torquing intake bolts

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directconnection340

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Help! Anyone I installed my new weiand intake manifold. Im able to torgue all the bolts except the two on each side where the carburator port is. Am I missing something? Theres no way I can get a torque wrench on these 4 bolts at the angle they are

any help greatly appreaciated!!!!!!!!

directconnection340
 
You are not the first person to get have this happen. Tighten it up the same amount as the other bolts.
 
Put a wrench that you CAN get on the bolts on a bolt thats already torqued. Tighten with the wrench to the same amount.
(There ARE trick little attachments that can be put on a torque wrench that will enable you to get it on those bolts.....but they are used for aircraft maintenance, and NOT cheap).
 
Put a wrench on the ones you have already torqued and get a feel for what it takes to move them with the wrench . Then torque the centers with same wrench . Most people over tighten intake bolts not under tighten .
 
Use a 10 inch box wrench. With your finger nails facing up. Start in the center and work your way out. When the tips of your finger nails turn white your done. If your missing fingers you will have to adjust for that.
 
3/8” drive 9/16” torque adaptor (Proto 5118) Not required but is a must if you want to ensure the proper torque for several of the intake manifold bolts. It also prevented me from removing the distributor as I used it to remove/install the intake manifold bolt closest to the firewall that also holds the throttle cable bracket
 
I would say it’s more important to tighten in the correct pattern than it is to use a torque wrench. If you’ve torqued the outer bolts, you’ve done it backwards. Should be tightened from the center out.
 
Just use your head and tighten the bolts.

I have NEVER torqued an intake manifold in my life.
This^^^^^^^^^^

Another torque thread. To the OP, use your head and a normal combination wrench. You won't be able to pull hard enough on it to cause a issue unless you are an animal.
 
I have seen several stripped out threads on heads . Those threads get weak over time.
OP might have the forearms of Popeye ….
 
I have seen several stripped out threads on heads . Those threads get weak over time.
OP might have the forearms of Popeye ….
I like to run a rethreader down the threads and blow them out good to make sure things are clean and right. If the stock bolt is rusty and corroded it get's a different one. A little common sense goes a long way.
 
I used a 9/16-1/2 box end combo wrench and a 1/2 drive torque wench. It was a 10" wrench so when I put the 9/16 on the 2 inside bolts and then put the torque wrench inside the 1/2 end, I just made a crows foot adapter but you have to factor in the length to adjust for the lower torque spec needed to get 35 ft/lbs because now your measuring almost 2 foot/lbs....you would decrease the wrench to about 20 ft/lbs. Make sure you get this 'crows foot' as straight as you can to the wrench axis for an accurate measurement. If you have a digital torque wrench or a beam type, you can see what this 10" extension does to a 35 ft/lb bolt that is accessible to see what the actual reading is.
 
I use one of these.

If you keep the adapter at 90 degrees to the torque wrench you don’t have to adjust the torque value to compensate for the adapter length.

465CCF7E-7E3A-4EFD-A75F-EBE1E37A653A.jpeg
 
Just tighten them up. They'll be fine.
I have never torqued intake manifold bolts.
I am not an engine builder but I have assembled several. I do tighten the bolts in the proper sequence but as far as attaching a torque wrench??

1 no, just no.jpg
 
I have never torqued intake manifold bolts.
I am not an engine builder but I have assembled several. I do tighten the bolts in the proper sequence but as far as attaching a torque wrench??

View attachment 1716023880
You beat me to it. I am 72, and I have probably installed at least 50 intake manifolds. I have never torqued one. Using a normal length 3/8" ratchet, I pull on it and when it feels about right I'm done. I DO use a correct pattern. I bet I am within a few pound of the recommended torque. I have NEVER had a problem.
BTW, when I build an engine, and do other critical things, I do use a torque wrench.
 
As others have said, with alum just tighten to 25 ft lbs. Use the same bolt size somewhere else where you can use a tq wrench to get a feel for what 25 ft/lbs feels like.

Do not forget to recheck bolts, cold, after the engine cools down. Gaskets normally 'settle' & bolts need to be checked. May take 2 or 3 cycles.
 
Yeah, of course.
Main and rod bearings get torqued. Head bolts too. Cam sprocket, Flywheel bolts, Clutch cover/Pressure plate, many times the wheel lug nuts as well.
 
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