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If anyone is interested, I have this trans cooler. Brand new, never installed. PM me with questions
Don't get me wrong here, i Like this system and would like to us it .......someday. back to the decision. I thing that even if you could run the pump, through the cooler and backward through the converter. There would have to be a few more add-on's like............after drilling a hole in the oil pan for the feed...........You would need a filter. This is dirty oil aka Unfiltered Oil. You would not want this oil being pushed back thru the system and sticking a valve in the valve body. If you get all the oil in the pan cooled while the eng is at rest/off. the only heat is in the converter. first fire up and it through the cooler and into the pan. Major transmission temp drop. I like it!! I like it a lot. Price tag don't thrill me much. butt still like it.
I have been thinking about your disagreement that the trans is reverse cooled from the pump. I stumbled on to another company that makes an external system and they have this schematic that at least on a power glide, clearly shows that the system is reverse cooled. Comparing the jones schematic with the other, I think the confusion Is whether the lines labeled in/out are viewed from the direction of flow versus whether the engine is running or the external pump is running. While I agree with you about not being able to push oil past the oil pump, the stator does appear, at least on my 904 non lockup to dump excess oil flow from the converter into the pan. If I am correct, reverse flow would work, and the in line versus out line on the Jones schematic is to be viewed from the direction of flow from the external pump running, not the engine.
In the instruction it said something about installing a warning light on the dash or .......something??? If it can be dump back into the pan threw the torque converter it's self........Then that may be the reason for the warning light. You would not want a pump on both side pushing threw the TQ from opposite direction, at the same time. I made my flow path with the fact that it could NOT go backwards.......... Does any body have a flow path for the 904/727.......you know the one that shows the path of flow threw each gear? ...... the converter gets no flow when it is in "P"..........and there is a check valve in the converter???? that keep the fluid from draining out of the converter...........Or is that when front seal starts to leak????????? Just thinking if there is a check valve that keep the oil from draining out of..................Hmm just typing out loud here. sence i moved i can't find anything......going to see if i can find my Chassis book. Think that were i have seen the oil flow chart.
Well that didn't help much.
Actually that helped a lot. After studying that cooler pressure regulator that I've never paid attention to before I think I have figured the best reasonably low cost way to do this and have the cooled oil go into the converter directly through a drilled and tapped fitting on the cooler in circuit on the valve body. See this link. Tilton Viton seal oil cooler pump at Summit or Jegs for $200. Study this link and see pic of a valve body. The 4th hole from the end is the cooler in/ converter charge. Drill and tap and install a check valve. Both systems will still work. Fti has a good YouTube video called fti pump around system. FTI Pump Around System Instructions
Made brackets for this Derale plate/fin cooler for my sons 69 barracuda.
Looks factory! Well done!
I implemented this on my 904 this week. Lots of planning but I think it works.
A little bit more details please is this being feed thru a fan cooler and/or is there a aux pump.
904 Torqueflite hydraulic surgery
I like the fact the your picking up the fluid from the filter instead of just the lower side of the pan. You need to let us all know how it turns out and if you like it...................
Will do, but that will be a while yet. I posted it here for you because I knew we had talked about this months ago. It's all reversible if it does not work out. Just need some pipe plugs. But I think it will work fine. There are 3 versions of this Tilton pump Two plastic versions and a metal version. I got the plastic Viton seal version because it had better seals and is a few pounds lighter than the metal version. Although the metal version seems more durable, It uses inferior buna rubber seals that are not high temp rated like Viton is.
very interesting , following -------
The only question mark.........and is only because it hasn't been tested..........is the check valve........ But then again, even if the check valve failed. there wouldn't be enough leakage through the pump to cause any kind a pressure drop to the converter. The thing i like best about your design is that you don't need extra lines and two cooler. one fan driven oil cooler is all you need.
I think you need to put another hole in you transmission oil pan...... If you added a temp probe in the pan you could run the fan by temperature. If you are racing down the track, heading down the return road or setting in the pits. If you tied it to a battery feed(fused of course) then the fan would just run when it need to and you wouldn't have to do or thing about thing during the race. Then just add a two way toggle switch so that one way you can turn it on manually and the other way to can disconnect connection.........just so you can have complete control of system. This is what i do with my water pump and radiator cooling fans and fuel pump. My water pump turns on at 160 degrees and my radiator fan turn on at 180 and off at 160. but i can turn then on manually if i want as well. EDIT that's a 3 way switch on/off/on"temp controlled"
Used 3/8 tube, and added a trans cooler thermostat. Not running the 42RH into the stock radiator since those fittings are 5/16" and the O/D unit requires lots of fluid. Used some nice pre bent 3/8" hard lines I got from a 1999 B350 church bus in the junky. Direct bolt in, right down to the line mounting clips. Flared and added -6 AN female fittings to the front of the hard lines, and flex lines. Cooler thermostat bracket is homemade. Everything in mockup stage in pix. Finished up the welding work, sand blasted and primed engine compartment yesterday
I was very careful with the check valve selection. McMaster car has all kinds of check valves. My criteria was no plastic, must be all stainless, must have very high Temperature rating, must be a ball bearing on a steel seat. At first I was concerned with inadequate flow volume. But putting compressed air to it I was surprised at the volume coming out of the pump /converter fill area.
That looks great! What did you use on those front trans cooler lines? Aluminum? What temp do you set the thermostat to?
Its steel 3/8" fuel line. Used a 37° single flare. I didnt read that far in the instructions, however I think its pre set to 180° so it just loops back until it hits set temp, then goes through the cooler. The extra cost mounting bracket from Derale looked cheezy so I made my own that's much beefier. Used countersink screws where it tucks under the framerail lip. I mocked it up with 90° AN fittings near the K frame, ended up needing 120° AN fittings to get the lines away from the strut rod end. Works out good that way.
300hp mild 318 , 42RH and 3.73s. Will be street driven fun car, not all out racer, this setup should be more than adequate. I figured I'd post in case as anybody wants to duplicate all or even part of what I did. The hard work is done, I even left space between the radiator and cooler for a future A/C condenser install. I had a lot of head scratching to try to make this as factory looking as possible. Thanks 4 the kudos