The Other 68 Dart Resto Project

[Nitrous340Dart]

thanks Flyboy,
What kind of starter are you going to run? If you dont care about running the stock stuff go down to your parts store and ask for a early 90s v6 Dakota starter. Its about the same size as a high dollar "mini starter" and works just the same. It turn my 10.5:1 340 with out any problems.

 

[flyboy01]

I have two stock starters, when they go, I will just switch to a mini, but budgets are tight now. I have to be careful where I spend my money.

 

[340sFastback]

Why? I understand it looks pretty, but what is the difference? Its only one tube and it does not have to look pretty because it will be hidden, the welds that Hedman made sure are sloppy, they are not tig'd. Is there any other reason to tig?

I think the MIG will have the tendency to "burn through" the thin metal and possibly leave pin holes. But if you are good with a MIG it can be done. I'd use .025" wire and C25 gas for best results.

 

[flyboy01]

The Passenger header is ready, just a few clearance dimples for the idler arm and a few dimples where it hit the block and trans, but this has nothing to do with A-body, it looks to be a manufacturing inconsistency. The drivers side just tuches the torsion bar, I will have to pound it a little deeper, or cut and reroute the tube, I have to wait to get the steering box so I can figure out if I can cut it or not.

Also, I ended up ordering a new EZ Wiring harness for the car, the stock one is getting junked.

 

[bthieson]

Where did you order the wiring harness from?

 

[flyboy01]

ebay

 

[flyboy01]

No progress to report, I can't get the headers fit until I get a manual steering box, then I can pull the engine and start sanding and priming the engine bay, when that happens, I can get the whole car sprayed in epoxy primer.

 

[flyboy01]

Update:

Here is my nemisis. The damn tie rod knuckle. Everything fit pretty well with these headers, but the pass side tie rod knuckle has me pulling the header out numerous times to clearance it. After the last clearancing, the idler arm clears fine, but the tie rod does not, I am going to try and clearance it one more time, but if this dont work and the pipe is too pinched, I am going to cut and reweld that tube.

I also fitted the V/C and intake to the engine. Its clear that the air cleaner will not clear the opening in the hood as everything is just too tall, I am going to have to sell it and go with a K&N 11" filter top. I have a hole cut in the hood for the scoop, but this air cleaner is just too wide. The valve covers do clear the power brake booster (good because I wanted to keep the power brakes), and the blower moter for the ac box probably will not fit, but I am going to cover it up anyway, later I am going to add a Hotrod Air A/C and heater unit that will fit entireley under dash. Dont mind the colors of the block and heads, they are just for mock up, my other engine will be 68 Mopar turquoise.

 

[69 Valiant Kid]

looks good flyboy...i think the chrysler blue and black valve covers look good on that..thats what ill be doing....

 

['64 Cuda]

Not to hijack the thread, but does anybody know of a powder coat color that is similar to the color of the intake in flyboy01's pic? I have a brand new aluminum manifold & it's not the same color as the manifolds I bought in the 70's. It's sort of a dark silver color & I'm looking for something with a bit more of a white to grayish cast to it. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!

 

[flyboy01]

Not to hijack the thread, but does anybody know of a powder coat color that is similar to the color of the intake in flyboy01's pic? I have a brand new aluminum manifold & it's not the same color as the manifolds I bought in the 70's. It's sort of a dark silver color & I'm looking for something with a bit more of a white to grayish cast to it. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!

Have your intake bead blasted, thats why mine is so light.

 

[CudaChick1968]

... does anybody know of a powder coat color that is similar to the color of the intake in flyboy01's pic? I have a brand new aluminum manifold & it's not the same color as the manifolds I bought in the 70's. It's sort of a dark silver color & I'm looking for something with a bit more of a white to grayish cast to it. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!

'64 Cuda, I can maybe help you out on that one. There's a powder color called Blasted Aluminum that is a very light grey with a minimal texture to it. It's the one 95% of my customers pick who are looking for that OEM factory look. You can see lots of examples of it on my website Gallery. (It was also used on Memike's well publicized pictures of his Offenhauser for that slant 6 he's working on, so if you've been following his Valiant build and/or reading his posts, you're probably already familiar with it.)

I hope this helps.

