Thoughts on this combo

-

T-N-T

WMMC Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Messages
371
Reaction score
133
Location
WI
Street toy, will see occasional highway use and track time. 3800# weight

How's this for a start???

'78 360 30k
.020 over, zero deck, line bored
Block oiling mods
Stock crank
ARP main studs and bolts
Rods??(undecided)
KB 107's or SP H116's flat top pistons 10.8 SCR 8.3 DCR
Eddy 60779 RPM heads light handwork(possible Shady Dell porting)
Hughes 1.6 roller rockers
Comp XE285HL cam
Eddy Performer RPM intake
Holley 770 Street Avenger (or should I go with an 870?)
Pertronix Billet Igniter III distributor and their 60k HC e-coil
TTI stepped headers w/3" duals

3k-3.5k stall
Built non-lockup wide ratio 999 trans
3.55-3.91 rear gear and locker

Thinking 450 or more HP as an end result.

Tossing around a forged 408 stroker kit if money permits. I kinda like the 360's rod to stroke and bore to stroke ratios better though. I guess I'm old school.

Your thoughts and input are appreciated.

cheers.gif
 
I think, and I could be wrong, you're not gonna hit the 450 mark with the stock stroke. Or the Performer. The AirGap is such a proven intake, why not choose it over the old Performer. Since you've done the oil system mods I'm assuming you're goinna spin this thing to 7 grand or so. Might want to look at at a premium rod.

Don't much like the Street Avenger carbs myself. Double pumper mechanical secondary all the way.

Looks like pretty darn good start though...GOOD LUCK!
 
Wrong cam wrong intake wrong carb and wrong headers. Other than that, good to go.

lol.gif


Well I guess it's a good thing I haven't bought the cam, carb or headers yet. The RPM intake was just sitting on my shelf collecting dust... That is the tallest intake that will fit under the hood though.


So what intake, cam, carb and headers are "right".
excuseme.gif
 
If you are going to tell him what is wrong...how about telling him what is right....LOL

That was kinda what I thought, but at least it was a start.
thumbsup.gif


So what are your thoughts???
thinking.gif
 
Performer RPM and Air Gap are the same intake except for the air gap having an air gap...lol

the air gap fits fine under my 71 Duster...73 Duster..

you want the best HP...buy a holley double pumper
 
If you are going to tell him what is wrong...how about telling him what is right....LOL

About once a month or so he jumps on the forum and makes these negative comments calling people keyboard drag racers all of the while we never see a picture of his own car!????
 
If that cam is [email protected], she might not like the wide ratio gears in that 904.
I like your combo.But I want to say that, that cam might be too much for a street toy, and 3.55s, and the wide-ratio 904. Might be.
http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/11360dynotestfeb2000.php


For comparison I'll tell you what I'm running;
Long block like yours,a Hughes HE3038AL which I believe is a 276/286 cam.Rpm-AG and 750DP,and TTIs.
Dynomite street manners.T-N-T
I'm also at 3800# ready to to run. I run a 3.09low/direct 4th M/T, 3.55s, and have a GV o/d for 2250 rpm @65mph.
My combo has a ton of off-the-line giddy-up,(10.97 starter gear). The powerband is very wide and very flat. And it revs to 7200 regularly. There does not seem to be a pronounced power peak.And it has enough power to go 93mph in the 1/8th with no track tuning whatsoever.
I tried the Purple 292/508/108 cam. I did not like it, even with a stick.
If I was to do mine over, the only things I would change is my cam LDA, and try a bit of porting.I would try a little tighter LDA.This would trade away a bit of low speed torque, for a bit more power up top( I like the feel of the engine as it powers through the powerpeak).If I did that I'd probably add a few intake degrees. Someday,I would like to try a 280/284/106 cam,(my fourth cam).

I don't think you will be disappointed with your outlined long block combo. I know I am not.
 
Performer RPM and Air Gap are the same intake except for the air gap having an air gap...lol

the air gap fits fine under my 71 Duster...73 Duster..

you want the best HP...buy a holley double pumper


My car is actually a '78 Magnum. I kinda wanted to keep it a sleeper and need a car I can get in and fit my 6'3" body comfortably.

I want to get it right the first time since I have a lower back and neck fusion along with a brain tumor. I'm pretty close to being a cripple.
cripple.gif



The Air Gap is taller isn't it? Someone stole my ported LD340 intake I had a few years ago. :banghead:

Street manners and economy are part of my goal, not just max horsepower.

I posted here because you guys seem to know small blocks better.
smirk.gif


What double pumper would you recommend? A 750 or should I go larger. I picked a vacuum secondary carb for street manners. I'd like to maintain a slight amount of manners.

The '71 340 'Cuda I had ran 11.70's with a 750 double pumper or a 850 vacuum secondary carb on street tires. It was slightly crisper on the street with the 850 once it was dialed in and was a touch faster on the street too.


