Turn a small drill press into a Bore/ Hone. Bolt it to the top of your engine block & do your own machining .

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136lbs seat and 420lbs open is what IMM uses on there Quest SBM heads with LS beehive springs...for what it worth.
 
I have run as high as 185 on the seat and IIRC it was 500 over the nose.

You can do it but you MUST run a 20w50 oil and you need at least 80 psi of oil pressure at WOT.

Anyone who says their lifters can’t use a 20w50 oil needs to learn the truth. If the lifter can’t use 20w50 the lifter is junk.
 
Rat Bastid said:
I have run as high as 185 on the seat and IIRC it was 500 over the nose.

You can do it but you MUST run a 20w50 oil and you need at least 80 psi of oil pressure at WOT.

Anyone who says their lifters can’t use a 20w50 oil needs to learn the truth. If the lifter can’t use 20w50 the lifter is junk.
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You heard the Gospel truth.
 
replicaracer43 said:
For fucks sakes, send me $2500 and I'll ship you my old van norman 777s boring bar setup. Its complete with all the cutting bits, the tools, the various sets of catspaws, and the tray micrometer. It's in a nice roll around cabinet also.
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I have all I need to do just one bad cylinder on the block I have that's already been bored .030" over. Evendently the prior engine builder didn't torque the heads enough and water got in this "remanufactured" long block , one cyl got toasted. So I ask you, do take it to the machine shop and get all done over again OR just fix that one cyl. to .040" over ? by slandering an old 4" piston with valve lapping compound to start with. Then use a magnetic drill with a heavy duty honeing head and adjustable expanding stone set. Then when it reaches the .040" over mark finish it up with the Lisle 15000 honeing tool ?
 
Use a 4" old piston slader it with valve grinding compound to start then use a magnetic drill press on top with a heavy duty honeing head then finish it up with the Lisle 15000 honeing tool at .040" over to fix a bad cyl that got toasted . Skirt going to the machine shop because all the other 7 cyl are in great shape. Unless you just like throwing your money away.
 
Steve welder said:
When you answer these threads you really dont know if the OP is knowledgable on rebuilding engines and understands clearances and machine shop theory.
You also dont know if he is serious or just jerking around but calling him names such as "stupid" without trying to explain and make him understand only shows how "stupid" the person doing the name calling really is
Many decades ago I did the welding on a boiler feed pump conversion job. The pump in question had about a 12 inch discharge which was the ID of the pipe. The wall thickness was a good 2 inches thick
Pipe welded that thick is not a full bevel, its beveled for a distance than straight up to the edge of the OD of the pipe
The bevel has to be perfect as does the face of the pipe (s)
When its fit the root opening has to be exact as its all going to be x-rayed and there is a lot at stake here. The pump pressure has to overcome drum pressure which is 2500 pounds and id guess that feed pump puts out about 3500 and thats at well over 500 degree feed water temps
The piping to the feed pump was cut with a special lathe type of equipment that also beveled the pipe
We were doing this as we were installing a special type of flange on the suction and discharge lines

In the trucking industry when a rear end spindle is bad instead of changing the entire rear there is a company that specialises in repairing these spindles, what they have is special equipment that cuts the old damaged piece, than they bore out the opening which is part of the axel banjo itself and install a new spindle with the threads all machining
Now when the bore that opening its a shrink fit meaning the new spindle is larger diameter. So they heat the rear end at the opening and put the new part in plus they weld it as an extra precaution.
My point is this machining is very accurately done as its dealing with a few thousands of a inch
If the (and I dont know if he does or doesnt) understand the clearness of piston to wall and the proper finish of a cylinder wall that is needed he might think twice
The two examples I used represent accurate machining but id say not accurate enough for an engine cylinder.
Im wondering if he understands engine rebuilding and tolerances involved
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I found a "remanufactured" long block that needs only 1 cyl to go .040" over . All the others are still in great shape. I will slader an old 4" piston with valve lapping compound and start the enlarging process spinning it inside that bad cyl. Then use the heavy duty honeing tool and magnetic drill press I made to go from .030" - .040" over. Finishing it up with the Lisle 15000 honing tool. Skip machine shop and make sure the heads are torqued this time so it does happen again. Eventually water got passed the cheap as gasket that was used and fried that piston and cyl.
 
Kiss....keep it simple Sir. Respect the thrifty you gets things done at hardly no cost and it keeps on revving.
 
Jessearent said:
Kiss....keep it simple Sir. Respect the thrifty you gets things done at hardly no cost and it keeps on revving.
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The time, effort, & $$$ You've pissed away trying to half-*** this isn't going to save You a cent. A lot of Us wouldn't do it, but You could've bought (1) .040" over slug & had the cylinder fixed by a pro, & been done 284 posts ago Dude.....and the cylinder wall won't look like an hour-glass or a snake......or a funnel.....
 
how funny would it be if it wasn't "cheap as gasket" and "didn't torque the heads enough" but actually a hairline crack in the cylinder or something.

i'd laugh my *** off.
 
What's he gonna do, rig a drill press with a 50 pound barbell weight on the handle to keep the feed rate constant?
 
There's a couple words we used to describe this sort of thing before it wasn't proper to say. To be nice it is called "afro enginuity "
 
Some of you wouldn't know the difference between a kangaroo and a rabbit lol

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dirty white boy said:
john deer use to do same back in early 1900s, seen few cat engines get this treatment, work for a few miles but go back to consuming oil in less than a week!!
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Yes they did. I remember hearing that from some of the old guys that worked assembly.
 
Killer6 said:
The time, effort, & $$$ You've pissed away trying to half-*** this isn't going to save You a cent. A lot of Us wouldn't do it, but You could've bought (1) .040" over slug & had the cylinder fixed by a pro, & been done 284 posts ago Dude.....and the cylinder wall won't look like an hour-glass or a snake......or a funnel.....
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Sounds all good, but my machine shop and those near by won't bore/ hone just one cylinder...you should have known.
 
You should have known most machine shops won't bore/hone just one cyl. They are in the business to make/ take your money. They want to door the whole block over again. All 8
 
They do it all the time.
Look at their price sheet sometime- every one I've ever seen charges by the cylinder.
 
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