I would do everything I could to keep from denting those headers, including putting the right steering linkage on it. That's just how "I" would do it. I do agree though that the dents won't affect the performance.
Thoughts/do I need to dent my new headers, new pics ?
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Scody21
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1972 pitman and idler pics and then 1974 idler and pitman pics. Item codes are only one number off. But notice the shapes are different. And then side is different depending on manual or power steering.
Scody21
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Right. It’s tight and have to use the right year group parts together.
4mulas
Fixem'up
Looks awfully close to the oil pan too. Is your transmission mount fresh?
moparhunter
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Yes, the transmission crossover mount is brand new
abodyjoe
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engine masters proved that too.
LOL! So what parts was that done with now? If the tapers haven't been reamed out of the center link it's not possible if you're using year matched parts because the pitman and idler would have to be upside down too in order to flip the tapers. Even if you mismatch the centerlink with the year range of the pitman and idler and mounted the center link upside down on a '67-76 A-body it would put the "hump" in the center link on top, and it would hit the pan to the point the engine wouldn't even sit all the way down on the engine mounts, forget the headers. And if you're talking about a different car it's not really relevant is it?
Regardless, it's obvious from the OP's pictures that he has a 73+ center link, pitman and idler that are all pointing the right direction.
Yeah those are just plain old '73+ steering parts, and they are correctly installed as far as I can see. The only thing might be the spacer arrangement on the idler arm, because I can't see it and from the pictures it's hard to tell if the centerlink is parallel to the ground.
Confirm that your K member/engine mount measurements meet TTI's specifications, they have specs for the vertical location of the engine relative to the K frame.
Manual vs power steering changes nothing for 67-72 between the pitman arms, and only the size of the sector shaft for 73+ power steering vs manual. 67-72 manual and power steering are small sector, 73+ manual is small sector and power is large sector. The shape of the pitman and especially the idlers changes by manufacturer, some idlers are shaped completely different and can create clearance issues with certain oil pans.
The single digit different in part numbers is irrelevant. For 67-72 the pitman and idler have the tapers pointing up, with the castle nuts on top of the center link, and a 90° twist in the center link for the tie rod ends. '73-76 the tapers all point down, with the castle nut on the bottom side of the center link.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Like I always say, the biggest difference between cheap vs expensive hedders is it hurts more to dent expensive ones.
It was on a Chevelle. The nuts only had hold of maybe four threads, tops, of course no cotter pins.....which is why I was brought the car. He wanted to know why he couldn't get the cotter pins in. lol
I probably shouldn't mention the avatar's Hooker Super Comps are so close in that spot that I have to install the grease zerk when I grease the idler arm. (Yep, it normally runs without the zerk!)
harrisonm
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You're a Newfee? Do you Know Fitzee from the Fitzee's Fabrication videos on YouTube? I religiously watch his videos.
Come on Rob. Don't be modest. I have read thousands of your posts and you are very knowledgeable on a LOT of subjects. I have been impressed with what you know for years.
My post is #22, and I didn't see anyplace in posts 1-21 where he mentioned that
It be nice if he clarified what he has.
harrisonm
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Agree, but I think the main point is that for $1700 Canadian, they should fit.
moparhunter
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Is a 400 big block in a 69 Dart
Exactly my point, too.
I appreciate the sentiment, but I have always tried to err on the modest side. I get bent sometimes when people ask for help I give it and they all out ignore it when I give good recommendations.....whether it ends up being the problem or not. How will you know unless you START somewhere? I worked on cars for a living for a long time. I have a LOT of experience using diagnostic trees. They can be long and drawn out, but in the end, you WILL find the issue. It's simply a methodical approach and most people want it all and want it now. That's not how diagnosis works.
Money doesn't guarantee perfect fit for the big block swap, even Shumacher shorties have some problems on different applications.
Have you actually done the big block swap
I've done two. Years before TTI. We used B body HP manifolds.
Money wasn't the problem here, though. The wrong steering linkage is. If he gets the correct linkage, those headers will fit like a glove.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Yup!
Most anyone into Restorations and the hobby in general in Atlantic Canada knows of Fitzee.
The guy is a metal fabricating genius.
What he creates using basic tools and scrap metal is epic..
4mulas
Fixem'up
What header part number did you buy? I Can’t remember right now but don’t they specify different ones for B vs RB when it comes to big block to compensate for the difference in height. I thought RB ones are longer or taller if you will, so if installed ona B motor they will be lower and closer to the linkage?
moparhunter
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I don’t have the part number in front of me, but they were bought for a 3 to 383 400 low block right from Tti
harrisonm
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Nice. The 400 seems to be an overlooked engine, but I guess a lot of people have built them up to a lot of horsepower.
harrisonm
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I only use his cut and butt method now. When people watch me do a patch with that method and wind up with an almost flawless patch, they are impressed, and I own it all to Tony.
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