Turn a small drill press into a Bore/ Hone. Bolt it to the top of your engine block & do your own machining .

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Jessearent said:
Let me know the results on the run out....and explain what that means for the operator.
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Run out would mean how true the shaft is turning, in this case the shaft of the drill motor.
If the runout of the drill shaft is too excessive for cylinder boring, the cylinder would never be round. Also side load of the shaft is a big factor, as the shaft comes out to drill a deeper hole or in your case a bore, how much side play will be encountered, will there be chatter from the bit against the cylinder wall
Look at a milling machine, notice how large the shaft is that the tooling attaches to, now look at a boring bar
Look up a Van Norm boring machine, notice how large that shaft is
Its the same principle as cutting a inside hole in a round piece of stock using a lathe
I did a dozen easy couplings for motor and pumps, the coupling comes in a set, if memory serves me right, there was a small hole in the coupling, we would drill first and than bore the coupling to size for the shaft, it was always a shrink fit so it had to be spot on or either it would be to loose or once installed you could never remove it unless you split it with a burning outfit and yes I split a few
So again, using this press you have to get it exactly centred in the bore, remember the invisible centre line we discussed
And the machine absolutely cant move at all
I think if a bonafide machinist explained this all to you, better than I could you would understand that how noble a idea you have and I give you credit for trying, using a drill press to bore a cylinder is just not the way to go
Seek out a expert, ask for opinions and take that advice, you will save money and aggravation in the end

Years ago on another forum there was a very very talented guy, he flew private jets for clients, this guy had a shop to die for and everything he did seemed to be perfect, he also as I found out had a huge ego and nobody was telling him ****
He posted a picture of a weld he did with his 110 MIG welder and was proud of how good it looked, he claimed that he could weld a 1 inch pad eye on to something I forget and it would be perfectly sound and safe
When I pointed out to him that his weld was "cold", what some call cold lap and poor penetration, plus the fact that no 110 volt Mig welder could make a sound weld on steel that thick, well the **** hit the fan
The guy carried on like a lunatic towards me. No matter how I tried to explain myself he wouldn't hear it. Finally I simply told him, I would (have many times) weld a properly fabricated 1 inch pad eye on a suitable beam with stiffeners if required. I told him my co workers lives depend on what I welded. Failure could mean death
I asked him to be honest and would he be confident his weld would be the same.
That was the end of the conversation and he never replied
My point is at some time its wise to listen to advise given by people, not sarcastic put you down posts, but people who know and thats why before you screw up that block id find someone who knows and talk to them. If you dont want to thats up to you and who knows maybe you will be successful. Either way best of luck and enjoy the weekend
Enjoy the weekend
 
I work for a large steel fabricator. Until we acquired cnc machines, all of our holes were drilled with mag drills. Now I have 10 or so laying around collecting dust. For ***** and grins I pulled one out and measured run out on the arbor and how much free movement there was in the gibs when adjusted properly (tight enough so the head doesn’t drop by itself is the adjustment procedure). I also stuck a machinists square to the magnet and checked the surface for flatness. These are fairly expensive high quality Nitto Kohki mag drills. There was .006 runout in the arbor, .011 free movement in the gibs in the full extended position and .008 collapsed. The magnet was the definition of “not flat” there were many places I could get a .010 feeler gauge in. The fact that you are going to rely on a low quality mag drill for a procedure as accurate as honing/boring an engine block is laughable at best. Please don’t. You are not going to reinvent the wheel and find a way to accurately machine a block without machine shop level, and quality of tooling. The best case scenario is you screw up a block and manage to not hurt yourself.
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TT5.9mag said:
I work for a large steel fabricator. Until we acquired cnc machines, all of our holes were drilled with mag drills. Now I have 10 or so laying around collecting dust. For ***** and grins I pulled one out and measured run out on the arbor and how much free movement there was in the gibs when adjusted properly (tight enough so the head doesn’t drop by itself is the adjustment procedure). I also stuck a machinists square to the magnet and checked the surface for flatness. These are fairly expensive high quality Nitto Kohki mag drills. There was .006 runout in the arbor, .011 free movement in the gibs in the full extended position and .008 collapsed. The magnet was the definition of “not flat” there were many places I could get a .010 feeler gauge in. The fact that you are going to rely on a low quality mag drill for a procedure as accurate as honing/boring an engine block is laughable at best. Please don’t. You are not going to reinvent the wheel and find a way to accurately machine a block without machine shop level, and quality of tooling. The best case scenario is you screw up a block and manage to not hurt yourself.
View attachment 1716100118
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Thats a really high quality mag drill.....You'd laugh if you saw mine, it does work for what I need it for though
I just remember these drills being so expensive
 
Moparofficial all good points.
I had to great ideas.
1) There is a local place that does pottery. I was wondering if i could strap a block to the table that spins and hold stationary Precision Cut Wood, cylinder size wrapped with wet or dry sand paper, then spin the block to hone it.
2) I was watching a episode of Gillian Island. The batteries were dead in the radio. So it gave me the idea.

