ramcharger
Dismember
AHA! Mine was in a silver bottle and SL rated. Dammit, that cost me alot of money and time.
What oil has zinc now?
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AHA! Mine was in a silver bottle and SL rated. Dammit, that cost me alot of money and time.
Old Geezzer
Well-Known Member
My 360LA has went through two cams all ready . The comp cam that was in the eng, and now a Summit cam kit. Used cam lube and Shell Rotella T 15-40 oil on the Summit. This is the main reason for going to the Magnum engine. And the EFI. 8)
At work the new Cummins / Cat engines use different oil than the older engines thats a nightmare for the lube dept.
At work the new Cummins / Cat engines use different oil than the older engines thats a nightmare for the lube dept.
Backtobasics
Well-Known Member
Why not just add a bottle of the Comp Cams additive to the regular oil?
It is a very high concentrate, and would probably bring the zinc content up to the acceptable level with standard, off the shelf oil?
It is a very high concentrate, and would probably bring the zinc content up to the acceptable level with standard, off the shelf oil?
63dartman
Well-Known Member
Yes, The VR-1 racing oil is tricky. They both say "Racing oil" Only one has the label on front that says "not for street use" From what I've seen most auto stores sell the street version only. You have to get the"real" racing oil from jegs or such.
ramcharger
Dismember
According to the Valvoline website the not street legal stuff is availible from NAPA.
63dartman
Well-Known Member
This is the VR-1 You want
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...Id=761759&itemId=456355&langId=-1&showValue=1
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...Id=761759&itemId=456355&langId=-1&showValue=1
ramcharger
Dismember
Is it only availible in 20w-50?
Thrashard340
Well-Known Member
Got it. Thanks for clarifying Moper.
63dartman
Well-Known Member
No, the have 10/30 and others. I just posted the bottle to clear up the confusion.
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
Dang it! I thought the stuff you buy in the stores was the right stuff. I didn't about the "NOT STREET LEGAL".
I looked on NAPA website and they have it in 3 different weights 50w (VAL 852), 10w30 (VAL 850), and 20w50 (VAL 851). All of these are non-synthetic. They have synthetic as well in different weights.
http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(...voline racing oil&Nao=0&Nty=1&N=0&Ntk=Keyword
Looks like I need to order some zinc somewhere and drop in the motor so I won't be so paranoid until my next oil change.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
so i heard mobil one 15w 50 with the red cap
royal purple XPR
valvoline in the black bottle vr1
and Quaker state Q racing 15w40 i believe are oils that can be run with out an additve because they have 1200 to 1300 levels in them
royal purple XPR
valvoline in the black bottle vr1
and Quaker state Q racing 15w40 i believe are oils that can be run with out an additve because they have 1200 to 1300 levels in them
moper
Well-Known Member
Wait until you smell it....lol.
ramcharger
Dismember
Kinda like diff fluid?
moper
Well-Known Member
Very much so. And it's darker. Kendall used to be darker too. Maybe 'cause it was PA bred oil.
ramcharger
Dismember
Remember the old Kendall racing 20w-50? It was green!
They have come out with a new oil called the Dominator Series Racing Oil. It has the the high zinc package for our older flat tappet motors. I think I'll give it a try when my motors broke in.
Brad Penn oil is the old Kendall formula and green in color. I'm running his 20w-50 in my motor with Comp Cam's additive. According to the shop owner where I buy it only the straight 50w has enough zinc in it not to require the additive. A lot of the dirt track guys around here are using the 50w but I think that's to thick for me on the street.
How much trouble are you guys having finding an additive? I went to Pep Boys,Auto Zone,and O'Reilly's twice. None had anything,and acted like I didn't know what I was talking about. I finally found Comp Cam's stuff on O'Reilly's website,and went back with the part #. They special ordered 2 bottles for me. $13.99 each. Lucas makes one too,but can't find it either. One guy told me no one carries it because it cost too much. I told him I would rather spend a little more on an oil change,than have to tear apart a $5000 motor.
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
I just bought a bottle to make sure I got something in my new motor so I can relax now.:toothy10:
I thought I was OK with the VR-1 Racing oil but found out different.
I wasn't shooting for the best price or anything like that but I got the ZDDPLUS OIL SUPPLEMENT 4oz bottle at YearOne.
ZDDPLUS 9.90
Shipping 9.21
Total 19.11
moper
Well-Known Member
73 red, I think the same way. You can pay $14, or $20 with sipping, and be protected, or you can add $2-3/qt for decent oil for every oil change, or $600-1000 for a roller cam setup initially, but one way or another, you're paying.
I've spent quite a bit putting this car together,and I'm not done yet. Cutting corners on something as simple as an oil change,does'nt even make sense. I think the big problem is,many people don't know. Had it not been for this forum,I would be one of them. I really appreciate this site,and all the great knowledge avaliable here.
This is not zinc-related but it is oil-related. I have been using Amsoil's 20W-50 racing oil in my car for some time, partly because of the high levels of zinc and phosphorus. The last time I changed the oil in my wife's Neon SXT I decided to try their 5W-30 which has a recommended change interval of 25,000 miles. Yes, TWENTY FIVE THOUSAND MILES!!!. I thought that sounded a little optomistic so I decided to leave it in until it started to show signs of age and contamination and figured I would check it every 1,000 miles starting at 3,000. I just did the 14,000 mile check and this stuff still looks and feels like it did the day I put it in. Amazing. Maybe they weren't exaggerating after all. Kind of offsets the high price I paid for the stuff.
I haven't ever used additive. I figure that as long as there are still oils around that contain sufficient levels I would use them since you never know how long it will take an additive to effectively mix into the oil, or if it will ever completely mix in for that matter. Maybe I am paranoid but why take chances.
This is a great site full of guys that know their poop. If you have a question, someone here will know the answer, or at least know where you can find the answer.
superdart
Shade Tree Tinker Gnome.....
Hey Shelby...to give you an idea, I have a customer who has 220,000 miles on his 2004 S-15 Sonoma 4 banger. Ever since it had 10,000 miles on the odometer he has run Amsoil, and he only changes it every 20-25K, depending when he has time. He also uses the dual filter BMK kit, and loves it.
I run it in my Dakota 4.7 with a bypass kit and change it every 20,000 and it doesn't use a single drop.
I run it in my Dakota 4.7 with a bypass kit and change it every 20,000 and it doesn't use a single drop.
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