They said the motor would only make around 230 hp, I said it would be closer to 300 hp, maybe 10 or so off. Basically they were doubting all the work I did, so I said the loser pays the equal cost of the dyno session. So if I lost, it would cost me double. When I got back to them with the actual cost, they said hell no and they will do like 100 bucks. So that was not worth it for all that at the time and they backed off.
Very true, I've done it before with another one of my vehicles.
Lol. That decision would be easier if it was $450 cheaper.
i shall not be bullied into putting a motor on the pump!
Why I oughta...
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^100% This. J.Rob
Totally agree with this ^^^. Not to be a dick but a 'teen with those heads/cam and very low compression will likely not crack 300hp. You are probably looking at 250-260hp and that may sound real dissapointing but I am sure it will run and drive awesome especially in a 4 door. Also that intake is not great at producing HP at all. I have a link with a 318 that I tested and it had a hard time breaking 300hp with aluminum small chamber heads that probably flow 70-80cfm more than your iron heads. I find 'teens are a very tricky animal to "nail" because they are so easy to over cam. Concerning your camshaft I like it alot--however I expect you to have noticeable valvetrain tick due to the very fast ramp rate-AMHIK-lol.
Those calculators say a 275 hp 340 duster should do low 13's stock (12's if you believe a stock 340 makes more hp), funny how math (based off what ?) is considered more accurate than a purpose built measuring tool that cost idk $100k + ?
The same #'s factory 340's put up.
Lol.
I've done that for another one of my vehicles, it was much cheaper and a good learning experience. l also found out air filters can rob around 5 hp shown on the chassis dyno.
I have an idea for an experiment for that. If I can prevent wheel spin and severe shock load, then maybe there is a chance the rear end can survive.
That's what I need, an engine run stand. I think the local machine shop around here has one. I'll will have to ask the owner what the cost for time and labor would be.
In one sense that's true. You'll be tuning with your fuel, fuel system, ignition system, etc, not the dyno stuff. If the CAR has problems, it will show up on a chassis dyno.
Running the engine on a stand takes care of initial break-in and any concerns about issues - if the price is reasonable.
In my book, repeated visits to a dragstrip is not a downside.Running the engine on a stand takes care of initial break-in and any concerns about issues - if the price is reasonable.
Utility of the chassis dyno depends heavily on the operator or you, and what you want to get out of it. For full power mid to top end an inertia dyno will show which changes add or subract more Hp for each change. If its got WBO2 tail sniffer you can also see if the AFR is drifting during the pull and things like that.
That said, the mph in the 1/4 will get you pretty close, usually for less money, but depending on how busy the track is, may take longer, and even repeated visits. Plus you get to run the 1/4 mile.
For cruising and throttle response you'll need an eddy-current dyno and an operator that knows how to work it for those things. That's a rarity. Expect to do the street tuning on your own.
