I jave a B&B in my 66 and have stuck the pedal a couple times. Many of the old racers would screw a stop block to the floor.
Thoughts on resurfacing a pressure plate - yay or nay?
- Thread starter Righty Tighty
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So that means I'm next, just because you accomplished it? OOOO Kaaay
Good thing my little 273 can rev.
Quick update. I tried three different methods just as a little experiment: WD-40 and 400 grit, blue Roloc, and maroon Scotch Brite. I was deliberately non-aggressive, just wanted to see what a little effort would produce.
Below is Scotch Brite
Next is Roloc
And finally the sandpaper
So, I think I'll hit the entire thing with a Roloc wheel and finish with Scotch Brite to see what I get. The areas where the rust stains are, look a lot worse in the photo. I can barely feel them with my finger and can't catch a fingernail on them at all.
Below is Scotch Brite
Next is Roloc
And finally the sandpaper
So, I think I'll hit the entire thing with a Roloc wheel and finish with Scotch Brite to see what I get. The areas where the rust stains are, look a lot worse in the photo. I can barely feel them with my finger and can't catch a fingernail on them at all.
jeff alder
Well-Known Member
thanks for the update and the pictures. You certainly have a useable part there. It's not like it's a cam or crank bearing. I would use it especially in a daily driver.
Thanks, I was actually going to touch on that in this reply -- that I'm not sure what the acceptable tolerances are for pressure plates. I don't know if they need to be absolutely flawless like crank bearings, or can they have some imperfections? But you answered before I could ask.
Here's how it cleaned up after maybe 10 minutes of work.
Obviously not perfect, but I think I'll keep it on the shelf as opposed to tossing it. Once again I appreciate the help. You guys are all awesome.
Look at that and the money you saved! Not a damn thing wrong with that going back in...
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I love my fly-weighted CenterForce diaphragm. She goes 7200 many times a day/everyday, and has never stuck.
I missed a shift once an as I glanced at the tach, the needle was coming down past the "8" lol.
My pp doesn't look as good as yours but works perfect. I have slipped the crap out of it on occasion, even cooked the factory 340 disks, even tore the linings off, and spit all the springs out, and one time, there wasn't much hub keeping it together; she was new in around 2002. She probably has over 135,000 miles on her.
I missed a shift once an as I glanced at the tach, the needle was coming down past the "8" lol.
My pp doesn't look as good as yours but works perfect. I have slipped the crap out of it on occasion, even cooked the factory 340 disks, even tore the linings off, and spit all the springs out, and one time, there wasn't much hub keeping it together; she was new in around 2002. She probably has over 135,000 miles on her.
Thank you, sir. I've left the shop for the day, but I do have a machinist's straight edge that I'll use to check once I'm back. I feel pretty confident in my abilities using abrasives, but obviously doing anything by hand will never be as good as securing your work to a machine that has an X- Y- axis.
Lets not make this go the way of the turning rotor thread.... he took the "scars" off with a Roloc pad and some Scotchbrite. Neither of which removed any appreciable metal...
Funny how as some get older and they want to spend more money. We had it correct when were were poor teens, making a buck 90 an hour on a good day. Quick scuff with some sandpaper on the flywheel and pressure plate, new clutch disc and throw it back together. Then right back to terrorizing the locals for another couple of years! And that work took place between the last weekends cruise and the next Friday night, as you HAD to be seen on the street or you were the laughing stock of town!
Yep ,
It seems most people love to throw money at problems now .
I don’t see how any of my stuff ever ran at all now .
Now on a race engine,,,I agree,,,to really keep an eye on parts quality and a good replacement regiment.
However,,,most street stuff will never know the difference .
Why spend 5 grand on an engine rebuild to gain 10 HP ?
(Oh yeah,,,,that’s 5 grand on a stock rebuild !)
Oh well,,,whatever makes people feel good,,,,Frankly,,,,,spending money needlessly never helped my self esteem .
Lol.
Tommy
It seems most people love to throw money at problems now .
I don’t see how any of my stuff ever ran at all now .
Now on a race engine,,,I agree,,,to really keep an eye on parts quality and a good replacement regiment.
However,,,most street stuff will never know the difference .
Why spend 5 grand on an engine rebuild to gain 10 HP ?
(Oh yeah,,,,that’s 5 grand on a stock rebuild !)
Oh well,,,whatever makes people feel good,,,,Frankly,,,,,spending money needlessly never helped my self esteem .
Lol.
Tommy
I don't know what that means, but either rotors or pressure plates can wear appreciably uneven from use, with nothing to so with how much you remove or how you did it. In other words, the PP may be convex or concave or otherwise uneven, regardless of sand paper. So can the flywheel, of course.
Just so you know, in my 15ish years selling parts, I've turned thousands of rotors and drums. All the way from Fiats and Vee Dubs to over the road truck trailer drums.. I still have an Ammco drum / disc lathe, which I put to good use doing the Grey Whale 4WD conversion
My machinist's square isn't in the greatest condition, but it's still straight. Here's how it matched up. Less than .001" all around, I think I'm gonna call that good.
JD’sBarracuda
Active Member
First of all, what does the disk look like? What about the flywheel? If the disk is good and the flywheel has been resurfaced I’d clean it up and run it
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
Parts like that get put in the blast cabinet around here. I have been known to do rotors with the bearing races removed and after a thorough cleaning. That takes no metal.
TheRacerDave
Well-Known Member
You got past the burn marks, so they were shallow. It'll work for a driver.
The disk looks fine to me, I'll post some pictures and see what you all think. The flywheel is gone, so if I do decide to build something, I'll be acquiring a new or new-to-me flywheel.
I didn't think about the blast cabinet, that would've been a good way to go!
Makes me wonder, is it desirable to have a bit of texture? As in - would it help the disk grip the pressure plate? My cabinet currently has garnet media, and it tends to leave some slight texture as opposed to glass bead or Scotch Brite, which leaves a bit of a smoother finish.
TheRacerDave
Well-Known Member
When you say the flywheel is "gone," do you mean absent, or the surface is is bad? Most automotive machine shops can resurface it if it's just burned or rusty. If it's missing, they can't help you
When I raced a stick car it was routine to resurface flywheels when changing a clutch. I have actually taken a brand new flywheel (import crap, but it was SFI approved) to be resurfaced before using it because as it came the face was just turned on a lathe. A Blanchard ground surface is preferred, and the process also ensures the clutch surface will be parallel to the crank flange.
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I gave the old flywheel to a local guy looking for one, so I no longer have it. At the time, I forgot that I still had this pressure plate and clutch disk, otherwise I probably would've kept it.
Good info about surfacing the flywheel, thanks for that.
Good info about surfacing the flywheel, thanks for that.
74RRunner
Active Member
Lol
That's what counts.
People "African American Engineered" things and drove the **** out of them daily. Now you drive your cars rarely in comparison, and not as hard as you "think" you are going! There is waaaaaay too much overthinking of stuff today. Make it work, drive whenever you can, and enjoy the fact that you did it. Don't spend money in worthless invisible places.
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