flyboy01
Its almost done!
Those are checking springs you use when you are checking valve clearance an degreeing in a cam, if you use regular springs, it can cause the plungers in the lifters to collapse, which will not give you accurate readings.
The Other 68 Dart Resto Project
- Thread starter flyboy01
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BTW - where did you get those "tester" springs?
flyboy01
Its almost done!
Any speed shop will carry them, I got them at Ramcharger's in Taylor, MI. Try Summit too.
Nitrous340Dart
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I'm its getting old hearing it all the time but its looking real good. All the pics are a HUGE help. I have the same "snowballing" problem, start with something and turn my head for a second and then find my self taking something else apart.
I was wondering though, if you have been keeping a tally of your hours and $$$$ all your body work has rung up.
Also what are your plans for the under carriage? Are you keeping the factory coating?
What seems to be the best way to remove paint, undercarriage coatings and any other 40 year old muck.
Thanks
I was wondering though, if you have been keeping a tally of your hours and $$$$ all your body work has rung up.
Also what are your plans for the under carriage? Are you keeping the factory coating?
What seems to be the best way to remove paint, undercarriage coatings and any other 40 year old muck.
Thanks
flyboy01
Its almost done!
I have been keeping a total of $$$, but not hours. I estimated a few months back that I had over 800 hours in the project so far, add probably another 50 to that by now.
As far as undercoating, the undercoating that is there is still in tact with no rust issues. I had some surface rust in areas where there was no undercoating. I applied A/B rust converter to the metal I wirebrushed the flake off, then I applied Encapsulator primer, then Chassis black over that. As far as the undercoating, I cleaned what was there with laquer thinner, then sprayed chassis black over it, since it was in good shape and there were no rust issues. I guess I have been lucky to get a car with no rust issues for a mopar that old. If I had a car with more rust, I would have sand blasted the underside and insides, then soda blasted the sheetmetal.
As far as undercoating, the undercoating that is there is still in tact with no rust issues. I had some surface rust in areas where there was no undercoating. I applied A/B rust converter to the metal I wirebrushed the flake off, then I applied Encapsulator primer, then Chassis black over that. As far as the undercoating, I cleaned what was there with laquer thinner, then sprayed chassis black over it, since it was in good shape and there were no rust issues. I guess I have been lucky to get a car with no rust issues for a mopar that old. If I had a car with more rust, I would have sand blasted the underside and insides, then soda blasted the sheetmetal.
flyboy01
Its almost done!
I test fit the headers in the car without the engine in it, they seem to clear everything, even the power steering, but I'm sure that they will need a few dimples here and there. I have my mockup 400 engine ready to go in it tomorrow to test fit everything, but I still need my manual steering box.
I also started cleaning up the engine bay, I stripped out everything. I first sprayed down everything with Gunk, scrubbed for a while to try to clean off all the years, I dod not have any scrob brushes, so I hosed everything down with oven cleaner and I am going to continue cleaning tomorrow.
I also started cleaning up the engine bay, I stripped out everything. I first sprayed down everything with Gunk, scrubbed for a while to try to clean off all the years, I dod not have any scrob brushes, so I hosed everything down with oven cleaner and I am going to continue cleaning tomorrow.
flyboy01
Its almost done!
I spent the weekend cleaning things up. Its amazing how stubborn 40 years of power steering fluid and dirt can be. I finally got it scrubbed up, I used engine cleaner, oven cleaner, Purple Power, Brakleen, and a bucket of hot soapy water and a scotchbrite pad (worked best).
I cut down the driver's side spool mount to work with the Schumaker mounts and re-drilled the holes. Hopefully I can get the engine test fit in this week.
I cut down the driver's side spool mount to work with the Schumaker mounts and re-drilled the holes. Hopefully I can get the engine test fit in this week.
S
SealockRacing
Guest
just curious, what type of headers are those? TTI's?
AdamR
Big Member
Those are hedmen B body headers.
redfastback
Don't ask me... my garage is empty
looks like fun...........are you dropping the kframe and front suspension?
flyboy01
Its almost done!
The front suspension is fine, so to keep the project on track, I am going to leave the K in place, then rebuild the suspension next year. I had considered dropping it, but I am on a time crunch. My car has to be assembled and drivable in 3 months, when I move.
flyboy01
Its almost done!
Yup, Hedman B body headers. I am actually surprised at how well they fit so far. More to come.
68_val_sedan
Well-Known Member
Looking good ... didn't realize you had so many more pics posted over here ...
flyboy01
Its almost done!
