**Twin Turbo 67 Dart Project**

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72BBSwinger said:
None it has been flawless. Only time you might have a problem is in a tunnel :glasses7:
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Too damn lazy to look :wack: but am wondering what the speedo uses for an antennae/ receiving unit or whatever it is called....
 
inkjunkie said:
Too damn lazy to look :wack: but am wondering what the speedo uses for an antennae/ receiving unit or whatever it is called....
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Gauge has power, ground, lighting wire to dimmer/dash lights. It has a small antenna that is smaller than an xm antenna that can mount in a corner of your front or rear dash. The cable for the antenna/receiver is 15 foot.
 
younggun2.0 said:
do they make a steering wheel adapter hub to fit the 67 column? if so i might have to check into a new steering wheel.
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I Just got off the phone with Lecarra. They make the Hub Adapter for the Billet Specialties Steering Wheel that will work with the 67 Steering Column.

Part# B-29700 price is -- $79.95 it is Polished Billet Aluminum. It takes a week lead time for shipment.
 
Mad Dart said:
I Just got off the phone with Lecarra. They make the Hub Adapter for the Billet Specialties Steering Wheel that will work with the 67 Steering Column.

Part# B-29700 price is -- $79.95 it is Polished Billet Aluminum. It takes a week lead time for shipment.
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i wish you could get the wheel and hub anodized black or gun metal. that would really go with my theme. your doing killer work man. can wait to see it all together.
 
Hows the progress with the engine? Or did I miss that somewhere in all those pages? You get back to the dyno yet and get the new timing setup to work?
 
70DusterDev said:
Hows the progress with the engine? Or did I miss that somewhere in all those pages? You get back to the dyno yet and get the new timing setup to work?
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Yes you missed it. I know this thread is pretty long. Did a crank trigger using a 36:1 wheel and made my own cam trigger using a lean burn dizzy and a NASCAR Reluctor, ground off 7 teeth and mounted a hall sensor to pick up the signal. Then I mounted 8 D585 coils for spark.

I know the engine is healthy and has no leaks of any kind so it's going in the car and then to the Wheel Dyno for tuning. Setting up on an engine dyno takes almost 2 days before you can fire it off with everything I got going on. I can fly in the best tuner in the country that knows Megasquirt in and out for 2 days who can meet me at the wheel dyno and tune it right for less than it cost for the engine dyno's time. Makes more sense and I know it will come off the rollers done right ready to kick some ***! :D
 
Not wanting to be the bearer of bad news but is that rust I see on that valve spring? I have read / seen somewhere that you should only handle springs when wearing cotton gloves to keep the acid from your skin off them. Hope they will be OK.

attachment.php


Why did you need a spacer between the timing gear and the dampener? I like the home made dampener install tool you have.

Those are nice looking roller lifters. I am using MRLs in my stroker.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=245153&d=1309734774
 
airwoofer said:
Not wanting to be the bearer of bad news but is that rust I see on that valve spring? I have read / seen somewhere that you should only handle springs when wearing cotton gloves to keep the acid from your skin off them. Hope they will be OK.

attachment.php


Why did you need a spacer between the timing gear and the dampener? I like the home made dampener install tool you have.

Those are nice looking roller lifters. I am using MRLs in my stroker.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=245153&d=1309734774
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Spacer is so the balancer clears the Timing Cover.

Rust? no those springs are Brand New from Comp, assembled by IMM. I poured oil over the top of everything after I installed the rocker gear, the picture is a day or so later. I think MRL had Comp make him a set of Lifters just like the ones in my engine that Brian at IMM Sold me. Brian has had those lifters for quite some time before any of the other players.
 
Mad Dart said:
Yes you missed it. I know this thread is pretty long. Did a crank trigger using a 36:1 wheel and made my own cam trigger using a lean burn dizzy and a NASCAR Reluctor, ground off 7 teeth and mounted a hall sensor to pick up the signal. Then I mounted 8 D585 coils for spark.

I know the engine is healthy and has no leaks of any kind so it's going in the car and then to the Wheel Dyno for tuning. Setting up on an engine dyno takes almost 2 days before you can fire it off with everything I got going on. I can fly in the best tuner in the country that knows Megasquirt in and out for 2 days who can meet me at the wheel dyno and tune it right for less than it cost for the engine dyno's time. Makes more sense and I know it will come off the rollers done right ready to kick some ***! :D
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Ah so I did catch part of that! I just didnt know if you had gotten it running in the car yet with the new setup and if it all worked okay. I have built my own FI from old chevy tbi trucks in wheeling rigs on amc motors so I know the aggravation/excitement to try it once all the bugs (you hope) are worked out!! So im excited to see it run for good! :blob:
 
The lifters MRL is selling now have a slightly different groove shape on the main body. Otherwise look very similar. What timing gear/chain set is that?

