IMO, converter is not the issue if only dropping 50-75 rpm.
Torker 2 vs Performer RPM?
- Thread starter scooby67
- Start date
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I'll double check on that number for you tomorrow. Don't hold me to it. Although, with a supposed 3000 stall convertor, I'm rolling at 1000rpm. My revs don't go up at all prior to movement.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Just to be clear, the reason i mentioned handling the converter first was that if you decided to change it and had a true 3000ish stall speed you may have the low end grunt your looking for and may be plenty happy keeping the Torker II.
Doosterfy
Well-Known Member
Dude, its low and fits under most stock hoods which is very important to some people like me.
Like I have said, I'm new to Mopars so IDK what to expect but my experience with them on GM engines has been good. My buddy had a Nova with a flat top 350, nearly stock iron heads, a 500 lift 280 advertised duration flat hyd. cam and we got it into the 11.80s at 113 on pump gas and no power adder at over 3300 lbs. The torker II is the intake people love to hate. I will deffinately post my results good or bad.
I agree with you. The converter doesn't allow me to get any rev's built before launch. Like I said, I'm not unhappy with the Torker. I just thought the Performer would be better.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
I'm sure some will not realize that there is sarcasm in this post......lol
Told ya'
Don't think i did this right, but it stems from IQ52's earlier post #15.
Yeah IQ52's post was LOADED with sarcasm!
IMO, you need to find out why the idle vacuum is so weak in Park/Neutral. Not knowing the cam profile certainly doesn't help.
Have you put your foot in the converter with brakes applied to see where it stalls that way and find where it flashes?
Never saw a response to some of the suggestions people have made regarding settings, adjustments, etc.
IMO, you need to find out why the idle vacuum is so weak in Park/Neutral. Not knowing the cam profile certainly doesn't help.
Have you put your foot in the converter with brakes applied to see where it stalls that way and find where it flashes?
Never saw a response to some of the suggestions people have made regarding settings, adjustments, etc.
Doosterfy
Well-Known Member
Yea, I guess I missed the sarcasim. I just clicked the link and I'd say the motor (a 496 stroker) made good usable power. I'd be happier than a pig in you know what with this motor in my Duster. LOLI'm sure some will not realize that there is sarcasm in this post......lol
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Doosterfy, i didn't mean to make you the brunt of a joke. I just knew someone sooner or later would mistake what he meant. I hope we're still good:smile:?
Doosterfy
Well-Known Member
No not at all. It was funny and I have very thick skin. He got me and thats that..LOL
My apologies to anyone who feels like I "got them"! I thought it would be obvious, through the dyno results, that I considered the Torker II to be a very good manifold. If I owned a Torker II, which I do, I would not switch it for a Performer RPM and if I already own a Performer RPM, I'm not switching it for a Torker II.
famous bob
mopar misfit
any of you guys ever had a torquer 2 flowed/ I did, then opened up the short runners as much as possible to make them flow like the tall runners, not done w/ it yet. when I get done I`ll have it reflowed, will post the diff. for those of you that are interested----bob
Fisher
Old Guy with a Cool car.
I was told by a couple diffeent converter shops the only way to check true stall speed is on the 1-2 shift where does your tach needle land on the shift and how long does it sit there? till it starts moving. I had a 708 hp BBC camaro with a Coan Glide and 5000 stall. on the 1-2 shift at 7000 rpm the tach wold drop to 5200 rpm then climb. Converters are black magic at best, when you start to pay $1500.00 and up for a converter, your going to get a good one that stalls where it is supposed too. The blue box specials for a few hundred bucks are a waste of time and money.
I bought the TCI street fighter. With my dyno sheet, TCI claims this will flash/ stall to 3400. Will see when i get it in the car.
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/catalogsearch/result/?order=relevance&q=142200
I bought the TCI street fighter. With my dyno sheet, TCI claims this will flash/ stall to 3400. Will see when i get it in the car.
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/catalogsearch/result/?order=relevance&q=142200
Fisher
Old Guy with a Cool car.
As for the intake. typically a single plane intake will work best above 3000 rpm, not very good below that. Its a total combination of all the parts. A few mismatched parts and the car will be a dog. You will spend forever chasing it with new parts. This is why i used to hate the car magazines that lied about combos and ho fast the cars went. now the internet has take that job. Go speak to a reliable engine builder who has built performance engines and get him to design a motor for the application your seeking.
moparlover
Well-Known Member
I'm kinda thinking the low vacuum is some other issue...
you would need a little small leak, or else a huge cam to only get 5lbs
I posted pics of that carb over here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970311924#post1970311924
anything not used make sure it's plugged.
you would need a little small leak, or else a huge cam to only get 5lbs
I posted pics of that carb over here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970311924#post1970311924
anything not used make sure it's plugged.