I'm open to all reasonable suggestions. :D
 
There is absolutely Zero economy in that 284 cam

In a previous iteration, that exact same combo I have, had a Hughes HE2430AL cam, which is a 270/276/110, and with 1.6arms was .538/.549lift. This was a tyre fryer with 275s. It was very happy with a wide-ratio tranny. It pulled right off idle to whenever.I ran it with ratios down to 2.76s. One time I ran it with a double overdrive that was equal to 2.02 FinalDrive, and it pulled [email protected] think it power-peaked around 5300, but it didn't know when to quit.
It ran a 12.9 right off/ no tuning.Same AG and 750DP
It burned 87E10.
I set-up a 600Vacuum secondary for the highway and it pulled down 32 mpgUS, on a 10 hour trip.
Same engine,same car.Same dual 3inch pipes and Dynomaxers.It was a little heavier with passenger and gear;probably 4000 lbs.
 
If that cam is [email protected], she might not like the wide ratio gears in that 904.
I like your combo.But I want to say that, that cam might be too much for a street toy, and 3.55s, and the wide-ratio 904. Might be.
http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/11360dynotestfeb2000.php


For comparison I'll tell you what I'm running;
Long block like yours,a Hughes HE3038AL which I believe is a 276/286 cam.Rpm-AG and 750DP,and TTIs.
Dynomite street manners.T-N-T
I'm also at 3800# ready to to run. I run a 3.09low/direct 4th M/T, 3.55s, and have a GV o/d for 2250 rpm @65mph.
My combo has a ton of off-the-line giddy-up,(10.97 starter gear). The powerband is very wide and very flat. And it revs to 7200 regularly. There does not seem to be a pronounced power peak.And it has enough power to go 93mph in the 1/8th with no track tuning whatsoever.
I tried the Purple 292/508/108 cam. I did not like it, even with a stick.
If I was to do mine over, the only things I would change is my cam LDA, and try a bit of porting.I would try a little tighter LDA.This would trade away a bit of low speed torque, for a bit more power up top( I like the feel of the engine as it powers through the powerpeak).If I did that I'd probably add a few intake degrees. Someday,I would like to try a 280/284/106 cam,(my fourth cam).

I don't think you will be disappointed with your outlined long block combo. I know I am not.

I missed your response I type slow. That Hughes cam isn't made anymore. I think this cam replaced it. http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...Y2sgIkxBIg==&level1=Q2Ftc2hhZnQ=&partid=30243

I'm should be at 3800 less gas and my fat *** once I finish lightening it.

I didn't like the 292/508 cam either.

Thanks for your time and input.
thumbsup.gif
I appreciate it.
 
Yeah Hughes changes their cam specs like every 15 minutes. And they don't publish the advertised. I can't figure out their game .
Good stuff tho.

I had a wide-ratio 904 no loc-up, behind my teener winter motor.The stock-cammed teener liked it with 2.76s to 3.55s; the chunks I tried.But I shifted that lil sweetheart at just 5000.The stall was about 2400
 
I like the specs this cam has but DCR might be an issue. http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...Y2sgIkxBIg==&level1=Q2Ftc2hhZnQ=&partid=30242

I have a standard gear set for the 999 if needed too. I just like the the wide ratio trans better.

As for economy I'd be happy with 10-12mpg for general driving. It's been about 15 years since I built a engine for myself. Choices sure has changed since then.

Maybe a 408 would be a better choice. I would like it to be as fast as my old 340 'Cuda was, faster if possible.
 
Yup. If you want 11s at 3800pounds, AND mild street manners, a stroker will get you there. Wear a brace.

It sure looks that way. I bet a 408 would work great with the wide ratio trans. Better piston choices to achieve the right DCR with a smaller cam too.

I'd go with a forged crank for piece of mind.

I have a brace for use with a helmet and a couple others that work good without a helmet already.
 
I don't know what the heck Yellow Rose is squaking about. I do think the main studs are a bit over kill. But what ever makes you sleep soundly at night. Better off over built then under built and over abused.

I also have a '79 Magnum. It currently has a bone stock '00 - 5.9 with bolt on's in it. No cam or head swap yet. RPM intake, Hooker Super Comps, small AVS. Getting there.itll just be a cruiser. My Reggie says 3675lbs. OE 318 auto buckets & console, AC, PB, PS, electric window car.

I have run the RPM Air Gap for a long time now. It is an excellent street, street strip intake. The regular RPM is heated, so it is a more flexible year round intake. Your cam choice. Someone can always come up with a better one and/or rank on what you put in. So long as it works with the compression ratio, gears, converter, you'll be fine.

IMO, there's only 2 headers to look at. TTI's or the 1-3/4 Hooker Super Comp headers which do not route under the steering linkage. Great starter & ground clearance.

I have run the KB-107's twice before. The new 360 for the wife's ride will have the 116 slugs. A 750 would do fine for the 360 & an 850 for the stroker. I'd stroke it if the funds are there.

3.55's are a bit low for the intended cam duration. I also wouldn't worry about a cast crank but for the price, strength and the abuse it will take, forged is the ticket. Can't argue that. But is it really needed?
 