Just saying about what I thought I saw on the valve spring. Might just be the photo. You do not seem to be the kind of guy who cuts corners or does things any way but right.

http://www.compcams.com/Pages/415/truth-about-valve-springs.aspx

So many things on this build that you have already gone through are applicable to my Demon re-build, especially the bars and the front end. My car has the inner fenders cut away and I worry about the frame rails being strong enough to react to engine torque and a possible wheels up excursion.
 
airwoofer said:
The lifters MRL is selling now have a slightly different groove shape on the main body. Otherwise look very similar. What timing gear/chain set is that?

Just saying about what I thought I saw on the valve spring. Might just be the photo. You do not seem to be the kind of guy who cuts corners or does things any way but right.

http://www.compcams.com/Pages/415/truth-about-valve-springs.aspx

So many things on this build that you have already gone through are applicable to my Demon re-build, especially the bars and the front end. My car has the inner fenders cut away and I worry about the frame rails being strong enough to react to engine torque and a possible wheels up excursion.
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I think a member wheelsup73 has the inner fenders removed but I don't know for sure. She does some of the knarliest wheels in the air I have seen in an A Body. Her car holds up fine. She might pop in here and show you?

EDIT::::: Here is a thread on what her car does.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=191653
 
Yeah, I was marveling at that car last summer - shifts while in the air! As light as my front end is and judging from the lack of engine mounts which are replaced with the motor plate mounts (means a healthy big block, the hood scoop was a pro mod type) and nitrous bottle mount, I am surprised there were no 10.5 scrapes on the rear bumper. Must have had wheelie bars back then.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=214911

That Duster is just about the same as what I am working with, even down to the cut away motor mounts that I need to run my SB. Notice that this one also probably does not have the snout bars running back into the interior. I suspect they end at the firewall since I do not see any loop on front. My snout bars will tie to the down bars like yours does and I will also add the extra down bar to the frame connector area like you did. One concern I have is are the frame rails straight now because when I tie the snout bar to the inside, and MAYBE add a Badart radiator support brace, the rails will stay where they are. Did you check yours first or just assume that since the inner fenders were there it was straight? Anyways look at that Duster and see where I am coming from and why I am so interested in your work. I do not have the stuff to take / post pics.

Mine still has steel fenders but otherwise all glass in front and pretty darn light with no engine / tranny / K frame. They cut the inner fenders at the top so much I may add an angle up there to better support the fenders. Balance point is about 8" behind the rear door jam with all the front stuff gone and the rear all assembled except for battery(s).

I have a very similar back half with ladder bars / coil overs except a back braced 8 3/4 as that Duster. What went into your decision of 4 point vs ladder bars which per the thread you were considering? Maybe we should start a ladder bar vs 4 link thread instead of jacking yours.
 
airwoofer said:
Yeah, I was marveling at that car last summer - shifts while in the air! As light as my front end is and judging from the lack of engine mounts which are replaced with the motor plate mounts (means a healthy big block, the hood scoop was a pro mod type) and nitrous bottle mount, I am surprised there were no 10.5 scrapes on the rear bumper. Must have had wheelie bars back then.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=214911

That Duster is just about the same as what I am working with, even down to the cut away motor mounts that I need to run my SB. Notice that this one also probably does not have the snout bars running back into the interior. I suspect they end at the firewall since I do not see any loop on front. My snout bars will tie to the down bars like yours does and I will also add the extra down bar to the frame connector area like you did. One concern I have is are the frame rails straight now because when I tie the snout bar to the inside, and MAYBE add a Badart radiator support brace, the rails will stay where they are. Did you check yours first or just assume that since the inner fenders were there it was straight? Anyways look at that Duster and see where I am coming from and why I am so interested in your work. I do not have the stuff to take / post pics.

Mine still has steel fenders but otherwise all glass in front and pretty darn light with no engine / tranny / K frame. They cut the inner fenders at the top so much I may add an angle up there to better support the fenders. Balance point is about 8" behind the rear door jam with all the front stuff gone and the rear all assembled except for battery(s).

I have a very similar back half with ladder bars / coil overs except a back braced 8 3/4 as that Duster. What went into your decision of 4 point vs ladder bars which per the thread you were considering? Maybe we should start a ladder bar vs 4 link thread instead of jacking yours.
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Your not jacking the thread, I don't care about that stuff.

My car was straight as far as I know. All the body lines were perfect before I started any work on it, the doors still shut great too, click ,click when you shut the door real slow!! I did Level the car out before I started any cutting & Welding on it. I tell you what, with the Radiator support, cage in the car, frame connectors and torque boxes, it is STIFF!! I had it tettereing on 1 jack stand the other day, scared the **** out of me with a jack under the housing. You can pull one of the jack stands and the car will easily sit there on 3 of jacks no problem.