Why all the confusion, the recipes have been written for over 40 years.
yea I know. we have some new tech and new toys, better?
I still run the holley street dominator on my 383, never felt the need to change.
recheck your recipe, something is wrong or mismatched.
yea I know. we have some new tech and new toys, better?
I still run the holley street dominator on my 383, never felt the need to change.
recheck your recipe, something is wrong or mismatched.
My opinions from months earlier were based on flowbench results. Here we go, two dyno runs, the first with the RPM and the second with with the Torker II. Same engine, same day, only difference is the manifold. Both manifolds were OOTB.
RPM................RPM manifold................Torker II
3000................434 TQ/248 HP.........407 TQ/232 HP
3200.....................463/282..................416/253
3400.....................492/319..................466/301
3600.....................500/343..................481/330
3800.....................504/365..................474/343
4000.....................493/375..................456/347
4200.....................490/392..................462/369
4400.....................489/410..................482/404
4600.....................482/423..................482/422
4800.....................481/439..................484/443
5000.....................488/464..................484/461
5200.....................484/479..................479/474
5400.....................485/499..................482/495
5600.....................460/491..................461/492
5800.....................454/502..................454/502
Oh yeah. What engine? Pop's 440.
RPM................RPM manifold................Torker II
3000................434 TQ/248 HP.........407 TQ/232 HP
3200.....................463/282..................416/253
3400.....................492/319..................466/301
3600.....................500/343..................481/330
3800.....................504/365..................474/343
4000.....................493/375..................456/347
4200.....................490/392..................462/369
4400.....................489/410..................482/404
4600.....................482/423..................482/422
4800.....................481/439..................484/443
5000.....................488/464..................484/461
5200.....................484/479..................479/474
5400.....................485/499..................482/495
5600.....................460/491..................461/492
5800.....................454/502..................454/502
Oh yeah. What engine? Pop's 440.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Exactly. The OP's vaccum numbers indicate a not-very-mild cam, and combined with a single plane, the low end will not be good. There is nothing in that combination that will make low end torque. The use of dual planes with mild to wild longer duration cams works because the smaller and longer effective runner size will compensate for the cam's poor low end performance to some degree. (But then the increased high flow restrictions of the dual plane may choke off the cam's abilities at the high end.) So the overall RPM's range will get lower but will still not be very wide, and a WIDE RPM RANGE is what you want for a good street engine.
If streetablity is the goal, then the OP, IMO, would be better to keep the Torker for now and first change cams for a torque cam. This will still allow the engine to breathe at higher RPM's due to the high lift of the torque cam, and yet the cam will control the airflow at low RPM's with shorter duration and wider lobe srpead to make it good on the street. I have done this combo before and it is the way to go for a street car, IMO.
So called torque cams are still ground to get you pretty good airflow at higher RPM's; the race cams are set to get the MAX airflow and power out over a limited, higher RPM range and are matched with gears and converter for best ET's. But that is not the #1 objective in a good street drivable engine; wide RPM range is the goal. Guys get so caught up in the high duration cam and maximum horsepower numbers thing that they never back up to understand why to do a different combo for a different application, and to learn that ther are other excellent cam/intake/valve/exhaust combos.
And I am assuming that since the OP says he will never drag race the car, he wants better srteet driveability, but I would ask him to correct that idea if I am wrong.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Perchance are there numbers from this dyno test from 1500 or 2000 and up to 6500? Great info, BTW.
A 3000 stall doesn't mean the motor has to rev to 3000 before the car moves. My truck has one and it drives normally under light to moderate throttle input. Start mashing the throttle and it flashes to 3000 and hold there until everything catches up and the rpm start rising again. Truck has a 402 MP stroker, punched 20 and crosswind Air Gap. Hydraulic roller 288/292 duration
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKQxRe_M28I&list=UUCsRO0BWdOwqt8ZUnI6Eg5Q&feature=share"]0628131501 - YouTube[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKQxRe_M28I&list=UUCsRO0BWdOwqt8ZUnI6Eg5Q&feature=share"]0628131501 - YouTube[/ame]
famous bob
mopar misfit
you guys ever pull the carb off and look at the runner heigth on a torker 2 ? self explanitory on what needs to be done w/ it, I changed the flow at least 20 cfm by reworking mine, of course opening the flange up to fit my fast 2 throttle body was a good part of it, picked it up on ebay for $140, after a guy had it polished.(pretty) still about 30=35 cfm below my heads flow tho.
I wouldn`t change from one to the other on a r/b stroker, low end power ain`t a problem on em. will eventually go to the victor after I rework it for the bigger trottle body.
ssba
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't switch. I bought one and ran it two days and went back to the old tm7 I took off.
I like em jumpy the rpm was lazy on my engine compared to what I was used to.
I like em jumpy the rpm was lazy on my engine compared to what I was used to.
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