The professor made a bike from bamboo and coconuts. I could get a used exercise bike from Goodwill, attach a hone to it.
Make a jig to hold the block in place.
I am going to call it "Side-Hone" since the block will be on it's side
And have a 100 percent off grid machine shop.
Maybe get some kind of Goverment grant since 100 percent green! And build more quality equipment equivalent to any machine shop
 
Steve welder said:
Thats a really high quality mag drill.....You'd laugh if you saw mine, it does work for what I need it for though
I just remember these drills being so expensive
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'Run Out' ? Did I measure it right? Min. Picture, then higher reading. What's the minimum/ what's considered too sloppy?

IMG_20230608_205511728_MP.jpg


IMG_20230608_205554043.jpg
 
Soo..I need a flexible shaft to the tool, like a tight wound spring, like the hand hones come with? Or something different?
 
Jessearent said:
'Run Out' ? Did I measure it right? Min. Picture, then higher reading. What's the minimum/ what's considered too sloppy?

View attachment 1716100175

View attachment 1716100176
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Your indicator lacks the accuracy needed to check for good enough for a bore.

Piston to wall clearances are typically .0025-.005. An error of .001 would be as little as 20% error, likely much more. Non critical tolerances are typically 10% or less. Precision are 1-5%.

This is a fools errand. It's been tried. The drawbacks, shortcomings and failures are documented, known, and avoidable. There is nothing to be learned or gained by doing a shitty job unless you start a YouTube channel alongside it.
 
What does everyone think of a " rough bore" to .028" over by a machine shop? Let me do something!
 
Jessearent said:
What does everyone think of a " rough bore" to .028" over by a machine shop? Let me do something!
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Do whatever you want. It's your money.
We're just pointing out why the juice ain't worth the squeeze.
On a block, you might get lucky with this rube Goldberg junk, but the chance of getting lucky 8 times in a row is vanishingly miniscule.
 
Oh, and the chance of finding a shop willing to stuff a few grand worth of tooling into some home brew bore job is equally unlikely.
 
Steve welder said:
Thats a really high quality mag drill.....You'd laugh if you saw mine, it does work for what I need it for though
I just remember these drills being so expensive
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Honestly these are very good quality but ours have had LOTS of use. I think I payed in the range of $2000-$3000 depending on size. They all have payed for themselves many times over.
 
OK then, your telling me a successful bore job by my " Home Brewed" machine will become the Standard for use in every Pit Crew in the world...thanks for the help.
 
All you had too say was, start the bore at the bottom of the cylinder useing medium pressure on the stones, cut through glazed surface and begin enlarging that portion then make occasional passes up and down the entire length of the hole til you size the cylinder. A good method of sizing the cylinders is to use the course stones til the new pistons just slip in tight; then change stones and HONE for Proper clearance and finish.
 
Jessearent said:
All you had too say was, start the bore at the bottom of the cylinder useing medium pressure on the stones, cut through glazed surface and begin enlarging that portion then make occasional passes up and down the entire length of the hole til you size the cylinder. A good method of sizing the cylinders is to use the course stones til the new pistons just slip in tight; then change stones and HONE for Proper clearance and finish.
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You're off by one. It's 2023, not 1923.

Actually, back then the shade tree guys would have cast their own proper boring machine in place in their back yard and done a better job of the task with less bloviating and flailing.
 
Jessearent said:
Remember to use 8 parts kerosene and 1 part oil mix.
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Is that shots, on the rocks or frozen drink from a blender?
As far as the Bamboo just remember you have to keep it well coated with coconut milk. If not it will become dry and brittle. You do not want failed equipment
After reading your chop a piston thread.
I had great idea for a tool that makes the need to bore and hone and new pistons a thing of the past.

I am working on your blanace problems. Will update you on progress. Not sure if should reveal my 2 new machines for the good of the automobile world. Or get a lawyer involved. It could be a revolution in how things are done and be worth a fortune.
So do I share or get lawyers involed to register?
 
340six said:
Is that shots, on the rocks or frozen drink from a blender?
As far as the Bamboo just remember you have to keep it well coated with coconut milk. If not it will become dry and brittle. You do not want failed equipment
After reading your chop a piston thread.
I had great idea for a tool that makes the need to bore and hone and new pistons a thing of the past.

I am working on your blanace problems. Will update you on progress. Not sure if should reveal my 2 new machines for the good of the automobile world. Or get a lawyer involved. It could be a revolution in how things are done and be worth a fortune.
So do I share or get lawyers involed to register?
Click to expand...
You should share your ideas. You may pick up some good input for improvements from this crew of geniuses.
Just like the idea of using coconut milk. I was going to use bear fat for a lubricant.
 
I have 2 balance machines in mind one manual for off grid use. Go Green and one that is electric powered.
Soon to be announced
 
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