital stay put a halt to driving . Next yer will be better , into the 12's and a few runs at the Mont Tremblant road course , want to see 165 mph on the back straight .
Question , should I grind off the Edelbrock on the heads and paint them same colour as engine , or leave them . ? So far the guys at the garage say leave it and don't open the hood , I like to open the hood and claim it's stock , let people scratch their heads wondering how it goes so well on stock heads , plus I don't like flashy **** , no chrome on the engine , except the valve covers , car came with those .
So paint and grind the name off and paint or leave them ?

I like the grind/fill and paint Jerry. Only guys really on the ball would ever catch it in passing. :thumbrig:
 
Am I seeing that pic wrong or do you have the open-chamber models for use on original high-comp 340s with pop-up pistons? If so I might argue that's a step in the wrong direction they're only 2 cc's bigger in volume but you lose all your quench

Your engine is really clean btw doesn't look like there was any detonation serious enough to make any noticeable damage
 
Am I seeing that pic wrong or do you have the open-chamber models for use on original high-comp 340s with pop-up pistons? If so I might argue that's a step in the wrong direction they're only 2 cc's bigger in volume but you lose all your quench Your engine is really clean btw doesn't look like there was any detonation serious enough to make any noticeable damage
They are the 65cc heads same as the original heads (think I should put the 12.5 pistons I had in originally ? ) , that's what the shop ordered , if they don't make enough power on the dyno we will look at options . They have their Duster running 10.3 , who am I to argue with success ,they know more about this **** than I do so I follow their lead . Nothing written in stone . Depending on dyno results cam might be changed as well , very mild cam in it now , easy to change while out and testing . I am just aiming for super reliable street car that will run high 12's , and use cheaper gas , 94 octane is 20-30 cents a litre more than 89 octane 60+ litres a tank ads up .
The pistons were clean , looks like it was running well but I did see a few marks on them indicating detonation , nothing serious . sure don't look as good as when they were put in though .
 
Why people recommend those open chamber heads is always a mystery to me. It might be the listing that edelbrock has that confuses the crap out of their buyers. Harder to build a quench engine with them. That's why the closed chambers are the better option. Adjust quench with your head gasket thickness especially if it's a zero or positive piston height.

First thing I do when I get a set of those open chamber heads... they go on a surfacer to get rid of the open chamber.
 
Why people recommend those open chamber heads is always a mystery to me. It might be the listing that edelbrock has that confuses the crap out of their buyers. Harder to build a quench engine with them. That's why the closed chambers are the better option. Adjust quench with your head gasket thickness especially if it's a zero or positive piston height. First thing I do when I get a set of those open chamber heads... they go on a surfacer to get rid of the open chamber.
I'm sure that the shop takes everything into account , they have been building winning mopars for 30+ years . I'll let you know how it does on the dyno , and if the weather cooperates he track .
 
Jerry, what do you suppose caused the pushrods to bend? You said you hit 7K, RPM by itself doesnt bend pushrods. Then the thread turned to chamber volumes(?)

You bent pushrods because something collided, most likely a valve to piston. Has your LMS disassembled the heads and measured out your valves?

If they havent suggested some further investigation about your bent pushrods I would be very concerned. Take the opportunity to look further..
 
I'm sure that the shop takes everything into account , they have been building winning mopars for 30+ years . I'll let you know how it does on the dyno , and if the weather cooperates he track .

It will run well. It will be more prone to detonation with those heads vs. closed chambers.
 
Jerry, what do you suppose caused the pushrods to bend? You said you hit 7K, RPM by itself doesnt bend pushrods. Then the thread turned to chamber volumes(?) You bent pushrods because something collided, most likely a valve to piston. Has your LMS disassembled the heads and measured out your valves? If they havent suggested some further investigation about your bent pushrods I would be very concerned. Take the opportunity to look further..
It's strange for sure , everything looks great , nothing looks like there was a collision , valves , pistons all look perfect . The only thing I remember is it made a bit of noise at the end of the 7000 + rpm run and the car was lacking on the top end after that ,. I thought the cam went bad . I'll search some more once it's apart , but so far besides the bent rods nothing shows . 3 have a bit of a warp not that bad 1 is really noticeable , i saw it was bent just holding it , on the table it would not roll without a big push . I'll try to get pics of how bent the one is really bad .