I ran a 750 on my 408 and it feeds it just fine
With the smalish cam and stock valve train I am running she reclines at 5800 though
(Really no need to review her higher, since there is over 440 footpounds available from 2800 ram on)

But if you build yours to review higher, a bigger carb might be in order
 
About once a month or so he jumps on the forum and makes these negative comments calling people keyboard drag racers all of the while we never see a picture of his own car!????



Really dude? You are a waste of time. And a cry baby.
 
Street toy, will see occasional highway use and track time. 3800# weight

How's this for a start???

'78 360 30k
.020 over, zero deck, line bored
Block oiling mods
Stock crank
ARP main studs and bolts
Rods??(undecided)
KB 107's or SP H116's flat top pistons 10.8 SCR 8.3 DCR
Eddy 60779 RPM heads light handwork(possible Shady Dell porting)
Hughes 1.6 roller rockers
Comp XE285HL cam
Eddy Performer RPM intake
Holley 770 Street Avenger (or should I go with an 870?)
Pertronix Billet Igniter III distributor and their 60k HC e-coil
TTI stepped headers w/3" duals

3k-3.5k stall
Built non-lockup wide ratio 999 trans
3.55-3.91 rear gear and locker

Thinking 450 or more HP as an end result.

Tossing around a forged 408 stroker kit if money permits. I kinda like the 360's rod to stroke and bore to stroke ratios better though. I guess I'm old school.

Your thoughts and input are appreciated.

cheers.gif



I can tell you for a FACT, if you don't spend a bunch of dyno time and have several cams to change and test, step headers are a JOKE. I have seen more cash blown on junk like that than you can imagine.

Same for the cam. Why not spend a little more and have a cam custom ground to fit your particular application? Damn it blows me away to see guys stepping over donuts to pick up dog turds. You want stepped headers (good ones START at about $900.00 and go up from there) but you want an off the shelf cam that is universal fit? What gives?

You can spend about the same money on a carb that is tuneable. A Quick Fuel 750 double pumper comes to mind. If you go over 370 inches you need an 850. Over 400 will use a 950 (providing you get the rest of the combo correct).

The manifold I could live with if you had it.

there, do we all feel better now? Since I'm busy I don't post here much, because of the cry babies and the knaves.

Or, you can build you stuff like jpar and go slow and break stuff.

Either way I'm cool with it.



EDIT for the OP: even if you do spend a boat load of money on cams, spend several days on the dyno, flog the hell out of it, you will STILL maybe, MAYBE find 10 HONEST HP in the RPM you can use it. I'm dead serious. And then, you should keep testing (if your dollar to HP ratio is that skewed i.e. maximum dollar spent per HP) and get some more cams (because we all KNOW that you can just swap headers and NOT make a cam change...well you can, but you leave some on the table) and start testing collectors. You can change diameter, length, switch to a merge collector, adjust the angle of the merge and all the while, you MUST change the cam based on the results you see. This is so because this whole exercise is based on increasing (or correcting) the exhaust function. Which will allow you to change the intake lobe design. Yes there is no santa clause. Step headers, like christmas, were designed to see the average joe something he doesn't need but it damn sure sounds cool. Like the "H" pipe (which I have made more money taking junk like that off) the merge crossover (more of the same) the step header is a very SPECIFIC part for a very SPECIFIC application. You won't bolt them on and rotate the earth. I can tell you if you correctly spec you cam/intake/carb and use a CORRECT conventional 4-1 header the best you will get with a step header is a lighter wallet. That you can take to the BANK for sure. The header guy may tell you different because he has something to sell you. I'm not selling you anything.


hope that helps and makes the nattering naybobs happy (I know it won't but......)
 
How would you go about it?

I guess you would start by looking at post #20, just ONE post above your LAST post. If that is not in depth enough for you, you can call me. I charge by the 5 minute block, to your debit or credit card.

Done with the explicit freebie stuff.


EDIT: I added some to post 20, because my day revolves around keeping rumble happy.
 
How would you go about it?

If I had to guess he would suggest an annular discharge mechanical secondary carb, some 1 3/4" headers and a deep ported air gap rpm or victor intake along with a custom mechanical roller cam ground on 106 or so to start with.
 
I guess you would start by looking at post #20, just ONE post above your LAST post. If that is not in depth enough for you, you can call me. I charge by the 5 minute block, to your debit or credit card.

Done with the explicit freebie stuff.


EDIT: I added some to post 20, because my day revolves around keeping rumble happy.

Thanks for the edit. I didn't read it until after making my last post. I get your point and appreciate the added input. There's some good stuff there, I'm not complaining.
 
I guess you would start by looking at post #20, just ONE post above your LAST post. If that is not in depth enough for you, you can call me. I charge by the 5 minute block, to your debit or credit card.

Done with the explicit freebie stuff.


EDIT: I added some to post 20, because my day revolves around keeping rumble happy.

Ahhh, thanks YR. It's in depth enough to make some people think. Not me, I agree. However, it is void of any specifics, which is OK by me but doesn't really help light a path for anybody else. Which could be bad for any application other than ones own.
 
-
Back
Top