Hay flyboy01! Good looking A bodie you got there.
I like them 68's
I like them 68's
The Other 68 Dart Resto Project
- Thread starter flyboy01
- Start date
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bthieson
Well-Known Member
Can you pickup that Eastwood's Red Rust Encapsulator Primer just about anywhere? I'm going to do my trunk soon. I have a little bit of surface rust, and I Think that would do the trick nicely.
flyboy01
Its almost done!
No, unfortunately, you can only buy it from www.eastwood.com, but they have a sale right now, 10% off throught 5/29/07.
flyboy01
Its almost done!
Constant rain and high humididty have stalled the project for the last few weeks. :sad:
flyboy01
Its almost done!
This morning I decided to repair my door hinges. Originally, when I bought the car, I opened the door and tried to lift it, no slop. But trying to adjust the door last week led to a lot of frustration, I could not get the door lined up, it turns out the the pin hole had been worn in an oval pattern, which meant the the door had slop near the closed position, but not in the open. I ordered a pin repair kit, I got it yesterday, so I made it my project for the day. I originally planned on trying to repair it without pulling the door off, but realized that it would be easier to pull the door off the hinges. The bad part was, I got a case of "might-as-well." I decided it would be a perfect time to prep the door jamb for paint. I started at 10 am, I sprayed the filler primer at 10pm.
Here is the hinge seperated, I had drilled the holes with a 25/64" drill bit (which I had to make a run to Lowes for.
The other side was just as easy.
In case you are wondering how the bushings go in
The striker plate had the typical mopar problem, which was fixed by the previous owner. The repair was done OK, but there was a crack in the weld at the top, and the inside seam was left unwelded, which caused it to flex.
I fixed it by welding it all the way around. Of course my welds were so bad, I had to grind them down with my die grinder.
Time for filler.
After shaping, I shot the bare metal with etching primer, any areas of rust were sanded down, then I sprayed rust encapsulating primer over those areas (red primer).
The last thing I did for the night was shoot the jamb with some filler primer.
I might add a little putty later to smooth out some of the bumps.
Here is the hinge seperated, I had drilled the holes with a 25/64" drill bit (which I had to make a run to Lowes for.
The other side was just as easy.
In case you are wondering how the bushings go in
The striker plate had the typical mopar problem, which was fixed by the previous owner. The repair was done OK, but there was a crack in the weld at the top, and the inside seam was left unwelded, which caused it to flex.
I fixed it by welding it all the way around. Of course my welds were so bad, I had to grind them down with my die grinder.
Time for filler.
After shaping, I shot the bare metal with etching primer, any areas of rust were sanded down, then I sprayed rust encapsulating primer over those areas (red primer).
The last thing I did for the night was shoot the jamb with some filler primer.
I might add a little putty later to smooth out some of the bumps.
gerty
Well-Known Member
flyboy01, Thanks for a very good hinge repair how to. Your posts as usual are detailed with clear pics and are very helpful to me and others as well. Seems like your particular project is just a few days before I start the same repair on my Duster. You have saved me a lot of head scratching and cussing. I need to start a resto thread on project Juice, start taking pics and sharing some of my experiences, good and bad. Keep up the good work!
Bob
Bob
flyboy01
Its almost done!
Glad I could help. I did a bit of head scratching at first, but I figured it out. The hard part was finding the right size drill bit. Doing the pin replacement was really easy, if that was all I did, it would have taken me no more than 20 min per door. Aligning it is the hard part, but in theory, if you only take the door half of the hinge off, the alignment should be close when you are done.
flyboy01
Its almost done!
In case you were wondering where to get the repair kit:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/66-7...ryZ33642QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/66-7...ryZ33642QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
gerty
Well-Known Member
I got my hinge kit today from the same ebayer. Thats a good tip( leaving the hinge bolted on), I've got my fenders off and the alignment might not be as rough this way. Where is the best place to buy the evaporust?
