The Other 68 Dart Resto Project

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I am going to work on the supports today, I found some real nice black button head allen bolts yesterday. I am probably goung to buy some 3/8 aluminum rod, cut it to size, the drill and tap it for the bolts. I am also going to cut the hole in the hood. I also figure that that scoop is going to pull up on the hood pretty hard, so I am also going to add a set of hood pins too for extra security. If I come across one pretty cheap, I will add a fiberglass hood later.
 
Here is part II of the hood scoop install, fresh air. I figured that I have enough room between the braces to fit an 11" x 3 1/2" K&N X-stream filter. I will be making a baseplate with a seal to keep out underhood air.
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If it was a fiberglass hood, I would have just cut a large round or oval hole, but for budget reasons, I am keeping the steel hood. I wanted to make it look neat, and not just hack up the bracing. I started by marking the hole I wanted to cut, I then drilled 3/16" holes in all the corners.
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On top of the hood, I laid down some tape, then drew lines between all the holes.
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I then cut the lines with my dremel tool and some extra large cutoff wheels. When I was done, it was time to take a shower because my neck and arms were covered with itchy metal grindings, I hate that stuff! I used some 120 grit sandpaper and a sanding roll on my dremel to clean up the opening.
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The second part of what I did today was do some more sanding, I finished sanding around the driver's side driprail, the edge of the windsheild frame, the cowl panel, and about 1/2 the hood.

Trivia question: How do you sand the little slats in the cowl, all 60 of them?

Answer: One at a time!

Two and a half hours later I finished. I had to get a sanding sponge and wrap it with 320 grit sand paper, fold it in half, and sand on for a couple of minutes. Repeat 60 more times.
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I got about 1/2 done with he hood and my D/A sander and 180 grit sandpaper.
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I also blocked the scoop top and sides to get it as flat as possible.
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wow you have some ballz! Not sure if I could cut away on the car like that.
 
Once I got the scoop, I was comitted, I was not going to have a scoop and not have it be functional. Its just a stock steel hood, not like it was a GTS hood. Eventually I might get a fiberglass hood for a little weight savings.
 
My God your pace and ambition are awesome, and the scoop looks great. Can't wait to get back at mine. Looking at your progress is definately an inspiration, thanks for the pics!
 
Ambition? Is that what you call it?

My lazy *** spent the day watching TV on my day off yesterday.
 
Hey Flyboy01, I see the rust inside the trunk lid (on the photos), did you do the same thing here & the hood as you did on your fender; flood the Evaporust in those areas with the aquarium pump & hosing & then encapsulate as well ? Just wondering... Would that be necessary ?
 
The rust was just very light surface rust, I flooded it with rust converter then covered it with encapsulator. The camera flash makes the rust look much worse than it is.
 
I did some practice this weekend, and made up a test panel with the etch, primer, base, and clear I will be painting my car with, I also wanted to get a feel for my paint gun, and how the paint sprays out and behaves. I learned a lot.

The gun I have I bought a few years ago, HVLP, it needs 8.4 CFM at 30 PSI, my compressor is not having a problem keeping up with the gun. It has a 1.5 tip, the spray pattern is very uneven, it comes out more oval than cigar shaped, and it has extra spray out the bottom, the spray out of it is a little too coarse, I think the paint droplets need to be finer.

I have a 20 Gallon Compressor, 25 gallon, 2 running HP, oil lubricated, large piston, fast recovery. 8.6 CFM at 40 psi. My compressor is able to keep up, just fine, the problem is, my gun was not atomizing fine enough. I spent a lot of time seting up, rechecking, and adjusting the spray pattern. Unfortunately I just could not get the spray fine enough, It gets finer when I turn down the mixture, but then I am hardly getting any paint, I tried higher pressure (40psi), but it did not work as well as 25-30psi. My paint calls for 1.3 to 1.5 tip, 25-30 PSI at the gun.

I ended up doing some test painting with the best settings I could manage, I ended up with a lot of orange peel. I sprayed primer, base, and clear, all with the same results.

I am almost sure it is the gun, so I went ahead and ordered an Astro EVO4014 LVLP gun from spraygunworld.com today along with a diaphram regulator for it. Hopefully it will give better atomization, also its requirements are below what my compressor can produce it is supposed to be comparable (almost a direct copy) of the Iwata $450 gun. It came highly recommended by a lot of paint pros.

Pictures of my test panel.

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I tried wet sanding my test panel today (i did the right side) and hand buffed it to see if I could get rid on the orange peel. It worked ok, its a lot shinyer now. Not perfect, but it was just a test.