Just don't go to my photobucket and hit "veiw all," you will lock up your computer. 8) I have about 500 pictures uploaded.
Nitrous340Dart
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Hey FlyBoy,
Do you have any pics of the inside of your front fenders? I have a big chunk missing from mine and I am trying to figure out what it looks like. Thanks
Do you have any pics of the inside of your front fenders? I have a big chunk missing from mine and I am trying to figure out what it looks like. Thanks
flyboy01
Its almost done!
I probably do, just not posted, if not I can take a picture this weekend. exactly what do you need a picture of?
Nitrous340Dart
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thanks,
The rear portion of the front fender where it matches up to inner wheel well/firewall.
The picture I took is basically looking back and up a little from the a-arms.
The rear portion of the front fender where it matches up to inner wheel well/firewall.
The picture I took is basically looking back and up a little from the a-arms.
S
SealockRacing
Guest
so those B body headers fit inside the framerails of an A body?
i may have to get a set for the cuda if they fit that good, think they would fit that good in a 67 cuda with a 440?
i may have to get a set for the cuda if they fit that good, think they would fit that good in a 67 cuda with a 440?
flyboy01
Its almost done!
What I did Easter Sunday!
Sorta reminds you of Superman with these colors. The first step was just trying to get this thing in all by myself. It was a handful.
First test fitting of the headers on the drivers side, I will have to make a dent for the torsion bar and it looks like the starter to clear. I used a yellow metal marking crayon to mark the headers.
This tube cleared the firewall with plenty of room.
I made the first clearance for the torsion bar, not enough, gotta do it some more.
I made a dent to clear the starter, but after clearancing the torsion bar, the header shifter position a little and this one ended up not being needed, guess it will keep the starter a little cooler.
Need to clearance it a little more, a piece of paper gets hung up in here.
The firewall clearance did not change
Passenger side cleared the torsion bar fine, I might put a light ding in here to get a little extra clearance.
Good clearance to the right fender, no problems at all.
This one is a little bit more of an issue, The idler arm hits on both tubes, I am going to raise the engine slightly on this side and ding both tubes.
Another view under the pass side header, good clearance to the fender. The number 6 tube hits the back endge of the block and the trans pan rail, I need to clearance both those areas so I can be sure the header is in the right place and I dont have any header leaks.
Another thing I checked, the brake booster clears everything easily, even the valve cover with the clain under it. I will stay with power brakes now.
I still need the Manual steering box and I need to install the collumn to check the rest of the clearances. I am considering cutting the #3 tube and rewelding it for torsion bar clearance. Can you mig weld tubes or do you have to tig weld them?
Sorta reminds you of Superman with these colors. The first step was just trying to get this thing in all by myself. It was a handful.
First test fitting of the headers on the drivers side, I will have to make a dent for the torsion bar and it looks like the starter to clear. I used a yellow metal marking crayon to mark the headers.
This tube cleared the firewall with plenty of room.
I made the first clearance for the torsion bar, not enough, gotta do it some more.
I made a dent to clear the starter, but after clearancing the torsion bar, the header shifter position a little and this one ended up not being needed, guess it will keep the starter a little cooler.
Need to clearance it a little more, a piece of paper gets hung up in here.
The firewall clearance did not change
Passenger side cleared the torsion bar fine, I might put a light ding in here to get a little extra clearance.
Good clearance to the right fender, no problems at all.
This one is a little bit more of an issue, The idler arm hits on both tubes, I am going to raise the engine slightly on this side and ding both tubes.
Another view under the pass side header, good clearance to the fender. The number 6 tube hits the back endge of the block and the trans pan rail, I need to clearance both those areas so I can be sure the header is in the right place and I dont have any header leaks.
Another thing I checked, the brake booster clears everything easily, even the valve cover with the clain under it. I will stay with power brakes now.
I still need the Manual steering box and I need to install the collumn to check the rest of the clearances. I am considering cutting the #3 tube and rewelding it for torsion bar clearance. Can you mig weld tubes or do you have to tig weld them?
flyboy01
Its almost done!
No, low deck only, no way it would clear with an RB.
flyboy01
Its almost done!
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
I would tack then together with a mig, test fit, and then take it to a pro to be tig welded.
flyboy01
Its almost done!
Why? I understand it looks pretty, but what is the difference? Its only one tube and it does not have to look pretty because it will be hidden, the welds that Hedman made sure are sloppy, they are not tig'd. Is there any other reason to tig?
68_val_sedan
Well-Known Member
No the mig welding will be just fine ...
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