 

[flyboy01]

The difference is that casting are better quality now, so the smoother appearance has a darker color, but it stays cleaner longer.

 

['64 Cuda]

Maybe the blasted aluminum color is what I'm looking for. Maybe I'm jus old, but the newer manifolds just don't look right to me. Leanna, I went to view your slideshow & my computer monitor caught fire! :-D

 

[CudaChick1968]

Maybe the blasted aluminum color is what I'm looking for. Maybe I'm jus old, but the newer manifolds just don't look right to me. Leanna, I went to view your slideshow & my computer monitor caught fire! :-D

That's pretty funny! You always knew redheads were hot.

<< duckin and runnin

 

['64 Cuda]

That's pretty funny! You always knew redheads were hot.

<< duckin and runnin

Gee. I was just talking about the flames that were burning in the background on your site. I could quote what a good friend of mine used to say about the redheads he'd met, but then I'd probably be the one who was "duckin and runnin."

 

[CudaChick1968]

Gee. I was just talking about the flames that were burning in the background on your site. I could quote what a good friend of mine used to say about the redheads he'd met, but then I'd probably be the one who was "duckin and runnin."

I've spent my life out in the garage with the boys ... not much offends me so bring it on!!!! :-D

This is a terrific thread. I sure enjoy watching the transformations. Flyboy, you've put a lot of work into that baby and it shows ... you've got my admiration!!

 

[flyboy01]

OK, I'm back to work on the Dart. I had to take over a month off while trying to find a house and get a loan, now I have accepted the sellers counter offer and I'm just waiting for closing. Now I can concentrate on my Dart.

I finally got the steering box I have been waiting for months on, I got it cleaned up and I'm just waiting for my linkage to come now. As soon as I get those, I will do the final test fit on the headers and make any mods needed. Since I will be moving in about a months time, I have to pack my current garage up. I will try to get as many parts as possible in the Dart, then tow it over. As soon as I get it there, I will get the primer and paint sprayed on. I have most of the parts for the engine and trans, I just need to assemble them all together. and put them in.

 

[George R]

Good Luck with the new house!
Congratulations to you!!

George

 

[flyboy01]

After abandoning my Dart for 6 weeks while I was trying to buy a house, and doing a bit of travelling for work, I decided to work on the Dart today. I started assembling the short block.

As it is:

71 383 block and crank. Bored .030, decks angle milled .041-.044 each side, lifter bores honed, DeTar oil galley mods, 1/2" oil pickup, HV oil pump.

9.73:1 Flat top pistons, .125 valve releifs cut. Speedpro Cromemoly rings, reconditioned rods, ARP rod bolts.

906 heads, new valves, cut for PC seals up to .600 lift, port matched intake ports, Isky ductile adjustable rockers.

Mopar .509 cam, Hydraulic lifters, double roller set, electronic dist, orange box. The engine is set up for more cam, but I am going to give this one a shot, I can always change it later.

Edelbrock RPM intake, Speed Demon 750 carb, 1 3/4 Hedman headers, 9" Dynamic converter.

So, thats my combo so far. here is what i did today:


Today I started assembling the short block. I cleaned the short block, tapped all the bolt holes, installed the main bearings, torqued the caps, checked clearances (.0015), dropped in the crank and installed the rear seal.

Oh, and i almost forgot, if you drop a crank off a table, you can break its fall with your foot! DOH!


Besides crushing my foot, I had a good day, I almost forgot how theraputic it can be.

 

[flyboy01]

Nothing exciting, just a few pics to bore you.

 

[CanadianGT]

I remember helping a guy back in grade 12 put one of those together. He half assed so much of it I don't know if it ever got running.

 

[flyboy01]

Yup, you need to put it together right if you intend to make it last. In my HS auto class, some guys put together a slant 6 that was so tight, it could not be turned over with a 2 ft breaker bar. They got a fail for their project, it turned out to be a lot of dirt and grit in all the bearings, so much that they were trashed.

 

[flyboy01]

Sorry it has been so long since I last posted, unfortunately the Dart has not been touched since the last post. I bought a house and I have been restoring it for the past month or so, I do however have a cool new garage to work on the car, hopefully I will have paint on the car witha a month or two.

 

[redfastback]

none of your pics came up. glad to hear about the new garage.