Update on My 64 Dart project

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ahh ok my auto meter gauge rading is off and when I plug the stock one back on, its the same reading. So that means ither I need to re calibrate the Autometer gauge or bend the fuel level sender some
 
ahh ok my auto meter gauge rading is off and when I plug the stock one back on, its the same reading. So that means ither I need to re calibrate the Autometer gauge or bend the fuel level sender some

You mau need a specific sender for that gauge. Depends on the amps the sender puts out
 
Ya Im going to get an OHM gauge and check it out and see whats going on. Because when I bench test the gauge it works fine. I think the sending unit is off.
 
Ya Im going to get an OHM gauge and check it out and see whats going on. Because when I bench test the gauge it works fine. I think the sending unit is off.

Is it a new unit? You may have to bend the float rod a little
 
Ya I replaced the stock one with it. I got it off ebay from a guy who sells them
 
the reason your auto meter gauge isnt correct is,,the ohms,,or the impedenace,,that gauge from auto meter is probably designed for GM impedence the same that you would find in a fuel cell sending unit,,ide call auto meter and ask if they make a mopar impedence matched fuel gauge,,or ask them what resistor to put in line to adapt it to the mopar sending unit,,

you probably cant exchange it from where you purchased it,, but you may be able to send it to auto meter to be converted,,
 
its the gauge for ford/chryslers... but I will call and ask about the resistor thing.
 
O and I was going to try the Autometer fuel level sender, but it has like 5 holes around were the snap ring that holds it in, so unless I can weld those holes up. Im going to try the resistor or bending the arm
 
make sure your ground strap at the tank/sender is making a good conection,,if your gauge is for mopar,you wont need a resistor,,all depends how far off it is as to the bending of the sending rod,,that gets to be a pain in the butt,,call auto meter tech dept see what they say,,make sure its a mopar specific gauge
 
its a chrysler/ford gauge 10-73ohms it has the ground strap and i even used my own ground strap. Right now its actually off by alot. When I fill it up with 91 I will let you know exactly how much it is off by.
 

check and see if the ground to the back of the gauge is working,,and getting a good ground,,ide call auto meter before i remove and bend the tank sending unit arm,, if its that far off it wil be off either at full or empty one wil be off reguardless
 
check and see if the ground to the back of the gauge is working,,and getting a good ground,,ide call auto meter before i remove and bend the tank sending unit arm,, if its that far off it wil be off either at full or empty one wil be off reguardless

I agree, check the ground first
 
Will check, but I think if the Autometer gauge wasnt getting a ground the needle wouldent move
 
Well, I worked on the Dart again this apst weekend. Finally got the headers where I want them as far as fit. I also had to trim some more spline from the axles in that they were still too long and were binding. Not binding now. Mapped out the brake lines, ordered a turn signal cancelling cam and wiring harness so i should be able to finish the steering column and install that. Still waiting to finish and paint the hood and paint the rear wheels. Getting closer. Also sent my mechanical tach drive distributor to the Philbin Group in Portland, OR for a total rebuild. I've seen their work and it's top notch.
 
Hi!!Iwas flipping back in you threads and noticed you are swapping out your axels.Do you have the old ones for sale?If so are they standard A-body BBP?with bearings?Please PM me if there for sale and how much.I,m getting an 8 3/4 rear ready for the 66 Dart Thanks.
 
Hi!!Iwas flipping back in you threads and noticed you are swapping out your axels.Do you have the old ones for sale?If so are they standard A-body BBP?with bearings?Please PM me if there for sale and how much.I,m getting an 8 3/4 rear ready for the 66 Dart Thanks.

Sorry, sold already
 
Thanks for a quick response,I figured I,d give it a shot.I seen it was back in July that you did the swap,but I tried.Thanks anyway.
 
Well, I'm ready to do the exhaust. My plan is to run dumps off the fenderwell headers with caps on the end. Run a connection from the dump on each side into a 2 1/4" Y connection. From there it will run through 2 1/4" pipe over the rear on the driver side into the resonator. I took some measurements and called Accurate ltd and the resonator will fit with the springs that have been inboarded. Only other problem is the exhaust cutout in the rear valance. I'm still debating that one.
 
Well, I hope everyone had a merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Finally fo all the exhaust parts together (holidays kinda held me back). I'll try and get some pics posted. My goal is to mock everything up this weekend and take the cart to the exhaust shop. My only concern is the fitment of the Hipo resonator with the in-boarded springs.
 
Well finished up this past weekend concluding yesterday. got all the stainless brake lines bent (my hands are sore in that stuff is tough to hand bend) Ran them up and had the ends flared. One thing i found is that there is not a lot of room between the headers and the master cyl. I'll have to think that one over but it's looking like I'll be fabing up a heat shield. for those of you contemplating a project like this, well, ran into a glitch with my steering column. Apparently I put the auto shaft back in into the column I restored instead of the manual shaft. OOPPS!!!. Now I can't find my manual shaft (I probably sold it) so I just went ahead and ordered the Flaming River power steering/manual adapter. I'll just have to sell the manual coupler that I have. Pictures to follow this evening.
 
Lets try this again

012009 110.jpg
 
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