Bob
Bob
Dodgenut64
Well-Known Member
Coming along great, thanks for all the pics, very helpful.
moparfreak77
Well-Known Member
When I did mine I sprayed a bit of paint on the hinges before I took them off so I knew where they were.
flyboy01
Its almost done!
gerty said:
I got my Evaporust off ebay, there is a guy that sells the 5 gal, if you offer $65, he will take it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...RK:MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=170090965604&rd=1,1
flyboy01
Its almost done!
Another update, I got the drivers door done, I just need to weld up the trim holes and spray a coat of primer.
This is what it looked like before I started, you can see that there were large areas where the clear coat had failed, which led to the failure of the base coat, which left bare filler that you see here. I have no idea why the clear was flaking, but it might have been because the car sat in the Texas sun for 15 years, slowly baking.
After doing a little research, I found out that I need to strip the old paint off completely since the clear was improperly applied and there would be a high risk of it peeling off if I just scuffed it. I did things the hard way and sanded off the paint with 80 grit in my D/A.
Once I got the paint stripped, I started blocking the door with a 17" board, the previous paint job had a thick layer of filler primer on it (brown), so I just started sanding until I got the panel straight. The existing filled was done properly, and I saw no need to strip it down and start from scratch.
This is what it looks like now, the panel is pretty straight now, I did have a few divits that I had to lay in some fresh putty to make it really smooth. I still need to weld up the trim holes in the door. Once I do that and get the door back on the car and aligned, I will spray the whole car in the finish primer. The driver's side of the car is worse than the Passenger side, so that is why I am spending most of my time on this side. The front fender was replaced before and really only needs to be sanded and aligned.
This is what it looked like before I started, you can see that there were large areas where the clear coat had failed, which led to the failure of the base coat, which left bare filler that you see here. I have no idea why the clear was flaking, but it might have been because the car sat in the Texas sun for 15 years, slowly baking.
After doing a little research, I found out that I need to strip the old paint off completely since the clear was improperly applied and there would be a high risk of it peeling off if I just scuffed it. I did things the hard way and sanded off the paint with 80 grit in my D/A.
Once I got the paint stripped, I started blocking the door with a 17" board, the previous paint job had a thick layer of filler primer on it (brown), so I just started sanding until I got the panel straight. The existing filled was done properly, and I saw no need to strip it down and start from scratch.
This is what it looks like now, the panel is pretty straight now, I did have a few divits that I had to lay in some fresh putty to make it really smooth. I still need to weld up the trim holes in the door. Once I do that and get the door back on the car and aligned, I will spray the whole car in the finish primer. The driver's side of the car is worse than the Passenger side, so that is why I am spending most of my time on this side. The front fender was replaced before and really only needs to be sanded and aligned.
racyroy1
Well-Known Member
WHAT is bbd.com and is that the e adress?
racy
racy
flyboy01
Its almost done!
flyboy01
Its almost done!
Well its almost 3 weeks later, no progress. It has rained every day since in Dallas, the humididty is too high to do any bodywork. I have dedicated a bunch of time to cleaning and organizing my garage however.
flyboy01
Its almost done!
It looks like the weather is going to be clear tomorrow, a chance to get some more bodywork done. I will post more pics later.
flyboy01
Its almost done!
OK, finally some more progress!
I started the day by doing something I have avoided doing for 6 months, removing the window trim of the front and back glass. I started to do the back on about 4 months ago and gave up after trying unsucessfully prying on it for two hours, the trim is in perfect shape and I did not want to damage it. Since it has not removed itself, despite my hoping so, I decided to tackle it Monday morning.
Well, 1/2 hour into struggling with the trim clips *SNAP* my trim tool broke. F**K! I decided to save a little time, by welding it back together instead of driving to the parts store to get a new one. 45 minutes later it was done, I was prod of my custom gusset and all the welding and gringing I did.
