Trick flow noob ?s

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Revoke36

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I’m sure this has been covered a million times but I need clarification as I’m learning as I’m going

68 barracuda 340, 727

I’m getting close to pulling the trigger on aluminum heads. I’m reading a lot of conflicting info in regards of trick flow heads are ready to go out of the box and bolt on vs a machine shop is required to adjust/tune assembly. So what’s the real scoop? Does that mean all I have to do is swap in rockers? Step by step details are appreciated. Thanks! Trying to save myself $$ and do it myself. I can figure most things out, granted I have all the info needed.
 
Trick Flow claims you can use your stock rockers, but you’ll have to replace your push rods.

I had to jump on a pair of Trick Flows, I heard the prices were going up. The price went up $200 per head a week later.
 
Trick Flow claims you can use your stock rockers, but you’ll have to replace your push rods.

I had to jump on a pair of Trick Flows, I heard the prices were going up. The price went up $200 per head a week later.
So You'll need a checking pushrod, as the new ones will be taller, I'm Assuming?
 
Regarding being ready out of the box, I haven't heard/seen any reports of significant issues with the TF heads that would have caused a performance or reliability issue. I will also tell you that they were assembled by human hands and that person could have been having an off day while doing yours. It's about $75 to have a shop inspect them if you aren't capable or equipped, which is not bad insurance. A lot of guys with more experience than me say they will never run any assembled head OTB without having trusted shop look at them, and there is probably a good reason for that. Like Clint Eastwood once said, "do you feel lucky?"
 
I’m sure this has been covered a million times but I need clarification as I’m learning as I’m going

68 barracuda 340, 727

I’m getting close to pulling the trigger on aluminum heads. I’m reading a lot of conflicting info in regards of trick flow heads are ready to go out of the box and bolt on vs a machine shop is required to adjust/tune assembly. So what’s the real scoop? Does that mean all I have to do is swap in rockers? Step by step details are appreciated. Thanks! Trying to save myself $$ and do it myself. I can figure most things out, granted I have all the info needed.



if you buy a set let me know. I have a 10% off coupon from Summit. They will probably be on backorder but they have been filling them rather quickly. Don’t forget to get studs or head bolts.
 
Unless you know exactly what you're looking for/at, I would have a competent machine shop give them an inspection. It's cheap insurance. It takes about 30min per head. Mine were excellent straight out of the box. Results can vary. Humans make these, so....

TF provides detailed instructions with the heads. I purchased the matching HS rockers and they really did fit well. Clearances were perfect. Obviously, you'll have to measure for pushrods. Make sure you purchase the correct pushrods for your your motor family!

Also, make sure you match whatever cam-style you're using to the correct the head PN#. There are differences in the retainer types for HR, FT, etc...
 
Thanks for the response guys! Particularly on the tip that it’s cheap insurance to have a machine shop inspect them for under $100.
 
I had mine checked over by my local machine shop and the spring pressure was not as advertised. Trick Flow sent new springs free of charge to fix the issue
 
I recently asked my machinist the same question regarding trick flows out of box. He has had his hands on tons of them (all makes, not just mopar) and said they have always been spot on.
 
I had mine gone through. Guides felt like they may be a little tight. Buttery smooth but just a little tight. It was cheap insurance.
 
Pull out of the boxes, out of the bags, eyeball em, double check cleanliness, mock-up your components and then slap em on......they are ready to run as is. You’re buying ready to go high quality heads, not sloppy Speedmasters.
 
Pull out of the boxes, out of the bags, eyeball em, double check cleanliness, mock-up your components and then slap em on......they are ready to run as is. You’re buying ready to go high quality heads, not sloppy Speedmasters.


Now you went and did it. Lol
 
Stock rocker arms would not work on my small block trickflows, trick flow moved the rocker stands away from the intake and I mocked up several rocker arms just to see what they looked like. I ended up with the mancini/made by harland sharp rockers and they had great geometry with some custom length smith brothers pushrods. If you truly want one stop shopping for valvetrain Mike at b3 is the guy as mentioned above.
 
Stock rocker arms would not work on my small block trickflows, trick flow moved the rocker stands away from the intake and I mocked up several rocker arms just to see what they looked like. I ended up with the mancini/made by harland sharp rockers and they had great geometry with some custom length smith brothers pushrods. If you truly want one stop shopping for valvetrain Mike at b3 is the guy as mentioned above.
This is what mine looked like with 273 rockers and no shims.
I got a b3 kit from mike which moved them out towards the valves.

Oh and I did just pull them out of the boxes and bolt them on...
Been about 3 years now and I drive it everyday.
Screenshot_20220828-200746_Photos.jpg
 
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This is what mine looked like with 273 rockers and no shims.
I got a b3 kit from mike which moved them out towards the valves.

Oh and I did just pull them out of the boxes and bolt them on...
Been about 3 years now and I drive it everyday.
View attachment 1715977883
Yes, not even functional without a correction kit, of course the kit makes good rockers even better.
 
This is what mine looked like with 273 rockers and no shims.
I got a b3 kit from mike which moved them out towards the valves.

That's horrible. I mocked up mine (440) with mancini rollers and they lined up great. Gotta play with the left/right alignment but the rollers sat nice on the stem. The mancini rockers are supposed to be made by harland. Only difference is no bearing on the rocker shaft bore.
 
The prw rockers didn't require much of a shim from b3 to line up nice.
But I've had problems with them.
So I put the 273 rockers back on for now.
I will probably start another thread about that at another time.
20190525_170519.jpg
 
The prw rockers didn't require much of a shim from b3 to line up nice.
But I've had problems with them.
So I put the 273 rockers back on for now.
I will probably start another thread about that at another time.View attachment 1715978563

Those are the PRW stainless ones?

I went with Comp's 10 years ago. They are pricey.

Wondered if anything else out there in steel with rollers that were reliable.
 
Those are the PRW stainless ones?

I went with Comp's 10 years ago. They are pricey.

Wondered if anything else out there in steel with rollers that were reliable.
Yes they are Stainless & Bushed.
 
I bought a pair of heads from Mike at B3 Racing
He fitted the correct springs to suit my cam and shipped to the Uk for me
Can't recommend Mike enough, great to do business with him
 
The prw rockers didn't require much of a shim from b3 to line up nice.
But I've had problems with them.
So I put the 273 rockers back on for now.
I will probably start another thread about that at another time.View attachment 1715978563
Can you expand upon what the issues were with the PRW? I've got a new set and would be good to know if I can head off a potential problem.
 
Can you expand upon what the issues were with the PRW? I've got a new set and would be good to know if I can head off a potential problem.
Ok Well if it helps you avoid a problem then
I'll share my experience so far,
Mine keep wearing out the bushings
20201101_132653.jpg
20201101_132653.jpg
20201101_132508.jpg

This was the first set.
Mike at b3 was so nice to warranty them for me since it had been over a year.
But he thought it was an oiling issue,
So he and prw both recommend adding pushrod oiling.
So I changed out the lifters to amc style
Which did seem to help ,the valve train was noticeably quieter.
That was less then a year ago.
Recently I was hearing more and more valve train noise.
So I took the rockers off and found number 8 exhaust rocker almost worn completely through the bushing!
There was one on the driver's side worn some too but not as bad.
The rest were better then the last time so adding oil did seem to help with that some.
And I was only using penn grade 10w 40
But after closer examination I found some of the roller tips wearing flat spots now.
Also almost all the roller bearings in the tips feel rough.
I'll take more pictures later to show the current set.
The pictures I posted here are from the first set.

20201101_132613.jpg
 
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