As far as a Ladder bar...... I guess I could have went either way. I do know a Ladder bar is a WAY easier install than what I did. My car will mostly be a street car, I am going to drive the wheels off of it when it gets going. If I can drive it to the track and bust out a low 9 sec quarter or better and drive it home that would be pretty cool. No trailer for me!! haaa :D

I know if it was my car with any of the inner fender gone, I would try to tie the cage into the roll bar inside the car and add a plate on the firewall also where it passes through.
 
<I would try to tie the cage into the roll bar inside the car and add a plate on the firewall also where it passes through.>

That is the plan. Still chewing on the Badart rad support too. May not do that now though as this may be the last outdoor painting weekend this winter unless algore is really right and I want to start putting my car back together for next season.

I was considering buying forced 340's (Tim's) Dart as it is already running but he says that even with the 315s his car gets wicked loose when he punches it. Tim doesn't even have a cage so really all I could do with it, even at our pretty loosely regulated 1/8 strip, is TnT and King of the Street.

I like to wonder how much darker the burnouts on my street would be with that thing vs the ones I did with the 416 in the fish with 275 DRs. Mine are still the darkest after over 6 months and a bunch of locals like to use the straight country road as "burnout boulevard".

You must be salivating at the idea of the forest service flying borade bombers out from Hemet over your street every time you get out and light up those DRs. That thing is gonna make you a favorite customer at the tire shop and I bet your daughter gets popular with the car guys in HS who really only want a ride in the car. LOL, drop her off at school one day...

You better think about busting the 9's though as they get goofy about things after that and start requiring medicals, licenses, jackets/pants, nets, notes from home.

Oh BTW, word of warning: DRs leave a very distinct burnout mark and any cop smart enough to carry a tape measure could probably write "wreckless driving" tickets just by comparing the burnout tracks to the custom rear end and tires you have. I will use different tires on back when my fish gets done. Wreckless tickets have a lot of points and are almost as bad as a DUI as far as the popo is concerned.
 
Yeah I know about the tickets. I got a pretty good one right before I sold my 70 swinger with the 410,4spd in it. 72MPH in a 40 and I short shifted into 3rd gear. He got me with the radar at least 1000 ft away as I was slowing down. Just trying to clear it out, you know!! Motorcycle cop, I told him it was gunna die across the intersection so I had to clear the carb out, he didn't believe me so after he wrote the ticket and was packing up his bike to leave. I threw the ticket in the glove box and tried to start the car. It was Super Rich and would not start, flooded. So I hold my foot to the floor, it starts and I held my foot to the floor bouncing it of the Revv limiter @ 7200RPM, spitting RAW Fuel all over the Cop, I swear there was a HUGE cloud of fuel all around him. I see him in my rear view mirror looking at me shaking his head. I finished clearing it out, drove it home, re jetted it and back off to have some fun! I haven't had a moving violation in 15 years prior to this ticket.

Forced340's car is one of the cleanest I have seen. For sure it needs a cage.

As far as Hemet goes, they still street race out there on a pretty consistent basis.
 
It's so good to see you back! I have never seen that sort of structure on an anti roll bar before. And to be clear,we are talking roll cage,or sway bar? Lol,forgive me...confusion is what I do best some days...:violent1:
 
needsaresto said:
It's so good to see you back! I have never seen that sort of structure on an anti roll bar before. And to be clear,we are talking roll cage,or sway bar? Lol,forgive me...confusion is what I do best some days...:violent1:
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Sway or Anti "Body Roll" Bar. Competition Engineering makes this one Part #2027. They say its their "best" one.

View attachment phpBuKAZFPM.jpg
 
Damn Louis! You been practicing with your TIG skills eh?? Looks good! You will love the Anti-rollbar for sure!! She will launch hard and straight!!! Will be nice while burning curves too!
 
CUUDAK said:
Damn Louis! You been practicing with your TIG skills eh?? Looks good! You will love the Anti-rollbar for sure!! She will launch hard and straight!!! Will be nice while burning curves too!
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To be honest the only Tig Welding I have ever done is on the Ford 9" that I just built and a few small things here and there. As far as Steel, Chromoly, and Stainless goes, I think I have it nailed pretty good. That old school Oxygen/Acetelyne welding from when I was a kid is coming in handy now when hand dipping the rod. Funny how that is.

I did get a chance to mess around with some Aluminum the other day. I was very surprised at how well the welds came out. Seems about the same except Aluminum likes it real hot and you need to watch the pedal. Pre heating with a propane torch is supposed to bring all the impurities to the top so you can clean them off with Acetone and all your tig tips, tungsten and all Aluminum tools need to stay aluminum tools or you will contaminate your welds bad. I will goof around some more with aluminum and post some of my aluminum welds.
 
Thanks for clearing that up Louis! It does look like a pretty nice anti roll bar! Some assembly required,so it must be a generic cut to fit..very nice welds btw! And please keep posting!
 
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