Motherfuck , the mechanic showed me the wrong push rods !!! they were from another 340 , not mine , he made a mistake . Wow what a relief .
Going on the dyno in an hour or so , I'm off to see the test
 
It will run well. It will be more prone to detonation with those heads vs. closed chambers.
Really hoping the alu heads will help with the detonation , worse comes to worse a little machine work is in order . That's the good thing with dyno testing , easy to make modifications if you are not happy with the results .
 
Motherfuck , the mechanic showed me the wrong push rods !!! they were from another 340 , not mine , he made a mistake . Wow what a relief .
Going on the dyno in an hour or so , I'm off to see the test

Internet dating in reverse!!! You know the great pic of the hot girl and something entirely different shows up.

Good to read that the ugly picture turned out to be the hot one!

Aluminum may help, it's more about the chamber shape/deck surface.
 
I'm sure that the shop takes everything into account , they have been building winning mopars for 30+ years . I'll let you know how it does on the dyno , and if the weather cooperates he track .

If that's the case then hopefully I'll learn something from this and I'm wrong but... those heads will need to be shaved .060" or more to bring the deck surface to the same plane as the quench areas IF it is needed. I'd guess it won't although you would benefit from a more efficient engine overall with the quench (less spark advance, lower octane req., leaner running, less tuning sensitivity etc.) just something to think about and maybe inquire your engine builder.
 
Glad that got resolved for you.

btw, valve piston contact isnt necessarily visible. Interference in the thousandths is all it takes to bend a valve enough so it wont seal properly ever again.

Depending on the dynamics of the valvetrain at 7000, is the spring keeping up, is there flutter (valve not reseating fully), overtravel (valve tip/retainer accelerating past rocker tip), coil bind/rebound, etc collisions happen.

Unless you know that with the retainer absolutely bottomed against the valve seal that it has clearance (claying the motor) from the piston, what can possibly hit will if you find the limit
 
If that's the case then hopefully I'll learn something from this and I'm wrong but... those heads will need to be shaved .060" or more to bring the deck surface to the same plane as the quench areas IF it is needed. I'd guess it won't although you would benefit from a more efficient engine overall with the quench (less spark advance, lower octane req., leaner running, less tuning sensitivity etc.) just something to think about and maybe inquire your engine builder.
I'll ask about the heads , why he chose these , what is being done about quench area . These guys are pretty good so I'm sure it has all been done if it is needed , just not mentioned . I have forgotten so much over the years , been a good 20 years since I've played with cars , my tools and equipment are not the only things that got rusty
 
Well I'll have the heads taken off the area filled in and planed flat , mistake buying the open chamber heads , didn't even think about that , just ordered the 340 heads . Why the **** do they even make them ? Not like they are needed in most cases , they should make open chamber special order so people don't make the same mistake .
 
Well I'll have the heads taken off the area filled in and planed flat , mistake buying the open chamber heads , didn't even think about that , just ordered the 340 heads . Why the **** do they even make them ? Not like they are needed in most cases , they should make open chamber special order so people don't make the same mistake .

What happened? Still having pinging issues? If it runs good then just leave them at this point...
 
Well I'll have the heads taken off the area filled in and planed flat , mistake buying the open chamber heads , didn't even think about that , just ordered the 340 heads . Why the **** do they even make them ?
Edelbrock makes them for the early 340s that have the stock type pistons. Those pistons stick out of the block about .100" and would most likely collide with a closed-chamber head. Got the open-chamber Edelbrocks on my 340 with the stock type pistons and it runs great.
 
Stock 340 pistons are around .018 out of the block...but varies due to production tolerances....the nhra blueprint spec is .045....

can be easily compensated by using the correct head gasket..

as 1 certain 360 I have has the open chamber eddy heads with a positive deck height piston....
 
It runs, and no ping but compression is down was @180 -185 NOW IS 170 -175 , runs on 91 , maybe even 89 octane , but I wanted max compression with the alu heads it's at 9.9:1 now should have at least 10.5+ with the alu heads , not happy with results . Winter is long , lot of time to save $$ and get it right . We made a mistake with the heads that needs correcting , just can't leave it as is , untapped potential .
 
Jerry, aren't you making 400+ hp now, and have become able to use "pump" gas? That combo makes some serious power for a 340 street car.

I have to say, a few tenth's in compression will make very little difference in power on a pump gas street car. You have the breathing you need with your current Eddy's, so just enjoy the ride. :thumbrig:
 
-
Back
Top