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Great paint photos, good luck with the new paint gun.
Regarding the rust encapsulation inside the hood & trunk lids; how did you coat inside those areas ? Foegive me if you have answered this before, I may have overlooked that post.
 
Great paint photos, good luck with the new paint gun.
Regarding the rust encapsulation inside the hood & trunk lids; how did you coat inside those areas ? Foegive me if you have answered this before, I may have overlooked that post.

I just spray what I can reach. I tend to flood areas I cant reach, like the inside seams with rust converter. On my trunklid, its pretty much 2 solid sheets of steel, you cant do much to treat the insides, unless you take everything apart. The trunk has lasted 40 years with just surface rust in between, I have a feeling it will last 40 more with what I have done.
 
Was just looking at the photos from your #47 post on the trunk area. That last photo got me wondering (it's always dangerous when ya start wondering), wonder if 69 Roadrunner tail lights would fit in those tail light opening ?
What would that look like ? Not saying you should do that, now if I only knew how to use PhotoShop. Shame on me for having customizing thoughts...
 
Was just looking at the photos from your #47 post on the trunk area. That last photo got me wondering (it's always dangerous when ya start wondering), wonder if 69 Roadrunner tail lights would fit in those tail light opening ?
What would that look like ? Not saying you should do that, now if I only knew how to use PhotoShop. Shame on me for having customizing thoughts...

Nope, totally different buckets.
 
Looks like you used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator dark grey finish on your rear axel parts, but your third member is a darker color. What did you use on it? How does the Eastwood Diamond Clear you used on the calipers look compared to the Rust Encapsulator for color and sheen? Have you tried their Detail Grey or Spray Grey paints?
 
Looks like you used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator dark grey finish on your rear axel parts, but your third member is a darker color. What did you use on it? How does the Eastwood Diamond Clear you used on the calipers look compared to the Rust Encapsulator for color and sheen? Have you tried their Detail Grey or Spray Grey paints?

I used Duplicolor Cast Iron engine paint. It was really just a temporary cosmetic, lipstick on a pig, type of deal. The 3rd member will be replaced in the near future with a limeted slip and deeper gears. When I do that, I will be painting it with diamond clear, it is clear, so whatever color the metal underneath is, thats the color you get. Most paint. as long as the surface is clean, will last forever if you are not driving the car everyday in wet and snow. Any paint will do as long as you are happy with the finish.
 
Its been a couple of weeks since I last posted, but I have been getting stuff accomplished.

Next on my listwas the hood. I needed to prep the top and bottom for paint. I started by sanding the dark green paint and what was left of the clearcoat off the top. This actually took 2 days with a D/A sander and 120 grit paper. What was underneath on the whole car is some good high-build primer (dark red) over the factory green paint. SInce the factory paint was laquer, and the surfacer was laquer, and my new paint will be laquer, I am leaving the stuff underneat, as there are no adhesion or rust issues. After spending many hours with the D/A, I was pretty convinced that the hood was now super flat and ready for primer.
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I took the hood off the car and flipped it upside down on my table. There was lots of dirt, grease, carbon, and grime underneath, as well as some surface rust, but no rusthrough. I wiped the whole underside of the hood with laquer thinner several times and finally got the grunge off. I started to sand off some of the rust and noticed that a lot of the paint was chpping off near the back of the hood, so, besides sanding any rust down, I went at any loose paint I could find, down to bare metal.
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After I gut the problem areas to bare metal, I sprayed on some rust converter.
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WHen done, I sprayed the bare areas with etching primer. Underside done.
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I flipped the hood back over for the final prepwork. I looked at the front edge and decided that I needed to get rid of the "DODGE" letters. I welded the holes shut, ground down the beads, then coated the area with filler. I threw on a coat of surfacer to fill in some of the scratches and and help with the final blocking.
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Remember when I said that I was pretty sure the hood was perfectly flat, well, this is the reason you need to block sand everything. Now it is flat, but check out the pattern. Goes to show you, you cant trust your eye.
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Next on the list was finishing the cowl area, the engine compartment will be done after the paint. I need to keep the engine functional so I can move the car. As soon as the paint is done, I will begin working on the 383, when I pull the 318, I am going to paint the engine compartment. RIght now, I am just going to paint above the seam.
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Today's project was stripping the front fenders, I bought a can of Aircraft Stripper, some paint brushes, and had a lot of fun. Not actually that bad, just messy, and I had to wear double nitrile gloves to keep mu hands from burning. After I finished scraping, after 4 applications, I had all the paint, primer, and filler off. I washed the fender down with a scotchbrite pad and laquer thinner. I now have to fill in all the little dents and prime it. Total work time, 3 hours.

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Do you strip paint inside your garage with a respirator ?
How bad are those chemicals on your lungs ?
 
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