TTI Headers I picked up cheap....

[Jlcaptain24]

Anybody ID these? Guy I got them from said they are TTI's came off an A-body with a 440. They've been chopped on and welded a bit. I like the idea of long tube TTI's but i'm NOT willing to give up power steering. For 75 bucks I figured worth a guess that maybe somebody chopped on them to get them to fit WITH power steering. Any thoughts??

 

[AJ/FormS]

Are those really A-body pipes? With a factory firewall, I can't imagine it

 

[Jlcaptain24]

Are those really A-body pipes? With a factory firewall, I can't imagine it

Beats me. Ol guy said they were.....I compared them to TTI's long tubes online. They're notably different, but the set I got is pretty hacked up....

 

[qkcuda]

The long collectors look like the original CPPA headers.

 

[Jlcaptain24]

The long collectors look like the original CPPA headers.

That's interesting. Sounds like they won't fit with PS as they were built (if they're CPPA's). I'm wondering why they were modified though. I have Schumacher motor mounts coming soon. Once I get them, I'll see how it all fits tougher and what the deal is. End of the day, it was only 75$ and I knew it was a total crap shoot. The irony was I was going to order Schumacher Tri-Y's this week...then I stumble across these. We'll see. They may be in the Classified section soon. LOL

 

[Jlcaptain24]

They fit. Did the Schumacher motor mount thing this morning.....notched K frame on the driver side. Once I go that sorted, I mounted the drivers head to the block while it's on the hoist and slowly lowered the whole contraption down. It fits. Clearly whoever had these chopped on em to get them to go around the PS box. If I use em I'll clearance my box a smidgen more in a couple spots just to make sure they don't hit under toque. Little ding, little grinding on the box.

So the new question is: Should I use em? I was going to use Schumacher Tri-Y's. I love the idea of long tubes, but wonder if so many mods/dents have been done to these if the Tri Y's would flow better.

 

[qkcuda]

If they fit, clean them up and run them. You'd be giving up money and horsepower going to the tri-Y's.

 

[mad accountant]

How's the spark plug and starter access with those? Schumakers are spendy, but it takes about 5 minutes to swap out the starter, and plug access isn't too bad. I only mention it because it would be a real drag to have to either pull the header, head/header or entire engine just to install a new starter.

 

[tnts72]

In will be surprised if they don't leak at some of those welded joints

 

[Jlcaptain24]

How's the spark plug and starter access with those? Schumakers are spendy, but it takes about 5 minutes to swap out the starter, and plug access isn't too bad. I only mention it because it would be a real drag to have to either pull the header, head/header or entire engine just to install a new starter.

Plug access is sufficient. I would definitely put some kinda of insulating boot over it though...other wise I'm certain the wires would be toast.

Starter Access: I dunno. Take a look. I don't have a starter/or mini starter, so hard to gauge. I would think I'd be able to get in there by loosening the headers.

 

[Jlcaptain24]

In will be surprise if they don't leak at some of those welded joints

Ugh....I know. Wonder if I could have a professional welder go over them. Surely I'd still be WAY ahead financially as opposed to buying Tri-Y's

 

[Jlcaptain24]

If they fit, clean them up and run them. You'd be giving up money and horsepower going to the tri-Y's.

Pretty much what I"m leaning towards....I think I could deal with all the BS maintenance wise long tubes entail....but if those welds leak, I'd be super disappointed.

 

[tnts72]

Ugh....I know. Wonder if I could have a professional welder go over them. Surely I'd still be WAY ahead financially as opposed to buying Tri-Y's

If you find a good tig welder have them blasted and have him go over the tubes and burn the welds down in areas of concern. Will be a sh*t job for the welder, but may be worth saving a set of tti's. One trick is to shut the lights off and put a bright light in the collector cover the flange and if you see any light you know you will have some leaks

 

[Jlcaptain24]

If you find a good tig welder have them blasted and have him go over the tubes and burn the welds down in areas of concern. Will be a sh*t job for the welder, but may be worth saving a set of tti's. One trick is to shut the lights off and put a bright light in the collector cover the flange and if you see any light you know you will have some leaks

Guy down the road is a professional welder and a car guy. He chopped the bed of his truck recently, so he's fairly talented. I think I'll bring him down to him and see what he says. They're quite a few welds. All look pretty good to me, though.

Good tip on the light. I'll give that a shot. Right now, both sides are in the car mocked up on the engine. I'm not wrestling them out again tonight. LOL

 

[Scottlodge]

Plug access is sufficient. I would definitely put some kinda of insulating boot over it though...other wise I'm certain the wires would be toast.

Starter Access: I dunno. Take a look. I don't have a starter/or mini starter, so hard to gauge. I would think I'd be able to get in there by loosening the headers.

I just installed Tti headers on my 74 dart sport. Starter must be installed first. I used a starter from a 99 dodge dakota 3.9l motor. Hopefully I'll never have to change the starter

 

[Jlcaptain24]

I just installed Tti headers on my 74 dart sport. Starter must be installed first. I used a starter from a 99 dodge dakota 3.9l motor. Hopefully I'll never have to change the starter

I was figuring I'd have the so the same. I actually send these old things out to get ceramic coated for heat reasons primarily. I think I'll wrap my starter in a blanket as well. Basically doing EVERYTHING I can to Keep them from cooking everything around them.

 

[diymirage]

if I was dealing with these...I would get a piece of flat stock , 1/8 or 3/16 and make a plate to cover the exhaust ports (be sure to put a gasket on before bolting it up)
then I would make a plate to cover up the collector, and install an airhose quick connect

start putting air to it and see what it holds
that will tell you if, and how many welds need attention

 

[Jlcaptain24]

if I was dealing with these...I would get a piece of flat stock , 1/8 or 3/16 and make a plate to cover the exhaust ports (be sure to put a gasket on before bolting it up)
then I would make a plate to cover up the collector, and install an airhose quick connect

start putting air to it and see what it holds
that will tell you if, and how many welds need attention

That sounds like probably the most thorough solution....but fortune favors the bold. I did the most thorough visual inspection I could....and sent them off to be ceramic coated. Told him if anything looks remotely suspect after sandblasting them, to give me a call before coating. All told, I'll have 325 in these frankenstein long tube ceramic headers (that fit power steering). Worth the gamble.

 

[Jlcaptain24]

Not bad for 325. Ceramic coated long tube headers that clear power steering.

 

[Lelo Dart]

Not bad at all :burnout:

 

[Treblig]

Not bad at all :burnout:

I agree!!

treblig

 

[Jlcaptain24]

Thanks! Waiting on my transmission to get back...and it's all going in.