I took it back over the window, shoved it under the trim and *SNAP!* :angry5: I chucked that tool out the garage door, got in my truck, and drove to O'reiley's. 30 minutes later, I was back home with a tool much nicer than the first one, and it cost $4 less. Sometimes you learn the hard way. :tard:
Ok, 3 hour later (yes I said 3 hours), I finally got the front and rear trim off with minimal damage. It took all of my brain power and fingertip muscle to get trim off that had 38 year old butyl rubber baked on the bottom of it. But, good news, no rust!
I started the day by doing something I have avoided doing for 6 months, removing the window trim of the front and back glass. I started to do the back on about 4 months ago and gave up after trying unsucessfully prying on it for two hours, the trim is in perfect shape and I did not want to damage it. Since it has not removed itself, despite my hoping so, I decided to tackle it Monday morning.
Well, 1/2 hour into struggling with the trim clips *SNAP* my trim tool broke. F**K! I decided to save a little time, by welding it back together instead of driving to the parts store to get a new one. 45 minutes later it was done, I was prod of my custom gusset and all the welding and gringing I did.
I took it back over the window, shoved it under the trim and *SNAP!* :angry5: I chucked that tool out the garage door, got in my truck, and drove to O'reiley's. 30 minutes later, I was back home with a tool much nicer than the first one, and it cost $4 less. Sometimes you learn the hard way. :tard:Ok, 3 hour later (yes I said 3 hours), I finally got the front and rear trim off with minimal damage. It took all of my brain power and fingertip muscle to get trim off that had 38 year old butyl rubber baked on the bottom of it. But, good news, no rust!
flyboy01
Its almost done!
Here is the second part of my project. I started the day just wanting the loosten a few bolts and re-align the front fenders, the drivers side needed to come up at the rear and front needed to shift a bit to the left. That was the plan, what ended up happening was I pulled both all the trim, then I loosened the bolts, then I thought to myself, "these are going to be much easier to sand off the car," so I proceeded to start yanking it all off. I plan to pull the passenger door next so i can replace the hinges. I did the drivers door a few weeks ago, and it was a lot easier doing all the sanding off the car.
Very minimal surface rust, no rust through.
No rust through, but very thick paint.
No rust.
Very minimal surface rust, no rust through.
No rust through, but very thick paint.
No rust.
Looks great! I had the same challenge fighting with the gummy butyl that stcuk to the trim better then any bubble gum has stuck to my shoe.
Will you be removing the windshield and putting in a new gasket?
I'm almost ready to put my windshield back in but I need to screw in the trim clips first. The windshield trim clip set I bought from Laysons has four slightly longer clips compared to the rest. Any chance you could tell from the existing ones around your windshield if any are longer then the rest? I'm not too sure where the four longer ones go.
Will you be removing the windshield and putting in a new gasket?
I'm almost ready to put my windshield back in but I need to screw in the trim clips first. The windshield trim clip set I bought from Laysons has four slightly longer clips compared to the rest. Any chance you could tell from the existing ones around your windshield if any are longer then the rest? I'm not too sure where the four longer ones go.
flyboy01
Its almost done!
All the trim clips looked the same to me, evil! Those little bastards!
I am going to have to replace the windsheild because it has a bullseye in it. I am going to do that after I paint it. How much did it cost you to replace you windshield?
I am going to have to replace the windsheild because it has a bullseye in it. I am going to do that after I paint it. How much did it cost you to replace you windshield?
flyboy01
Its almost done!
Boring, but update pictures none the less...I finished the work on the driver's door, it had a major dent in the center, the lines are back to what they were before, everything is straight now. Its primered, wet sanded, and ready for sealer and paint. Its going back on the car this weekend. It looks like now, I am expecting to have paint on it by the end of August.
daves66valiant
68 Dart 340/727:66 Signet Vert 340/5spd: 68 D100
nice work fly
redfastback
Don't ask me... my garage is empty
looks nice. cant wait to see paint on it.
Flying right along.
Nothing boring about those pictures!! Nice and straight.:grin:
Nothing boring about those pictures!! Nice and straight.:grin:
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