What oil has zinc now?

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Do you really need Zinc oil after cam break in?In my Com Cams instructions it said a non zinc oil was ok to use after cam break in,if I remember right.I have always use 10w40 Valvoline in my Old Mopars.This is what I used in my 70 Road Runner.
 
Do you really need Zinc oil after cam break in?In my Com Cams instructions it said a non zinc oil was ok to use after cam break in,if I remember right.I have always use 10w40 Valvoline in my Old Mopars.This is what I used in my 70 Road Runner.
Yes, you need it with any flat tappet cam or you risk early failure.
 
Do you really need Zinc oil after cam break in?In my Com Cams instructions it said a non zinc oil was ok to use after cam break in,if I remember right.I have always use 10w40 Valvoline in my Old Mopars.This is what I used in my 70 Road Runner.

One of the qualities about the ZDDP additive is that it helps the oil to adhere to the moving parts when the engine is NOT running as well since classic cars spend more time in the garage than they do the road, in most cases.

Read the article from www.classiccarmotoroil.com
 
Oops. It looks like Rotella did lose it's zinc. You need a bare minimum of 1100ppm (11%). 12ppm is better.

1,100 / 1,000,000 = .0011 (%)

Where did you learn math? And BTW, 1,100ppm is only slightly less than the 1,200ppm it had in the CI4+ formula. That's a 9% reduction in the ZDDP additives, for those of who may be a little more "math challenged." I would hardly characterize that a losing it's zinc.

I deliberately resisted getting into this thread as long as I could because it's getting tiresome going over this again and again. But the misinformation factor became so great I felt compelled to refute the myth mongers once more. ](*,)
 

In comparison of the two oil additives mentioned.

(1) ZDDP Plus Oil additive $9.99 for 4oz bottle.

Recommended usage: 4oz bottle to every oil change.

(2) Cam-shield 4oz bottle $13.95 for 4oz bottle.

Recommended usage: 1/4oz to every quart of oil under normal engine operation. 1/2oz to every quart of oil under racing conditions or cam break in.

The Cam-shield would be a better choice because it only takes 1.25oz to treat a 5 qt capacity motor under normal enigne operation. One bottle would give you 3.2 oil changes.
 
1,100 / 1,000,000 = .0011 (%)

Where did you learn math? And BTW, 1,100ppm is only slightly less than the 1,200ppm it had in the CI4+ formula. That's a 9% reduction in the ZDDP additives, for those of who may be a little more "math challenged." I would hardly characterize that a losing it's zinc.

I deliberately resisted getting into this thread as long as I could because it's getting tiresome going over this again and again. But the misinformation factor became so great I felt compelled to refute the myth mongers once more. ](*,)
Relax Ace. So I left out the .00, big freaking deal. That is how Rotella's specs were listed in the post by '74 sport that I responded to. There is no "myth mongering" here. By the Rotella specs which were posted, Rotella now has 8.99% ( I assume they mean 899ppm) and that is not enough Zinc. I posted 1,100ppm as the minimum most manufacturers specify, not as the content in Rotella. Apparently you are more reading comprehension challenged than anyone else is math challenged. Maybe you should make sure have at least some clue what you are talking about before putting up such an arrogant, condescending post.
 
Again with the math? 899ppm = 8.99%?

You should quit now before you embarass yourself further.

What manufacturers? I'm gonna need my hip waders if it gets any deeper in here.
 
Again with the math? 899ppm = 8.99%?

You should quit now before you embarass yourself further.

What manufacturers? I'm gonna need my hip waders if it gets any deeper in here.
It was 74 Sports' post quoting Rotella's MSDS that said 8.99%. I was quoting him and said I assumed they meant 899ppm. I don't have any dreadful insecurity problems that make me want to correct every little thing people miss. Pretty much everything I have read about cam manufacturers recommendations says that 1,100 ppm is the minimum you want. If you go throught the old threads on this that is the concentration pretty much everyone agreed on as what they had read too. Maybe you should quit now before everyone realizes what an asshole you are.
Sorry for the language everyone else but I feel it was appropriate for this guy.
 
I used to run kendall 10w40 that was the old blend. I was told to use rotella 15w40 as it still has the zinc? and still reasonable in price. Correct me if im wrong
 
I used to run kendall 10w40 that was the old blend. I was told to use rotella 15w40 as it still has the zinc? and still reasonable in price. Correct me if im wrong

Who knows,

All I care about is that I really, really hope this stuff pisses off Al Gore too.
 
It was 74 Sports' post quoting Rotella's MSDS that said 8.99%. I was quoting him and said....
Right, got it. You like to parrot stuff you hear or read and don't understand. That equates to rumor mongering, when in this case, you mis-translate what the numbers actually mean. Any idea what mixture 3 is? :read2:

Didn't think so. But I won't stoop to your level of name-calling. Just point out the facts so others may decide whether or not they should listen to what you have to say. Sorry that doesn't sit well with you. Maybe you should be more careful about what you post. No skin off my nose. :thebirdm:

Cheers!
 
