Transmission Temp... What range do I want to be in? -High Stall Converter

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MobileCustoms

MobileCustoms

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Just rebuilding my 727 and adding a temp gauge while I'm at it. Wondering a few things:

1. Where to locate the temp sender.
2. What should I expect/want to see for temp readings
3. How much is too high?

Mechanicals on this car are pretty much as I bought it a year and a half ago. Now rebuilding the tranny.
I have a 340 with a 508/292 cam, 10.5:1, J heads with 2.02 valves. M1 intake, 750 dp, Dougs Headers

Tranny is a 727 manual reverse valve body and has a 4000-4400 stall (according to previous owner) 9 inch converter.

I would like to keep this combo, as it performs very well. They were mainly drag racing it with 4.56 gears. I mainly street drive it and have switched it to 3:73 gears.

I bought lots of good parts for the tranny (red clutches & bands, billet servos, accumulator, bolt-in sprag, etc.) and also am adding a deep aluminium pan that adds 4 more quarts capacity and I also have a good sized tranny cooler up front.

So back to my questions... From reading/searching, I see some people mount the temp sender in a block coming out of the cooler line output to see highest temp coming from converter and some mount them in the pan.

In either scenario, I am wondering what kind of temp range I want to be staying within to keep from overheating and tearing things up prematurely. I realize the temps will be quite a bit different depending on where the sender is mounted.

I plan to stay with this high stall converter for now at least but want to closely monitor the temp so if it appears to be getting too hot with that converter I can change that to a lower stall one before I put too many miles on it.

Hope my questions make sense, I usually like to drive the car pretty hard and have fun more than just cruising around on a Sunday and I do plan to take it to the track this Summer to see what it will do.
Previous owner claims it was running 11.90s with good slicks and the 4.56 gears when he parked it 8 years ago (no time slips). I'm a little skeptical of that number but still very curious to see how she'll do. - '67 Notch.
I currently have a set of 295/15s on the back but would like to get a set of rims & slicks for the back for track day(s), whenever that time comes.

Thanks for any insight!

-Doug
 
You can get an adapter from Earls and the rest of AN fitting manufactures, put it in line on the on the line out of the trans cooler to the trans(return line)
Safe operating temp 175 to 220 after that it starts to damage the fluid
 
180 IMO is as high as you want to see. The temp sender can go in the side of the pan.
 
I have the same setup, 9.5" 4,400 flash, same engine. I have the deep B&M 4q extra capacity pan and a 18" x 10" aluminum cooler in front of the radiator. I don't run the lines through the radiator. Anyway after a long Saturday cruise the cooler is barely even warm. I don't run a gauge and I run one quart less.
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
I have the same setup, 9.5" 4,400 flash, same engine. I have the deep B&M 4q extra capacity pan and a 18" x 10" aluminum cooler in front of the radiator. I don't run the lines through the radiator. Anyway after a long Saturday cruise the cooler is barely even warm. I don't run a gauge and I run one quart less.
Click to expand...

That makes me feel good.
Thanks!
 
This chart tells you everything you need to know. If you use synthetic trans oil it will tolerate higher temps and last even longer.

treblig
 

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I prefer the sender in the pan also. The fluid is hottest coming out of the trans going to the cooler but that doesn't tell ya squat about how efficient the cooler is. I'm no expert but it seems to me the temp of the oil in the pan that's being pumped to the trans. is what you should be concerned with. I also prefer to see it no higher than 180.
 
I would also like to add a trans temp gauge to my 727. It has a deep pan with a drain plug. Is there somebody who makes a drain plug with a 1/8" NPT hole in the plug so you can mount the sensor in it?
 
RockinRobin said:
I would also like to add a trans temp gauge to my 727. It has a deep pan with a drain plug. Is there somebody who makes a drain plug with a 1/8" NPT hole in the plug so you can mount the sensor in it?
Click to expand...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13010?seid=srese1&gclid=COaAsLfx-sMCFYU-aQodmasAFg
That one might not be deep enough though, to go all the way through the thicker walls of the aluminium pan.

Here's a weld-in bung made of aluminium:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220070

-Probably the better way to go about it.
 
I used the pan sender from summit and it worked out great!! I was really surprised how long it takes for the tranny fluid to come up to a good running temperature. I also installed a good sized trans cooler and my fluid stays 180 or below.

Treblig
 

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MobileCustoms said:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13010?seid=srese1&gclid=COaAsLfx-sMCFYU-aQodmasAFg
That one might not be deep enough though, to go all the way through the thicker walls of the aluminium pan.

Here's a weld-in bung made of aluminium:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220070

-Probably the better way to go about it.
Click to expand...
While the weld in bung would be better, I like the quick simpleness of taking out the drain plug and replacing it with a hollowed out one that will accept the sender. I'll have to check and see if the plug in the pan is a 1/2"-20. That seems to be a pretty universal size, so it probably is. The other easy option would be at the return line up by the cooler that's mounted on the radiator, but I would need a T that was -6AN male/female with a female 1/8" NPT and I can't seem to find that.
 
Try some hyguard for trans fluid. Will allow 250 degrees and tighten the converter a few hundred rpms. Which you will need with the lower numeric rear gear as it will add load to the converter and make it stall even higher.
 
turbofreek said:
Try some hyguard for trans fluid. Will allow 250 degrees and tighten the converter a few hundred rpms. Which you will need with the lower numeric rear gear as it will add load to the converter and make it stall even higher.
Click to expand...

I've been reading up on that stuff. Interesting opinions, for sure. I like the price of that fluid vs Type F. But I sure don't want to risk any premature damage or wear to my fresh rebuild either...

I appreciate all the input!
 
MobileCustoms said:
I've been reading up on that stuff. Interesting opinions, for sure. I like the price of that fluid vs Type F. But I sure don't want to risk any premature damage or wear to my fresh rebuild either...

I appreciate all the input!
Click to expand...

I ran hyguard in a ford c4 trans with big stall and a turbo v8. My trans cooler was a grad cooler that is a frame rail mount style from moroso. Never cooked the trans street driving it. But putting massive load against it foot braking for way to damn long did. It wasnt the fluids fault but a idiot drivers fault. Fluid still wasnt cooked like type f would be. I swear by hyguard since then.
 
turbofreek said:
I ran hyguard in a ford c4 trans with big stall and a turbo v8. My trans cooler was a grad cooler that is a frame rail mount style from moroso. Never cooked the trans street driving it. But putting massive load against it foot braking for way to damn long did. It wasnt the fluids fault but a idiot drivers fault. Fluid still wasnt cooked like type f would be. I swear by hyguard since then.
Click to expand...

Have you bought Hygard lately? If so how much does it sell for? Is it clear like engine oil?
 
It is clear and i used a quart of atf so i could see color on the stick. But i have not bought any in a few years. It isnt that bad expence wise.
 
RockinRobin said:
Has anyone used #303 hydraulic fluid in their tranny, and how would you compare it to Hy Guard?
Click to expand...

You can use the cheap version of hyguard. I have before when i couldnt locate it and was desperate. Didnt notice a difference performance or wear wise. Make sure the fluids are the same as it is a hydralic fluid more than anything.
 
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