Right, got it. You like to parrot stuff you hear or read and don't understand. That equates to rumor mongering, when in this case, you mis-translate what the numbers actually mean. Any idea what mixture 3 is? :read2:

Didn't think so. But I won't stoop to your level of name-calling. Just point out the facts so others may decide whether or not they should listen to what you have to say. Sorry that doesn't sit well with you. Maybe you should be more careful about what you post. No skin off my nose. :thebirdm:

Cheers!
Look, someone posted information from the Rotella MSDS that seemed to indicate that they had reduced the Zinc content (which many people here had heard they were going to) and I commented on his post. I didn't run to the top of the nearest mountian and shout that no one should use Rotella, nor did I post that, and it is you who mis-translated what I said. Do you have stock in Shell or something? Why would you call me names? I didn't butt into your conversation and attack you for saying things you didn't say. I realize that you think you are God's all-knowing, all-seeing gift to the rest of us lowly FABO members who know nothing but even if I had said what you thought there are such things as class and tact. You should look those terms up sometime and drop the attack mode garbage.
 
Who knows,

All I care about is that I really, really hope this stuff pisses off Al Gore too.
Me too. I have always wanted to meet him so I can tell him I run leaded racing gas in my street car.
 
Me too. I have always wanted to meet him so I can tell him I run leaded racing gas in my street car.


Just make sure when you do tell him that, make it clear that the lead comes from spend 50 caliber rounds that you shot from your totally legal .50 caliber sniper rifle that his buddy bill Clinton could not ban and you shot at barreles full of stale gasoline while vacationing on a polar ice cap.
That should get him charged up for another staged Nobel peace prize.
 
Hey Ace... quiet down over there. For a fairly infequent poster here you sure feel comfortable chewing-up people. We all have an ignore button. Please don't encourage it's use. We're here to help each other, not belittle. More behavior like what you posted WILL get you suspended. If there's one thing I hate, is a loud-mouth know-it-all.


And as for the great oil debate, I use Joe Gibbs w/ a ZDDP additive. Yeah... almost $60 an oil change. So what.... I'm not about to cut corners at this point. Better safe than sorry.
 
From the Blueprint Engines site, April 2008
High Performance Engine Technical Tips

Get expert advice on your high performance stroker & crate engine applications
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Shell Rotella T on the left and Lucas Oil Break-in Additive #10063 on the right
Updated engine oil requirements
(April 30, 2008)
In recent years, auto manufacturers have switched to roller camshafts for performance and fuel economy reasons. This combined with the EPA requirements for reduced emissions, has led to the reduction of zinc diakyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP). This lower zinc content will not properly lubricate the flat tappet hydraulic lifters we use on the majority of our engines.

Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40 (new API CJ-4) has approximately 1200 ppm zinc (indicative of the amount of ZDDP additive). This is 50% more zinc than current passenger car motor oils (SM, GF-4) which typically contain approximately 800 ppm zinc. Passenger car motor oils had approximately 1200 ppm zinc prior to 2001. In 2001 the zinc was reduced to 1000 ppm and in 2005 reduced again to the current 800 ppm. These are typical zinc levels, API ratings do not stipulate the zinc content, but the oil performance.

Therefore, we are recommending the use of Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40 (new API CJ-4) during the initial start up and during the break in period of your Blueprint engine.

If you wish to use another brand of 15w40 oil, you must use a break-in additive such as Lucas Oil Break-in Additive #10063(which also increases the zinc content). After the critical break in period (normally 3000-4000 miles), synthetic oils such as Royal Purple can be used.
 
plus they are reducing the zinc in rotella, the guy from Joe Gibbs told me
 
Hey Ace... quiet down over there. For a fairly infequent poster here you sure feel comfortable chewing-up people. We all have an ignore button. Please don't encourage it's use. We're here to help each other, not belittle. More behavior like what you posted WILL get you suspended. If there's one thing I hate, is a loud-mouth know-it-all.


And as for the great oil debate, I use Joe Gibbs w/ a ZDDP additive. Yeah... almost $60 an oil change. So what.... I'm not about to cut corners at this point. Better safe than sorry.
Maybe I have been under a rock or something but this thread is the first place I have heard about Gibbs oil. I'll have to check it out.
 
Just make sure when you do tell him that, make it clear that the lead comes from spend 50 caliber rounds that you shot from your totally legal .50 caliber sniper rifle that his buddy bill Clinton could not ban and you shot at barreles full of stale gasoline while vacationing on a polar ice cap.
That should get him charged up for another staged Nobel peace prize.
That is awesome. I couldn't have said it better.
 
Hey Ace... quiet down over there. For a fairly infequent poster here you sure feel comfortable chewing-up people. We all have an ignore button. Please don't encourage it's use. We're here to help each other, not belittle. More behavior like what you posted WILL get you suspended. If there's one thing I hate, is a loud-mouth know-it-all.
Thanks for the support John. God knows I don't know everything and if I get something wrong and someone explains it I appreciate it and am more than happy to admit blowing it but there is no reason for attacks over nothing among fellow MOPAR men.
 
I already have a couple thou on my new Magnum roller cam motor, so this question is late but its for my education.
Is there a consensus in what oil to start with in a fresh rebuilt roller cam motor. Such as, straight weights vs multi viscocity? start with organic and switch to synthetic later? start right off with synthetics? maybe never use synthetics?

He asks humbly.:notworth:
 
amsoil has a special high zinc oil for flat tappet engines. im a dealer if that matters.
 
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